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Introducing – A Two-Tone Steel & Gold Parmigiani Tonda PF 36mm with a Deep Ruby Dial Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier Oct 14, 2025

Introducing – A Two-Tone Steel & Gold Parmigiani Tonda PF 36mm with a Deep Ruby Dial

Parmigiani Fleurier, the elite watch brand founded by master restorer and watchmaker Michel Parmigiani in 1996, underwent a management change in 2021 with the appointment of Guido Terreni. Terreni’s roadmap for Parmigiani involved streamlining the collections and focusing on a new collection derived from Michel Parmigiani’s Tonda watch. Released that same year, the Tonda PF is a lineup […]

Audemars Piguet Has Reinvented The Chronograph: What Does It Mean To The Watch World? Fratello
Audemars Piguet Has Reinvented Oct 9, 2025

Audemars Piguet Has Reinvented The Chronograph: What Does It Mean To The Watch World?

Audemars Piguet is celebrating its 150th anniversary by introducing plenty of novelties, and they’re not watches. The brand from Le Brassus is also presenting new movements. The latest perpetual calendars now feature an ingenious crown, for instance, but the biggest news of the year is undoubtedly the launch of the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding […] Visit Audemars Piguet Has Reinvented The Chronograph: What Does It Mean To The Watch World? to read the full article.

Video: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty – A Fresh Take On A 1970s Icon Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty – Oct 7, 2025

Video: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty – A Fresh Take On A 1970s Icon

Let’s start with the name - Laureato. It’s Italian, which we happen to like here at Fratello. Roughly translated, it means “crowned for success” or “crowned with laurels,” a reward once given to winners of sports competitions and, later, to students and artists. In Italy, laurea is also the equivalent of a master’s university degree. […] Visit Video: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty – A Fresh Take On A 1970s Icon to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: AP Reinvents the Chronograph, Big Brands vs. Indies, and VC CEO SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Oct 5, 2025

SJX Podcast: AP Reinvents the Chronograph, Big Brands vs. Indies, and VC CEO

On episode 12 of the SJX Podcast, SJX shares his hands-on impressions of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5, the fifth and final watch from the brand’s R&D; skunkworks. We also address listener questions about the (great) leadership at Vacheron Constantin, and whether brands like A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin can gain market share from independents – why not? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Introducing – The new Cushion-Shaped Voutilainen KV20i Reversed CS Monochrome
Voutilainen Oct 3, 2025

Introducing – The new Cushion-Shaped Voutilainen KV20i Reversed CS

Kari Voutilainen is regarded as one of the greatest independent watchmakers on the scene today. Working from his atelier in Môtiers, Switzerland, the Finnish master watchmaker produces some of the most coveted complications, drawing collectors from near and far to admire his minute repeaters, tourbillons and other in-house delicacies. The latest marvel to emerge from […]

Introducing – New Sector Dials for the Moritz Grossmann Benu Power Reserve Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Oct 2, 2025

Introducing – New Sector Dials for the Moritz Grossmann Benu Power Reserve

Ferdinand Adolph Lange was the founding father of Glashütte’s proud watchmaking tradition, attracting like-minded entrepreneurs and suppliers of parts to the region. One of these was Lange’s good friend, Moritz Grossmann, who set up shop in 1854. Revived in 2008 by Christine Hutter, Moritz Grossmann is admired today for its original, ultra-refined, understated, beautifully crafted […]

Grand Seiko Introduces the SLGB005 “Violet Dawn” Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Introduces Oct 1, 2025

Grand Seiko Introduces the SLGB005 “Violet Dawn”

Earlier this year at Watches & Wonders, Grand Seiko revealed the SLBG003, which turned out to be one of the most impressive watches of the whole show. Housing the new 9RB2 Spring Drive caliber, the UFA (Ultra-Fine Accuracy) movement is certified to an almost incomprehensible +/- 20 seconds per year, or roughly 3 seconds per month. That makes it, according to Grand Seiko, the most accurate movement powered by a mainspring. It’s a truly impressive horological achievement.  Of course, as soon as a brand like Grand Seiko introduces an entirely new platform like the UFA, enthusiasts are on pins and needles waiting to see what comes next. It’s not that we can’t appreciate what we have in front of us, but particularly with Grand Seiko, we know that variants are coming in the form of new dial options and case materials. If you had asked me in the Spring when we’d see the first derivation on the UFA line, I probably wouldn’t have expected to see a new watch so soon, but last week Grand Seiko dropped the Evolution 9 Spring Drive UFA SLGB005, nicknamed the “Violet Dawn” for its deep purple dial. It’s always interesting to see what new watches in a new sub-collection come to pass, not just for what it says about where the line is going, but perhaps where it’s not.  The SLGB005, like its predecessor, is what we’d probably call a small-medium size by today’s standards, measuring a conservative 37mm. Unlike the titanium SLBG003, however, this watch is clad in a st...

First Look – The new Steel and Purple Dial Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ice Forest SLGB005 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ice Sep 25, 2025

First Look – The new Steel and Purple Dial Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ice Forest SLGB005

Earlier this year, at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, Grand Seiko unveiled a new and rather important collection, fitted with a brand new movement and carrying a meaningful name, the Spring Drive UFA. Now, if you’re a GS fan, you’ll immediately spot the connection with the VFA models of the past, as the new Ultra […]

Grand Seiko’s UFA in Steel for the First Time SJX Watches
Grand Seiko s UFA Sep 25, 2025

Grand Seiko’s UFA in Steel for the First Time

Grand Seiko unveils a second model in its Ultra Fine Accuracy (UFA) collection, the Evolution 9 Spring Drive UFA SLGB005. Featuring a violet-black dial inspired by Shinshu winter sunrises and powered by the latest generation spring drive technology, it represents everything Grand Seiko does best. Limited to 1,300 pieces, the 37 mm SLGB005 is made from the brand’s proprietary Ever-Brilliant steel, an especially hard-wearing alloy that’s making its debut in the Evolution 9 Spring Drive line-up. Initial thoughts The Spring Drive UFA SLGB003 “Ice Forest” was arguably one of the most important releases of this year, finally delivering a long-awaited mid-sized Grand Seiko Spring Drive, complete with an adjustable clasp and tightened accuracy rating. The SLGB005 feels like a worthy counterpart in another metal, quantifiably excellent inside and out. The SLGB005 retains the nearly perfect proportions of its titanium sibling at 37 mm in diameter and 11.4 mm thick, in a slightly heavier Ever-Brilliant steel case. Though Grand Seiko has used this material in the past, it’s the first time it’s been used for a Spring Drive watch in Evolution 9 guise, and also the first to be made at Shiojiri. This is a new colour of an existing dial pattern. Grand Seiko’s dial work is always excellent, especially the hands and dial furniture, which are finished to unusually high standards. The Spring Drive movement remains the same and excellent. While not mechanical, I’d argue that Spr...

Ōtsuka Lōtec Debuts the New No. 9, an Experiment in Haute Horology Worn & Wound
Sep 23, 2025

Ōtsuka Lōtec Debuts the New No. 9, an Experiment in Haute Horology

Ōtsuka Lōtec had a viral moment over the weekend with the surprise launch of the No. 9, the latest creation from the Japanese microbrand headed by designer and watchmaker Jiro Katayama. These watches have captured the attention and imagination of enthusiasts worldwide for their unique steampunk aesthetic, filtered through a unique Japanese industrial design perspective. Up until now, their watches have been defined by interesting complications (wandering hours, retrograde displays, etc.) at ultra competitive price points topping out at around $5,000, and being genuinely difficult to obtain outside of Japan thanks to extremely limited production and simply not being offered to en masse to those outside the country. With the No. 9, it certainly appears that Ōtsuka Lōtec will continue to make watches that are tough to obtain, but they’ve thrown the pricing structure out the window with this release, offering up a far more complicated watch than anything they’ve previously attempted.  The No. 9 is a rectangular watch in a stainless steel case measuring 41.3mm by 26.4mm. It’s 10.35mm tall, which makes this a quite compact package, and all the more impressive given the mechanical complexity. Going through the list of features and mechanical complications here is going to be a bit like the Stefon sketch on SNL (“This watch has everything…”) so let’s just embrace it: across 278 components, this watch features a tourbillon, a jump hour, “rewinding minutes,” a...

Meet The New Bell & Ross BR-X3 - A Watch Built For Extremes Fratello
Bell & Ross BR-X3 - Sep 17, 2025

Meet The New Bell & Ross BR-X3 - A Watch Built For Extremes

I have long had a soft spot for Bell & Ross’s X series. The BR-X1 chronographs were some of the most technically ambitious pieces the brand has ever produced, and the BR-X5 models proved that this ultra-modern side of the catalog could also deliver good looks. With that in mind, it was only a matter […] Visit Meet The New Bell & Ross BR-X3 - A Watch Built For Extremes to read the full article.

Introducing – Vacheron Constantin Unveils “The Quest of Time” Astronomical Clock and Watch for 270th Anniversary Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Unveils “The Quest Sep 16, 2025

Introducing – Vacheron Constantin Unveils “The Quest of Time” Astronomical Clock and Watch for 270th Anniversary

Few watchmaking houses can look back on a history spanning 270 years. Marking such an extraordinary milestone requires more than a timepiece; it calls for a creation that embodies heritage, creativity, and mastery. In the frame of its 270th anniversary celebrations, Vacheron Constantin presents an exceptional object – not a watch per se, but a […]

Berneron Complicates Things with the Quantième Annuel (Live Pics) Worn & Wound
Berneron Sep 12, 2025

Berneron Complicates Things with the Quantième Annuel (Live Pics)

The inaugural watch by haute Swiss independent Berneron, the Mirage 38, had a markedly poetic design. With a free-flowing case shape, twisting hands, and a distorted dial, it would be easy to consider it as a design of pure aesthetics. Looks deceived, however, as the form was driven by a movement concept that rejected the standard circular shape, allowing for a large barrel, and thus a 72-hour power reserve in a small and thin body. Nevertheless, the outcome was undoubtedly one of whimsy, where evocative design outweighed pure function, if there was a clever horological backing. Often, brands, especially young ones, stick to a theme to carve a niche for themselves within a crowded industry, but that’s not the approach of Berneron. For the brand’s second model, announced just before Geneva Watch Days, whimsy is nowhere in sight. Instead, the brand made a sharp turn into practicality and legibility, if through a decidedly haute lens. Titled the Quantième Annuel, it has a design that verges on the traditional, especially compared to the Mirage. The first model within their “quantième” collection, which will house their complicated pieces, the QA is an annual calendar jump hour with a design driven by logic in terms of how it is read, the movement architecture, and how it is set. The flow of the dial is meant to be top to bottom, left to right. Following that order, time is read hour, minute, second, and the day, date, and month. The hour is digital, as it is a jump ...

Citizen Celebrates 30 Years of High-End Watches With Paper-Dial Duo SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s Elegante But unlike Sep 12, 2025

Citizen Celebrates 30 Years of High-End Watches With Paper-Dial Duo

Citizen marks 30 years of its up-market The Citizen collection with two limited-edition watches featuring washi paper dials inspired by Japanese nature. Both use solar-powered quartz movements accurate to ±5 seconds per year, housed in titanium cases treated with ultra-hard Duratect coatings. Initial Thoughts Citizen’s somewhat clumsily named The Citizen sub-brand is 30 years old but little known outside Japan and enthusiast circles. Most The Citizen watches are distinguishable by an eagle crest on the dial, as well as their obvious quality. While the line has since grown to include mechanical watches, which are quite good, it remains a quartz-first brand – which is good as its quartz offerings are excellent and amongst the most advanced in the world. While often compared to the Grand Seiko cal. 9F models, The Citizen’s quartz offerings have more functions, and thus have more in common with the three-hand Seiko Astron 3X models, or Casio’s premium G-Shocks. These share solar charging, a perpetual calendar, and a power saving made which pauses the hands to save energy while not in use, like F.P. Journe’s Elegante. But unlike GPS-reliant Astrons and G-Shocks, Citizen’s high end quartz movements are fully autonomous, and accurate to within five seconds per year with a maximum deviation of two seconds per month during normal use. More important still, The Citizen’s traditionally styled offerings are much easier on the eyes than any G-Shock or modern Astron, stri...

To Infinity and Beyond: the Oris x Bamford ProPilot Altimeter ‘Mission Control’ Worn & Wound
Oris x Bamford ProPilot Altimeter Sep 8, 2025

To Infinity and Beyond: the Oris x Bamford ProPilot Altimeter ‘Mission Control’

After reading the requirements from NASA to become an astronaut, I can confidently say that my dreams of going to space anytime soon have been indefinitely paused. There are a few requirements that I just don’t seem to fit. Among them, I need to hold a Master’s degree in a STEM field (I have a bachelor’s degree in Gender Studies); I need to meet a rigorous physical (nothing about me has ever been described as “rigorous”); and you need to have 20/20 vision (not the first time astigmatism has bitten me in the ass). While this realization has come to a shock for me – a man who has never worked out a day in his life and squints to read the McDonald’s drive-through menu – I can say I’m quite comforted in the fact that Oris and Bamford Watch Department have just released their ProPilot Altimeter Mission Control. So if I can’t do the job, I can at least look the part. It’s safe to say that over the last few years, Oris’ stock has continued to rise. Couple that with Bamford’s proven track record to be an ideal collaborator and you have a match made in carbon-fiber composite heaven. For starters, the base watch of this reference is the ProPilot Altimeter, which has the distinct bragging rights of being the only watch in the world to house a Swiss Made automatic mechanical movement alongside a mechanical altimeter. And while this technical skill is undoubtedly what got Oris and Bamford’s proverbial wheels turning, it was the design of the ProPilot which a...

Introducing – The New Louis Moinet 1806 Chronomètre d’Observatoire Monochrome
Louis Moinet Sep 6, 2025

Introducing – The New Louis Moinet 1806 Chronomètre d’Observatoire

The year 1806 marks an important moment in Louis Moinet’s history, when the master watchmaker created a clock for Napoleon Bonaparte, a landmark commission that symbolised both prestige and ambition. It is after this date that the brand names its latest creation, the 1806 Chronomètre d’Observatoire, reaffirming its historic importance and renewing its pursuit of […]

Piaget Introduces New Versions Of The Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon And 910P Fratello
Piaget Introduces New Versions Aug 26, 2025

Piaget Introduces New Versions Of The Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon And 910P

While many brands have focused their efforts on producing smaller watches, it’s nice to see Piaget carrying the banner for thin ones with its Altiplano series. As a longtime producer of wafer-like timepieces, the company continues to push boundaries with innovation. One example includes using the case back as the mainplate to reduce thickness. Today’s […] Visit Piaget Introduces New Versions Of The Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon And 910P to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Chronoswiss Opus Purple Rain, Celebrating 30 Years of The Skeleton Chronograph Monochrome
Chronoswiss Aug 18, 2025

Introducing – The New Chronoswiss Opus Purple Rain, Celebrating 30 Years of The Skeleton Chronograph

When Gerd-Rüdiger Lang (1943–2023) founded Chronoswiss in 1983, his mission was to safeguard and advance mechanical watchmaking at a time when quartz technology threatened to eclipse traditional horology. A master watchmaker, Lang became renowned for pioneering features now considered staples of fine watchmaking, and the openworked mechanical chronograph. In 1995, Chronoswiss launched the Opus, the […]

Introducing – The RGM Model 222-RR Ferguson Railroad Dial is a Genuine Slice of American Railroad History Monochrome
RGM Aug 15, 2025

Introducing – The RGM Model 222-RR Ferguson Railroad Dial is a Genuine Slice of American Railroad History

As the only vertically integrated manufacture in the United States producing components, movements and guilloché dials, RGM is already an anomaly on the American watch scene. Founded by master watchmaker Roland G. Murphy in 1992 in Mount Joy, Pennsylvania, Murphy’s interest in early 20th-century American watchmaking history is reflected in the brand’s railroad watches. The […]

Hands-On With The Majestic Everose Gold Rolex Day-Date 36 With An Olive Green Dial Fratello
Rolex Day-Date 36 Aug 7, 2025

Hands-On With The Majestic Everose Gold Rolex Day-Date 36 With An Olive Green Dial

There is just something inherently different about a Rolex Day-Date. Putting the brand’s top-of-the-line model on your wrist isn’t quite like wearing a gold Daytona or GMT-Master. Why? The obvious answer would be that it’s not a sports watch like the other two. But that’s too easy. The true answer has more to do with […] Visit Hands-On With The Majestic Everose Gold Rolex Day-Date 36 With An Olive Green Dial to read the full article.