Hodinkee
Introducing: The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5167A For The Singapore Grand Exhibition
The steel sport watch gets a new red treatment.
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Hodinkee
The steel sport watch gets a new red treatment.
Revolution
The five 2019 Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Special Editions indlucing the Ref. 5531 World Time Minute Repeater with cloisonné enamel dial
Hodinkee
The first-ever steel Calatrava Pilot’s Watch from Patek Philippe makes its debut.
Time+Tide
At the upcoming Sotheby’s Important Watches auction, you can browse the catalogue and find all manner of incredibly rare and important watches and clocks from all the best watchmakers in the world. There is everything you would expect, and more, including a possibly unique red dial Rolex Daytona, a factory gem-set yellow gold Rolex GMT-Master, … ContinuedThe post Best 5 watches for under $5K at the Sotheby’s Important Watches auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A concept becomes a reality, and the world of perpetual calendars will never be the same.
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SJX Watches
First introduced two years ago as an entry-level model styled on vintage marine chronometers, the Marine Torpilleur has just received an upgrade. The Marine Torpilleur Monaco Yacht Show is a limited edition fitted with a grand feu enamel dial, created to mark the watchmaker’s sponsorship, now in its 11th year, of the annual yachting event in Monte Carlo harbour. While the standard model has a brass dial, the Monaco edition has a three-part dial made of vitreous enamel that’s fired in an oven – a desirable feature that increases its retail price by a modest 20% or so. Like all of Ulysse Nardin’s enamel dials, it is produced by Donze Cadran, a subsidiary of the watchmaker that’s one of the few dial makers in Switzerland able to make fired enamel dials in substantial numbers. An old school dial The dial starts out as a copper disc that is covered with white enamel powder that’s then baked in a small oven, several dials at a go, to melt the enamel and fuse it to the dial. The dial has two apertures for each of the sub-dials, which are separate pieces that are covered in grey enamel and fired separately. After they are fired, the dials are printed with enamel markings, resulting in another trip to the oven to set the markings. Then the apertures on the main dial, as well as the edges of the sub-dials, are filed by hand to ensure a perfect fit with each other. Once complete, the sub-dials are soldered to the main dial. The dial is marked “09.19” – the m...
SJX Watches
Having created a number of appealing and accessibly priced “tool” watches over the years including the Seastrong Diver Heritage and the KM-710, Alpina now unveils the Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph, powered by a single-button chronograph movement supplied by its sister company, La Joux-Perret. The Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph is the second mechanical chronograph in the Alpina catalogue; the first was the Alpiner 4 Manufacture Flyback, which had a Valjoux 7750, likewise modified by La Joux-Perret to include a flyback function. The brand Alpina was actually founded over 130 years ago but fell victim to the quartz crisis in the 1970s. Then in 2002, it was acquired by Frederique Constant, which was itself then acquired by Citizen of Japan in 2016. Now, like its sister company Frederique Constant, it specialises in accessibly priced watches, made possible in part by the movement making expertise of La Joux-Perret. As with most Alpina watches, the Startimer Pilot Heritage chronograph combines retro design with modern dimensions and build. Its styling is recognisably 1970s, and evokes the experimental spirit of the era without being overtly flashy or eccentric. Measuring 42mm by 40.7mm, the Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph features a cushion case with the chronograph pusher located at two o’clock. Like all cushion-cased watches of the 1970s, it has a radially brushed top surface and case band that are separated by a wide polished bevel, which enha...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Panerai are known for many things – a rich Italian heritage in watchmaking that dates back to 1860, steep aquatic history providing watches for the naval forces of many countries, most notably Italy and Egypt, and a quintessential design language that has spanned the better part of a century … the list goes … ContinuedThe post Taking another look at the Panerai Luminor Due PAM00943 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The road was long, but we have arrived: at the start of the year, A. Lange & Söhne kicked off the gradual launch of the 25th anniversary editions of the Lange 1. Made up of 10 different models, unveiled one a month, the series has now come to a conclusion with the final model – the Lange 1 Tourbillon “25th Anniversary”. While all other watches in the Lange 1 family have remained in the catalogue since their debut, the Lange 1 Tourbillon was always a limited edition, making the last instalment of the anniversary series the rarest. The model was first unveiled in 2000 in pink gold (250 pieces) and platinum (150 pieces), followed by a honey-gold version (150 pieces) a decade later to mark the 165th anniversary of Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s birth. Then the watch received the “Handwerkskunst” treatment in 2014 (20 pieces), giving it a platinum case and glossy, black enamel dial, resulting in a very desirable watch. And Lange also quietly produced a handful of one-off examples over the years, including a recent one for retailer The Hour Glass in Tokyo. Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst The specially decorated movement of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst Interestingly, Lange 1 Tourbillon “25th Anniversary” marks the first time that the watch is produced in white gold. The case remains the standard size, 38.5mm wide and 9.8mm in height, also the same dimensions as the standard Lange 1. And like all prior 25th anniversary editions, it features a solid...
Time+Tide
There are certain watches out there in the horological ether that are not only lauded by loyal followers but also able to accomplish a hell of a lot for little outlay. Whether it is accuracy, toughness and dependability, innovation, or technicality, these cult-like timepieces are worth far more than the sum of their parts, and … ContinuedThe post 3 affordable timepieces that get the nod from watch snobs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Quill & Pad
Since its launch in 2005, Only Watch has been one of the most – if not the most – significant auctions in the watch world. Ahead of the eighth edition of this biennial auction taking place on November 9, 2019 in Geneva, let’s take a look at the 50 unique watches going under the hammer in the name of curing Duchenne muscular dystrophy.
Hodinkee
Bulgari's most over-the-top watch gets even more impressive.
Time+Tide
We’re heading into awards season for the watch industry, and they don’t come much more glamorous or glitzy than the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), which is set to take place in - you guessed it - Geneva on November 7. There are 84 watches vying to be named best in show, and the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The watches of the GPHG are heading to Sydney, and we’d strongly recommend you check them out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Artisanal watchmakers Franck Muller have really taken it to the next level with their latest timepiece, the Franck Muller Vanguard Yachting Anchor Skeleton. Available in a range of different precious metals, including 18k yellow gold and 18k rose gold, the case of the prodigious new wristwatch measures an imposing 44mm and is 12.65mm thick. Housed … ContinuedThe post The Franck Muller Vanguard Yachting Anchor Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The GPHG's Men’s Complication category awards “men’s watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. They may feature classic and/or innovative complications and indications like world time, dual time, or other types of models.” And our panel is split. Again.
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Deployant
We bring you the details and our thoughts on the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Gold Chronograph in white gold with purple dial.
SJX Watches
When Urwerk cofounder Felix Baumgartner was in town recently to launch the UR-100 SpaceTime, I quizzed him on the De Bethune and Urwerk collaboration for Only Watch 2019. While the other brands taking part in the charity auction had already unveiled photos or renderings of their respective creations, Urwerk and De Bethune only offered a pen drawing. Felix replied that the movement had been completed and delivered to De Bethune some weeks ago, and Denis Flageollet, De Bethune’s resident technical genius, was working on building the one-off titanium case. And now Mr Flageollet has completed the watch, and this is it. The initial drawing The meeting of minds Named the Moon Satellite, the watch is essentially an Urwerk wandering hours time display module – with the time indicated on satellites – mounted on top of a hand-wound De Bethune movement, resulting in the cal. DBUR2105. Visually the movement is trademark De Bethune. The calibre has a delta-shaped barrel bridge that is entirely mirror polished, as is the base plate, one of the most distinctive movement treatments of De Bethune. And in striking contrast against the polished surfaces, the balance and shock absorber bridges are in blued steel. The base movement cal. DB2105 boasts several of De Bethune’s patented innovations, including a spider-like titanium balance wheel, the triple pare-chute shock absorber for the balance, as well as the De Bethune hairspring and silicon escape wheel. And it also incorporat...
SJX Watches
The most talked-about watch at Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong is lot 2300, a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona powered by a Zenith El Primero movement that’s described as “a possibly unique… chronograph wristwatch with a red dial”. And as with all high-profile watches, the auctioneers have given the watch an Italian nickname, “Luna Rossa”, which translates as “red moon”. The reason the “Luna Rossa” is controversial is because such a red dial has never ever been seen before. Usually unicorns are known and whispered about, even if seldom seen, but the “Luna Rossa” has surprised everyone. Experts and insiders I approached have neither encountered nor heard of such a dial, which makes it quite a revelation. But they all agree it is correct – in the sense that all elements are identical to known Rolex dials of the period – though of unknown origin. Sotheby’s itself hasn’t provided much background about the watch, either officially or unofficially. Unlike the unique platinum Daytona “Zenith” that Sotheby’s sold last year, setting a record price for a modern Daytona, which had a backstory that was I managed to uncover, the “Luna Rossa” remains a mystery. The dial is glossy red lacquer, with gold indices and sub-dials When such unusual dials emerge, the immediate question is one of authenticity. The “Luna Rossa” passes the test – the dial is correct in its details. The element usually regarded as crucia...
Time+Tide
James May, doyen of automotive journalism, presenter of Amazon’s The Grand Tour and former presenter of BBC’s Top Gear, knows a great many things about the mechanical innards of an automobile. It turns out that Mr May is also rather savvy when it comes to understanding the complexity of the technology that almost single-handedly and … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: James May and the Quartz Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The very utterance of the words “must have” when talking about the ideal watch collection will almost always lead to, at the very least, enthusiastic speculation and, more often than not, heated debate. The Omega Speedmaster, for example, is forever being bandied about as THE watch to have in any discerning collection, and the Rolex … ContinuedThe post 4 stealth watches to help you fly under the radar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Quill & Pad
Recently Joshua Muchow has become somewhat informed about gemstones and related techniques in studying for the jewelry-heavy Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève categories we discuss annually. This new information has sparked a significant amount of passion for the topic, leaving him wanting to share some of what he's learned about one of the most beautiful sides of haute horology: gems and their settings.
Time+Tide
It seems like every other week there’s a new Casio being unleashed upon the wristwatch-wearing world. And this week is no different, as the Japanese marque has just released this - the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TB. That’s right, there’s now another 5000-series vying for the attention of all you digital devotees out there, and this one’s … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TB appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Horological heavyweight Richard Mille has just unveiled their latest limited edition masterpiece, the Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen, and there’s only one thing we can say … Bwoah! In typical fashion only to be expected of Richard Mille, the RM 50-04 is an incredibly complicated and quite frankly wonderful timepiece, designed for the one … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
As complications go, the RM 50 is the ultimate Richard Mille, combining a tourbillon and split-seconds chronograph. Descended from the RM008 of 2003, one of the brand’s foundational models, the top of the line complication now has now been dressed up in new livery for Finnish Formula 1 driver Kimi Räikkönen, who drives for the Alfa Romeo Racing Team. Launched at the start of the 2019 Singapore Grand Prix, the RM 50-04 Tourbillon Split-Seconds Chronograph Kimi Räikkönen is large, lightweight, and complex, and dressed in a red, white and black colour combination that’s the same as the livery on the Alfa Romeo C38 Formula 1 car. Kimi Räikkönen Though it’s a mass of details and colours, the dial is actually easily to decipher. The two chronograph sub-dials are the six and nine o’clock. The fan-shaped indicator at 11 o’clock is the power reserve, and its mirror image to the right is the torque indicator. This indicates the level of wind in the mainspring, with the ideal being between 53Nmm and 65Nmm; “Nmm” is short for Newton millimetre. And at three o’clock is the power reserve display. Made of various lightweight carbon composites, the watch case is generously sized, like other top of the line Richard Mille complications – 44.5mm in diameter and 16.1mm high. The front and back plates are white Quartz TPT, while the middle is Carbon TPT. Both composites are made by North Thin Ply Technology (NTPT), a Swiss lightweight composite specialist that’s...
Revolution
The Watch – A Twentieth Century Style History serves both the newbie and the seasoned enthusiast; a book you’ll keep at hand for constant referral.
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