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Results for Côtes de Genève

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Côtes de Genève

Parallel-striped decoration on bridges and rotors; the Swiss (or Glashütte) finishing marker.

Hands-On: Urwerk x De Bethune Moon Satellite for Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
De Bethune Moon Satellite Nov 1, 2019

Hands-On: Urwerk x De Bethune Moon Satellite for Only Watch 2019

The collaboration between Urwerk and De Bethune for the upcoming Only Watch is pretty straightforward: an Urwerk wandering hours time display module mounted on a De Bethune base movement, and housed in a De Bethune case. But it works, and the Moon Satellite is one of the coolest watches of the charity auction. Conceptually the Moon Satellite is similar to the Arpal One made for the last Only Watch. Long and sleek, the Arpal One was a collaboration between Urwerk and Laurent Ferrier that looked good, but with an enormous case – it was 60.8m long – that was much too large. The Moon Satellite, on the other hand, is just right. That’s because the case is derived from De Bethune DB28, which is a large watch but one with a smallish footprint and sprung, pivoted lugs that allow it to hug the wrist. The Moon Satellite is slightly larger than a DB28, but almost the same on the wrist. Entirely in mirror polished titanium, the case looks like a helmet for a warrior robot. Its shape is asymmetric – angular on the lower half and rounded at the top – in order to accommodate the time display. It’s reminiscent of a helmet, but instantly recognisable as coming from Urwerk, having the U-shaped crystal first found on the Urwerk UR-103 and now on the UR-105. Coincidentally, both Urwerk and De Bethune position the crowns on most of their watches at 12 o’clock, and so there it is. Though it has a similar shape to the standard Urwerk crown, the Moon Satellite crown is flat, so tha...

Hands-On: De Bethune DB28 Yellow Tones SJX Watches
De Bethune DB28 Yellow Tones Even Oct 29, 2019

Hands-On: De Bethune DB28 Yellow Tones

Even amongst avant-garde watchmakers, De Bethune stands out for its substance – aesthetic and material innovation matched by technical ingenuity. At its core, the brand has reimagined the most fundamental aspects of mechanical timekeeping, from the barrel to the hairspring, while pushing the boundaries of traditional complications, be it the moon phase, tourbillon or chronograph. But arguably its most distinctive innovation is an aesthetic one, which has come to define the brand no less – heat-blued titanium. The brand has used the alloy for more than 15 years across various parts of the watch, even making almost a whole watch out of it. But now De Bethune has a twist on the theme, resulting in the DB28 Yellow Tones in brilliant golden titanium. Fiery yellow Though the colour of the new DB28 is striking, it is by no means loud, as the amber shade of yellow isn’t the same as yellow gold and doesn’t pass off as such. In fact, it looks more like fresh brass than gold. The colour was achieved through thermal oxidisation of the surface, essentially the same process as that used for blued titanium (and also the same for blued steel). The yellow surface, just like the blue, is the result of an oxide that forms on the surface of titanium when it is heated to a certain temperature. But amber yellow tone in this case was created by heating it at a lower temperature than used for blued titanium. Titanium undergoes different stages of oxidation when heated, and yellow is o...

Suit up with Omega De Ville Trésor Time+Tide
Omega De Ville Trésor Omega’s Oct 25, 2019

Suit up with Omega De Ville Trésor

Omega’s recently updated line of De Ville Trésor presents as a compelling proposition for anyone looking for a beautifully made, elegant dress watch. And, for the first time in the De Ville Trésor family, there’s now the option of steel-cased models, which can be had in a few different iterations. For a start, there’s this … ContinuedThe post Suit up with Omega De Ville Trésor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 in steel  Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache Sep 5, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 in steel 

Over the years I’ve seen a lot of new chronographs. Some are impressive, and many are ordinary. But few are as hands-down gorgeous as the Vacheron Constantin Cornes de Vache that I first saw at Watches and Wonders in 2015.  With its classical proportions and comely, cow-horn-shaped lugs it was a love-at-first sight affair. However, the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 in steel  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Blue “The Hour Glass” SJX Watches
De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Blue Jul 24, 2019

Hands-On: De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Blue “The Hour Glass”

De Bethune is the latest amongst a number of watchmakers to take the covers off a commemorative edition to mark the 40th anniversary of Singapore watch retail powerhouse The Hour Glass. For the occasion, De Bethune has put together a variant of its signature DB28 with sprung lugs that’s entirely clad in brilliant, blued titanium. First unveiled in polished titanium in 2018, the Steel Wheels is essentially a DB28 wearing a little less. A partially open-worked dial – which is actually the delta-shaped barrel bridge – reveals its pair of skeletonised barrels and gears. While the original Steel Wheels captures the essence of De Bethune, combining its trademark design with the brand’s fundamental technical innovations, it was lacking a generous dose of blued titanium, a gorgeous, heat-treated alloy that is synonymous with the brand. Colour consistency That has now been rectified with the DB28 Steel Wheels Blue, arguably the purest – and bluest – distillation of the brand’s core values and technical achievements. It features an intense, mirror-polished, blued titanium case and dial that form a striking contrast against the exposed inner mechanics. Though blued titanium is also used by other brands today, De Bethune was amongst the first to mirror-polish its titanium cases and more crucially, started using heat treatment to blue titanium way back in 2006. An example of an early De Bethune using blued titanium, a DB25L from 2010 with a blued dial...

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms ‘Nageurs de Combat’  Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms ‘Nageurs de May 17, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms ‘Nageurs de Combat’ 

Like it or not, the origin story of Blancpain’s famous diver is inseparable from that of naval warfare. The development of the original watch was driven by two men, Captain Robert Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud, who were in charge of a newly formed French unit, the Combat Swimmers - or Nageurs de Combat. They … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms ‘Nageurs de Combat’  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier’s Santos de Cartier is the perfect dress watch for 2019 Time+Tide
Cartier s Santos de Cartier May 7, 2019

Cartier’s Santos de Cartier is the perfect dress watch for 2019

Editor’s note: The Santos de Cartier is the perfect dress watch for modern times. Adaptable, versatile and restrained - but with a clear personality. It’s also based on a watch that’s more than 100 years old. Which really is a testament to good design. Long live the Santos!  Few watches can rival Cartier’s Santos in terms … ContinuedThe post Cartier’s Santos de Cartier is the perfect dress watch for 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Keeping illustrious company with the Breguet Reine de Naples 8918 Time+Tide
Breguet Reine de Naples 8918 Feb 26, 2018

HANDS-ON: Keeping illustrious company with the Breguet Reine de Naples 8918

First shown at Baselworld 2017, the stunner that is the Breguet Reine de Naples 8918 in rose gold is my pick of Breguet’s women’s offerings (in Australia) at the moment. Breguet is all proportion, horological order and watchmaking museum elegance. But sprinkle that heritage with 1.46 carats worth of white diamonds and the ghosts of French royalty, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Keeping illustrious company with the Breguet Reine de Naples 8918 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Day & Night Watch Time+Tide
Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Nov 19, 2017

INTRODUCING: The Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Day & Night Watch

Cartier may be better known for simple timekeeping classics like the Tank or the Santos. But it’s no secret that the French maison also hosts a history full of complicated – and equally as iconic – designs. In fact, even before the Tank or the Santos were the style icons they are today, Cartier were … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Day & Night Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.