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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Canadian Independent Bradley Taylor Debuts the Lutria SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Bradley Taylor eventually returned Jun 14, 2022

Canadian Independent Bradley Taylor Debuts the Lutria

Having learnt the trade in Switzerland before stints at brands like Patek Philippe, Bradley Taylor eventually returned home to Canada and began a new career in independent watchmaking. His inaugural venture was a partnership, but last year he went solo under his own name and debuted the Paragon. A small-run limited edition that’s already sold out, the Paragon was classically styled and Vaucher-powered, which also describe the Mr Taylor’s next watch, the Lutria. Although executed in a similar manner to its predecessor, the Lutria opts for fancier dials in striking colours – including  “salmon” and a blueish-green inspired by the ocean view from Vancouver – that are decorated with traditional guilloche. Initial thoughts A formula that works especially well in independent watchmaking is simplicity done with finesse, which is what Mr Taylor’s work is all about. Both the Paragon and Lutria rely on top-shelf suppliers for the dial and movement, while also incorporating design characteristics unique to his brand, namely the typography that was developed by a fellow Canadian. So if you liked the Paragon, you’ll probably feel the same about the Lutria. The two share the same case and movement, but are quite different. The Lutria is paradoxically simpler yet more elaborate: it reduces the hour markers and does away with the seconds hand but adds colour and engine turning into the mix. The reduction in dial furniture complements the dial decoration, which is entire...

The best women’s watches of 2022 so far… Time+Tide
Jun 13, 2022

The best women’s watches of 2022 so far…

There was a time when a women’s watch could be spotted from a mile away. Unnecessary diamonds, pretentious numerals, overpriced quartz movements and generally lazy design are all hallmarks of the stereotypical “ladies” watch. However, recent years are showing a long-awaited era of exploration from brands who have finally decided to respect feminine diversity. The … ContinuedThe post The best women’s watches of 2022 so far… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hamilton is ready to rock with the new Ventura XXL and Ventura S Time+Tide
Hamilton Jun 4, 2022

Hamilton is ready to rock with the new Ventura XXL and Ventura S

The first battery-powered watch, and the one that graced the famous wrists of Elvis, Will Smith and Tommy Lee Jones – still doesn’t quite sum up the Hamilton Ventura for me. Throw in a line about its military-derived styling somehow combined with stepped Art Deco-like lugs, and we’re getting somewhere. Today, the Ventura is no … ContinuedThe post Hamilton is ready to rock with the new Ventura XXL and Ventura S appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Reimagines the Monaco Dark Lord SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Reimagines May 27, 2022

TAG Heuer Reimagines the Monaco Dark Lord

On the opening day of the 2022 Monaco Grand Prix, TAG Heuer takes the covers off the Heuer Monaco Special Edition, which takes its cues from the Monaco ref. 74033N, the all-black model from the 1970s nicknamed the “Dark Lord”. While it might look like a reissue at a glance, the new Monaco ticks all the right boxes in terms of vintage-inspired design without being a remake. Initial thoughts While TAG Heuer frequently turned to vintage remakes in recent years, the brand has now pivoted towards contemporary designs and concepts, a move exemplified by the Carbon Monaco and Carrera Plasma. The new Monaco Special Edition continues that – but at an affordable price point. The original “Dark Lord” is an attractive watch – the all-black look goes well with the square case and 1970s feel – and so the new Monaco is as well. But the new model is appealing because it is not a one-for-one remake, which would have been an easy to pull off but less interesting. The special edition manages to channel the feel of the vintage original by using rose gold accents on the dial, along with the textured outer section that brings to mind vintage synthetic leather straps. But it is entirely modern in materials and mechanics. The case is coated titanium, while the movement is the in-house Heuer 02. And this costs only US$300 more than a Monaco powered by an ETA movement, making it an easy choice for anyone who likes the model. The vintage Monaco “Dark Lord” ref. 74033N “Dark Lor...

HANDS-ON: The Tradition Quantième Rétrograde gets a Breguet Blue makeover Time+Tide
Breguet Blue makeover Tradition May 26, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Tradition Quantième Rétrograde gets a Breguet Blue makeover

Tradition is a buzzword in Swiss watchmaking as what we see manufactured today is typically the result of centuries of brand heritage. In the modern era, many novelties are created through age-old techniques, but with design codes and constructions that, perhaps, speak more to the sensibilities of today. Breguet, however, in their Tradition line really … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Tradition Quantième Rétrograde gets a Breguet Blue makeover appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari x Ducati Aluminium Chronograph Ducati Special Edition Time+Tide
Bulgari x Ducati Aluminium Chronograph May 26, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari x Ducati Aluminium Chronograph Ducati Special Edition

Watch brands collaborating with motoring manufacturers is nothing new, and there’s some lofty competition out there – 2020 even saw the release of a million-dollar Bugatti tie-in from Jacob & Co, so what could possibly top that? Well, two Italian icons of design and engineering have teamed up to bring the Bulgari Aluminium Chronograph Ducati … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari x Ducati Aluminium Chronograph Ducati Special Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO-MONDAYS: The Biotic Formicidae delivers an original field watch inspired by (wait for it…) ants! Time+Tide
May 23, 2022

MICRO-MONDAYS: The Biotic Formicidae delivers an original field watch inspired by (wait for it…) ants!

Microbrand releases can often be just an eclectic mix of design trends thrown together, or a wild attempt at doing something different without considering what people actually want. The Biotic Formicidae is a rare example of an original watch design that has a clear aesthetic vision without second-hand trend-hopping, and of all things, it takes … ContinuedThe post MICRO-MONDAYS: The Biotic Formicidae delivers an original field watch inspired by (wait for it…) ants! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic collection Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic May 21, 2022

VIDEO: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic collection

The Big Bang Integral seems to exist as a masterclass of materials and design for Hublot, with the brutish yet refined case shape meeting the integrated blocky bracelet to show off as much of their coloured ceramic as possible. Adding to their wide array of available colours come these new versions in an army olive … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Ceramic collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces May 20, 2022

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross

Having recently launched the second of its models designed by Takashi Murakami, Hublot returns with a collaboration with an another artist, British fashion designer Samuel Ross. The result is the Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross, a watch that is very different from the rest of the lineup, thanks to the open-worked honeycomb pattern applied across the watch. Initial thoughts The design of the Samuel Ross is unexpected and most notable for being a significant evolution of the Big Bang. While Hublot’s signature model was criticised in the past for being too reminiscent of a Royal Oak, the Samuel Ross is its own watch. It’s no doubt an acquired taste, but it is different. But for anyone who likes big, bold watches that are complicated – and look the part – this is mission accomplished. The extensive use of the honeycomb grid as well as orange rubber give it an aggressive look that sets it apart from other Big Bang Tourbillons. The bezel, for instance, isn’t the usual round affair but is instead an elongated octagon. More prominent is the extension of the honeycomb grid to the edge of the case, leaving the orange rubber to trace the outline of case, evoking a watch worn on a “Bund” strap, which enhances the sporty appearance. It’s through limited editions like the Samuel Ross that demonstrates ones of its key strengths, it versatile manufacturing prowess. The brand’s in-house expertise in engineering and production means an ability to make a great variety of ...

Five of the best ocean-going chronographs beyond the usual suspects Time+Tide
May 10, 2022

Five of the best ocean-going chronographs beyond the usual suspects

Imagine yourself at the Formula 1 – or any motorsport it doesn’t really matter. You can smell the heat oozing off the rubbery tarmac, the whine and hum of engines, the exciting echo of a presenter on the loudspeaker introducing the racers. You look down and note the time, activating a pusher on the side … ContinuedThe post Five of the best ocean-going chronographs beyond the usual suspects appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Skipping the light fantastic with the Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air May 8, 2022

INTRODUCING: Skipping the light fantastic with the Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum

Blasting onto the scene like a Light Cycle from Tron, the Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum is the French fashion house’s latest revolution in the world of super-luxury wristwatches. The Spin Time complication has long been a notable design among the Tambour watches from Louis Vuitton, and often forms the most exciting platform … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Skipping the light fantastic with the Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Splice The Mainbrace! Pusser’s Rum, Black Tot Day, And The End Of A Royal Navy Tradition – Reprise Quill & Pad
May 7, 2022

Splice The Mainbrace! Pusser’s Rum, Black Tot Day, And The End Of A Royal Navy Tradition – Reprise

The first Black Tot Day was in 1970, the last day on which sailors in the United Kingdom’s Royal Navy were issued their daily rum rations (“tots”). Pusser's has taken the exact recipe used by the Royal Navy when it discontinued the daily ration on July 31, 1970 and used it to make its rums, the only producer in the world to do so. Here, Ken Gargett fills us in on everything tot - he luckily doesn't go "sipping the admiral," though.

A colourful refresh for the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Geneva Springtime Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Geneva Springtime May 3, 2022

A colourful refresh for the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Geneva Springtime

Thinness is the word of the day, everyday, for Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo. Currently holding world records in several different categories, the Roman Jeweller imbues its design language throughout the watches it produces, while also making them genuinely wearable pieces. The accolade of thinnest may have been niche in the not too distant past, but is … ContinuedThe post A colourful refresh for the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Geneva Springtime appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 16202 and the Cal. 7121 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref Apr 27, 2022

In-Depth: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 16202 and the Cal. 7121

Launched in January 2022 to kick off the 50th anniversary year of Audemars Piguet’s most famous watch, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202 is the latest generation – or the third generation specifically – of the quintessential Royal Oak design. Design-wise the new “Jumbo” doesn’t depart from its predecessor, the ref. 15202, or even the original ref. 5402 of 1972. Audemars Piguet (AP) has smartly kept the design unchanged, but the watch has been thoroughly and smartly upgraded in many respects, especially in terms of ergonomics and mechanics. The new “Jumbo” is undoubtedly a “hype” watch of today, but it has considerable intrinsic qualities that mark it out as a thoughtfully constructed timepiece, most notably the cal. 7121 within that’s entirely new and the replacement for the long-in-tooth cal. 2120/2121 that has powered every generation of the “Jumbo” since 1972. Developed from the ground up to fit the slim dimensions of the “Jumbo” case, the cal. 7121 still manages to incorporate various amenities and advancements expected in a 21st century construction by a respected manufacture. We explain the movement in depth below. Initial thoughts Famously penned by Gerald Genta in 1972, the original Royal Oak ref. 5402 has near perfect proportions. Wide but flat, angular yet graceful, the “Jumbo” is easily distinguishable from other Royal Oak models. Most other Royal Oak models tend to be thicker regardless of diameter, making the ...

Breitling Introduces the New Navitimer B01 in 41, 43, and 46 mm SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Apr 11, 2022

Breitling Introduces the New Navitimer B01 in 41, 43, and 46 mm

Distinctive for its slide-rule bezel, the Navitimer is synonymous with Breitling. Having been in near continuous production since its introduction 70 years ago, the Navitimer has been offered in a bewildering array of iterations, but the 2022 Navitimer B01 returns to the roots of the model with a vintage-inspired design, but livened up with bright, metallic dials. Initial thoughts If you already like the Navitimer, the 2022 version is an appealing proposition. It’s essentially the traditional Navitimer design with Breitling’s in-house chronograph movement that has an excellent construction. The model is consistently priced given the in-house movement, while the design has enough vintage elements to give it a classic Navitimer feel. The dial colours, however, are modern, so this avoids being a vintage remake (which Breitling has done enough of). Of the three sizes, the 41 mm is identical to the vintage original, so it’s probably the perfect size. The 43 mm is probably still acceptable on most wrists, but the 46 mm will be enormous. If there is to something to criticise it is probably the wide range of models – two case metals, three case sizes, and a dozen or so dial types, though not every dial is available in every size. The number of choices feel too ambitious and confusing for a launch of a new model. Throwback design The new Navitimer is the first redesign of the model since current chief executive Georges Kern took the helm of Breitling in 2017. Unsurprisingly...

INTRODUCING – Panerai makes a splash with the Submersible QuarantaQuattro Time+Tide
Panerai makes Apr 10, 2022

INTRODUCING – Panerai makes a splash with the Submersible QuarantaQuattro

Famous for its military-devised, utilitarian design, the Panerai Submersible diversifies with a slew of new 44mm references. A variety of materials and finishes is united under one name – Submersible QuarantaQuattro. Formerly attributed to the Luminor range, the Submersible collection achieved autonomy in 2019, but retained the patented crown-protection system. Already featuring more than 20 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING – Panerai makes a splash with the Submersible QuarantaQuattro appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Talking With Anthony De Haas About The A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 At Watches And Wonders 2022 (Video) Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 9, 2022

Talking With Anthony De Haas About The A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 At Watches And Wonders 2022 (Video)

As part of its classy offering at the world’s remaining trade fair for luxury watches, A. Lange & Söhne revisited the Grand Lange 1 with a successful refresh in which the brand managed to shave close to a millimeter off the height of the watch. How did the team do it? Technical director Anthony de Haas lets us in on the magic in this video.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris combines innovation with elegance Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris combines innovation Apr 9, 2022

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris combines innovation with elegance

You’d be forgiven if you thought that Jaeger-LeCoultre was only about their stellar movements, or the case-flipping Reverso watch. True, the Reverso is an icon of design, and their movements are so renowned that they’ve powered countless other brands’ finest timepieces, but there’s much more to JLC. So much more. For instance, one of the … ContinuedThe post The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris combines innovation with elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Oris Propilot X get a revamp and some fresh new colours Time+Tide
Oris Propilot X get Apr 5, 2022

VIDEO: The Oris Propilot X get a revamp and some fresh new colours

The ProPilot from Oris has long been a bit of a side character for the brand, with the aviation-inspired look having a fairly niche appeal when mixed with the smart-casual dial, hands and knurled bezel. Now, the Oris ProPilot X completely revamps the series with a new, cohesive design language filled with bold edges, the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Oris Propilot X get a revamp and some fresh new colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

F.P. Journe Revives the Vagabondage I – with a Few Tweaks SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Revives Apr 1, 2022

F.P. Journe Revives the Vagabondage I – with a Few Tweaks

One of the most unusual amongst F.P. Journe’s offerings, the Vagabondage I was the first of a trio that combined a tortue case with an unconventional time display, along with dials that feature no branding at all. Launched in 2004 and long gone from the brand’s catalogue, the Vagabondage I now makes a return with a new case, dial, and movement – all of which are improved over the original. Initial thoughts The original Vagabondage I was interesting because of its wandering, jumping hour display, along with the central balance wheel visible on the dial. Eighteen years later the new Vagabondage I is interesting for the same reason, because it is essentially the same watch. While the new Vagabondage I has been updated in several ways, ranging from a larger case to a new movement, it retains the familiar look. That also means it looks like a watch from the early 2000s with a slightly dated air compared to most wandering hours on the market today. But that’s exactly what makes it cool. It is an old idea but one that has been improved in just the right ways. Most important amongst them is the case, which wider and longer than the original, giving it dimensions almost identical to the Vagabondage II and III. It still remains elegant and wearable, but the new case size is more appealing than that of the original, which is a little too small. Inching forward Fans of the brand will be familiar with the story of the Vagabondage, but here’s a quick recap: it start with a on...

INTRODUCING: The Longines Elegant Collection is a modern ode to simplicity Time+Tide
Longines Elegant Collection Mar 28, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Longines Elegant Collection is a modern ode to simplicity

Longines is a brand that knows how to use their heritage, which you would expect from the company with the world’s oldest active registered trademark in the iconic winged hourglass. Even when a design is completely new and modern, their logo on the dial is just instantly tied to a lineage of watches that seems … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Elegant Collection is a modern ode to simplicity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko celebrates the 44GS with a slimmed-down duo of SLGA013 and SLGH009 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko celebrates Mar 28, 2022

Grand Seiko celebrates the 44GS with a slimmed-down duo of SLGA013 and SLGH009

Never ones to shy away from a party, Grand Seiko release the SLGA013 and SLGH009. Celebrating the 55th anniversary of the 44GS, these Heritage collection pieces offer well-known GS movements, with improvements to their design, allowing for a better fit on-wrist. With stellar dials and Grand Seiko proprietary steel, neither of these 550-piece limited editions … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko celebrates the 44GS with a slimmed-down duo of SLGA013 and SLGH009 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.