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Monochrome
While widely known as a China-made movement, the Seagull ST-19 chronograph has always been well-accepted by the watch community. It looks good, it has a tried-and-tested architecture (well, of course, being a copy of an old Venus 175), it has a classic combo of column-wheel and horizontal clutch and, mostly, it made it possible to […]
Time+Tide
New case, same movement - but how?The post Studio Underd0g signs exclusive deal with Seagull, launching the third generation of the “iconic” 01Series appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
Monochrome
When you think of split-second or rattrapante chronographs, you immediately picture high-end watches from Vacheron Constantin or Patek Philippe. Finding an accessible rattrapante chronograph, at least new on the market, is not an easy task, especially if you consider Swiss or European watch manufacturers. But something from the other side of the world is about […]
Teddy Baldassarre
A forerunner of both the rise of microbrands and the ongoing revival of France’s watchmaking industry here in the 21st Century, Baltic Watches emerged on the scene in 2017, originally as a Kickstarter project. Founder Étienne Malec discovered the inspiration for his watchmaking enterprise in his father’s watch collection and named the company in honor of his father’s Polish roots, after the sea off the country’s northern coast. The goal from the start, according to Malec, was to produce “timeless pieces, of the highest quality, for fair prices,” and most would agree that Baltic has delivered on this mission statement. Baltic watches are all assembled in a workshop in Besançon, France, the nation’s historical cradle of watchmaking, and evoke vintage timepieces like the ones Malec’s father collected and extensively catalogued in his journals. Here we will look at the Baltic Aquascaphe, one of their most recognizable watches. The first Baltic watches were the three-hand HMS 001 model, with a Japanese Miyota caliber, and the hand-wound Bicompax 001 chronograph, with the Chinese Seagull ST19 movement. While both these watches were successful, and put Baltic on its path to fan-favorite microbrand status, the small company has since become best known for its Aquascaphe series of dive watches. The Aquascaphe, which was launched in 2018, takes its design inspiration from early “skin diver” watches of the 1950s and ‘60s, with no small amount of influence from...
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Fratello
Studio Underd0g is one of the most refreshing success stories in modern watchmaking. What began as a plucky one‑man operation creating distinctive, cuisine‑themed watches has grown into a full‑blown enterprise producing more than 14,000 watches per year - and still growing. Even with Chinese‑sourced Seagull ST‑1901 calibers powering the popular 01Series and Swiss movements used […] Visit Studio Underd0g Establishes The D0ghouse, Its New British Watchmaking Facility to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Now taking place for the fifth year, Spring Sprang Sprung (SPRG) is a watch fair dedicated to micro-brands that is returning in November 2025. The Singapore-based event has grown from 22 brands in its first year to over 50 this year. The exhibitor list this year includes brands from Finland to China, as well as names that are arguably more established than the average micro-brand, like Oris, Nivada Grenchen, and Seagull. Also exhibiting are accessories makers, like Yi Leather that makes watch straps. As with past iterations of SPRG, the event includes workshops, one of which is a leather working class led by the proprietor of Yi Leather. SPRG’s founders are a pair integral to the micro-brand scene in Singapore: Sugiharto Kusumadi, who was a pioneering retailer of micro-brands when he founded Red Army Watches in 2004, and Yong Keong Lim, who owns Feynman Timekeepers and runs retailer BIG Time. According to its founders, SPRG aims to be “casual, welcoming, and inclusive… [bringing] together independent watch brand owners, enthusiasts, and newcomers to share their passion for horology”. SPRG takes place at the at the National Design Centre, November 8-9, 2025, from 11 am-7 pm. National Design Centre 111 Middle Road Singapore 188969 The event is open to the public, but workshops are ticketed with tickets available at Spring-sprang-sprung.com.
Monochrome
Long considered a low-end production site for accessible timepieces (which is still partially true), the Chinese watch industry is fast changing and evolving in a positive direction. Besides industry giants such as Peacock and Seagull (the latter capable of making split-second chronographs), there’s a burgeoning indie scene that needs to be explored. We can name […]
Worn & Wound
As someone who lives within a mile of the Pacific Ocean, the smell of the sea is one of comfort to me. Naturally, this leads me to like candles and fragrances that have a hint of that crisp aquatic breeze. Of course, this has little to do with watches; or at least I thought it did. But Amsterdam-based microbrand Batavi has launched a yacht-inspired fragrance and wristwatch pairing that evokes the ocean in all its aesthetic and olfactory glory, so you can bring that sweet, salty scent with you in more ways than one. The Marina Chronograaf lineup introduces four variants, each with identical specs but relatively singular designs. To start, each Chronograaf measures in at 46mm lug-to-lug, and a 38mm stainless steel case with 13.5mm of thickness conveys a sporty silhouette. Each model features two subdials, a running seconds and a 30-minute counter at the 9 and 3 o’clock positions respectively, a railroad track around the dial, and hands that lay somewhere between GMT, chronograph, and diver styling. Inside, a hand-wound Seagull ST1901 movement keeps the yacht-timer functionality of each reference ticking and promises a 45-50 hour power reserve. Fifty meters of water resistance, a domed sapphire crystal, see-through caseback, and stainless steel quick-release bracelet round out the package. Four dial options are available, and each colorway is about as distinct from the next as is possible. “Sunrise” features a cotton candy-esque combination of blue and pink, with a gr...
Teddy Baldassarre
At this point it’s a cliché to even mention how outdated and prehistoric a universally negative or condescending view of “Made in China” is in the world of watchmaking. Some of the most interesting new watch brands, and a consistently growing roster of some of the most talented and resourceful living watchmakers, are establishing reputations matching, or indeed exceeding, those out of Switzerland, Germany, and Japan. In this article I have assembled just 15 of these names, some of which have been around for decades and some of which are just coming on the scene. For your reading ease, I’ve broken these down into three categories: the established brands; the watchmakers; and the upstarts. Let’s start with the Chinese watch brand most of you already know… The Established Brands Seagull Tianjin Seagull Watch Group, aka Seagull, recently celebrated its 70th anniversary, and it’s not hard to see why this giant is the most well known and prolific Chinese mechanical-watch producer. The brand made China’s first Air Force Chronograph, which has been reissued as the iconic Seagull 1963 chronograph, a watch that still represents tremendous value at around $300. But it’s not just all affordable stuff these days. Last year, I wrote about the Seagull Split-Second Chronograph, calling it one of the best values in watchmaking at $3,200. Beyond the basic chronograph and this rattrapante, Seagull has added tourbillons, perpetual calendars, and minute repeaters to its repe...
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Worn & Wound
I had the privilege of writing about the last Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Salm0n release for Worn & Wound in September. Serendipitously, Studio Underd0g was in Montreal the following week with the RedBar traveling road show. It was a real treat to see and handle their watches in person finally. They even had one of their Pizza watches and their Moser collaboration. The latter was quite exquisite, as was the new Salm0n, but part of me hoped that Studio Underdog wasn’t moving upscale, leaving behind what got them there in the first place: affordable, whimsical chronographs that make you smile when you look down at your wrist. When I learned that Seagull had announced a new minimum order quantity of 10,000 units for their ST-19 series movements, I became concerned about Studio Underd0g’s most popular model, the 01SERIES. This worry was heightened by the brouhaha that followed the collaboration with Moser and the decision to use Sellita-based movements in their 03SERIES. Fear not, as Studio Underd0g has successfully contracted Seagull to create an exclusive and enhanced version of their caliber called the ST-1901B. This reaffirms their commitment to providing mechanical chronographs priced under $1,000. For those unfamiliar with the history of the ST-19 column-wheel chronograph movement, its origins are Swiss. In 1961, Venus sold its machinery, tooling, and blueprints for the Venus 175 caliber to the Tianjin Watch Factory. They then upgraded the original 17-jewel movement to ...
Fratello
Do you want to use a Seagull ST-1901 movement in your new watch? Sure, that’s no problem, but you’ll need to order a minimum of 10,000 units. That’s something you want to hear as a small brand when asking the Chinese movement manufacturer about possibly supplying you with calibers. But instead of looking for possible […] Visit Introducing: The Third-Generation Studio Underd0g 01Series - A New And Improved Breed to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
No Windup Watch Fair would be complete without Lorier. Since the brand’s introduction six years ago, they have become a fixture of the show and a consistent hit among attendees. Seriously, anyone who dropped by Center 415 this past weekend will know just how hard it was to even get to the Lorier booth. The big draw for the brand this week was their latest release; a new chronograph they’re calling the Olympia. In the lead-up to the show, I got to spend some time with the new watch, and with Windup behind us and the Olympia now available to everyone, it seemed like the right time to share my thoughts. Before we get into the specifics of the watch itself, it’s worth taking a moment to consider where this new model will sit in the Lorier catalog, and what it’s doing there. The short answer is that the Lorier Olympia is taking the place of the immensely popular Lorier Gemini. That watch, which was first unveiled at Windup Watch Fair in New York City a full five years ago, was a mid-century inspired bi-compax chronograph powered by the Seagull ST19 hand-wound movement. $899 Hands-On: the Lorier Olympia Chronograph Case Stainless Steel Movement SII NE88 Dial White Lume Yes Lens Acrylic Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 50 meters Dimensions 39 x 46mm Thickness 13.8mm Lug Width 20mm Crown screw down Warranty Yes Price $899 I’ve always felt that the Lorier Gemini (and the Lorier Gemini SII) represented a serious step forward for Lorier. The introduction of t...
Monochrome
A new name on the independent watchmaking firmament arises, as Chinese watchmaker Neo Kung presents his Orienta. With experience working for the Seagull and Shanghai movement manufacturers, Neo Kung has a deep understanding of what it takes to build a movement. And by the looks of it, he knows what he’s doing! His Orienta has […]
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: Chris Gampat is a New York City based photographer who founded The Phoblographer in 2009, where he serves as Editor-in-Chief and Publisher. Therapy is a beautiful thing – it’s why we have soul-soothing hobbies like horology. The winding action of a Seagull 1963’s crown is a meditative process that reminds us to sometimes slow down when the seconds of a day are still ticking away. It’s a lot like turning the shutter speed dial on a camera – except that those are broken down into fractions of a second. Ask any photographer: if there were any iconic camera of recent years on the mind, it would be the Fujifilm X100v (MSRP $1399). Most of us appreciated it like a constant partner to walk hand in hand with as we documented everyday life. This appreciation spurred love letters and video vignettes by the TikTok community, of whom many perhaps discovered the deep love one can have for an aesthetic camera such as this. But can this romantic gem capture the moment that a watch lover can understand? There’s an appreciation for mechanical devices that we establish through our hobbies and pastimes. That appreciation is realized when you pick up the Fujifilm X100v. In cold weather, it feels like a cold memory documenter that will be with you through the most beautiful moments of your vacation. Looking at the front, we’re immediately understanding the retro appeal. The iconic shape of the camera is recognizable by nearly anyone. It’s here that we also se...
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Worn & Wound
I enjoy rooting for the underdog. This has, perhaps, been an underlying theme at Worn & Wound. It’s just too easy to always always be in the stands for the big brands that everyone likes and are really at no risk of failing (though, tbh, we do that plenty too). So, when a young brand comes around that is doing something interesting but perhaps to no fanfare, I take notice. Such was the case with Arcus Watches from Calgary, Canada. In 2021 I stumbled across a post of theirs on Instagram, as these things tend to happen these days, and knew I had to dig in more. The watch, called the Tropos, was nice enough looking, but what caught my eye was that it was a monopusher chronograph with a sub $1k price tag. In order to achieve this, Arcus, for their first watch, modified Seagull ST1901 movements with in-house components. I’m still impressed by that. Check out the review here. The Tropos The Mesos They followed the Tropos with the Mesos, which took the modifications one step further. In addition to being an ST19-based monopusher, they re-jiggered the mechanism to just start, and reset, but with the ability to hold before release, like a vintage Omega Chronostop. The idea is that you start the chrono and when you finish the activity, you hit and hold the button again, recording your time. Then you release to zero it out. Novel if perhaps not very useful, but the fact that they made it in-house is what really impressed me. Even more so, they only charged $599 for it. Read the M...
Time+Tide
The Depancel Legend 60s is their first hand-wound mechanical chronograph. It follows a more competitive and serious design language than the Meca-Quartz Serie-A Stradale. The Seagull ST1901 movement is based on a vintage Swiss movement - the Venus 175. If you’ve somehow missed some of our previous articles about Depancel, then the first thing you’ll … ContinuedThe post The Depancel Legend 60s is a twin-register throwback with bags of style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe’s 175th-anniversary collection contained a bumper crop of memorable models and the Ref. 5975 triple scale chronograph was the quirkiest.
Deployant
Bell & Ross extends their BR 01 Cyber Skull collection with a new reference in Sapphire Ice blue. Limited edition of 25 pieces.
Worn & Wound
Ah yes, the skull watch. While not exactly what I’d call a “staple,” watches featuring skulls have been ever present in modern watch collecting for years. Most notably, we can look to independent watchmaker Fiona Kruger as something of a skull watch specialist, but other brands are in on the skull action as well. From Invicta (of course, Invicta) to Richard Mille, there are skull watches out there for every taste and budget. Indeed, one of my favorite watches from last year features a skull in a nontraditional way. But we can’t talk about skull watches without talking about Bell & Ross, who have released a variety of these watches in their relatively short history. Their latest release, the BR 01 Cyber Skull Bronze, is one of the strangest yet. First, let’s answer the question many are likely asking themselves right now: why? While different brands might have varying rationales for creating skull watches, we can at least identify that the skull itself as a symbol is recognized somewhat universally as dealing with the idea of mortality. A memento mori, a reminder that every living thing dies, is a theme that exists in art going back centuries. This is a natural thematic playing field for a watch, dealing as it does with the passing of time. Also, they just kind of look cool. I’m reminded of a heavily tattooed friend being asked about the symbolism behind the artwork on his body (including, you guessed it, skulls) and his curt response, indicating that he just ...
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Quill & Pad
The skull as a watch theme have a long tradition dating back to early pocket watches. Called memento mori, these were decorated with skulls with the aim of reminding the owner to live life to the fullest and make the most of time on earth. With the latest addition to the Bubble collection, Corum continues this tradition, this time choosing a luminescent x-ray image of a skull to decorate the dial.
Deployant
Corum releases a new Bubble to add their iconic collection. This novelty is a tribute piece known as the Bubble Skull X-Ray.
Revolution
Playing with perspectives, reflections, and ultra-cool influences such as stealth bombers and origami, this new Cyber Skull has transparently obvious appeal
Deployant
Bell & Ross offers a new all sapphire Cyber Skull BR 01 for Only Watch 2021. One of the more interesting watches pitched for the annual charity auction.
SJX Watches
Bell & Ross has long featured the skull on its watches, a motif derived from its military-inspired designs. Modelled on the skull emblem often used by airborne units, the B&R; skull watch has been refined over the years, with the latest being an all-ceramic wristwatch incorporating an automaton. For Only Watch 2021, the watchmaker has created the BR 01 Cyber Skull Sapphire, a vivid, orange-tinted crystal skull encased in clear sapphire. It’s entirely incongruent with the brand’s typical no-no-nonsense aesthetic, but strikingly upbeat. Initial thoughts The original Cyber Skull is interesting for its materials and form movement featuring an automaton, making it a good base for the Only Watch edition, which departs from the all-black look in the direction of attractive and quirky. Bell & Ross didn’t disappoint in its Only Watch endeavour. Clean, contemporary, and clear, the sapphire version is completely different from its past skull watches. The watch has a bright feel, with the orange being bringing levity (and echoing the colours of Only Watch 2021). And it’s a big plus that the watch is technically unusual. While most B&R; watches are powered by off-the-shelf ETA or Sellita movements (which, to be fair are unfailingly reliable), the Cyber Skull Sapphire is equipped with a proprietary movement in the shape of a skull. It’s always the most valuable watches offered by high horology brands that get the most attention at Only Watch, so the more affordable watches in ...
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