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Results for Seagull

360 articles · 90 videos found · page 8 of 15

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The Entry-Level Urwerk UR-101 Gets the T-Rex Treatment SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-101 Gets Mar 19, 2025

The Entry-Level Urwerk UR-101 Gets the T-Rex Treatment

Modelled on the first-ever Urwerk wristwatch, the UR-101 T-Rex is the independent watchmaker’s latest entry-level model. Priced at CHF38,000 before taxes, or about US$43,000, the UR-101 combines the brand’s signature wandering hours display with an aged bronze case finished with a scale-like guilloche. Initial thoughts Urwerk doesn’t do vintage-inspired watches often, and when it does the result is restyled enough to make it clearly modern. This is in keeping with the brand founders’ ethos, which looks forward rather than back. That’s the case with the UR-101 T-Rex. Though it takes the same form as the vintage original, it’s recognisable as a new creation. The vintage-inspired concept is appealing, as is the sub-US$50,000 price. While I like the idea of a revival, I find the “T-Rex” pattern a bit too aggressive. A polished finish that replicates the original would have been unimaginative, but more subtle engine turning would be an interesting counterpoint to the avant-garde style of the watch. That said, since the UR-101 is a limited edition of 100 pieces, I can safely assume that new variants are planned for the future. The tab on the back releases the crown to set the time Vintage inspired The new UR-101 is Urwerk’s second historically-inspired watch after the UR-102 “Reloaded” of 2023 that was similarly based on the brand’s early creations. Like its predecessor, the UR-101 retains the form of the vintage original, but is scaled up to 41 mm wide ...

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Independent Watchmaking on Show in London SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Raúl Pagès Mar 11, 2025

Independent Watchmaking on Show in London

Phillips Perpetual will shortly open a three-day exhibition dedicated to independent watchmaking at its London showroom. Independent Spirit will comprise five notable watchmakers whose work encapsulate the diversity of the genre: Konstantin Chaykin, Raúl Pagès, Theo Auffret, Charles Frodsham, and David Candaux. The watch boutique arm of the eponymous auctioneer, Phillips Perpetual conceived the exhibition as a small-scale event that will allow personal interaction with each of the watchmakers, or in the case of the long-departed Charles Frodsham, the brand’s representatives. The exhibition will be a rare opportunity to meet some of the leading lights of independent watchmaking. Amongst them is Raúl Pagès, a true artisanal watchmaker in the traditional sense. Mr Pages will have on hand examples of the Soberly Onyx, his inaugural watch, and the RP1 Régulateur à détente that won him the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize. Raúl Pagès While all of the other watchmakers at the exhibition are relatively young, Charles Frodsham is a continuously-operating, centuries-old brand – proof that independent watchmaking innovation can come from unexpected places. The movement of the Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer The only watchmaker absent is Konstantin Chaykin, who unfortunately was not able to travel for the exhibition due to travel restrictions resulting from his nationality. That’s unfortunately as the Russian watch- and clockmaker is a technician and artist whom I ...

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Pre-Owned Spotlight: Getting Hip With Geezer Watches Fratello
Jan 16, 2025

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Getting Hip With Geezer Watches

Now, I must admit that trendiness does not appeal to me in watches. I like style over fashion, and something built to last, like a watch, suits that mindset. Still, watches aren’t immune to the fashion cycle. The latest hot trend is undoubtedly the geezer watch. The hippest individuals in our industry no longer walk […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Getting Hip With Geezer Watches to read the full article.

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Hands-On: the Orion Sylph Worn & Wound
Seiko NH movements- Dec 23, 2024

Hands-On: the Orion Sylph

I have a confession: I previously dismissed Orion for the wrong reasons. As an avid collector of microbrands, somewhere along the way I subconsciously created an arbitrary value scale based solely on movements. Collecting primarily in the sub $500 range, most watches that have passed through my watchbox have been powered by Seiko NH movements- the long reigning king of budget friendly 3rd party workhouse movements. On the occasions that I crossed that $500 threshold, I’ve been conditioned to expect a Miyota 9000 series, slightly more expensive, and considered an upgrade largely thanks to an extra two beats per second and the resulting sweeping second hand. Truth be told, I could care less about beat rates, but owning something deemed more premium is hard to pass up. It’s this human desire for the seemingly better thing that led me to shy away from Miyota powered watches over $700. Afterall, having $700 to drop on a microbrand opens up the option to own a watch powered by a Sellita SW200, a Swiss movement synonymous with luxury. Of course, this is a deeply flawed way to collect watches and judge value. And, (spoiler alert) a guaranteed way to miss out on value-packed brands that don’t blow their entire budget on a movement. After spending time with Orion’s Miyota 9039 powered Sylph collection, which hovers just over $700 like much of their catalog, I’ve gained a new appreciation for brands that prioritize finishing and design over being the best bargain by spec sh...

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Explained: The Rolex Parachrom Hairspring SJX Watches
Patek Philippe turning Dec 20, 2024

Explained: The Rolex Parachrom Hairspring

Over the last decade, metal alloy hairsprings seem to fallen out of favour across watchmaking, with even conservative, haute horlogerie brands like Breguet and Patek Philippe turning to silicon balance springs. Not to mention large-scale makers of sporty watches like Omega and Tudor, which already transitioned to silicon balance springs. Rolex, however, stands out. The Geneva marque continues to employ a hairspring fabricated of its proprietary blue alloy – the Parachrom hairspring. The Parachrom hairspring inside the cal. 4131 of the Cosmograph Daytona The advantages of alloy The use of blue Parachrom is rooted in the simple fact that the right metal alloy boasts performance that is at least on par with its silicon counterpart – while offering some distinct advantages missing in silicon. Alloy hairsprings are traditionally made of Nivarox (and its family of related alloys), a special alloy that neither oxidises nor change its dimensions with variations in temperature. Invented in 1933 and almost a century old, Nivarox is a mix of nickel and iron, making it a ferromagnetic alloy, thus susceptible to influence from magnetic fields.  The cal. 3255 of the Day-Date 40 is equipped with a Parachrom hairspring. Image – Rolex In order to make its hairsprings more resistant to magnetism and to bypass the Swatch-imposed monopoly on Nivarox hairsprings (Nivarox-FAR being one of the key companies of Swatch Group), Rolex set out to develop its own hairspring alloy in the early 2...

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Holthinrichs Ends the Year with a Limited Edition Collaboration with The Horology Club Worn & Wound
Holthinrichs Ends Dec 19, 2024

Holthinrichs Ends the Year with a Limited Edition Collaboration with The Horology Club

One of my favorite stories to cover over the course of 2024 has been the evolution of Holthinrichs, a brand I’ve long been fascinated by for their unique Horlogerie Brut design language and apparently boundless ambition. The brand shifted course quite dramatically in 2024, moving away from a reliance on 3D printing for their case construction, and focusing on a more affordable CNC-machined product that they hope will allow them to scale and reach new clients without sacrificing the brand’s vision. At the same time, they’ve also developed an insanely complex haute horlogerie piece that is easily their most ambitious watch to date. We covered the new affordable Signature collection earlier this year, as well as Ornament Nouveau, and we even had brand founder Michiel Holthinrichs on the podcast to walk us through all of it. To say it’s been an eventful year at Holthinrichs would be an understatement, and yet they’ve found time in the last days of 2024 to unveil yet another new piece, a collaboration with The Horology Club, a Hong Kong based collector community.  The limited edition Signature Ornament “Concrete Jungle” can perhaps best be viewed as a creative spin on the current stone dial trend. The dial is made from lume infused concrete, which according to Holthinrichs makes this the first luminous concrete dial ever made. We believe them, simply because concrete dials are incredibly rare (though not completely unheard of). Concrete, of course, is not a natur...

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Ressence Introduces the Smaller, Simpler Type 9 SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces Dec 9, 2024

Ressence Introduces the Smaller, Simpler Type 9

Continuing the development of scaled-down versions of its signature wristwatch, Ressence unveils the Type 9. Characterised by a 39 mm titanium case – the smallest model in the brand’s current catalogue – the Type 9 is similar to the Type 8 in being a time-only displaying just hours and minutes, with no seconds. In a first for the brand, the minute scale has been repositioned from the dial to the fixed bezel that now sports a five-minute scale. Initial thoughts The Type 9 is a logical evolution of the brand’s entry-level model that retains the trademark “planetary” time display but in a smaller, simpler format. With a diameter of only 39 mm and short lugs, the Type 9 is more wearable. Though the Type 9 is the most affordable watch in the line-up, the new model does not compromise on aesthetics, maintaining the distinctive look and feel. Priced at CHF12,500, the Type 9 is CHF1,000 less expensive than the next-most-affordable model, the Type 8. For me, it is an ideal Ressence wristwatch that combines a perfect proportions with affordability. Arguably the only downside of the Type 9 is that it adds to the ever-growing catalogue of fairly similar models. The overlap between the Types 8 and 9 are obvious and possibly confusing. Perfect size In traditional Ressence style, the case of the Type 9 has no crown. Instead time-setting and manual winding of the movement is done by rotating the case back. Due to its construction, the case is only water resistant to 10 m, “s...

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News: Casio To Release Its First Functional Ring Watch Teddy Baldassarre
Casio Nov 22, 2024

News: Casio To Release Its First Functional Ring Watch

Seizing the final months of the 2024 trend cycle, Casio joins the ranks of watch brands looking to expand their product possibilities beyond the wrist. Close on the heels of the recent Timex and Maison Margiela MM6 collaboration, which included a watch ring, Casio has shrunken down its own legacy design, ready to chart the next frontier of watch-wearing real estate: the finger.  Though the Casio legacy extends all the way back to 1946, the watch branch of the business has been celebrating its 50th birthday with a number of special-edition designs. The brand’s latest commemorative design shrinks down its familiar octagonal case shape to just below an inch stature, and is crafted entirely of stainless steel. According to the brand’s website, the ability to create this tiny, functioning timepiece is thanks to novel innovations in advanced metal molding technology.  This process utilizes Metal Injection Molding to re-create the familiar and nostalgia-inducing Casio design in ring form. The caveat with this process is that the case, back cover, and ring are all molded in one continuous form, and the ring size is set to 10.5 U.S. sizing. This is something of a blow to my fellow small-ring-size friends, though the brand details that each ring will ship with adjustment spacers to accommodate more sizes.  Unlike the initial set of watch rings released by Casio last year, which were essentially toy replicas of the brand’s most iconic models, the CRW-001-1JR is a fully funct...

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First Look – Maurice Lacroix Joins the Ceramic Club with its Aikon Automatic 39mm and 42mm Monochrome
Maurice Lacroix Joins Nov 20, 2024

First Look – Maurice Lacroix Joins the Ceramic Club with its Aikon Automatic 39mm and 42mm

The Aikon collection was a sequel to Maurice Lacroix’s best-selling, sporty Calypso line from the 1990s. Following the launch of the first model with a quartz-powered movement in 2016, the Aikon upgraded its offer with mechanical movements in 2018. Moving beyond traditional stainless steel cases, the Aikon has appeared with bronze, PVD, titanium, and even […]

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Voutilainen Gives the KV20i Reversed a Cherry Facelift SJX Watches
Voutilainen Nov 18, 2024

Voutilainen Gives the KV20i Reversed a Cherry Facelift

Although the Voutilainen style is rooted in tradition, sometimes it encompasses less-than-conservative watches, like the Voutilainen KV20i Reversed Cherry, a colourful variant of the brand’s signature inverted-movement model. Kari Voutilainen is one of the most respected contemporary independent watchmakers - and for good reason. He has struck a perfect balance between the artisanal aspects of horology with enough business acumen to guarantee him absolute creative liberty and longevity. Despite his success, Mr Voutilainen didn’t scale up his namesake brand, instead choosing to continue making small-run timepieces. While the KV20i Reversed Cherry is not a limited edition, only a handful will be made, as is typical of the brand. Initial thoughts The Vingt-8 Reversed is a staple of the Voutilainen collection, having started five years ago with the 28TI – short for “Titanium Inverse”. An evolution of the Inverse, the KV20i Reversed is remarkably similar, although much has changed in terms of details. Voutilainen wristwatches are characterised by two key traits: impeccable movements and hand-made guilloche dials sporting deep and rich patterns. The Reversed puts the former in the front, taking the place of the dial, while guilloche is concealed on the back.  While a guilloché front dial will surely be missed, the visible mechanics more than compensate. The latest incarnation of Voutilainen’s in-house cal. 28 reverses the construction, which required a number ...

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Tudor Introduces Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Pelagos FXD GMT Nov 1, 2024

Tudor Introduces Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time

Created in collaboration with the aviators of Aéronautique Navale, the air branch of the French navy, the Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time is Tudor’s latest wristwatch developed for a militaruunit. A sibling of Pelagos FXD “Marine Nationale” issued to French navy divers, the Pelagos GMT Zulu Time is housed in a titanium Pelagos case with fixed lug bars (hence “FXD”). Featuring a ceramic bezel with a luminescent 24-hour scale, the Pelagos GMT adds the long-awaited second time zone function to the Pelagos line of professional-spec dive watches. It sports a bright orange GMT hand along with faux-vintage, vanilla-tone block markers and “snowflake” hands. Initial thoughts Tudor was a historical supplier of watches to the French navy starting in the 1950s, a relationship that was revived in 2021 with the Pelagos FXD. The Pelagos GMT continues the partnership, but pivots to address the needs of naval pilots instead of divers. This also makes it more useful for civilians, since a dual time zone function is more practical for most than a deep-sea diver’s watch. At 42 mm in diameter, however, the Pelagos GMT is one of Tudor’s larger watches, which means it probably isn’t as handy for traveling as the compact Black Bay 58 GMT that’s just 39 mm. Still, the titanium case helps with lightness, and the large size suits the military design. In typical Tudor fashion, the Pelagos GMT is an excellent value proposition. For US$4,625, you get a titanium case with ceramic bezel,...

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Editorial: Memorable Moments at IAMWATCH SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 2523 world time Oct 23, 2024

Editorial: Memorable Moments at IAMWATCH

The first large scale watch fair I attended as Tempus in Singapore in 2004. A teenager then, I was fairly new to watches and found everything endlessly interesting. History never repeats but it rhymes, as the saying goes. Iamwatch just concluded in Singapore. In many ways it was similar to Tempus: also staged by local retailer The Hour Glass, a watch fair of sizeable scale, but unlike the 2004 event, Iamwatch was largely focused on independent watchmakers. Most crucially, it was also casual – the prescribed attire was Hawaiian shirt – which allowed for more personal interactions with industry personalities. As one of the largest retailers in the world, The Hour Glass has the pull to round up watch enthusiasts, and a great number turned up for Iamwatch, ranging from mega-collectors to royalty. Naturally, the watches spotted were diverse and often incredible. Many multi-million-dollar watches were circulating within the event, including famous examples that sold for record prices at auction, including the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 world time with a blue enamel dial and “Gobbi” signature. And even the Patek Philippe Cubitus was spotted on several wrists, the day after its launch in Munich. But 20 years on after Tempus, the enjoyment, significance, and enduring memories of an event like Iamwatch – for me personally – is no longer the watches, but the people. It was the moments, often during downtime or after the doors closed, when I got to converse with watchmakers ...

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Hands-On: The New Depancel Allure Chronograph MecaQ 36mm Fratello
Oct 19, 2024

Hands-On: The New Depancel Allure Chronograph MecaQ 36mm

Depancel has been inspired by 1970s car-racing designs since 2018. The new Allure Chronograph MecaQ in its reduced 36mm size extends this connection even further. Not only are the red and orange hues found on the three sub-dials and the tachymetric scale quintessentially 1970s, but the integrated bracelet also reinforces this feeling. Depancel Allure Chronograph […] Visit Hands-On: The New Depancel Allure Chronograph MecaQ 36mm to read the full article.

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The Latest Massena LAB Collaboration is a Rare Heritage Inspired Moser Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Collaboration Oct 16, 2024

The Latest Massena LAB Collaboration is a Rare Heritage Inspired Moser

If you’ve been paying any attention to H. Moser & Cie. over the last few years, one thing should be abundantly clear - the Swiss watchmaker likes to keep things simple. While they may occasionally indulge themselves with an overwhelming quantity of dial text, or acquiesce to the need for a chronograph scale, Moser has increasingly adopted a minimalist approach in their watch design, with wide open expanses of dial and invisible logos taking center stage alongside hammered enamel finishes, minute repeater strikers, and elegantly finished hands.  Today, Moser is throwing all that out, and, in partnership with Massena LAB, the brand is looking back to its history for what is, in many ways, its most traditional release in years. The Endeavour Chronograph Compax would, from anyone else, barely qualify as newsworthy. After all, what brand hasn’t dipped back into the well to create a historically-minded steel sports watch in recent years? Moser hasn’t, and that’s what makes this collaboration so interesting. Even the Heritage model, the closest the brand has come to the format, isn’t so much a recreation as a reimagination, a consideration not of how to make an old watch feel new, but a thought exercise in what H. Moser & Cie. might have made were the modern brand to find themselves in a different era. This new watch is not that. Though not a direct reproduction of any particular model, the new Endeavour Chronograph Compax is a genuine reflection on Moser’s history...

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The Nomos Tangente Gains a Double Date SJX Watches
Nomos Tangente Gains Oct 3, 2024

The Nomos Tangente Gains a Double Date

Nomos gently upgrades its classic wristwatch with a new calibre and double-date display: the Tangente 2date retains the signature Tangente design but with the addition of a quickset, twin date display. The same date is indicate twice, on the date disc at six o’clock and then again with a pair of brackets on the date scale located on the dial’s periphery. It’s powered by the DUW 4601, a new calibre that’s based on Nomos’ longstanding Alpha movement. Initial thoughts The Tangente 2date is essentially another iteration of a familiar model, inside and out. Though it still makes appealing, well-priced watches, Nomos hasn’t introduced anything truly novel in some time, and the Tangente 2date reflects that. As the name implies, the only novel element is the double date display that adds detail to the dial, which is fairly stark in its original iteration. At the same time, the date is useful in filling the excess space on the dial that results from the small movement relative to the case. However, the double date is redundant in terms of functionality, and from that perspective, feels gimmicky. The view from the back is appealing, with the extra-wide date module forming a decorative ring around the base movement. The DUW 4601  movement, however, is not exactly novel. Though Nomos describes the calibre as “newly developed”, the DUW 4601 employs the basic architecture of the Alpha, which in turn was a reworked Peseux 7001. In fairness, the DUW 4601 is substantially ...

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First Look – Three New Dial Colours for the Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase Monochrome
Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase Oct 3, 2024

First Look – Three New Dial Colours for the Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase

In 1957, the Flagship collection was advertised as a perfect alliance of technical skill and classic design. More than six decades later, Longines keeps the spirit accurate. The Longines Flagship Heritage line is part of the brand’s classic collection. It falls into the Heritage Classic category and is presented as an homage to the innovative […]

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The Raymond Weil Millesime is Now 35 mm SJX Watches
Raymond Weil Sep 26, 2024

The Raymond Weil Millesime is Now 35 mm

Essentially smaller versions of the preceding models, the Millesime Central Seconds and Millesime Moon Phase in 35 mm are the latest additions to Raymond Weil’s successful line of vintage-inspired watches. Debuting with five different variants, the new Millesime models retain the aesthetic that made the earlier versions popular: a contemporary interpretation of “sector” dial watches of the early 20th century. Initial thoughts Regarded as a “mall watch” brand for years – but nonetheless a profitable business of decent scale – Raymond Weil hadn’t been on the radar of most watch enthusiasts for some time. So when the Millesime won the award for watches under CHF3,000 at last year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), many of us were surprised. The Millesime, however, is more than a “mall watch”. It has good proportions with a “sector” dial that is well-balanced, and underneath is a no-frills, reliable Sellita movement. It is an affordable watch and has the build quality to match, but that is a fact rather than a criticism. Priced between US$1,650 and US$2,575 depending on the model, the 35 mm Millesime remains good value. It brings the “sector” dial-look to someone who wants a smaller watch. Vintage-inspired aesthetics The new Millesime takes after the original model, which was just under 40 mm. The case is nearly identical in design, a three-part affair with a flat bezel, large, fluted crown, and “glass box” sapphire crystal that ...

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G-SHOCK Introduces New References with 10 Year Batteries Worn & Wound
Sep 18, 2024

G-SHOCK Introduces New References with 10 Year Batteries

With the release of G-SHOCK’s latest references, you can tell that the brand is in it for the long haul. Ten years, to be exact. Yes, you read that right – G-SHOCK is promising a ten-year battery life on their latest GA-010 and GD-010 watch series. I mean, maybe we should be getting through this election cycle before we start thinking too far into the future, but if the Jetsons and those Treehouse of Horror episodes of The Simpsons indicate anything, there’s a promise of flying cars, teleporting devices, and sassy robots with a Brooklyn accent to look forward to. And, right by my side will be my old pal, my G-SHOCK. Utilizing the standard faceted case design, both collections – and all six references total – take the best of G-SHOCK technology to build a watch that is shock absorbing, extra rugged, and water resistant up to 200 meters. Between the GA-010 and GD-010 models, you’ll see that each watch offers something different. For the GD-010, you’ll find an LCD display featuring many of the standard digital features for G-SHOCK, like world time, stop watch, and an auto-calendar. The GA-010 ups the ante with a combination of both analog and digital components. Tonally speaking, these watches do a great job of being subdued without being boring. Colors among the references range from black, orange, and green (for the GD-010) to taupe, blue, and black (GA-010). This is a great design choice, considering you’ll want something that will still be in style for yea...

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Lunar Loveliness With The Louis Moinet Black Moon Limited Edition Fratello
Louis Moinet Sep 17, 2024

Lunar Loveliness With The Louis Moinet Black Moon Limited Edition

When we think of Louis Moinet, chronographs come to mind. After all, the company’s namesake invented the complication in 1816. Today, though, we’ll look at a different level of functionality. The moonphase complication is also traditional, but the new Black Moon Limited Edition ushers a novel method of displaying the lunar cycle. Admittedly, a stodgy […] Visit Lunar Loveliness With The Louis Moinet Black Moon Limited Edition to read the full article.

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