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Le Sentier

Vallée de Joux village; home of Jaeger-LeCoultre since 1833 and Blancpain since 1992 revival.

The three watches TAG Heuer’s Heritage Director would save if the brand’s museum was on fire Time+Tide
TAG Heuer s Heritage Director would Jul 7, 2023

The three watches TAG Heuer’s Heritage Director would save if the brand’s museum was on fire

With an illustrious history stretching back to 1860, TAG Heuer have made an awful lot of watches over the years. Consequently, the brand’s museum in La Chaux de Fonds features over 3000 models that have been released, either by Heuer or the modern incarnation of the brand. As part of his role as Heritage Director … ContinuedThe post The three watches TAG Heuer’s Heritage Director would save if the brand’s museum was on fire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Gérald Genta Debuts a Mickey Mouse Repeater for Only Watch 2023 SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton makes Jul 7, 2023

Gérald Genta Debuts a Mickey Mouse Repeater for Only Watch 2023

The Gérald Genta brand, which has recently been revived by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the watchmaking manufacture of Louis Vuitton, makes its debut with a unique creation for Only Watch 2023. The Gérald Genta Only Watch 2023 retains the brand’s signature octagonal case, a shape historically known as the “Success”, while showcasing the whimsical side of the brand with a champlevé enamel dial featuring Mickey Mouse carrying a birthday cake. And like many past Gérald Genta watches, it tells the time with a retrograde minutes and jumping hours – along with a minute repeater. Initial thoughts The long awaited comeback of Gérald Genta, a given after its sister brand Daniel Roth was resurrected, raised expectations given the brand’s elaborate complications of the 1990s as well as the current technical prowess of LFT. Unsurprisingly, the brand has combined two of the best known themes from its short history, the Fantasy line of Disney-licensed watches and striking complications. The watch is essentially a homage to Gérald Genta’s best hits of the 1990s. The Mickey House dial is a nod to the Fantasy watches, most of which had retrograde displays. And the octagonal case is modelled on the Success, a bestseller for the brand at the time. That said, the new case design has the addition of lugs that feel slightly out of place. The original Success designs either did without lugs entirely or had simple horizontal bar lugs, both of which arguably work better with the o...

Farer Finds the Balance Between Simplicity and Size with the Limited Edition Palmer GMT Worn & Wound
Farer Finds Jul 6, 2023

Farer Finds the Balance Between Simplicity and Size with the Limited Edition Palmer GMT

The latest addition to Farer’s lineup of GMT watches is a balancing act between simplicity and the brand’s signature use of vibrant colors and bold accents. Farer is no stranger to dynamic dial colors, peculiar color combinations and large numeral displays that have separated Farer amongst the pack with their own distinguishable design language. It’s not just for looks either as their dial aesthetics account for prime legibility, both in daylight and low light situations thanks to the heavy dose of lume usage they’re notorious for, as well. It’s always an intriguing release when Farer releases a white dial because it allows the brand to explore minimal ways to apply color without sacrificing the Farer panache. With this new limited edition release, the Farer Palmer GMT hits the sweet spot in both simplicity and case size making it their most appealing GMT yet. The Palmer GMT doesn’t just use a standard tone of white for the dial; we are talking about Farer after all. Farer is calling the Palmer dial color “pearlescent opaline” which gives the dial’s surface a slightly creamier tinge. Each hour marker is raised from the dial thanks to the block of SuperLuminova that makes up its construction and is hit with a thick application of black paint on its top surface. This in combination with the black outlining of the handset maximizes legibility against the white, excuse me, pearlescent opaline dial. The use of numerals are much more subdued than were used to w...

Phoebe Waller-Bridge wears vintage Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas during BBC “Unpopular Opinions” segment Time+Tide
Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas during BBC Jul 5, 2023

Phoebe Waller-Bridge wears vintage Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas during BBC “Unpopular Opinions” segment

Phoebe Waller-Bridge is a powerhouse comedic talent. The writer and actor masterminded the critically acclaimed television series Fleabag, produced and wrote the hit series Killing Eve, voiced the droid L3-37 in the Star Wars film Solo: A Star Wars Story, and was brought on as contributor for the screenplay of the last James Bond film, No Time … ContinuedThe post Phoebe Waller-Bridge wears vintage Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas during BBC “Unpopular Opinions” segment appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dumoreau Follows Up their Debut with an Attractive Contemporary Dress Watch Worn & Wound
Jul 3, 2023

Dumoreau Follows Up their Debut with an Attractive Contemporary Dress Watch

The DM02 is the sophomore release from California-based micro brand Dumoreau, following the DM01 we touched on here. Designed by architect and designer Carlo Aiello, this dress watch takes his expertise in architecture and product design into the realm of the dress watch, while drawing on basic principles of proportion to create a compelling new release that slots in nicely with his debut. The dial features a two-piece construction with recessed concentric circles at the center, complemented by a brushed circular section for numerals and minute track. The indexes maintain their orientation as they encircle the dial, while the only branding present is the hand-applied Dumoreau name, seamlessly integrated into the concentric circles. The curvaceous all-polished 39mm case directs works to draw the eye to the dial, with lyre lugs providing additional visual interest. The stated goal of the design was to create a “dynamic organic geometry,” and the end result is a case with both gentle and dramatic curves that cohere nicely with the details of the dial. The screw-in sapphire caseback exposes the manually wound Sellita SW 210-1 movement, decorated with Geneva stripes and circular graining. With dimensions of 39mm wide, 46mm lug to lug, and a slim profile of 9.5mm thanks to the hand wound caliber, the DM02 is designed to fit comfortably on wrists of all sizes. Conveniently, it boasts a water resistance rating of 100 meters, uncommon for a manually wound dress watch. The DM02 ...

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Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri goes Big What Jul 2, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 56: Omega goes Blue + Furlan Marri goes Big

What a week! On episode 56 of A Week in Watches we cover a lot, yet barely even scratch the surface of what launched (don’t worry, we’ll get back to it next week). We start off with a look at the second collaboration between Louis Erard and Massena LAB. From there, we descend the depths of the Omega Seamaster catalog with a special collection of 11 new watches for the lines 75th anniversary. After, there’s a speed round where we quickly cover the Tissot PRX 35mm, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five Steel 38mm Cotton Candy Collection, and the Cara Barrett x Timex collab. Whew. The last segment focuses on a truly epic project by Furlan Marri, the Secular Perpetual Calendar for the upcoming Only Watch auction in November. Quite a week. This week’s sponsor is Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2023! After a successful weekend in San Francisco, the highly anticipated Windup Watch Fair is heading back to the vibrant city of Chicago from Friday, July 14, through Sunday, July 16, 2023. The fair will be held at Venue West, located at 221 N Paulina St in the West Loop neighborhood of Chicago, and feature over 40 brands. Visit and follow windupwatchfair.com for the full list of participating brands. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 56: Omega goes Blue + Furlan Marri goes Big appeared first on Worn & Wound.

An Unlikely Tudor Throwback (in Solid Gold) Heads to Only Watch Worn & Wound
Tudor Throwback Jun 29, 2023

An Unlikely Tudor Throwback (in Solid Gold) Heads to Only Watch

We’ll have a lot more on our favorite lots from this year’s Only Watch sale next week, but on this day of big Tudor news, we’d be remiss not to mention their contribution to the 2023 edition of the charity auction, a solid gold chronograph inspired by their very first automatic chronograph. The Tudor Prince Chronograph One brings some luxury flair to the auction from the tool watch specialist, in a format that the brand had all but abandoned by the time they relaunched in the US over a decade ago. In addition to being a literal unique piece (as all watches in the Only Watch sale are) this one sports a new caliber that is honestly kind of hard to believe even exists in 2023.  The 12, 6, 9 chronograph display here is a familiar sight to anyone who has dabbled in enthusiast centric chronos – it’s the hallmark layout of the vaunted Valjoux 7750, an ubiquitous caliber if there ever was one, used by more brands than we can possibly count over the years, including, of course, Tudor. The Tudor Prince Chronograph line that made use of these movements as well as the earlier “Big Blocks” dating to the late 1970s have always been collector favorites, coming in a variety of colorways over the years. It differs sharply from modern Tudor chronographs that use their in-house caliber with a 3,6 9 layout that seems to beg for comparisons to the Daytona, which of course is made by Rolex, Tudor’s sister brand. Now that classic layout is back, sort of, with what Tudor describe...

Only Watch is Upon Us Once Again, This Year Featuring Furlan Marri and the Debut of their Impressive Perpetual Calendar Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe Jun 29, 2023

Only Watch is Upon Us Once Again, This Year Featuring Furlan Marri and the Debut of their Impressive Perpetual Calendar

Only Watch, the biennial charity auction that finds an increasingly diverse set of brands offering one-off watches to the highest bidder, is back this year, and we’re starting to get word of the sale’s participants and the watches they’ll have on offer. You might recall that in 2021, we saw Baltic participate for the first time, which, in our opinion, not only elevated their status considerably, but the entire microbrand scene as well. For those of us who have followed and supported small, enthusiast driven brands for years, there was a certain amount of gratification in seeing one of our favorites getting worldwide, mainstream attention alongside the likes of Tudor and Patek Philippe. It was even better when we saw that Only Watch didn’t fundamentally change what Baltic stands for as a brand – they still make reasonably priced and attractive watches for hardcore collector and enthusiast types. This year’s slate of Only Watch participants features another small brand that we’ve been paying very close attention to since they first came on the scene just two years ago. Furlan Marri’s Only Watch debut caps what can only be described as a meteoric rise for the brand, and the somewhat mind blowing watch they’ve unveiled is genuinely unexpected and exciting.  Before we get into the weeds on the new Furlan Marri perpetual calendar – yes, their perpetual calendar – let’s back up a minute, because it’s important to understand the short history of the bran...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Jun 29, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked “Only Watch”

Audemars Piguet (AP) is taking part in Only Watch for the fourth time with the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked 41 mm “Only Watch”. In contrast to the low-key Royal Oak “Jumbo” made for the 2021 instalment of the charity auction, this year’s one-off creation is exceptionally striking in blue and white. The latest Royal Oak “Only Watch” is based on the regular-production Royal Oak skeleton tourbillon but made unique with a white ceramic case and bracelet along with a movement featuring blued titanium bridges and plates. The case and bracelet material is notably uncommon for AP. While the brand has a fair number of Royal Oak models in black ceramic, there are fewer in white ceramic. In fact, there is only one regular production model in white ceramic, the perpetual calendar. In the past, there were also a handful of Royal Oak Offshore models in white ceramic, including a chronograph and Diver. According to AP, one of the notable features of the bracelet is not only the material, but also that fact that is secured with “invisible pins”. This presumably means the pins holding the bracelet together are concealed with ceramic caps. The cal. 2972 inside is open worked in an angular, stylised manner that is very much AP’s house style. The bridges and base plate are blued titanium, while the bevels of the movement retain the natural grey colour of titanium for contrast, giving each of the bridges a pronounced outline. The rotor is 22k gold but ...

Timex Goes Retro with the Funky World Time 1972 Worn & Wound
Timex Goes Retro Jun 28, 2023

Timex Goes Retro with the Funky World Time 1972

Looking at the state of airplanes and travel fashion today, you’d be forgiven if you forgot that air travel was once seen as glamorous. Like the luxury sleeper trains that came before it, the jets of the mid-20th Century were not only a way to get from point A to point B, but to appreciate a level of style and service that has diminished over the last few decades. Fortunately, Timex is here to remind us of the golden days of jet-setting with their reissue of their Model 41, now redesigned as the World Time 1972 Reissue. Looking back through their archive, Timex has recreated a decidedly groovy watch for a modern audience. With its unique barrel-shaped stainless steel case and geometric red second hand, it’s a play on retro without looking dated. Most noticeable on the Timex World Time 1972 is the rotating bezel, which features 24 cities from around the globe. Originally designed for world travelers, the listed cities are marked by Greenwich Mean Time, and one has to simply rotate one’s current location with the hour hand,  making the wearer able to traverse time zones easily to know if it’s lunchtime in Buenos Aires or aperitivo o’clock in Rome. You’ll notice that the spellings are in French as well, as this watch was originally made specifically for a European audience. Très chic.  The watch’s case is a friendly 39mm with vintage-inspired integrated, downward-facing lugs. The Timex World Time 1972 Reissue is a quartz-movement watch and affordably priced a...

What Will I Pay for an Entry-Level Audemars Piguet? Teddy Baldassarre
Audemars Piguet ? If you are Jun 20, 2023

What Will I Pay for an Entry-Level Audemars Piguet?

If you are on a quest for the “cheapest” Audemars Piguet watch, it’s best to accept one truism right up front: that the cheapest AP is still going to be, for most, a major investment. When it comes to the most desirable Audemars Piguet watches, you can expect to lay out no less than five figures even for a pre-owned model, and new models are so highly in demand that even their already pricey MSRPs will prove to be a frustrating mirage for many prospective buyers, as those watches will regularly be marked up even higher on the secondary market. Nevertheless, in keeping with our previous guides covering Rolex and Patek Philippe, and in the spirit of every Audemars Piguet owner/collector needing to start somewhere, here are three entry-level options from three AP collections, with some details on what makes each one distinctive. (Whether those distinctions are enough to move you to buy one will be up to you and, perhaps, your financial advisor.) Audemars Piguet began making watches in 1875, when founders Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet first registered the brand in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. Now headquartered in the town of Le Brassus, it remains one of the very few privately owned firms in the watchmaking industry, still in the hands of the Audemars family. Renamed Audemars Piguet & Cie in 1881, the company primarily manufactured movements for other firms in its earliest days, including Tiffany and Co., but later gained renown for milestones like t...

Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a black sunburst rendition of the Master Control Chronograph Calendar Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre presents Jun 20, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a black sunburst rendition of the Master Control Chronograph Calendar

This Master Control collection was launched in 1992 as a look back at Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mid-century creations, but executed in a thoroughly modern way. It contains iconic features like the alarmed Memovox, but also this decidedly classic combination of complications – a chronograph and complete calendar with a moonphase. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar now … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a black sunburst rendition of the Master Control Chronograph Calendar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Time+Tide Shop becomes the exclusive Australian retailer of Zodiac - a pioneering dive watch brand Time+Tide
Blancpain s 1953 … ContinuedThe Jun 20, 2023

The Time+Tide Shop becomes the exclusive Australian retailer of Zodiac - a pioneering dive watch brand

The Time+Tide Shop keeps on keeping on, and we’re excited to introduce the latest newcomer – Zodiac. We’ll be offering pieces from all of Zodiac’s modern collections, and do so as the exclusive Australian retailer. A brand nearing 150 years of operation, Zodiac was among the first to introduce a dive watch, matching Blancpain’s 1953 … ContinuedThe post The Time+Tide Shop becomes the exclusive Australian retailer of Zodiac – a pioneering dive watch brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Citizen Series 8 Welcomes New 880 GMT Collection Worn & Wound
Citizen Series 8 Welcomes New Jun 19, 2023

Citizen Series 8 Welcomes New 880 GMT Collection

The Series 8 is Citizen’s take on the integrated bracelet sport watch genre that was introduced into the premium end of the brand’s catalog under the The Citizen banner, sporting the brand’s flagship movement developed in partnership with La Joux-Perret. It’s a watch we were quite fond of in our hands-on. This year, the Series 8 is taking a step in a new direction with the addition of this 880 GMT collection using the 9054 caliber, and some slightly familiar color schemes. This is a watch that ticks all meta boxes for the moment, and while it makes a lot of practical sense, has us wondering how it will fit into the broader Series 8 project in the long term.  Integrated sports watches and so-called ‘flyer’ or ‘traveler’ GMT complications are certainly having their moment this year, which is great for consumers looking for more options at a wide range of price points. Combining the two seems only natural, however the landscape of integrated cases housing GMT movements is relatively sparse. Citizen brings the two together in this Series 8 880 GMT collection making use of the 9054 automatic caliber, which offers that ‘flyer’ functionality, and offers a higher magnetic resistance than the 9075 upon which it is based. The movement offers plenty of practical features, though will be pushing the price ceiling of watches using other variants. But a watch is more than a movement. There’s a full steel case and integrated bracelet here, which should justify the ...

Naissance d’une Montre 2: A Handmade Future Built on the Foundations of the Past by Oscillon, Greubel Forsey and Urwerk Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Jun 18, 2023

Naissance d’une Montre 2: A Handmade Future Built on the Foundations of the Past by Oscillon, Greubel Forsey and Urwerk

The Oscillon duo of Buser and Devanthey have created the second release of Naissance d’une Montre with the Naissance d’une Montre 2. Using Oscillon’s own L’instant de vérité caliber as a base, one already designed to be made entirely by hand, the Naissance d’une Montre 2 brings the glory of the past to something that would make sense in any futuristic setting.

The 18 Best Watches Under $100 Teddy Baldassarre
Casio Jun 16, 2023

The 18 Best Watches Under $100

When it comes to watches and their price-to-value ratio, how low can you go to still acquire a watch that's reliable, functional, good-looking, and perhaps even a conversation piece? A while back, we found 15 such timepieces under $200. In this article, we lower the cost bar even further, to spotlight watches that will run you under a C-note before taxes. As you'd expect, most (but surprisingly not all) are quartz-driven, and we've divvied them up by brand (for clarity, Casio and its popular G-Shock sub-brand are separate entities), between the very few watchmakers that excel at making watches in this affordable niche. Scroll down for our compilation of the best watches under $100. CASIO Casio F91W Digital Sport Watch Price: $22.95, Case Size: 38.2mm x 35.2mm, Case Height: 8.5mm, Crystal: Resin glass, Water Resistance: Water resistant, Movement: Solar Quartz Digital Sort of a proto-G-Shock, Casio’s ubiquitous F91W speaks to legions of fans with its rectangular resin case, multifunctional digital display face, and ribbed, waterproof resin strap. The watch’s three buttons operate a 1/1000-second digital chronograph with split times, alarms and time signals, and auto calendar functions, along with an illuminating night light. Pressing the button on the right side of the lightweight case for five seconds brings up the model’s anti-counterfeit “Easter Egg:” the name “CASI0” briefly appearing on the screen in digital text. Casio AE1200 Worldtimer Price: $29.95, Cas...

G-SHOCK Celebrates the 4th of July with their Latest Special Edition Worn & Wound
Casio paying homage Jun 14, 2023

G-SHOCK Celebrates the 4th of July with their Latest Special Edition

With Memorial Day out of the way, most Americans are looking towards the Fourth of July as the next big Summer holiday. Whether you’re heading out for a long weekend or staying at home for a picnic with family, I’m sure you’ll be decked out in red, white, and blue. If you’re looking for an accessory that’s holiday appropriate and a little fun, the new watch from G-SHOCK should be on your radar. The Japanese brand has recently released a tribute to Independence Day with their latest addition to the 5600 line-up with the DW5600US23-7 model. Or, if that’s a mouthful, we’ll just call it the Fourth of July G-SHOCK. For nearly four decades, the 5600 has been synonymous with the G-SHOCK brand. With its iconic rectangular resin design and charmingly retro digital interface, it’s a beloved piece of watch culture that speaks to the heyday of the digital watches of the 1980s. With the release of the Fourth of July model, we see Casio paying homage to the country that played a massive role in making G-SHOCK a worldwide name. The watch itself has minimal updates to the overall function and structure of the 5600 platform and is more a revamp of colorways that puts the star-spangled banner to the forefront of the design. The band features both stars and stripes while the back has an eagle etched onto the stainless steel case. Even the backlit image of this G-SHOCK model features a hidden American flag on the LED screen. In terms of features, it’s a variety of the classi...

Opinion: Gifting Metal Worn & Wound
Hublot has Hublonium arguably Jun 14, 2023

Opinion: Gifting Metal

For Rolex its Oystersteel, their own version of 904L. Hublot has Hublonium, arguably the best named material in the industry. I like to picture a room of C-level executives in Geneva participating in a brainstorming session to name their special blend of magnesium and aluminum. Steve throws out “Hublonium” as a joke. Two hours later, there are no better ideas, and suddenly Steve seems like a genius. Feeling empowered, he suggests putting a rhinoceros on a Big Bang. Everyone trusts him after the success of Hublonium, so why not? 2 for 2 Steve. Congratulations. I can’t wait to see what you think of next. While the mixtures and creative names vary, ultimately, it’s all metal. This metal houses movements, dials, and hands. This collection of items gets thrown on a strap or bracelet. Collectively, the whole ensemble weighs 100, maybe 150 grams. It’s a small piece of functionality wrapped in metal, and sometimes that’s ALL it is. And that’s OK. But sometimes, for some people, this 100–150-gram object becomes more than a time keeping device. Growing up in Michigan, my grandparents lived on a small in-land lake a couple hours north of us. We made the drive frequently, enjoying hours-long daytime rides on grandpa’s pontoon boat, followed by hours-long games of cards at the lake house. My grandpa always wore, and still does, a tiger’s eye ring. There isn’t a moment I remember noticing this ring for the first time. It was just always there. The silky, golden sto...

Who are #tide and what do they do? Time+Tide
Jun 8, 2023

Who are #tide and what do they do?

If you’ve been paying attention to watchmaking trends in the last few years, then you’ll be incredibly aware of the push towards sustainability throughout the entire industry. Whether it’s a net-zero carbon production, vegan leather straps or the slightly controversial BioCeramic MoonSwatch, renewable or recycled materials are popping up in more and more releases. One … ContinuedThe post Who are #tide and what do they do? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The RZE Aspirare launches the brand into yet unexplored waters Time+Tide
Jun 7, 2023

The RZE Aspirare launches the brand into yet unexplored waters

I’ve often sung RZE’s praises as one of the few microbrands to have kept their prices as low as possible while providing fantastic specifications, and not giving in to the temptation of price gouging or corner-cutting. After they released the bang-for-buck Valour 38 to compete for field supremacy, and brought the best-selling Endeavour case to … ContinuedThe post The RZE Aspirare launches the brand into yet unexplored waters appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The OWO & House of Bovet Special Edition 19Thirty is a truly exclusive watch Time+Tide
Casio nally there’s something special Jun 7, 2023

The OWO & House of Bovet Special Edition 19Thirty is a truly exclusive watch

It’s not often I get to write about watches that can’t be bought, but occasionally there’s something special enough to warrant exploration. I have already delved deep into the history of Bovet, from their familial ancestry in Fleurier to their absolute dominance in 19th century Canton. Despite some struggles in the past, The House of … ContinuedThe post The OWO & House of Bovet Special Edition 19Thirty is a truly exclusive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: Cartier Privé Tank Normale SJX Watches
Cartier Privé Tank Normale Since Jun 4, 2023

Hands On: Cartier Privé Tank Normale

Since its introduction in 2018 with the Tank Cintrée, Cartier Privé has emerged as a favourite of enthusiasts because it delves into the brand’s rich history by reimagining iconic designs. That approach is exemplified in the latest addition to the collection, the Privé Tank Normale. Based on the 1917 original designed by Louis Cartier, the latest incarnation of the Tank Normale matches historical style with a touch of modernity. Initial thoughts Even amongst Cartier’s many famous case designs, the Tank stands out as especially iconic. The very first Tank was the Normale so it was only a matter of time before Cartier revived the original Normale, which had been out of production for some years. The revived Tank Normale was clearly conceived with attention to detail. It looks much like the vintage original, but with a gently modernised dial as well as the heft and refinement of a modern timepiece. One especially pleasing detail that speaks to its creators’ eye for detail is the bevelled sapphire crystal that mimics the glass of the vintage original. A standout feature of the Tank Normale is the bracelet, which is optional and expensive but looks good. Constructed with brick-like links, the bracelet evoke watches from the 1920s. The vintage aesthetic fits the Tank Normale perfectly, but the build quality is solidly modern. This is the first bracelet Cartier has offered for its high-end men’s watches in some time, and hopefully it won’t be the last. As for the cho...

H. Moser’s New Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Has Been Unveiled with a Few Small Updates Worn & Wound
H. Moser s New Streamliner Flyback Jun 2, 2023

H. Moser’s New Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Has Been Unveiled with a Few Small Updates

As an object of pure fascination, there are few watch designs that come close to H. Moser’s Streamliner. I have been low key obsessed with it since the first Streamliner appeared in early, pre-pandemic 2020. That first chronograph was, at first, baffling to me. I found myself drawn to it even though I’m not really much of a chronograph guy, integrated bracelet sports watches aren’t my thing, and, at the time, I didn’t really appreciate Moser, either. At the end of the day, the Streamliner’s subversion of my own expectations of what a luxury integrated bracelet sports watch should be are what makes it successful. If you find the Royal Oak cold and clinical, the Streamliner is warm and organic by comparison. If the Nautilus is the choice of Patagonia-vested finance bros, the Streamliner gets the endorsement of sneakerheads. Even at its most opulent, it’s the kind of watch that makes me feel kind of giddy, as opposed to slack-jawed intimidation, which doesn’t always translate into a successful wearing experience in my opinion. In a landscape of integrated bracelet sports watches that all kind of feel like riffs on each other, the Streamliner still feels like a true original to me.  For those reasons, I’m always interested in new versions of the Streamliner. As a blank canvas, it’s capable of communicating all of the things Moser excels at, depending on how they decide to execute any particular reference. The latest Streamliner is an update to the original c...

Tudor vs Rolex is no longer such a fanciful comparison and a visit to the new manufacture shows why Time+Tide
Tudor vs Rolex Jun 2, 2023

Tudor vs Rolex is no longer such a fanciful comparison and a visit to the new manufacture shows why

At Watches & Wonders this year, one night I accidentally got on the wrong bus from the Palexpo convention centre and found myself whizzing through the streets of Geneva in an unfamiliar neighbourhood. Aware of my plight, a kindly local on the next seat advised me where I should get off and we then struck … ContinuedThe post Tudor vs Rolex is no longer such a fanciful comparison and a visit to the new manufacture shows why appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Introduces the King Seiko SJE089 and SJE091 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Jun 2, 2023

Seiko Introduces the King Seiko SJE089 and SJE091

Since its relaunch last year, King Seiko has emerged as something of a budget-friendly alternative to Grand Seiko with its straightforward, vintage-inspired designs. Continuing in the same direction are the latest additions to the line, the King Seiko SJE089 and SJE091. Most notably, the new models boast a slimmer case compared to their predecessors, thanks to the higher-end cal. 6L35 inside. Despite the tweaks, both retain retro styling that pays homage to the King Seiko “KSK” from 1965. Initial thoughts While last year’s King Seiko models were executed well, I felt they were missing something, particularly in terms of case proportions. They were a little too thick for a vintage-style watch. Therefore, a slimmer version with the more precise cal. 6L35 movement is welcome. The new King Seiko remains conservative in style and almost a vintage remake. However, the case is significantly slimmer at 10.7 mm, compared to over 12 mm for last year’s model. This was achieved with a flattened “box” sapphire crystal and a redesigned case middle with thinner lugs, giving it dimensions better suited to the design.  The SJE091 The only drawback is the price of US$3,300, which is almost double last year’s King Seiko models. While the difference is justified by the improved movement and better case proportions, it might be tough to stomach given the stylistic similarity between the two. A slimmer case The new additions are modelled on the “KSK” model of 1965. They have ...

Tissot revives the trailblazing Sideral with a new forged carbon case (live pics) Time+Tide
Tissot revives Jun 1, 2023

Tissot revives the trailblazing Sideral with a new forged carbon case (live pics)

The 1970s were a spawning ground for all things weird and wonderful in design, leaving behind the classical, restrained designs of the mid-century aesthetic. Bullhead chronographs, TV cases and the idea of steel as a luxury material emerged in the watch world, along with some truly unique trailblazers getting lost amid the flurry of change. … ContinuedThe post Tissot revives the trailblazing Sideral with a new forged carbon case (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Kurono Tokyo Closes Out the Calendrier I Series with the Maroon Dialed “Azuki” Anniversary Edition Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Closes Out May 25, 2023

Kurono Tokyo Closes Out the Calendrier I Series with the Maroon Dialed “Azuki” Anniversary Edition

The latest from Kurono Tokyo is a new version of their Calendrier Type I, a reference that was a finalist in the 2022 GPHG awards. A triple calendar is an old school complication, so it makes sense for a brand like Kurono to experiment on this platform, with their design language so deeply rooted in Art Deco principles and mid 20th century ideas around size and style. The new Calendrier is a Kurono anniversary model, thus it will be sold as a “time limited” edition, meaning prospective owners will have specific windows during which they can make a purchase, and Kurono will fill every order placed in these windows. Kurono has also announced that this will be the final version of the Calendrier Type I, so if this is a reference you’ve been hunting, we’re approaching your last chance to snag one directly from the brand.  Kurono has dubbed this model the Anniversary Calendrier “Azuki,” a name derived from the maroon color of the dial. Azuki means “red bean” in Japanese, and in Japan is a color commonly associated with cars. Maroon was once a common standard vehicle color, so this watch is subtly auto inspired and a throwback in more ways than one.  According to the brand, achieving this particular tone of maroon was a significant challenge. To get the color right, Kurono used phosphor-bronze rather than the typical brass for the dial material, which allows them to get the proper shade of red during the finishing process. Kurono notes that phosphor-bronze is m...

Andreas Strehler Introduces the Strehler Sirna SJX Watches
May 25, 2023

Andreas Strehler Introduces the Strehler Sirna

Accomplished but relatively low key, Andreas Strehler is launching a new brand known simply as Strehler, which aims to reach a wider audience with more accessible prices. Mr. Strehler’s stated aim of the Sirna is to offer collectors a simple daily wearer that embodies the technical mastery he has become known for. The brand’s opening act is the Sirna, named after the town of Sirnach in northeastern Switzerland where the manufacture is based. Strehler marks a departure from Mr. Strehler’s previous work in terms of aesthetics. While his earlier (and pricier) creations emphasised his distinctive papillon, or “butterfly”, movement architecture and resulting cushion-shaped case, the Sirna is more traditional in form. It is a strong debut for the new brand and a sign of good things to come. Initial thoughts I’ve always admired Mr Strehler’s watches from an intellectual standpoint, but his cushion-cased designs have never resonated with me on an aesthetic level. Naturally, I am thrilled to see Mr. Strehler’s work arrive in a more traditionally-styled package. The Sirna appears to exudes quality – unsurprising given Mr Strehler’s reputation for good work. It’s enough of a reputation that other independent watchmakers turn to him for components and movements (more on that below). Even obscure details like the engravings on the case back look to be satisfyingly crisp and precise. And the patterned titanium dial is the star, though deceptively simple in style, i...