Time+Tide
Bucket lists and grail watches: In the blue hour with the new IWC Perpetual Calendar 42
Andrew McUtchen travels to Svalbard with IWC, discovering the Perpetual Calendar 42, the magic of the Arctic, and a fresh life perspective
Results for Monaco, McQueen, and Le Mans (1971)
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Time+Tide
Deployant
Philippe Dufour: A Visit to His Workshop and the LeCoultre Compass Camera
A visit to Philippe Dufour's workshop in Le Solliat, Vallée de Joux, where the master watchmaker shows us his LeCoultre compass camera.
Fratello
Fratello On Air: Sébastien Chaulmontet On Sellita, Albishorn, And Vintage Watches
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, I am alone in the driver’s seat while Mike enjoys his much-deserved birthday time off. Join us in wishing a happy (belated) birthday to “Mike Stockton from London, England.” Instead, we invited our friend Sébastien Chaulmontet, Sellita’s head of innovation and the man behind […] Visit Fratello On Air: Sébastien Chaulmontet On Sellita, Albishorn, And Vintage Watches to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Ralph Lauren Launches New Western Cushions in a Smaller Size, and the New Nautical Collection
Every so often, I find that I need to talk about the watches of Ralph Lauren. It’s possible, I think, that the Ralph Lauren brand is one of the most underrated, misunderstood corners of watchmaking. Most casual and even not-so-casual observers probably assume that Ralph Lauren watches are “fashion watches,” and it makes a certain amount of sense why they’d reach that conclusion. While many of the watches in their collection flirt with the fashion watch moniker, there’s a lot of interesting design and watchmaking happening at the higher end, and I’ve always found it fascinating how their watches complement the extremely established aesthetic of the brand. Ralph Lauren is so omnipresent in culture, the mention of the name immediately conjures something in the mind’s eye, and a lot of the watches do a remarkably good job of reflecting that. Two recent Ralph Lauren releases have caught my eye in the last few weeks, and they’ve flown mostly under the radar to this point, which I think is a shame. First up, the new Nautical collection. These are 42mm stainless steel watches that are not exactly divers or sport watches, but take their inspiration from marine chronometers and other instruments you might encounter on a ship. This is underscored by the weathered brass finish (a PVD treatment) to the case and bracelet. I normally have mixed feelings about the application of faux patina, but I can’t deny that I love the look of a weathered case, apparently whether ...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Calendar - With Diamonds And A Bracelet
"If you build it, they will come." It's the age-old quote about watchmaking, wrapped somewhat curiously in a sentimental movie about baseball, if I'm interpreting things right. A. Lange & Söhne is finally having its overdue moment among collectors for doing what it's always done: making beautiful, mechanically impressive watches with a more traditional, high-touch approach. Sticking with the baseball analogy, it's the Milwaukee Brewers playing old-school small ball and getting into the World Series. Nostalgia hits hard, and the one constant through all the years, Ray, has been watchmaking—or something like that. And yet, when you get down to it, something has been missing from the Lange lineup—a gap for true deep-cut collectors who begged for a certain something that disappeared from the catalog in the late 2000s. People yearned for bracelets, with the word Wellendorff hanging in the air long after the brand ended its partnership with the Pforzheim jewelry maker. When the Lange-loving Hodinkee team saw the new Datograph Perpetual on bracelet, in all its heavy glory, it was an impressive culmination of past and present. "It reminds of us of all that once was good and it could be again." “Wellendorff” Bracelets and the Secondary Market I was recently reminded that my first experience with an A. Lange & Söhne was one on a Wellendorff bracelet. I was attending a local RedBar meet-up when a noted collector of the brand walked up wearing a Datograph Perpetual in platin...
Worn & Wound
The Connection Between Watches and Cars Beyond Racing
There are many crossovers between watches and other spheres, from diving and broader sports to exploration of the skies and outer space. Possibly one of the most poignant and deeply rooted connections is between watches and cars. This link largely traces back to early automobile racing and the need for precise speed and distance calculations. Pocket chronographs with tachymetric scales and specialized dashboard-mounted chronometers became standard equipment. The popularization of the wristwatch went on to evolve this relationship, allowing race car drivers to calculate lap times and average speeds directly on their wrists. This is where we saw the birth of models like the Omega Speedmaster, the Heuer Autavia and Monaco, and the Rolex Daytona. It would be a bit later until we saw the debut of the chronograph we’re here to discuss today – but more on that later.When it comes to cross-industry partnerships, I would go so far as to say the one between watches and car racing is one of the most significant – and lucrative. The Monaco and the Daytona have gone on to bear additional significance because of their wearers, bringing the models out of the racing world itself and into the pop culture zeitgeist with actor Steve McQueen sporting the Monaco in the film Le Mans and actor and racer Paul Newman sporting the Daytona. Thanks to these associations, these models have gone on to achieve millions if not tens of millions of dollars at the auction block, with the Paul Newman D...
Time+Tide
New releases from G-Shock, Renaud Tixier, Armin Strom and more
This week, we kick off with an octagonal Casio and a skeletonised Renaud Tixier; two watches that couldn't be more different if they tried.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Leica’s Latest Collaboration, Fujifilm’s Future Growth, and an Oura Ring Upgrade
Leica Q3 43 Formula 1 Edition It’s no secret that we’re big fans of Leica around these parts and, while I’ve never seen a single race, I think there’s something – dare I say it? – sexy about Formula 1. Combining the two into a new collaboration feels very much up my alley. The first release from the new Leica and Formula 1 partnership is a special-edition Q3 43. Carbon fiber appears on the wireless-charging handgrip, thumb rest and soft-release button, while the body uses a black Microvelour covering inspired by racing steering wheels. Red accents show up on the controls, and the F1 logo appears on both the top plate and lens cap. A co-branded rope strap is included as well. Under the hood, it’s still the Q3 43, with its 60MP full-frame sensor and fixed 43mm f/2 lens. Leica has also created an exclusive Formula 1 Leica Look through its FOTOS app, adding more contrast and saturation for shooting around the track and paddock. The Leica Q3 43 Formula 1 Edition is available now via Leica for the low, low price of $9,950. Fujifilm Expands Instax Production Oh, God, to be a teenager in the early 2000s and discovering Polaroids, 500 Days of Summer and Urban Outfitters. What a time to be ALIVE! While I’ve made a tiny little career for myself by posting photos online, I miss the tactility and charm of a proper instant photo. Well, it seems I’m not alone. Fujifilm just announced another $19 million investment in Instax film production in Japan, with new production ...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: a Vintage Hamilton Masterpiece, Funky Finds from Seiko and Timex, and More
eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Hamilton Masterpiece First up this week is this super clean and sharp vintage Hamilton Masterpiece dress watch. The 33mm yellow gold filled case is crisp and unpolished, with stylish slim lugs. The caseback is engraved with a presentation award for 25 years of service to the Presque Isle company in 1980. The silver dial looks pristine, with applied gold stick markers and lume filled gold dauphine hands. Time only with no date, just clean, simple goodness. The winding crown is original and signed with the Hamilton “H” logo. The manual wind Hamilton caliber 832 movement is clean and runs well per the seller. The watch comes on a stylish leather strap that looks great on it. View auction here Vintage Seiko 5 Actus Here’s a nice chunky vintage Seiko 5 Actus sporty watch. The 41mm round case is unpolished with sharp edges and the original brushed finish. The dial is a silver/champagne color with cool hour markers and unusual hands. They are both steel with black and lume inserts, but the hour hand is really broad, which gives it a somewhat unique look. There is of course the ubiquitous day/date window at three o’clock. The small crown is recessed into the side of the broad...
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Certina DS-3 Super PH1000M, A Ulysse Nardin 'Big Aviator' Pilot's Watch, An Eterna "Majetek," And Much More
There's no way to keep up, Baller. It's true. There's too much to do and too little time, and somehow it's another Friday, and before we relax together and look at some interesting watches available over the next week, let's take some comfort in the fact that, here in the States, two small-market teams are squaring off in the World Series. Incredibly, the Brewers ranked 19th in total payroll for 2026, while the Rays ranked 25th. I bring this up only to note that anything is possible, and huge congrats to fans of both teams. Sure seems like it's gonna be an amazing series. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Boucheron remains available, the Breguet sells today, the IWC Aquatimer passed at auction, and the LIP Paul Newman sold for €820. Strays Photo courtesy of Drouot. Mr Clymer, Mr Wind, and Mr Dunne raised a good point that Jaeger-LeCoultre is still underrated, and while this one's unlikely to be a $1M watch, I can think of a few DuoPlans that look more fetching. For those still seeking a slightly under-the-radar integrated-bracelet sport watch from the 70s and 80s, may I present this Omega 'Alveoles.' Here's a vintage anonymous beauty with an 18k gold case and running seconds at the top rather than the bottom of the dial, and, from the same auction, if there's a better-looking vintage regulator than this Eterna on auction anywhere in the coming week, I haven't seen it. Certina DS-3 Super PH1000M Photo courtesy of The Saleroom. The upcoming Dr Crott auction goes down on ...
Fratello
Video: Hands-On With The Breguet Classique Tourbillon 7357 In Platinum And Gold
On June 26th, 2026, the 225th anniversary of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s tourbillon patent, the Breguet brand introduced several new watches with this mechanism. Today, we focus on two of them — the Classique Tourbillon 7357 in platinum and Breguet gold. Breguet Classique Tourbillon These two watches in precious metal are a revival of the 1989 Breguet […] Visit Video: Hands-On With The Breguet Classique Tourbillon 7357 In Platinum And Gold to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
New Breitling Navitimer B02 Cosmonaute And B09 41mm Chronographs Enter The Core Collection
Space Race cred and racetrack DNA live on in these "modern retro" versions of the aviation icon. More
Hodinkee
Introducing: Breitling Navitimer B09 And B02 Cosmonaute 41mm Chronographs
What We Know In 1952, Breitling released the Navitimer as a tool of necessity for pilots who needed to perform advanced calculations in the cockpit. A decade later, it was adapted for space flight, and the Cosmonaute was born. For many, myself included, this watch is peak, emblematic Breitling, yet until now, the manual-wind versions closest to those originals were mostly limited editions. Now both will join the mainline collection. The Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 and Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute both come in 41mm stainless steel cases with reverse-panda dials, a bidirectional bezel, and a circular slide rule. The B09 is available with a black or blue dial, white rehaut, and subdials, while the Cosmonaute has a black dial with white subdials. Both feature the Twin Jet logo, first introduced in 1957, set in gold, which really pops against the monochromatic dials. The hands, numerals, and indexes are filled with Super-LumiNova. Breitling is well aware of proportions here. It eschews the date window on the B09, and Breitling says that, along with the manual-wind caliber, this gives it a slimmer case profile. Both cases measure 13mm thick and 47 mm lug-to-lug, with a cambered sapphire crystal that is anti-reflective on both sides, a screwed-in sapphire caseback, a non-screw-down crown, and 30 meters of water resistance. Each watch draws on a different chapter of Navitimer history. The B09 is modeled on the 1960s Navitimer worn by Jim Clark and Graham Hill, racing d...
Worn & Wound
To Carry and To Keep: The Tudor Watches of Warriors
“In times of war or uncertainty there is a special breed of warrior ready to answer our nation’s call. A common man with uncommon desire to succeed… I am that man.” –U.S. Navy SEAL Code A Note Writing about the military – especially those who served our nation in the U.S. Armed Forces – is something I consider to be an honor, and it’s a responsibility I take seriously. The risk of sensationalizing or exploiting veteran experiences for media or corporate gain is too great and happens too frequently to leave that acknowledgement unstated. My respect for and personal relationships with the military population sometimes leads me to be overly cautious in my approach to these subjects to protect the privacy of the individuals or the institutions with which they are affiliated. Some experiences are off the record, and that is okay. The spirit of the story remains. I also want to acknowledge that discussions of military history can be divisive. I am a U.S. military historian by training and that shapes how I think and write. But my perspective is just a small percentage of the many globally nuanced lenses that can be applied to this topic. The watch world is international, diverse, and certainly strong enough to withstand the contributions of many – even if our conclusions differ. I am a civilian. After leaving school, I had the good fortune to work as a liaison to the U.S. Office of Veterans Affairs. Because of my educational background, I knew the facts and...
Monochrome
First Look - Tissot Pumps Up and Opens Up the PRX for Damian Lillard
The PRX is one of Tissot’s defining collections, offering an accessible take on the integrated design inspired by the 1970s watches, with contemporary proportions and mechanics. The popular concept takes on a different form with the new PRX Skeleton Damian Lillard Special Edition. Created with the NBA player known as “Dame Time”, this second PRX […]
Hodinkee
The Business of Watches Podcast: Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, Founder And Chief Executive Officer Of Fears
This week on The Business of Watches, we sit down with Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, founder and CEO of Fears Watches, for an in-depth discussion. Nicholas has packed a lot into his 39 years. For the last decade, he's helmed the brand, originally founded in Bristol, England, in 1846 by his great-great-great-grandfather, Edwin Fears. Incredibly, Bowman-Scargill wasn't even aware of the Fears brand and family connection when he decided to train as a watchmaker at Rolex in the U.K. That move into watches followed an ill-timed foray into investment banking on the eve of the 2008 Global Financial Crisis. Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the fourth managing director of Fears Watches. By the time Bowman-Scargill restarted the brand in 2016, it had been dormant for nearly four decades. He says its revival has been an exercise in business challenges, often met by the art of project management, a skill set he and his fellow Brits are uniquely adept at. Fears has now grown to about 15 people and returned to its roots in Bristol. From flirting with bankruptcy to implementing a dress code for employees and overseeing the design and production of a perpetual calendar model, Bowman-Scargill relays the dramatic tale of how the company has survived and thrived in the crowded, competitive arena of mid-tier timepieces. It's a heck of a story that offers heaps of insight for any watch enthusiast, collector, or small business owner. From what he learned and has applied at Fears from his time at...
Fratello
Four New Blacked-Out Certina DS Action Watches: Two 38mm Divers And Two Quartz Chronos
Certina introduces us to four blacked-out DS Action watches. The black-coated steel DS Action Diver 38mm comes in two colorways, with orange or green details. The quartz-powered DS Action Chrono pairs an all-black exterior with either orange or blue accents. Certina found inspiration for the colorways in padel, but all four newcomers still have a […] Visit Four New Blacked-Out Certina DS Action Watches: Two 38mm Divers And Two Quartz Chronos to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Industrial Artisanship and the Paradox of Independence
Independent watchmaking is often discussed as a world apart from the work of major brands. But the distinction becomes less clear when we look at how specific watches are made and who makes them, especially when it comes to artisanal watchmaking within industrial brands. From this perspective, the qualities that once distinguished the work of independent watchmakers are increasingly evident within major brands. Yet historical manufactures remain under-appreciated for exceptional hand finishing, distinctive movement architecture, and small-scale production that would attract considerable attention with an independent’s name on the dial. An objective measure Back in 2022, we published a widely cited market map of the fine watchmaking sector based on the concept of watchmaker-hours. The goal was to look beyond brand positioning and establish an objective, quantitative basis for comparing different approaches to production. The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst is a prime example of small-scale artisanal watchmaking taking place within a larger organisation The methodology was simple: take a company’s available employee hours — essentially the headcount multiplied by the number of hours in the working year — and divide it by its total output, in terms of watches per year. The result is a theoretical maximum number of human hours available for each watch. The cal. 31-260 inside the Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P typifies the industrial-haut...
Fratello
Harnessing Heritage: The Lebois & Co Numeral, Baton, And Script Small Seconds
As we’ve come to expect, Lebois & Co revives mid-century designs with care. The brand now offers its Heritage Small Seconds models in three new interpretations. Each draws from a different moment in the company’s past. Moreover, the Numeral, Baton, and Script share the same refined case and COSC-certified movement. This allows collectors to choose […] Visit Harnessing Heritage: The Lebois & Co Numeral, Baton, And Script Small Seconds to read the full article.
Fratello
The New Hermès Cape Cod In Titanium - A Dressy, Feminine Watch Turned Sporty And Masculine
This March, I helped organize and attended a Watch Discovery at the Hermès boutique in Amsterdam. Of course, the sporty H08 and the Arceau in various configurations were there. I was also pleasantly surprised by the skeletonized Slim d’Hermès. However, the watch that really stuck with me was the Hermès Cape Cod. Its unusual shape […] Visit The New Hermès Cape Cod In Titanium — A Dressy, Feminine Watch Turned Sporty And Masculine to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Hublot Founder Carlo Crocco on the birth of fusion, royal customers and the return of his original design
Hublot Founder Carlo Crocco reflects on the risks that shaped the brand and why its first watch still matters
Time+Tide
New releases from Biver, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Svea Atelier and more
From Biver's first steel watch to the MB&F; LM1 EVO and Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo, catch up on the biggest new watch releases of the week
Time+Tide
Yema, Depancel and Reservoir: three French automotive watch brands doing things differently
Yema, Depancel and Reservoir explore three distinct takes on the automotive watch, from racing chronographs to dashboard-inspired displays.
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Breguet's Breguet, A LIP Chronograph, An IWC Aquatimer, And A Boucheron Carree
It's a big world out there, Baller, full of seductive objects to pursue beyond watches. In the course of finding stuff to fill out BAL each week, I come across delights galore, and it feels essential to pass along that, should you have an excess of time and money and a dearth of memorabilia, there's a full auction of items from Paul Reubens (aka Pee Wee Herman), titled, appropriately enough, Paul Reubens' Big Auction, and yes, there's a bike. Scorekeeping last weeks picks, the Orvis Solunagraph auctions next Thursday and the LIP Mach 2000 later today. The Patek 5107 sold for €13,500, and the Omega DeVille Emerald sold for $650. Strays Photo courtesy of Drouot. Your affordable vintage diver of the week is from that least-loved of brands, Invicta. Yes, Invicta is a punchline now, but their vintage stuff can offer surprises. Here's Alan Bean's personal BA 145.022-69, for all you space cadets, and here's a trio of early electronic Wittnauers that will be 'fun' for someone, depending on how capacious their definition of fun is, given that the watches are listed as not currently running. This gold chronograph from Juvenia felt, on first seeing it, like the most charming watch I'd find this week, but then there's this incredible Zenith purse watch, which takes the cake charm-wise. For all you Pogue heads (the watch/astronaut, not the band), neither of these are 'true' pogues, in that they're both 6139-6002s, but both look great, and Seiko 6139s are great fun. Finally, I covered...
SJX Watches
The Biver AB is Time Only and All Quality
Having found critical and commercial success with the Automatique, Biver is continuing with the time-only format, but (slightly) more accessibly. The Biver AB is a manual-wind, three-hand watch, but keeping to the high-end approach of the Automatique. The presentation is discreet but precious. While the dial and movement are solid gold, the case and bracelet are steel. The bracelet is notable for being the same as that found on the Automatique, and is arguably amongst the best in class. Initial thoughts I am a fan of the Biver Automatique and was a little sceptical of the idea of a more accessible time-only watch. The AB, however, surprised on the upside. Like the Automatique, it is executed extremely well. The dial, for example, is an extremely fancy interpretation of the “sector” dial, rendered in onyx and yellow gold. The bracelet adds to the appeal significantly as well. It’s essentially the same bracelet found on the Automatique, but in steel. The facetted links are impressively finished, and more importantly, sit comfortably on the wrist. Pulling off a bracelet that is both functional and finely done is an achievement in itself. That this is standard kit for the watch adds to the appeal. The movement is a little less elaborate than that in the Automatique, but remains tangibly high end; it even has a grande sonnerie-style winding click. All the details are attended to, with bonus decorative flourishes here and there. Though a three-hander, the movement is fairl...
Time+Tide
Hublot’s next big move, Grand Seiko’s design secrets, and Serica’s unexpected partnership
Hublot’s next chapter, Grand Seiko’s design philosophy, and Serica’s unexpected Peugeot collaboration headline this week’s watch news.
Monochrome
First Look - Hermès Brightens the Glass Fibre H08 with White and Blue Editions
Hermès introduced the H08 collection in 2021 as a different take on the sporty-chic watch, first launched as a time-and-date series, then updated with a monopusher chronograph and, more recently, a skeleton model. The H08 stands out for its rounded square case, original Arabic numerals on the dial, and a mix of surfaces and materials […]
Monochrome
Portrait - Miyota, The Engine Behind the Watch, And The Rise of the Japanese Movement Maker
For more than four decades, Miyota has been quietly powering watches from brands around the world. As the watch industry evolves, however, the movement manufacturer is increasingly stepping into the spotlight – highlighting not only its technical expertise and manufacturing capabilities, but also the role movements play in the identity, reliability and long-term value of […]
Hodinkee
The Business of Watches Podcast: The Organizers Behind The Escapement In Las Vegas And Why They Think It's Time For A New Kind Of Watch Show
Is there room for another watch show? Is there demand? Is Las Vegas the ideal place to bring thousands of watch collectors together for a weekend of horological-themed fun, discussion, and entertainment? The folks behind The Escapement are saying an emphatic yes to all of the above. They're putting on a new watch event in Las Vegas in 2027 running February 5-7, and they believe collectors and enthusiasts are primed for a fresh, in-depth, and upgraded take on the watch meetup. Texas-based Neeshu Hajra is an enthusiastic watch collector who has decades of experience in the events business. Now located in the Middle East, Faheem Khan spent most of his career in the energy industry in London and now writes and curates the popular watch-, philosophy-, and psychology-driven Substack blog ScrewDownCrown. He's also the irreverent voice behind @kingflum on Instagram. Together, they're planning and organizing The Escapement with help from a few other big names in the industry that we dive into during the episode. Image courtesy The Escapement We discuss what makes meetups work and why they had to pull plans to hold the inaugural edition of the event in Abu Dhabi and move to a more conventional location in Vegas, where they hope to attract some 5,000 general admission ticket buyers and 750 VIP ticket clients. There's been some skepticism from industry naysayers as to the need and potential of the event. WatchPro's editor said the original gathering planned for Abu Dhabi gave...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Hermès H08 Bleu de Malte And Blanc Chantilly
What We Know Hermès has released two new versions of its H08 sports watch. It feels like the H08 has lived a lot of lives in the five years since it was originally released at Watches & Wonders 2021, and these latest releases bring yet another new look to a line that has expanded pretty steadily since then. Here, we have two new versions of the H08, each in a braided glass fiber composite case, but where previous watches that have used this material have coated it in a dark blend of aluminum and slate, with these new watches, Hermès has dropped the slate dust. The result is a lighter, brighter finish, complemented by ceramic accents in either bright blue or white. The blue watch also comes equipped with a rhodium-plated, "crystal sandblasted" textured dial, with blue details matching the ceramic bezel, while the white watch has a lacquered white dial. Each has details in Hermès' signature orange. Beyond the new finish and color, these are largely the H08 as we have come to know it, with a cushion-shaped 39mm x 39mm case, rubber strap, and Hermès' hallmark rounded numerals, and are powered by the automatic Hermès Manufacture movement H1837, a movement created exclusively for Hermès by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. Prices for each of these new versions of the H08 sit at $8,600. What We Think This is a pretty straightforward case of a new colorway, but a new colorway done extremely well. The H08 has existed in a funny position for Hermès since its release half a decade...