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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo 10th Anniversary Limited Editions Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo 10th Anniversary Mar 22, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo 10th Anniversary Limited Editions

Consumers in this day and age are all too familiar with the finished products of watch manufacturers thanks to digital watch media, whether from publications such as ours, social media, or forums. But, it is not always the case that consumers are offered a final product that leverages the origins of its design. To celebrate … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo 10th Anniversary Limited Editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bulgari Marks 10 Years of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo with “Pencil Sketch” Dials SJX Watches
Bulgari Marks 10 Years Mar 21, 2022

Bulgari Marks 10 Years of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo with “Pencil Sketch” Dials

Perhaps Bulgari’s signature men’s wristwatch, the Octo Finissimo is an ultra-thin wristwatch that has spawned a range of watches and variety of complications, including a perpetual calendar and minute repeater. Now the Italian jeweller marks a decade of its bestseller with a pair of limited editions that pay tribute to the original design – literally. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic 10th Anniversary and Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic 10th Anniversary both feature “pencil sketch” dials that essentially reproduce the initial drawings of both models penned by Fabrizio Buonamass Stigliani, the design chief at Bulgari’s watch division. Initial thoughts The twin anniversary editions are only modest tweaks on the standard design, but accompanied by equally modest price differences, which makes them appealing alternatives for someone who likes the monochromatic look of the standard models but wants a little extra. The “sketch” dials are clever and amusing, though not entirely new since similar drawing-inspired dials have been done in the past by Nomos and Fortis. Still, they have a whimsical appeal. Price-wise, the two anniversary editions aren’t much more than the standard models. The automatic is €800 extra, while the chronograph actually costs the same as the standard version. Being identical to the standard models in size and material, both anniversary editions will feel the same on the wrist, light and sleek. I fin...

Review: the new The Longines Legend Diver in Gray Deployant
Longines Legend Diver Mar 19, 2022

Review: the new The Longines Legend Diver in Gray

Longines have often produced interesting pieces for its Heritage collection, and the new Legend Diver is no exception. The new gray colored dial comes as an addition to the growing colorways namely blue, beige and burgundy of the model. It gives fans of the LLD more options to choose from, without deviating from the iconic design of the watch. The watch is priced at S$3,590.00.

HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds stands out in the sea of green Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Mar 16, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds stands out in the sea of green

Jaeger-LeCoultre are seemingly incapable of producing a watch that doesn’t melt the hearts and wallets of watch enthusiasts worldwide, as they have proven again with the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in a glowing green. The watch comes in three dial colours with matching straps including deep blue and luscious burgundy, but this green machine … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds stands out in the sea of green appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Formula 1 Season Preview – The teams and their watch sponsors (Part One) Time+Tide
Mar 16, 2022

Formula 1 Season Preview – The teams and their watch sponsors (Part One)

All bets are off for the 2022 Formula 1 season, with sweeping regulation changes that promise to shake up the pecking order that we’ve all grown so tired of over the last eight years. The big names will always have an advantage when it comes to funding and organisational streamlining, but with a strict budget … ContinuedThe post Formula 1 Season Preview – The teams and their watch sponsors (Part One) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tissot Introduces the PRX Chronograph Valjoux SJX Watches
Tissot Introduces Mar 11, 2022

Tissot Introduces the PRX Chronograph Valjoux

Originally a late seventies model that was relaunched in 2021, the Tissot PRX was unsurprisingly a smash hit, largely because it is one of the most accessible Swiss-made watches with an integrated bracelet. And now Tissot has elaborated upon the design with the PRX Chronograph Valjoux. Initial thoughts The PRX Chronograph is a logical but attractive iteration of the original idea. The angular case and bracelet that characterise the PRX are perfect in a larger size with a sporty, contrast-register dial. More notably, Tissot made the smart choice of moving away from the typical (and sometimes boring) black and white for the “panda” and “reverse panda” dials, instead opting for more striking combinations – particularly the silver dial with gold markers. While the construction of the base-model PRX is simple, the chronograph gets more interesting as there is more real estate for details. The stepped, rectangular pushers, for instance, are especially attractive because they echo the case shape, while also having slight bevelling along the edges that add a bit of visual refinement. While the design appealing, it’s weighed down by the case thickness, which is almost 15 mm. That said, given the case is wide at 42 mm in diameter, it has good-enough proportions. Another nit to pick is the awkward position of the date, but that can only be fixed with a much smaller case (or much larger movement), both of which are not viable at this price point. The PRX Chronograph are pr...

Why the revamp of the Omega Speedmaster ’57 collection is an evolution in all the right ways Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster ’57 collection Mar 10, 2022

Why the revamp of the Omega Speedmaster ’57 collection is an evolution in all the right ways

I’ve always had a crush on the dual register Omega Speedmaster ’57 collection. The design felt modern and sleek while I also appreciated the date complication that was added. Furthermore, Omega still managed to fit a 12-hour counter on the watch. It truly was a match made in heaven until I got to the specifications. … ContinuedThe post Why the revamp of the Omega Speedmaster ’57 collection is an evolution in all the right ways appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date Reed Green delivers more than your typical diver Time+Tide
Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date Reed Mar 9, 2022

The new Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date Reed Green delivers more than your typical diver

The diver’s category, pun alert, is already saturated in the watch marketplace. Many of their design cues are quite fixed, as in order to be appealing, as well as meet the demands of the segment, they have to offer certain visual cues and functionality. But, leave it to the Germans to engineer a diver that … ContinuedThe post The new Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date Reed Green delivers more than your typical diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Ming 22.01 GMT may be your best shot at getting your hands on this hot independent Time+Tide
Ming Mar 9, 2022

The Ming 22.01 GMT may be your best shot at getting your hands on this hot independent

I’m going to be honest with you. The appeal of independent watch brands has grown in my day-to-day involvement with this hobby. The chance of owning something unique, with a recognizable design language and quality construction gets harder and harder to say no to. Yet, with these brands currently at the forefront of watchmaking, the … ContinuedThe post The Ming 22.01 GMT may be your best shot at getting your hands on this hot independent appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Kross Studio Introduces the Batman Tourbillon SJX Watches
Mar 3, 2022

Kross Studio Introduces the Batman Tourbillon

A start-up that focuses on design and watchmaking, Kross Studio was founded in 2020 but has already rolled out several pop culture-themed watches, including a desk clock in the form of the Batmobile from 1989’s Batman as well as a tourbillon wristwatch modelled the Death Star from Star Wars. Timed to debut just before the premiere of the latest Batman movie, the Batman Tourbillon once again relies on the central tourbillon movement that Kross has used in its past editions, but restyles the tourbillon cage to resemble the “Bat Signal” searchlight. Initial thoughts As was the case with Kross’ earlier watches, the Batman Tourbillon excels in terms of design. Though the brand has launched different editions with the same case and movement, the Batman watch is unique in style and theme. The tourbillon cage, for instance, has been transformed into a distress signal made famous by the “Caped Crusader”. And while the earlier Death Star Tourbillon was equipped with conventional hands, the Batman watch does away with  traditional hands, rendering the it much more futuristic. That said, the Batman theme gets in the way of the movement. The Bat Signal frame that sits over the tourbillon obscures an otherwise interesting, oversized central tourbillon. This compromise would be more acceptable if the cage was more figurative and decorative as on the Death Star Tourbillon – where the cage is shaped like the titular planetary laser – which would have made the dial more aes...

Silence Is Complicity: How The #WatchFam Is Standing Behind Ukraine Quill & Pad
Mar 3, 2022

Silence Is Complicity: How The #WatchFam Is Standing Behind Ukraine

Over the last few days, Dan-Andrei Kluska has watched the news in horror. He has lost sleep, he has cried a lot, and he feels that he has been paralyzed by the eruption of war in Europe. After the first shock wave passed and his tears dried, he started to think about the future and was sincerely fearful because a nuclear war would wipe out humanity as we know it. Here he challenges us all to do something (and some have answered the call).

INTRODUCING: The tiny modification to the Longines Spirit 37 collection that make the watches even better Time+Tide
Longines Spirit 37 collection Mar 2, 2022

INTRODUCING: The tiny modification to the Longines Spirit 37 collection that make the watches even better

When the Longines Spirit collection originally dropped, perfection was on everybody’s mind. The design was fresh enough to be exciting, yet familiar enough to feel as though we’d all been thinking about these watches for years already. The details were impeccable, the specifications were all there, and they just looked fantastic, but there was one … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The tiny modification to the Longines Spirit 37 collection that make the watches even better appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS ON: The NOMOS Tangente neomatik platinum grey is a monochrome twist on Bauhaus style Time+Tide
Nomos Tangente neomatik platinum grey Feb 24, 2022

HANDS ON: The NOMOS Tangente neomatik platinum grey is a monochrome twist on Bauhaus style

Synonymous with high quality and original design, NOMOS serves up an update to one of their most emphatically Bauhaus designs. This pairing of Tangente models showcases the new platinum grey dial colour, which adds welcome variety to the line-up of mostly white and blue offerings thus far. Tangente – Bauhaus personified Famously conceived by Walter … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The NOMOS Tangente neomatik platinum grey is a monochrome twist on Bauhaus style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Has Baume & Mercier dropped the most interesting dial of the year so far? Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Feb 22, 2022

Has Baume & Mercier dropped the most interesting dial of the year so far?

Watchmaking is an art. This is part of the appeal that mechanical timepieces have for buyers around the world, persuading them to forego more accurate or logical options such as a smartwatch or smartphone. Hardcore watch enthusiasts, when asked about the art of watchmaking, will likely steer the conversation towards movement design – their level … ContinuedThe post Has Baume & Mercier dropped the most interesting dial of the year so far? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback 60th Anniversary DLC Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback 60th Feb 20, 2022

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback 60th Anniversary DLC

With the introduction of the new TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback Chronograph 60th Anniversary Silver dial, the brand bought back a classic design to one of its most storied lines. This alone would have been enough for TAG Heuer fans. However, they didn’t stop there. Instead, they doubled down on the design to give us … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback 60th Anniversary DLC appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Abraham-Louis Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No. 1836, dated 1807: Touched (Perhaps) By The Hand Of The Horological God, I’m Jaded No Longer – Reprise Quill & Pad
Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No Feb 20, 2022

Abraham-Louis Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No. 1836, dated 1807: Touched (Perhaps) By The Hand Of The Horological God, I’m Jaded No Longer – Reprise

This Breguet souscription pocket watch number 1836 was created just after the French Revolution in 1796 and was sold in 1807 for £600. A testament to the quality of the movement’s design and the skill of its watchmaker, after more than 200 years it still runs impeccably today, which makes it the perfect role model for Breguet's modern Tradition line. But what relationship does Ian have to it?

VIDEO: The 5 best gold watches of the last 12 months Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay 58 Feb 12, 2022

VIDEO: The 5 best gold watches of the last 12 months

Warm, glowing, and oozing a charming luxury, who doesn’t love a cracking gold watch? Regardless of the tone or colour, whether it’s red, pink or even white, there’s just something special about its heft and lustre. Here are 5 of the best gold watches from this year. 1. Tudor Black Bay 58 in 18K Gold … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The 5 best gold watches of the last 12 months appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith x Revolution & The Rake strike back with an “Airweight” titanium take on the wildly popular “Cover Girl” Time+Tide
Zenith x Revolution & Feb 10, 2022

Zenith x Revolution & The Rake strike back with an “Airweight” titanium take on the wildly popular “Cover Girl”

Zenith has been on a real hot-streak as of late, coming in strong for LVMH Watch Week with some very intriguing pieces such as the Defy Revival A3642, Defy Skyline collection, and Defy 21 Chroma among others. Whether heritage revivals, or next-generation collections, Zenith with each design continues to attract today’s buyers with their creations. While … ContinuedThe post Zenith x Revolution & The Rake strike back with an “Airweight” titanium take on the wildly popular “Cover Girl” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Havid Nagan Debuts with the Clean and Geometric HN00 SJX Watches
Havid Nagan Feb 9, 2022

Havid Nagan Debuts with the Clean and Geometric HN00

After two years of development, Havid Nagan has finally made its debut with the HN00 Titanium. An unusually well-honed design for the inaugural watch of a brand that originated on Kickstarter, the HN00 combines an original case with an attractive guilloche dial, as well as a respectable micro-rotor movement. The genesis of Havid Nagan lay in its founder Aren Bazerkanian’s goal of producing a relatively accessible watch that incorporates elements typically found in pricier timepieces. So Mr Bazerkanian launched a modest Kickstarter campaign in 2019 to fund the prototyping process. Initial thoughts The HN00 is notable for managing a fairly original design that contains thoughtful details. Most impressive is the barleycorn guilloche dial covered in glossy, lacquer that mimics enamel. While the pattern is common, the HN00 dial is especially fine, especially around the centre of the dial where the grain converges and diminishes in size. Importantly, the dial has done away with superfluous elements such as a date or seconds hand, which presents the guilloche in all its glory. Even with the proliferation of the cushion-shaped case, the squarish case of the HN00 stands on its own. It avoids calling to mind watches from the likes of Panerai or Patek Philippe. The dimensions of the case are restrained, though it does feel a bit on the thick because neither the bezel nor the case back are sloped, while the case middle is tall, resulting in substantial verticality. At US$8...

Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono: Run, Don’t Walk, It’s The Best Value Swiss Made Automatic Chronograph Of The Year Quill & Pad
Feb 3, 2022

Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono: Run, Don’t Walk, It’s The Best Value Swiss Made Automatic Chronograph Of The Year

Every time Ian Skellern writes the words “relatively affordable” here on Quill & Pad, he braces himself for the stream of comments reminding him that he must live in an alternative reality to most of the world. So he doesn't describe the Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono as relatively affordable (though compared to most of the watches we review on Quill & Pad he thinks it well merits that description), but he does think that it’s fantastic value and the bargain of the year. And here he explains why.

HYT Returns with the Hastroid SJX Watches
Montblanc Mr Cerrato has applied Feb 1, 2022

HYT Returns with the Hastroid

Having been the first – and still the only – watchmaker to use liquid to display the time, HYT went bust last year, having struggled for several years after its 2012 debut. But now the brand is making a comeback with Davide Cerrato at the helm. The inaugural watch of the reborn HYT is the Hastroid Green Nebula that is dressed in brand’s familiar livery of lime green and black. Best known for being the design chief at first Tudor and then Montblanc, Mr Cerrato has applied his brand of Italian aesthetics to HYT, preserving its signature style while streamlining and downsizing the watches. Still large, but slightly thinner and definitely sleeker, the Hastroid continues the familiar formula found on most previous HYT watches – hours are indicated by a retrograde fluid indicator within a glass tube, while two large bellows are responsible for pumping the fluid indicator back and forth. Initial thoughts I was sceptical when I first heard that HYT was back from the dead, but knowing that Mr Cerrato is leading the charge certainly increases the odds of success. He did a stellar job shaping the visual identities of both Tudor and Montblanc – both of which still have the same house style today – and has certainly refined the HYT wristwatch while retaining its familiar feel. The Having seen a resin mockup of the Hastroid, I can attest to the fact that the watch is more compact and slightly more wearable than a first-generation HYT. At the same time, Mr Cerrato has given...