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Results for Guilloché

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Ming x J.N. Shapiro 37.06 lightning: traditional guilloché gets a contemporary jolt

Two of indie watchmaking's sharpest voices combine heat-coloured titanium and hand-engraved guilloché into something that feels genuinely new
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Guilloché

Engine-turned geometric dial patterns; Breguet since 1786.
Biver Debuts a Most Sophisticated Micro-Rotor Calibre SJX Watches
Sep 6, 2024

Biver Debuts a Most Sophisticated Micro-Rotor Calibre

Founded by the namesake father and son duo, Biver has just debuted its second model, the Biver Automatique. Though a simple a time-only watch with central seconds, in contrast to the preceding Carillon Tourbillon, the Automatique is equipped with an elaborately executed movement that’s arguably the most impressive recent automatic. Besides decorative touches like guilloche on the bridges, the JCB-003 also features details like a grande sonnerie-style winding click. The calibre is paired with a comparably elaborately constructed dial with solid gold appliqués that’s available in a variety of materials, including mineral stone like Pietersite. The JCB-003 Initial thoughts The Automatique is clearly meant to showcase the brand’s ability to create a highly finished and refined time-only watch that can compete with more established producers, both in terms of the movement as well as habillage (namely the dial and case). The highlight of the Automatique is the JCB-003 movement. Developed in partnership with movement specialist Dubois Depraz, the JCB-003 is quite possibly the most refined micro rotor movement on the market today. Though it is functionally simple, the movement boasts decorative and technical details along with a high level of finishing. The over-engineered caliber is meant to serve as a base for future complications, which makes sense considering the high cost involved in constructing such a movement. Amongst the calibre’s notable details is the grande so...

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Monet’s Venice in Miniature Enamel by Jaeger-LeCoultre SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Ahead Sep 1, 2024

Monet’s Venice in Miniature Enamel by Jaeger-LeCoultre

Ahead of this month’s Homo Faber Biennial exhibition in Venice, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Monet,” a collection of three watches, limited to 10 pieces each, adorned with miniature enamel reproductions of Claude Monet’s iconic Venice series of paintings. Each enamel painting is composed of 14 layers of enamel, including seven layers of translucent fondant glaze, each requiring its own firing at up to 800 degrees celsius. Initial thoughts Painted enamel case backs are nothing new for the Reverso, a watch that, given its hinged case, is uniquely suited to such decoration. That said, they are a joy to behold due to the skill of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s in-house enamel artists. In this case, I also happen to personally appreciate the chosen subject matter; I find Monet’s Venice series deeply moving. While the case backs are the star attraction, the dials are decorated with hand guilloche, with a different pattern and colour for each piece. The ‘Grand Canal,’ for example, is paired with a guilloche pattern inspired by the ripples of the canal as depicted by Monet, and finished in translucent green enamel. ‘The Doges’ Palace’ features a modified basket weave pattern, while the ‘San Giorgio Maggiore’ features a herringbone pattern. Priced at €100,000, the Reverso Tribute Monet for collectors who value the rarity of this type of hand craftsmanship and artisanship. Like other forms of art, there’s an element of patronage that goes...

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Auction: F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Prototype at Phillips SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Aug 27, 2024

Auction: F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Prototype at Phillips

The second wristwatch Francois-Paul Journe ever made and the counterpart to the similar example in the brand’s own museum, the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité “15/93” was made by Mr Journe in 1993, by hand naturally. It will be offered by Phillips at its 1990s thematic sale in November (that includes the original Rolex Daytona “Rainbow”), accompanied by associated documents. One of three examples his tourbillon prototype, the watch has all of the telltale signs of a hand-made watch. It also serves as the design template that would later shape the signature F.P. Journe Tourbillon. One of the readily apparent details is the fact that the dial is actually the underside of the base plate. The actual dial, namely the guilloche register at three o’clock, is actually secured by screws on the base plate. With an estimate of over CHF2 million, the 1993 F.P. Journe tourbillon be sold at Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999 that takes place on November 8, 2024 in Geneva at the Hotel President.  

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Omega’s CK 859 in Bronze Gold for the Paris 2024 Olympics SJX Watches
Omega s CK 859 Jul 25, 2024

Omega’s CK 859 in Bronze Gold for the Paris 2024 Olympics

A timepiece that pays tribute to the medals of the Olympic Games, the Omega Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition is a riff on the vintage-inspired CK 859. It retains the same dimensions and design, but manages to incorporate all three medal materials – gold, silver, and bronze. The case is a bronze-gold alloy, while the dial is sterling silver with Clous de Paris guilloche. Initial thoughts Among the countless Olympic-themed watches – Omega launched its first 2024 Olympics watch over a year ago – the Bronze Gold Edition stands out for its unique use of materials. It’s a thoughtfully designed watch that celebrates Omega’s status as the timekeeper of Paris 2024. With no Olympics branding or emblems on the front, it’s not obviously an Olympics watch, but smartly captures the Olympic ideal by utilising the three alloys in the case and dial. At the same time, the Bronze Gold Edition is more visually interesting than the CK 859 that had a simple grained dial that was arguably too plain for the relatively wide dial. Priced at US$12,000, the Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition is a good value proposition. Though not novel, the vintage-inspired design is appealing and made more interesting with the guilloche silver dial. And as Olympics editions go, this one is subtle in terms of design yet entirely apt in terms of concept. A special gold alloy The model gets its name from Omega’s proprietary Bronze Gold, an alloy launched in 2022 with the Seamaster 300 that is actually low-cara...

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Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee SJX Watches
Casio n well.  Unusually it Jul 23, 2024

Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee

While Laurent Ferrier originally made its name with timepieces that paid homage to traditional watchmaking, the brand has recently evolved towards to a more contemporary style, especially with its Sport collection that marries solid, classical mechanics with sporty case designs. The latest addition to the line is the Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition, a limited edition in rose gold and green guilloche that celebrates the 70th anniversary of Singapore-based retailer Sincere Fine Watches. Initial Thoughts The Sincere edition is essentially a Grand Sport Tourbillon dressed in a warm and appealing palette. The green dial complements the 5N rose gold case, a rich combination that conveys a sense of old-school luxury and refinement, which suits the commemorative occasion well.  Unusually, it is presented on a strap, instead of a bracelet that has been the norm for most of Laurent Ferrier’s sports watches to date. The strap makes the watch more wearable – a bracelet would mean a lot of gold – and also slightly more accessible in terms of price. In typical Laurent Ferrier style, the quality of execution is high. The dial is made by Voutilainen’s Comblemine while the movement is decorated to an impressive level (though the bridges have a simpler linear brushed finish instead of the more traditional striping). Intrinsically, the Sincere edition is an appealing iteration, but the Laurent Ferrier Sport line in general feels ambiguous as the design not e...

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Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda PF Automatic 36 mm for Ladies SJX Watches
Jul 12, 2024

Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda PF Automatic 36 mm for Ladies

Having just launched the Sunlit Ivory edition for its Singapore retailer, Parmigiani now unveils the Tonda PF Automatic 36 mm for ladies. Though it retains the same dimensions and details, including the hand-guilloché dial, the new Tonda PF is available with a variety of diamond settings. Three versions are being launched, including a top-of-the-line model with lines of diamonds along the entire circumference of the watch and bracelet. The entry-level model, on the other hand, is two-tone rose gold and steel with diamond indices. The two-tone Tonda PF Automatic 36mm on the wrist Initial thoughts Although the Tonda PF 36 mm is one of many integrated-bracelet sports watch, it has a bit more of dress watch element to its design, especially in this 36 mm size. It’s more compact without sacrificing the sporty aspect of the model, making it quite versatile – the fact that it’s a convincing ladies’ sports watch in this new livery confirms that. Priced from CHF31,900 to CHF78,900 depending on the version, the new Tonda PF 36 mm is similarly to the competition. With integrated-bracelet sports watches being premium priced in general – reflecting an earlier fad – Tonda PF is a value proposition compared to alternatives when considering fit, finish, and materials. That said, I wish it was priced more competitively considering that Parmigiani is a newish brand without a historical lineage of sports watches that the “Holy Trinity” brands possess. A familiar design The t...

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Hands On: Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad Jul 1, 2024

Hands On: Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad

For Ulysse Nardin, Watches & Wonders 2024 was all about the Freak S Nomad, which made its debut in a booth that featured a massive replica of the watch’s movement. While the Nomad is essentially just a new livery for an existing model, the aesthetic changes, which include a rotating guilloche dial, give the watch a sportier feel that suits the design. The Nomad is the second model in the Freak S collection after the original of 2022, and the latest in a long line of innovative watches that dates back to 2001. Interestingly, the Nomad is the first Freak to feature artisanal decoration, in the form of the guilloche dial, as compared to past models that have been more about technology than technique. Initial thoughts Mechanical watchmaking technology is fundamentally archaic, largely unchanged for more than a century. As a result, futuristically styled watches can easily come across as superficial. So it’s refreshing to consider the Nomad, which backs up its sci-fi styling with 21st-century materials and truly unique movement architecture that manages to be highly differentiated even a quarter-century after its launch. On paper, the Nomad is a large watch at 45 mm in diameter and 17 mm thick. Both of these numbers surprised me because after putting it on my wrist, it looks and feels smaller than it is. This is due, in part, to the lightweight titanium case, the muted colour palette, and the visual depth of the dial. Furthermore, the eye is naturally drawn to the central ...

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Introducing: The Chronoswiss Delphis Dracula, Horizon, And Dune Fratello
Chronoswiss Jun 28, 2024

Introducing: The Chronoswiss Delphis Dracula, Horizon, And Dune

Chronoswiss is on a mission to revamp its lineup. Today’s Delphis watch trio marks the third new release in nearly four months. These three watches offer enameled and guilloché dials in cases made from gold or titanium. The brand also makes good use of its third in-house-designed movement, the C.6004. Today’s Chronoswiss Delphis models are […] Visit Introducing: The Chronoswiss Delphis Dracula, Horizon, And Dune to read the full article.

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Micro-Brand Digest: Exciting New Sports Watches, a Canadian Brand Inspired by Architecture, and a Former Modder Hits Kickstarter Worn & Wound
Jun 28, 2024

Micro-Brand Digest: Exciting New Sports Watches, a Canadian Brand Inspired by Architecture, and a Former Modder Hits Kickstarter

Welcome to the Worn & Wound Micro-Brand Digest, a semi-monthly roundup of all the new micro-brand news we’re following, from concepts that show promise, to Kickstarter launches to restocks, and everything in between. Small independents, and affordable micro-brands spurred the creation of Worn & Wound over 10 years ago, and they still drive our enthusiasm in a big way. Here’s what’s caught our eye this month. If you’ve come across a project you think qualifies, hit us up at info@wornandwound.com for inclusion. Monarte Watches Monarte Watches founder Domen faced a dilemma. He wanted a durable dive watch that also had a dressy look so he could wear it to work or for a night out, not just for sports and weekends. After conducting his research, he discovered that the only “hybrid” watches that truly met the requirements were extremely expensive. As a result, he reached out to the online watch community to gather their input and preferences. From this collective effort, he believes he has devised a solution, the Monarte Squid, a highly versatile and capable dive watch adorned with numerous little details that enthusiasts adore. Let us get the elephant in the room out of the way, shall we? Only the original guilloché dial was crafted by hand-operated lathe, and all subsequent dials were CNC machined to replicate it as closely as possible. This cost-saving manufacturing process in no way diminishes their ornateness or splendor. You would be hard-pressed to find more i...

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Breguet Introduces the Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge” 5345 in Rose Gold SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Jun 27, 2024

Breguet Introduces the Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge” 5345 in Rose Gold

Abraham-Louis Breguet was granted a patent for the tourbillon on June 16, 1801. On the birthday of his celebrated invention, Breguet launches the facelifted, rose gold iteration of the Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge” 5345. The brand’s most formidable tourbillon, the Double Tourbillon is a remarkable timepiece that blends forward-thinking mechanics with traditional craftsmanship, all presented in a striking, oversized case. Initial thoughts  While the newest iteration of the Double Tourbillon collection is not actually new (the original version was launched four years ago), the complication never ceases to amaze. The watch is an impressive demonstration of artisanal skill, with open worked movement revealing a plethora of decorated surfaces, each showcasing a different finishing technique.  The three-dimensional calibre is built upon an 18k rose gold main plate that’s been engine turned with a new wave guilloche developed by Breguet. And the reverse of the watch reveals the bridges of the movement that are entirely hand engraved with a detailed scene of 19th century Paris. Beyond the artisanal finishes, the movement is a highly technical affair. It features no dial, with the movement forming the face. Not only does it include two tourbillon regulators, each with its own going train and barrel, but half of the movement itself is geared to rotate once every 12 hours. The watch is large for the classic Breguet style, but the chunky case is i...

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Parmigiani Debuts the Tonda PF Automatic 36 mm Sunlit Ivory SHH Edition SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier has just launched Jun 19, 2024

Parmigiani Debuts the Tonda PF Automatic 36 mm Sunlit Ivory SHH Edition

Parmigiani Fleurier has just launched the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm ‘Sunlit Ivory’ SHH Edition, a limited edition for Singapore retailer Sincere Fine Watches. More compact than the rest of the collection that ranges from 40 mm to 42 mm, its svelte dimensions are an answer to collectors’ calls for smaller watches, which is a positive development from both an ergonomic and aesthetic standpoint. Limited to 50 pieces, the watch will be available exclusively at Sincere Fine Watches and SHH boutiques across Southeast Asia. Initial thoughts Let’s get this out of the way: this is an integrated-bracelet luxury sport watch. But the Tonda PF, and this SHH edition specifically, is a thoughtfully conceived watch that deserves a second look despite the numerous offerings in this segment. Its appeal primarily comes down to the size and execution, which differentiates this from its peers. The sizing, in particular, is just about perfect. While 36 mm may sound small, the visual size is enlarged by the large dial opening, narrow bezel, and the integrated bracelet, giving it presence without bulk. Furthermore, the 8.6 mm case is thin enough to slip under a shirt cuff, but substantial enough to not feel dainty. There are also a number of well-considered details, such as the guilloché dial, platinum bezel, and no-date format, which plant the Tonda PF Sunlit Ivory firmly on the dressy end of the luxury sport watch spectrum. But the Tonda PF is still sporty – featuring a 4 Hz movement, ...

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Hands On: Louis Vuitton Escale Métiers d’Art “Cabinet Of Wonders” SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Escale Métiers d’Art “Cabinet Jun 17, 2024

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Escale Métiers d’Art “Cabinet Of Wonders”

The recent debut of the Escale Time-Only was actually the second instalment of the design’s revival. Earlier this year, Louis Vuitton presented the Escale Métiers d’Art “Cabinet Of Wonders”, also time-only but with exceptionally elaborate dials decorated in a variety of artisanal crafts – all executed in-house at La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the brand’s Geneva manufacture. The “cabinet” is a trio of watches with dials featuring Asian motifs inspired by a collection of tsuba, or Japanese sword guards, owned by Gaston-Louis Vuitton, the grandson of Louis Vuitton. Ranging from enamelling to marquetry to hammering, the dial decoration is intricate and three-dimensional. From left: Koi’s Garden, Dragon’s Cloud, and Snake’s Jungle Initial thoughts Like the Voyager Flying Tourbillon Plique-à-Jour, the Cabinet of Wonders is a tangible realisation of LFT’s swift buildup of an in-house métiers d’art workshop that encompasses enamelling, engraving, and guilloche. The métiers d’art workshop is just one facet of Louis Vuitton’s ambitious, wide-ranging development of its watchmaking division, a project that is still a work in progress but advancing at a pace rapid enough that it will go far quickly. The dials are lavish, complex, and finely executed. Although they are each decorated with a variety of techniques, the different textures, colours, and styles complement each other perfectly. The quality of the work is comparable to that of Van Cleef & Arpe...

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RGM Unveils the Model 25 “Birds of America (Glossy Ibis)” SJX Watches
RGM Jun 11, 2024

RGM Unveils the Model 25 “Birds of America (Glossy Ibis)”

RGM Watch Co. recently bestowed an artisanal touch on its time-only Model 25 with the “Birds of America (Glossy Ibis)” with a mother-of-pearl dial featuring a miniature painting that reproduces a drawing from John James Audubon’s famous book of the same name. Notably, the Birds of America is also equipped with an ETA calibre upgraded by RGM to have a power reserve that’s 30% longer. Initial thoughts RGM was historically a guilloche specialist – notably the brand does traditional engine turning in house – so the Birds of America is a logical diversification that continues the brand’s speciality. Though the artisan responsible for the miniature painting is unnamed, the dial is impressively rendered with a skilful depiction of the bird. The details of the ibis are practically as vivid as in Audubon’s illustration. Interestingly, the Birds of America is not merely a stylistic exercise. A significant feature is the upgraded ETA 2892 inside that has a 53-56 hour power reserve,  a significant enhancement over the standard 44 hours, which was achieved with in-house upgrades according to RGM.  This release is priced at U$17,900, and comparable commissions depicting others birds from Audubon’s book will cost similar. It’s more affordable than comparable watches from established Swiss brands, making it a relatively good value proposition. After Audubon The latest release is based on a plate depicting the glossy ibis in The Birds of America, the landmark work by...

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Pastel Dials for the Parmigiani Tonda PF Sport Chronograph SJX Watches
Jun 10, 2024

Pastel Dials for the Parmigiani Tonda PF Sport Chronograph

After unveiling the Tonda PF “No Date” earlier this year, Parmigiani continues to expand its line of sports watches, now with the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph in pastel shades of grey as well a “Milano Blue”, while retaining the clou triangulaire guilloché. Milano Blue (left), Arctic Grey (middle), and London Grey (right) Initial thoughts  The Tonda PF Sport is a more elegant alternative to conventional sports chronographs. The guilloché dial is decorative but sporty with “panda” registers, while the case feels relatively slim. And the new dial colours add to the appeal, both by offering more variety and a less traditional palette. The changes are only cosmetic, with the dial, case, and PF070 movement remaining the same. Consequently, the price remains rightly unchanged at CHF29,700 – a fair value proposition especially considering the specs and construction of the PF070. New colourways The latest models are fundamentally new variants of the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph released last year. They retain the same clean styling, with silvered dials and contrasting registers, a look historically associated with motor racing-inspired chronographs. The dial includes the customary applied “PF” emblem at 12 and a date window between four and five. Although it contrasts against the dial, the date display is relatively discreet and coherent design-wise. The date numerals sits vertical in a square window, presumably to evoke a dashboard instrument panel. The dial is d...

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Breguet Connects the Dots between Art and Time at Frieze New York Quill & Pad
Breguet Connects May 31, 2024

Breguet Connects the Dots between Art and Time at Frieze New York

Breguet was an engineer, an astronomer and also a designer. He adapted certain techniques to horology, such as guilloché, for example. The art of Breguet is in the details, in the finishing, and the artworks at Frieze are also all about the details … an artwork is something you have to look at multiple times, and each time, you're going to discover different things.

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First Look - Louis Erard Unveils its First Regulator with a Grand Feu Enamel Dial Monochrome
Louis Erard Unveils May 29, 2024

First Look - Louis Erard Unveils its First Regulator with a Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Louis Erard pursues its mission of delivering traditional handmade decorative techniques at accessible prices. Usually the preserve of top-tier brands, dials decorated with métiers d’art techniques like guilloché or enamel command hefty prices. Luckily, Louis Erard thinks differently and is determined to offer its appreciative public original watches with beautifully executed dials that won’t break the […]

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Introducing - The Awake Dare & Dream with a Doodle Art Dial Monochrome
May 16, 2024

Introducing - The Awake Dare & Dream with a Doodle Art Dial

Awake, a spirited French watchmaking brand, initially grabbed our attention with its NASA-themed series (now sold out), followed by the Time Travellers collection featuring meteorite dials (also sold out). Towards the end of last year, Awake unveiled the Summetria collection, boasting dials adorned with coloured guilloché patterns, which are still available. Now, the brand introduces […]

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Introducing The Louis Erard x Cédric Johner Collaboration Worn & Wound
Louis Erard x Cédric Johner Collaboration Apr 26, 2024

Introducing The Louis Erard x Cédric Johner Collaboration

To say that Louis Erard has been on a roll would be a massive understatement. Watches like the Petite Seconde Guilloche and the Main II showcase a level of build quality, attention to detail, and finishing that is far above their price points. What has made all this possible is Louis Erard’s willingness to work with artists, craftsmen, and independent watchmakers to usher in new ideas and techniques. This openness to and appreciation for individual style and traditional methods has been the brand’s calling card as of late. In this same spirit, Louis Erard proudly introduces Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Cédric Johner, a new duo of watches created in collaboration with esteemed watchmaker and jeweler Cédric Johner. We’re excited to offer them right here in the Windup Watch Shop and discover what makes these two new watches some of the best and most personalized Louis Erard has ever created. To say that Louis Erard has been on a roll would be a massive understatement. Watches like the Petite Seconde Guilloche and the Main II showcase a level of build quality, attention to detail, and finishing that is far above their price points. What has made all this possible is Louis Erard’s willingness to work with artists, craftsmen, and independent watchmakers to usher in new ideas and techniques. This openness to and appreciation for individual style and traditional methods has been the brand’s calling card as of late. In this same spirit, Louis Erard proudly introduces Le...

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Hands On: Rolex Perpetual 1908 in Platinum “Ice Blue” SJX Watches
Rolex Perpetual 1908 Apr 24, 2024

Hands On: Rolex Perpetual 1908 in Platinum “Ice Blue”

When Rolex surprised with the launch of the 1908 last year, we liked it – Brandon Moore wrote a positive review. Now Rolex has followed up with the Perpetual 1908 in platinum (ref. 52506) with an “ice blue” guilloché dial of notably high quality. Though identical in almost all respects to the versions in gold, the new 1908 is very different – and significantly more compelling. Initial thoughts Done the traditional way with a hand-operated machine, the guilloché dial gives the watch an entirely different character. The pale blue is also more modern and striking than last year’s colours, which were fairly old fashioned. At the same time, the dial has a slightly glossy finish that gives it an even brighter hue. The guilloché transforms the dial, which was fairly staid in the earlier models. I would still do away with the peculiar hands inspired by the Submariner and other sports watches, but the dial is attractive as it is. The dial is engraved on a hand-operated rose engine Not only does it look better, the platinum 1908 also feels more appealing. It has the same slim profile as the gold versions, but has more heft thanks to the denser case material. More generally, it has the same tactile quality as all Rolex watches – it feels tangibly well made despite the compact size. While the dial is impressive artisanal quality, the rest of the watch is outstanding industrial quality. Though the case is thin, it is exceptionally robust and solid, as is the screw-down ...

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Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 6301A-010 Grande Sonnerie “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 22, 2024

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 6301A-010 Grande Sonnerie “Only Watch”

Having announced its return with an auction on May 10, 2024, Only Watch has finally revealed the watch that everyone has been waiting for: the Patek Philippe Grande and Petite Sonnerie Ref. 6301A-010 “Only Watch”. Based on the standard version of Patek Philippe’s clockwatch – which is the second most complicated watch in the brand’s catalogue – the ref. 6301A has a stainless steel case like several past Only Watch editions and more unusually, a Rare Handcrafts hand guilloche dial covered with blue-green translucent fired enamel and 12 baguette-cut diamond indices. For the moment, the ref. 6301A is the only timepiece in Only Watch 2024 that is an entirely new creation, while the rest of the offerings are carried over from last year’s event (though word has it a prominent independent watchmaker might be making significant modifications to his creation). Initial thoughts Patek Philippe’s original creation for the what was originally Only Watch 2023 was a unique version of the Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P. After that got postponed to May this year, Patek Philippe replaced its original contribution with the ref. 6301A. Though only the dial differs from the standard version in terms of visuals, the ref. 6301A is strikingly different. With its elaborate dial, it looks less formal and more decorative. Thought arguably less surprising than the ref. 1938P that was an entirely new reference and complication, the ref. 6301A is more complicated, expensive, and elabo...

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[Video] Hands-On Impressions of the New Rolex Novelties Worn & Wound
Rolex Novelties Rolex always seems Apr 11, 2024

[Video] Hands-On Impressions of the New Rolex Novelties

Rolex always seems to be the talk of the town during Watches & Wonders. It’s the first booth everyone flocks to on Day 1 at 8:30am when the curtains come up. It’s quite the site to see actually. We at Worn & Wound can’t deny the effect the Rolex releases have on not only watch enthusiasts but the entire luxury world. THIS is what people are waiting for. Well the question of the day is..was the wait worth it this year?  I had a sneaky feeling that this would be sort of a mild year for Rolex. They did so much last year at Watches & Wonders with the new Daytona collection, the Emoji Day-Date, and of course the Gumball Oyster Perpetual. That’s a lot to top. Even though I got the sense that most people were underwhelmed with the releases this year, I was very excited to have my first ever appointment with Rolex at the show to get hands on. I got to spend about 40 minutes with all the new releases and I’ll be honest, I think they’re great. The watch that really struck me and I personally feel is the strongest release for Rolex this year is the new Perpetual 1908 in Ice Blue. The dial was absolutely mesmerizing and features what Rolex calls a guilloche rice-grain motif. I often hear from the watch community that Rolex is sometimes too simple or just doesn’t “wow”. I think anyone would have a hard time picking up this watch and not being impressed by the level of finishing it has. Cased in 950 platinum, the watch also features the calibre 7140 which of course ho...

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Rolex Debuts the Perpetual 1908 in Platinum SJX Watches
Rolex Debuts Apr 10, 2024

Rolex Debuts the Perpetual 1908 in Platinum

Last year, Rolex made waves with its new dress watch collection, the Perpetual 1908. Initially comprising four references in yellow and white gold with silver and black dials, the 1908 now gains a new addition: the Perpetual 1908 (ref. 52506) in platinum. Continuing with the Rolex tradition of a dial colour unique to platinum models, the new 1908 features an ice blue dial finished with rice-grain guilloché that is traditionally applied with a rose engine. Initial thoughts The release of the 1908 was unexpected and marked a departure from the brand’s focus on sports watches. The models launched last year, however, were conservatively styled. The introduction of a guilloché dial, a first for the range, livens up the aesthetics of the 1908 while still retaining the overall design. The traditional engine-turning lends a three-dimensional effect to the dial, enhancing its aesthetic appeal. Additionally, it adds an artisanal touch to the model. The platinum ref. 52506 is priced at US$30,900, a sizeable increase over its yellow and white gold counterparts, but comparable to the pricing for other Rolex models, particularly with the addition of the guilloche dial. The Perpetual 1908 introduced last year in white gold (left) and yellow gold (right) “Rice-grain” guilloché The latest release showcases a striking ice blue dial adorned with an intricate guilloché “rice-grain” motif, achieved through the engraving technique of guillochage, whereby an engraver employs an eng...

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Nothing stealth wealth about the new platinum Rolex Perpetual 1908 Time+Tide
Rolex Perpetual 1908 Rolex’s dressiest Apr 9, 2024

Nothing stealth wealth about the new platinum Rolex Perpetual 1908

Rolex’s dressiest piece gets the most luscious makeover possible. The guilloché of the dial is also a rare sight in a Rolex, matching really well with the coined bezel. It joins the line-up of yellow and Everose gold variants, with either a black or brown leather strap fitted with a case-matching platinum buckle. Fans of … ContinuedThe post Nothing stealth wealth about the new platinum Rolex Perpetual 1908 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hands On With The Louis Erard Excellence Collection Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Excellence Collection Louis Erard’s Mar 20, 2024

Hands On With The Louis Erard Excellence Collection

Louis Erard’s appeal is that of a legitimately independent brand mixes a taste of high horology with compelling value. Across the entire Excellence collection, we see various design elements, materials, and finishing techniques that belie the watches’ price points. A hands-on experience with the collection brings a new level of appreciation for the level of detail that each particular model boasts. Take the Louis Erard Excellence Petite Seconde, the brand’s take on an elevated everyday watch. After marveling at the striking dial colors and complementary straps, we appreciate the harmony of the various textures and dial elements. On the other hand, the Regulateur Lapis-Lazuli wows us with its ultramarine and speckled blue stone dial, which is accentuated by using an interesting and uncommon regulator format. Not to be outdone, the Excellence Guilloché Main II is a master class of high-end finishing at a more approachable price than most. The lines comprising the concentric circles and diamond are intricately etched using a rose engine lathe in a process pioneered by Abraham-Louis Breguet. We’re excited to offer the Louis Erard Excellence collection in the Windup Watch Shop because, simply put, they are special. Zach Weiss gets hands-on with the watches in our latest video here. Louis Erard’s appeal is that of a legitimately independent brand mixes a taste of high horology with compelling value. Across the entire Excellence collection, we see various design elemen...

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Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 in Pink Gold SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Mar 7, 2024

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 in Pink Gold

To mark the collection’s fifth anniversary, Audemars Piguet (AP) has launched seven new variants of the Code 11.59 in pink gold that are available in both 41 mm and 38 mm cases, with the 41 mm option being available with or without a chronograph. While none of the individual elements are novel (the new models are a melange of successful elements from recent launches) the new 38 mm model in navy blue – specifically the same hue as the Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 5402 ST – is one of the most appealing variants of the Code 11.59 to-date. Initial thoughts Though often considered a gateway to the brand’s most sought-after models like the Royal Oak, the Code 11.59 has quietly evolved into a full-fledged collection that now includes everything from simple time-only pieces to the grandest of grand complications.  The new references reflect the updated Code 11.59 aesthetic introduced last year in stainless steel, which comprised an updated hand set and stamped guilloché dials in crowd-pleasing colours like navy blue and dark green. It is in this respect that the 38 mm model with navy blue dial that stands out. While not the first 38 mm Code 11.59, it is the first in a mainstream colourway. Combined with the more wearable size, this new variant adds significant appeal to the overall collection. The pricing of the new Code 11.59 depends on the size and the complication: the 38 mm models are priced at CHF27,500, while the 41 mm is available for extra CHF1,000 and the chronogr...

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Audemars Piguet Debuts a Royal Oak Pair with Smoked Yellow Gold Dials SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Debuts Mar 7, 2024

Audemars Piguet Debuts a Royal Oak Pair with Smoked Yellow Gold Dials

Audemars Piguet has just launched its “first semester collection” that’ll take us through the first half of the year. Most are variations of current models, with two of the most striking sharing the same dial in “smoked yellow gold”, namely the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding 37 mm (ref. 15550BA) and the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 mm (ref. 26240BA). Both are fashioned in yellow gold and complemented by a striking dial with a gradient yellow gold finish, conceived to homage to the brand’s yellow gold Royal Oak models of the 1970s. Initial thoughts The smoked yellow gold finish was introduced on the Royal Oak “Jumbo” in 2022, so the new releases aren’t a surprise. Nonetheless, it is satisfying to see this dial finish on more compact models like the 37 mm ref. 15550. Between the two releases, the time-only ref. 15550 is the standout. The clean, radially brushed dial pairs perfectly with the finely grained texture of the frosted case. On the other hand, the dial finish is less punchy on the chronograph due to the traditional tapisserie guilloche. The chronograph, however, is an imposing watch overall due to its size and weight. The time-only model retails for CHF55,000, while the chronograph is priced at CHF63,000 – both sit in the current range for similar Royal Oak models. Neither is a value proposition, though both are appealing variants of the design. Smoked yellow gold dials Both new launches are variants of existing models, compact Royal ...

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