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Monochrome
Scrolling through Arnold & Son’s portfolio reveals a neat mix of classical watchmaking codes and contemporary touches across all collections. One of the finest examples is the DSTB 42, which reveals its jumping seconds mechanism smack-bang on the dial. That’s also the reasoning behind its name, by the way, as DSTB refers to Dial Side […]
SJX Watches
The accessibly priced, MB&F;-adjacent wristwatch returns as the M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’, a collaboration with Yinka Ilori, a British designer known for applying bright colors to furniture, architecture, and interiors. With three kaleidoscopic colourways – Sun, Nature, and Water – the new M.A.D.1S leans into the maximalist trends of the day, which suits the M.A.D.Editions sub-brand, and MB&F; in general, like a glove. Initial Thoughts I’m reminded of the H. Moser & Cie. Elements of Time we covered just last week. Like with those, the M.A.D.1S ‘Grow Your Dreams’ is a series of thematic, limited edition collaborations sold via online raffle. And of the flavours on offer here, my favourite is again the Water variant. Collaborations like this can often feel like a one-way street, but that doesn’t feel like the case here. It’s good to know Yinka Ilori was an active participant in the watch’s design, personally designing the stylised numerals on the hour cylinder. I’ll also point out Mr Ilori is the model in all of these wrist shots. As for my thoughts on his work, I own some tableware he designed a few years back – which sits in my cupboard, seldom used but often admired. “Water” The M.A.D.1 series in general are dubious as a value proposition; though they are very affordable for an MB&F;-ish watch, they are pricey for the segment. But that misses the point – few are cross shopping these with similarly priced offerings from Tudor or Longines, or ev...
Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex has made many lasting contributions to the world of watchmaking since its foundation in 1905, not the least of which has been an array of massively popular and widely emulated bracelet designs. Here we take a close look at every type of Rolex bracelet, what makes it special, and which Rolex watches, if any, are using them today. Rolex Oyster Bracelet Rolex’s iconic Oyster bracelet is the template from which many other three-link bracelet styles have been drawn. Its name comes from its association with the Oyster case - introduced by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf in 1926, and the most water-resistant watch case that had been made up to that point - and for which the original version of this bracelet served as an extension. Oyster bracelets are recognizable for their wide center links bordered by thinner end-links. Rolex patented the design in 1947 and fitted one on a watch in 1948. In the early versions, the links were riveted; these were phased out in favor of a “folding” style in 1967, which eventually gave way to the modern, solid-link style in 1975. Oyster bracelets come equipped with the accompanying Oysterlock clasp, a triple-deployant metal clasp with a safety-lock mechanism. Three-link bracelets like the Oyster and its various descendants are particularly popular on sports watches and dive watches, and this bracelet appears, as you’d expect on most of Rolex’s most popular “professional” models, including the Submariner, GMT-Master II, Explorer,...
Quill & Pad
Color has always been a very important part of the M.A.D.Editions collection, but these new models by British-Nigerian artist/designer Yinka Ilori take color to a whole new level. These watches may have been inspired by nature, but rarely does nature look this vibrant . . . or this crazy!
Monochrome
The worthy successor of the 222 model (which is still made by the brand as part of the Historiques Collection), the Overseas has been Vacheron Constantin‘s vision of the luxury sports watch, a model made to compete with the two other icons of the genre, the Royal Oak and the Nautilus. The current Overseas, which […]
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SJX Watches
Appointed to the top job at Breguet just under a year ago, Gregory Kissling trained as a movement constructor and spent most of his career leading Omega’s product development. A native of the Vallee de Joux, Mr Kissling is now in charge of one of the most revered names in watchmaking, which this year celebrates its 250th year. Aided by his background in product and long tenure at Swatch Group, the parent of Breguet, Mr Kissling is off to a running start. He has already made his mark with anniversary editions like the Classic Souscription, a simple but smart creation I rate highly, and holds ambitions to elevate the brand to where it should be. He was recently in Singapore to open Breguet’s new boutique in Ion Orchard, a mall on the city’s premier shopping street, and I got my first face-to-face with him since he assumed the role. We discussed his plans for the brand founded by Abraham-Louis Breguet, ranging from an increased emphasis on artisanal craft, to Breguet design, and even one-off or custom watches. The interview was edited for length and clarity. SJX: You have one of the most interesting and exciting jobs in the Swiss watch industry; you have taken over one of its greatest brands. Gregory Kissling (GK): It is a fantastic brand and every day I learn something new [about its history]. The heritage and legacy are immense. And also the fact that Breguet has a true manufacture – we produce everything in house but also thanks to the sister company of Swatch Grou...
Teddy Baldassarre
Solar watches are an eco-friendly alternative to traditional quartz watches with lithium battery-powered movements. Watches with solar-powered movements still maintain the accuracy and reliability of quartz technology, which makes them much more precise than any mechanical watch. Here's a brief history of solar technology in watchmaking and a selection of notable solar watches on sale now. Solar Watch Technology - A Brief History In the late 1960s, the Swiss watch industry was on the precipice of a technical revolution that would ultimately threaten the very existence of traditional mechanical watchmaking while simultaneously ushering in the dawn of mass-produced electronic watches. By the 1970s, quartz movements had won out over a handful of other early technological approaches to producing electronic watches (you can delve a bit more into that history here), giving rise to the era now known known within the industry as the Quartz Crisis. Experiments with using solar power to charge watches, however, go all the way back to the '60s, to the development of the first solar-powered movement by American engineer Roger Riehl. This technology was introduced to the market in 1972, with the first prototype called the “Synchronar” and the first production piece, the Synchronar 2100, released later that same year. Priced at nearly $500 (about $3,200 in today's money), the Synchronar 2100 was considered something of a luxury product and struggled to compete in...
Worn & Wound
There are two kinds of tool watches out there. There are the tool watches we typically think of: sporty, rugged types, often divers or field watches, that can take a beating. And then there is the other type of tool watches, which are simply watches that resemble tools. No, not in the human sense, but rather technical items like gauges and other instruments. Germany’s LÖBNER’s current watches firmly fit in the latter category, though they are not unwelcome in the former. Founded in 1862, LÖBNER specialized in precision timing equipment, such as stopwatches that could time to 1/100th of a second, as well as military chronoscopes that went all the way to 1/1000th of a second. They were a timekeeper at the Olympic Games, and worked closely with motorsports. The brand ceased operation in 1944 and was revived in 2023 with the launch of both three-hand and chronograph models. Designed by Emmanuel Dietrich, also of the eponymous brand Dietrich, for its relaunch, LÖBNER set out to create luxury timepieces that speak to this heritage while pursuing a distinct personality through a strict design language and novel functionality. The resulting models, a three-hander with an internal bezel called Sledge and a chronograph called Steelracer, feature angular integrated bracelet designs and dials with a graphic sensibility. LÖBNER was kind enough to send both over to check out, though for the sake of brevity, this review focuses on the Steelracer chronograph. Featuring an integrat...
Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot is one of the world's largest Swiss watchmakers and can look back on a rich history upon which it is still building today. In the modern era, Tissot is widely known for its large and diverse portfolio of watches, which ranges from dressy to sporty to high-tech, for its high-profile sports timing presence, and for its incredible value for the money. But there is a lot more that you may not know about Tissot and its many contributions to watchmaking history. Here, we delve into the highlights and tackle the easily answerable question of "are Tissot watches good?". (And if you're interested in learning more about particular Tissot Watches that are available now, check out our companion article on the Best Tissot Watches for Men.) Tissot’s Watchmaking Milestones Began in 1853 Tissot is one of the oldest watch manufacturers in the world, tracing its history back to 1853. Its founders were the father-son watchmaking team of Charles-Félicien and Charles-Émile Tissot, who turned their home in the Swiss Jura town of Le Locle, where the company remains headquartered today, into a small factory. By 1858, the family firm had gained a major foothold in Tsarist Russia, which became the largest market for the savonette pocket watches that were its specialty at the time. (At one point, Charles-Émile’s son, Charles Tissot, the third generation of the Tissot family to join the business, moved to Moscow to open an office there.) Tissot is recognized as the producer of the first...
Teddy Baldassarre
At Watches & Wonders 2025, Tudor expanded its existing catalog to address some fan requests as well as to reset some long neglected collections. One release that does both is the new Black Bay Pro with a silver opaline dial. This is a configuration long requested from enthusiasts, and Tudor did the idea justice by getting the small details right. This is more than a mere dial swap, even if the underlying platform remains largely the same. This is the kind of methodical evolution we’ve come to expect from Tudor, though in some ways, the new Black Bay Pro plays things a little too safe. Let’s take a quick look back at Tudor’s recent history with the GMT complication to set some context for the newest Black Bay Pro, because - while this configuration has been highly requested - as far as fan requests go, this watch has one glaring omission. Tudor released the Black Bay GMT back in 2018 with a black dial and a throwback red-and-blue aluminum bezel. As popular as the watch was right off the bat, the size made it a tough pill to swallow for some, particularly the thickness of the case paired with the relatively flat sidewall. Tudor Black Bay Pro Case Tudor partially addressed this with the release of the first Black Bay Pro in 2022 in a 39mm steel case. The watch also played up ties to the Rolex Explorer II with a fixed steel bezel. It was an unexpected release but it hit many of the right notes, and it made the substantial thickness a bit easier to stomach. It wor...
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WatchAdvice
As always, Rolex represents the highest possible standard of the watchmaking world – but does this new 1908 model uphold this illustrious reputation? Let’s find out! What We Love: A perfectly executed contemporary design Extremely well-built and highly wearable Surprising value proposition, even among similar pieces What We Don’t: Clasp feels unnecessarily long Scratch and smudge magnet Movement finishing – Too little, too late? Overall Rating: 9.5/10 Value for Money: 10/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 9/10 When it comes to watches, there are plenty of uncomfortable truths one must face. They’re hardly life-or-death scenarios, sure — but within the world we navigate as enthusiasts, there are a few pills that are undeniably hard to swallow. Some are classics, like how quartz movements are just as relevant to the industry as mechanical ones, or the ever-lingering question of how much cultural impact wristwatches still hold. But there’s one truth in particular that keeps many a watch lover up at night, clutching their favourite timepiece and hiding under the covers. That truth, of course, is this: Rolex is the greatest watch brand of all time. Naturally, there are plenty of valid, subjective counters to that claim. I, for one, would argue that Casio belongs on the same playing field simply because of its cultural popularity and accessibility. But when you look at the data, the case for Rolex is practically airtight. According to Morgan Stan...
SJX Watches
Omega continues its trickle of summer releases with the Aqua Terra 150M Turquoise, which has its smoked turquoise dial now matched with a black ceramic bezel for a cohesive look. Available in both 38 mm and 41 mm formats, the new Aqua Terra is pricier and arguably less versatile than the standard Aqua Terra, yet is strongly appealing – is the blue worth the green? Initial Thoughts The ceramic mania that gripped the industry a few years ago has cooled, but the material is here to stay, and this example is all the better for it. We’ve already seen this dial on a pair of bracelet-borne Aqua Terra earlier this year. Now it’s back with an integrated rubber strap and complementary black ceramic bezel. Even though this lacks the bracelet of the all-steel version, it’s more expensive, priced at about US$1,000 over the steel model on a bracelet. The retail price of US$7,300 is still affordable, and acceptable given the level of quality, but the value proposition is less clear. While the Aqua Terra’s boardwalk-to-boardroom versatility makes it a prime candidate for someone’s sole, “go anywhere, do anything” watch, the exotic colour palette and lack of a bracelet rule it out as such for most people. Instead, I imagine Omega is targeting brand fans who are less price-sensitive looking for a summer watch. Even for an owner of more than one Omega, the new Aqua Terra is different enough to make it interesting. Deja Blue While no longer novel, the fume turquoise dial rema...
Teddy Baldassarre
Here’s the headline: this summer, the namesake and flagbearer of the Glashütte watchmaking region, Glashütte Original, has opened its own, dedicated dial manufacture. You might be asking yourself, “I thought G.O. already did everything in-house, what’s the deal?” And while you would be right to ask, the basis of the question is also correct. Glashütte Original, while owned by Swatch Group, does, in fact, “do everything in-house,” or to be more specific: 95% of everything. However, up to this point, the dials for G.O. watches were made in a facility six hours away in Pforzheim. This move has brought production to a 5,000-plus-square-foot facility that is just a quick float down the babbling Muglitz River - 450 meters, to be exact. In a market where collectors are placing increasing importance on “in-house” everything, this is a big move for a company that has been preaching the Homemade Gospel from the Saxon hilltops for decades. Not only does this allow for more agile production timelines, but it increases G.O.’s production capabilities as a whole. G.O. brought me to Germany to see the new facility and to tour the full manufacture as well. In addition to the photos here, which won’t tell the full story, we also have a full video touring the manufacture. This sort of care for detail and attention to craftsmanship is deeply ingrained in the region, and in Glashütte Original as a brand. The people at this manufacture take the namesake very seriously...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet (AP) has just announced a majority stake in Inhotec, a supplier of components for high-end mechanical movements. Long a supplier to AP, Inhotec produces parts ranging from base plates to springs, in both raw and fully decorated states. The value of the deal was not revealed, but founder Alexandre Eme will retain a minority stake and continue to serve as chief executive of Inhotec, which was founded in 2011. According to the announcement, AP will “provide strategic and financial support” while leaving Inhotec to retain “operational autonomy” over “managerial decisions, industrial activities and commercial relationships”. Lucas Raggi, the chief industrial officer of AP, explains the acquisition “is about consolidating key strategic skills and supporting the continuity of an expertise that is essential to the future of haute horlogerie“. AP’s acquisition of Inhotec reflects two trends. One is the longstanding and continued development of AP’s production capabilities, exemplified by the recent inauguration of the expansive Arc manufacture in Le Brassus. The other is macro, a slowdown in business for specialised suppliers across the watchmaking value chain.
Monochrome
Long considered a low-end production site for accessible timepieces (which is still partially true), the Chinese watch industry is fast changing and evolving in a positive direction. Besides industry giants such as Peacock and Seagull (the latter capable of making split-second chronographs), there’s a burgeoning indie scene that needs to be explored. We can name […]
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Fratello
This year marks the 80th anniversary of the Datejust, which, according to my colleague Gerard, is “the mother of all modern wristwatches.” And I don’t disagree. When Rolex introduced this watch in 1945, it set a new direction for the company, and many other brands followed (much later). A wristwatch for everyday use, with a […] Visit Here’s Why The Rolex Datejust 16234 Ticks All The Boxes to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Longines Legend Diver is one of the brand’s most popular and lauded vintage-inspired watches due to its distinct style and tremendous value for money. The original Legend Diver that serves as the template for the contemporary iterations is the Super Compressor Diver Ref. 7042 that was launched back in 1959. In 2007, Longines debuted the Heritage Revival, which was a faithful reissue that was followed up with a date-window version in 2009. Fast forward to 2017 and Longines began to expand this collection to include options like a Milanese bracelet as well as a 36mm iteration to join the existing 42mm model. Then in 2023, we saw the Longines Legend Diver debut in a 39mm wide case that serves as the template for the white-dial iteration I review here. Of course, this is a truncated version of the Longines Legend Diver story, and you can read the full version by our resident historian Mark Bernardo here. There are currently eight dial-color variations in the Longines Legend Diver family: beige, black, blue, brown, green, grey, orange, and white, which is the most recent and the one I am going to get into here. If I had to pick a favorite, it might actually be the orange, which is more of a muted terra cotta that looks just excellent. That said, the white-dial model introduced earlier this year is a sleeper diver that stays with you long after you first see it. It’s not too difficult to nail a watch when you’ve mastered dial color techniques the way Longines has, but ...
Fratello
The mighty Rolex Datejust turns 80 this year. That makes it one of the longest continually produced watches out there, which is no small feat. At Fratello, we intend to celebrate with a series of articles on the model, and today it’s my turn to choose my all-time favorite. That’s not an easy task, though. […] Visit My Favorite Rolex Datejust Doesn’t Exist Yet - But These References Come Quite Close to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Does the Datejust take the Rolex crown?The post Change my mind: the modern Rolex Datejust is the best option in the brand’s current catalogue (now with video!) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Melancholy can be described as a gentle sadness that feels good due to its connection to nostalgia, self-reflection, and the appreciation of beauty - in art and music, for instance, as well as in watches. The feeling of melancholy typically emerges in adolescence or early adulthood, which spans from the late teens to the mid-30s. […] Visit I Want To Go Back To The ’90s - Who’s Coming With Me To Find Great Watches? to read the full article.
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Monochrome
What defines something as an icon is generally down to the public’s perspective of its significance. It can be anything, really, as long as it stands for something extraordinary. In watchmaking, we have a fair few of them that we regularly celebrate. Think of watches like the Seiko Speedtimer 6139, which was among the very […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The Bulova Jet Star is one of those watches that leaves no room for doubt as to the decade from which its distinctive design originates. Revived in 2023 to commemorate the original's 50th anniversary, in a trio of diverse colorways, all the modern Jet Star models vibe “‘70s throwback” in a major way, with their unconventional, turtle-shaped cases and boldly colorful dials. However, they’re also very avant-garde in ways that their predecessors simply weren’t able to be, particularly in their use of Bulova’s high-frequency Precisionist calibers, their elevated level of finishing, and the almost three-dimensional degradé effect enhancing their dials. Scroll down for a closer look at each of the 50th anniversary Bulova Jet Star watches. Bulova Jet Star Case And Bracelet The modern Jet Star case is more angular and multifaceted than the curvilinear “turtle” shape of its 1970s predecessor. Strictly speaking, the case is octagonally shaped and topped with a round bezel that hugs the domed sapphire crystal. Measuring 40mm in diameter, approximately 45mm lug to lug, and 12.5mm thick, it boasts an array of polished and brushed finishes that accentuate those multiple, subtle edges and surfaces and lend the Jet Star an air of luxury in addition to its unmistakable retro charm. The lugs themselves are relatively short, with a 20mm lug width to accommodate the bracelet (on the two steel versions) or strap (on the gold-tone model and the steel limited edition). The crown...
SJX Watches
Bulgari has just opened Beyond Time in Singapore, which takes place in Paragon Mall from July 18 to August 10, 2025 and is open to the public daily. An exhibition dedicated to the brand’s watches and jewelled timepieces, Beyond Time also marks the launch of the Octo Roma Worldtimer SG60, a limited edition only for Singapore. The exhibition includes the record setting Octo Finissimo complications – some of the thinnest wristwatches ever made – as well as a watchmaking “masterclass” led by a watchmaker from Bulgari’s Neuchâtel manufacture. Singapore National Day The event coincides with Singapore’s 60th year of independence on August 9. For the occasion, Bulgari has created the Octo Roma Worldtimer SG60, a limited edition accented in white and red, the national colours of Singapore, with a case in black DLC-coated steel. Other goodies specific to Singapore’s National Day weekend include postcards by Singaporean artists, and personalised poetry verses. The Octo Roma Worldtimer SG60 is delivered on a pair of straps in red and black Located on the ground floor of the mall, the B-shaped exhibition space is inspired by the work of German architect Mies van der Rohe and his close collaborator, designer Lilly Reich. The exhibits are organised thematically, with the Serpenti and Octo collections each having a space of their own, but the complicated watches are the centrepiece. The complicated watch display showcases the brand’s accomplishments in pushing the bound...
Monochrome
Armin Strom first introduced the System 78 series model, the Orbit, in 2022, which became the world’s first watch with an on-demand date display integrated into a ceramic bezel. The original version featured a mostly monochromatic look, a steel case and a black gold dial, accented only by the red date pointer tip and matching […]
Fratello
Another week, another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we pit two mid-segment dive watches against each other. Although…”mid-segment”? Both brands have crept up in price, putting us in the €6,000–7,500 bracket today. Is that still mid-segment? Whatever you wish to call it, these are two very different watches doing very similar things at a similar […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Pelagos Ultra Vs. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “Orange” to read the full article.
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