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The Latest “Chroma” Release from Zenith Has Arrived Worn & Wound
Zenith Has Arrived Anyone who Dec 3, 2025

The Latest “Chroma” Release from Zenith Has Arrived

Anyone who reads this site on a regular basis already knows that I can’t resist a Zenith Defy. I’ve long claimed the Defy collection is the great overlooked sports watch line in watchmaking, offering an unparalleled mix of creativity, robustness, and history that no large brand can compete with. It’s evident throughout the collection, even in the most run of the mill, bare bones Defys that Zenith makes. They are inherently weird when you consider the case shapes, styling, and high frequency movements. It’s no surprise, though, that as you get into the higher tiers of the Defy lineup, things get stranger and cooler, and that’s what we have here today with the new Defy Extreme Chroma Limited Editions.  We return to the Defy Extreme, the most exotic take on the Defy, for the second time in less than a month. These Chroma executions are admittedly a bit less “extreme” in some ways than the lapis lazuli accented edition we told you about in November, but they’re honestly probably a little better for it. The Chroma concept is not new for Zenith – it allows them to play with color in a very specific way, using a spectrum of bright colors across a very busy dial to great effect. The Defy 21 chronograph received the Chroma treatment last, but now it’s the Extreme’s turn in two limited edition variants: a blacked out titanium as well as a lighter version in titanium and white ceramic.  These watches exist, effectively, as two sides of the same coin, with the ...

Ensemble Debut: The Cavasino Inaugural Tourbillon FT60-S SJX Watches
Bulgari focused Dec 3, 2025

Ensemble Debut: The Cavasino Inaugural Tourbillon FT60-S

Cavasino makes its debut with the Inaugural Tourbillon FT60, a compact flying-tourbillon wristwatch that reflects the industrial engineering background of its founder, Didier Cavasino. Before establishing his eponymous brand, Mr Cavasino spent more than a decade at Rolex working on the industrialisation of new projects, followed by a leadership role at Bulgari focused on process optimisation. That experience informs both the FT60’s ensemble execution and supports the brand’s vision, which emphasises modern manufacturing methods and traditional haute horlogerie craftsmanship in equal measure. Initial thoughts Cavasino is a new brand making its debut with a deceptively intricate flying tourbillon. An engineer by training with dual degrees from École Nationale Supérieure d’Arts et Métiers (ENSAM) and Karlsruhe Institute of Technology (KIT), founder Didier Cavasino entered the watchmaking industry through industrial engineering roles, including more than a decade at Rolex working on the industrialisation of new projects. From there, he moved on to Bulgari where he led a team of 20 people focused primarily on process optimisation and continuous improvement. This background contrasts with the bench training that is more typical among up-and-coming independent watchmakers, but it’s this industrial orientation that makes Mr Cavasino’s plan to produce and deliver 15-20 pieces per year seem quite feasible. While it’s unreasonable to expect to fully derive a new brand...

Piaget Polo Review: How The '80s Luxury Watch Icon Holds Up Teddy Baldassarre
Piaget Dec 1, 2025

Piaget Polo Review: How The '80s Luxury Watch Icon Holds Up

While it’s more widely known for its jewelry these days, Piaget, founded in the small Swiss village of La Cote-aux-Fées by Georges Piaget in 1874, has been a watchmaker from the beginning. Its original trade, in fact, was making movements, and the company began making complete watches in In the 20th century. Before getting into the Piaget Polo, it's worth it to get into the brand's history in thin watchmaking. Since 1957, when Piaget created the historic 2mm-thick Caliber 9P, the company has been world renowned for the elegant thinness of its watches and movements. The world’s thinnest self-winding mechanical movement, Caliber 12P, followed Caliber 9P just three years later, in 1960, and Piaget has building upon these foundations ever since. Its most recent triumph in this area was the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, which debuted in 2018 as a prototype and hit the market in 2020; the entire watch, case and movement, is just 2mm thick, matching the wafer thinness of the original Caliber 9P. Along with Bulgari, another watchmaker known more for its jewelry, Piaget continues to embody the ne plus ultra of what ultra-thin watchmaking can accomplish.  [toc-section heading="The Integrated Bracelet Era Begins"] However, while “thin and elegant” remains the calling card of the Piaget watch brand overall, the market was looking for something a little different - a little bolder, perhaps - in the 1970s. Audemars Piguet had introduced its groundbreaking Royal Oak “Jumbo...

The Greatest Horological Masterpieces of All Time: Breguet’s Marie Antoinette Watch and Its Impact on Horology Worn & Wound
Breguet s Marie Antoinette Watch Nov 25, 2025

The Greatest Horological Masterpieces of All Time: Breguet’s Marie Antoinette Watch and Its Impact on Horology

A series of features identifying the most extraordinary mechanical masterpieces in history, blending precision, innovation, and craftsmanship. We all have our favourite timepieces either in our collection or those incredible horological masterpieces that have been invented or created through the ages. This series will showcase examples from the previous centuries up to the present day and look at the importance and impact on modern day timekeeping. Few watches in history have captivated the world quite like Breguet No. 160, often referred to as the Marie Antoinette Watch. Commissioned in 1783, this masterpiece of horology was intended as the ultimate expression of luxury, precision, and mechanical complexity. Crafted by Abraham-Louis Breguet, the legendary Swiss watchmaker, it would take over 44 years to complete, long after Marie Antoinette’s tragic execution and Breguet’s death. Marie Antoinette was an Austrian princess and the wife of King Louis XVI. Born on the 2nd November 1755 in Vienna, Austria, she was the 15th child of Empress Maria Theresa of Austria and Emperor Francis I, Holy Roman Emperor. She grew up in the lavish Schönbrunn Palace centre of the court of Vienna, surrounded by wealth, music, and political intrigue. Marie Antoinette with a Rose. Elisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun, 1783. Oil on Canvas. Image courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art The Palace of Versailles was a major site of scientific thinking in the 17th and 18th centuries. It hos...

First Look – The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 3SPC for Seddiqi’s 75th Anniversary Monochrome
Ferdinand Berthoud Nov 22, 2025

First Look – The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronometre FB 3SPC for Seddiqi’s 75th Anniversary

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud marks a significant moment in its modern history, with the release of the Chronomètre FB 3SPC Seddiqi 75th Anniversary. A three-piece platinum edition created for the 75th anniversary of Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the influential Dubai retailer and one of the manufacture’s first partners when the brand was revived in 2015. The […]

Audemars Piguet Brings Innovation To Dubai Watch Week With The Intelligent Watch Box Fratello
Audemars Piguet Brings Innovation Nov 20, 2025

Audemars Piguet Brings Innovation To Dubai Watch Week With The Intelligent Watch Box

Dubai Watch Week has built a reputation for giving brands the freedom to do more than show new watches, and Audemars Piguet has taken full advantage of that. The House of Wonders exhibition forms the core of its presence this year. It is a traveling setup that blends history, design, and the landscapes of the […] Visit Audemars Piguet Brings Innovation To Dubai Watch Week With The Intelligent Watch Box to read the full article.

Oris ProPilot Date Review: The Big Crown ProPilot Evolved Teddy Baldassarre
Oris Nov 19, 2025

Oris ProPilot Date Review: The Big Crown ProPilot Evolved

The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Date has a prestigious history starting with the founding of the independent Swiss brand that makes it. Oris began making watches in 1904, when it was founded in Hölstein, Switzerland, by Paul Cattin and Georges Christian, who named the company after a nearby brook. A maker of pocket watches and, by 1925, the increasingly popular wristwatches, Oris enjoyed a long period of growth and expansion throughout the following decades and even made its own movements. Losing its independence during the consolidation years of the Quartz Crisis, Oris regained it in the 1980s, when a management buyout transformed the company and solidified its mission to make only mechanical watches going forward. Today, Oris has become a staple for value-conscious collectors of Swiss-made watches, particularly sport-oriented models. Among the brand’s modern pillars are the dressy Big Crown Pointer Date and the more aviation-centric Big Crown ProPilot, which trace their existence all the way back to 1938. That year marked the launch of the first Oris watch dubbed “Big Crown,” named after its signature element, an oversized, fluted winding crown meant to be easy to grasp and to operate by a pilot wearing heavy gloves. The modern edition of the Big Crown ProPilot debuted in 2014 (example above), notably adding what is today one of its signature features: a knurled bezel that resembles a jet turbine.  Oris has revamped, tweaked, and added complications to the original, ...

Heavyweight Revival: The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Platinum SJX Watches
Daniel Roth Nov 19, 2025

Heavyweight Revival: The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Platinum

Daniel Roth continues its thoughtful return with the Tourbillon Platinum, a contemporary take on the brand’s signature double-ellipse design. While the design remains faithful to the original, the latest version elevates every element, from the crisp pinstripe guilloche to the slightly thinner case. The first platinum model in the brand’s recent history, the watch features the same purpose-built DR001 movement we’ve seen previously, which encapsulates the blend of traditional craft and contemporary styling that defines the brand. Initial thoughts The rebirth of Daniel Roth under the aegis of La Fabrique du Temps (LFT) is something that I’ve followed with interest. With a team led by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, contemporaries and friends of Mr Roth, LFT has pulled off the rare feat of a remake that, at least in a tangible sense, exceeds the original. While the romance of a founder-led operation is impossible to fully replicate, it’s difficult to point to any single aspect of the Tourbillon Platinum that isn’t substantively improved compared to the original C187 of 1988. This speaks to the vast resources of LFT, which was able to design a form movement from the ground up to fit the brand’s supremely elegant double-ellipse case. This bespoke development cycle differs from what Mr Roth had to deal with when he became the first independent watchmaker to produce a tourbillon wristwatch in series. By starting over from scratch, LFT was able to produce a thinn...

Tornek-Rayville Review: The Collectible Military Dive Watch Reborn Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 17, 2025

Tornek-Rayville Review: The Collectible Military Dive Watch Reborn

The story of Tornek-Rayville is one that represents a significant chapter in both watchmaking and military history, from the earliest purpose-built watches for divers in the 1950s up to the re-emergence of the cult-classic brand (in a notably new form) in the 21st Century. And it begins with the development of the world’s first modern dive watch: the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. [toc-section heading="Blancpain Fifty Fathoms History"] Founded in 1735 in Villeret, Switzerland, Blancpain is the oldest luxury watchmaker in the world, but its most famous timepiece in this modern era began its life as a tool watch for military divers in the (relatively) recent year of 1953. Jean-Jacques Fiechter, who headed Blancpain at the time, was an avid diving enthusiast who had long wanted to develop a watch that would be ideal for his hobby. Fiechter worked with Captain Robert Maloubier, a French naval officer, to design a reliable, mission-ready timepiece that Maloubier’s elite combat diving team could wear. The watch’s 42mm steel case - exceptionally large for the time - was water-resistant to 91.45 meters, or 50 fathoms, the maximum depth recommended for scuba divers. Its dial was black and its numerals were luminescent for greater legibility underwater.  It was the first divers’ watch with a self-winding movement, the first with an antimagnetic case, and the first to employ the patented, double-sealed crown that Fiechter had developed. Most notably, the Fifty Fathoms was the ...

The Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Gets a Wild Lume Treatment with the New Lumiere Edition Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Gets Nov 14, 2025

The Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto Gets a Wild Lume Treatment with the New Lumiere Edition

The Bel Canto, in its relatively short history, has proven to be a surprisingly versatile watch in the way it can wear different colors and accents. That’s a little surprising when you consider the fixed nature of the exposed chiming mechanism and the way this elements dominates the look of the watch. But color and especially texture can take the Bel Canto completely different directions, conjuring both contemporary “indie” aesthetics as well as something much more classical. The latest version of Christopher Ward’s C1 Bel Canto now dons the “Lumiere” designation that we first saw a year ago in the C60 Trident. Lume was a big part of the story with that C60 Trident, but it wasn’t the whole story as it is with the new Bel Canto, which here sees its most radical reinvention to date.  Obviously, this is one for the folks who are never without a high powered flashlight in their EDC. The C1 Bel Canto Lumiere is the most exotic interpretation of the platform yet. It’s built around a platine with a sunray pattern that is intricately coated with two shades of luminescent material. This effectively lights the “dial” of the watch from behind, and below the chiming mechanism. The time-telling ring is now a solid circle of high powered Globolight lume, where the current time is read with lume tipped hands. There are no numerals or indices on this Globolight ring, and I’m sure some will balk at the fact that we now just have an approximation of the time to refere...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 36 Vs. Grand Seiko SLGB005 Fratello
Grand Seiko SLGB005 Yes it’s Nov 9, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 36 Vs. Grand Seiko SLGB005

Yes, it’s that time again - time for another Sunday Morning Showdown! This week, we picked two technologically impressive watches. The first is the Rolex Land-Dweller, which debuted during Watches and Wonders in April of this year. The Land-Dweller will go up against the Grand Seiko SLGB005 that was introduced in September of this year. […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 36 Vs. Grand Seiko SLGB005 to read the full article.

In-Depth – 1.85mm… How Did Bulgari Create the World’s Thinnest Tourbillon Watch? Monochrome
Bulgari Create Nov 7, 2025

In-Depth – 1.85mm… How Did Bulgari Create the World’s Thinnest Tourbillon Watch?

At this point in watchmaking history, we can say, without taking too many risks, that Bulgari has become the undisputed master of ultra-thin horology. Breaking one record after another, the Italian/Swiss manufacture has been at the forefront of creativity and ingenuity, and while we are undoubtedly in a golden age of the ultra-thin watch, with […]

Introducing – A Smooth Bezel on a Hanhart…? Meet the New 417 ES Mocha Flyback Date Monochrome
Nov 6, 2025

Introducing – A Smooth Bezel on a Hanhart…? Meet the New 417 ES Mocha Flyback Date

Hanhart’s roots run deep in the history of mechanical chronographs. Founded in 1882 in Germany’s Black Forest, Hanhart became a mid-20th-century reference for timing instruments. Its stopwatches and pilot chronographs set benchmarks for robustness, legibility, and ergonomics, a legacy carried forward by today’s collections, most notably, the 417 ES. First developed for the German armed […]

Seiko SPB149 Review: The Blue Dial Prospex Diver Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Nov 3, 2025

Seiko SPB149 Review: The Blue Dial Prospex Diver

An outsized part of Seiko’s history is within its dive watch heritage, going all the way back to 1965 with the company's first dedicated diver, the 150-meter 62MAS, released as the 6217-8000, and later, its larger-crowned sibling, the 6217-8001. It was the beginning of a lineage that went on to include legendary references like the Willard, the Turtle, the Marinemaster, the Tuna, and the SKX, just to name a small assortment of them. Today, Seiko’s broad dive-watch lineup is well-known for its rugged dependability: from the entry-level Prospex models to the elevated Luxe variants like the Seiko SPB149, there’s a Seiko diver for every enthusiast. Seiko has paid tribute to the 62MAS design in the past with limited editions, but in the 2020s, the brand has seen a slew of regular-production, and short-lived models – like the SPB143, 239, and 149, which stand as the most faithful renderings of the 62MAS, characterized by the brand as the Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s Watch. Although this model family came with different dial variants at its 40.5mm case size, today, we’re going to showcase the discontinued SPB149 before looking at the current production SPB143 and other modern day options which continue the 62MAS legacy. We will go through the standard points of its case, wear, dial, and movement, and then share concluding remarks about its overall legacy in 2025.  Seiko SPB149 Context In Spring of 2020, Seiko dropped a quartet of watches - the SPB143, SPB145, SPB1...

The Quest: Vacheron Constantin’s 270th-Anniversary Exhibition At Harrods, London Fratello
Vacheron Constantin s 270th-Anniversary Exhibition Oct 30, 2025

The Quest: Vacheron Constantin’s 270th-Anniversary Exhibition At Harrods, London

Within the opulence of Harrods’ luxury London department store is a joyous journey through Vacheron Constantin’s eclectic history. Even by the northeastern entrance is a suspended forced-perspective Maltese Cross with “270” emblazoned upon it. This represents 270 years of Vacheron Constantin’s continuous operation, the longest of any watch brand. Winding through the halls of Harrods […] Visit The Quest: Vacheron Constantin’s 270th-Anniversary Exhibition At Harrods, London to read the full article.

"Are Citizen Watches Good?" In-Depth With The Japanese Brand Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Oct 28, 2025

"Are Citizen Watches Good?" In-Depth With The Japanese Brand

How much do you really know about Citizen Watches, the tough and stylish Promaster collection, the proprietary Eco-Drive technology, and other signature innovations of the Japanese brand, like the exclusive Super Titanium and the recent series of automatic calibers in the luxurious Series 8 models? In this article, we explore the history of Citizen Watch Company from its founding to the modern day and spotlight a dozen notable watches in today’s Citizen collection that have caught the attention of the Teddy Baldassarre team. By the end, you should be much closer to answering the question of whether Citizen watches are good-quality and whether they're for you.  Citizen History and Early Milestones With its very high-tech lineup and avant-garde designs, one might be inclined to think Citizen Watch Company is a relatively new player on the worldwide watch scene. One would be mistaken, however. The company today known as Citizen traces its roots all the way back to 1918, when it was founded as the Shokosha Watch Research Institute by Kamakechi Yamazaki. The name “Citizen” first appeared on the dial of a pocket watch that Shokosha produced in 1924; it is believed to have been suggested by Yamazaki’s close friend Shinpei Goto, then the mayor of Tokyo, who believed such a watch should be universally appealing and accessible to all “citizens” of Japan. Shokosha merged with the Schmid company, a Japan-based manufacturing firm founded by expatriate Swiss watchmaker Rodo...

The Best Cartier Watches For Ladies Teddy Baldassarre
Cartier Oct 27, 2025

The Best Cartier Watches For Ladies

Cartier is a household name, easily crossing the threshold from watch insider (or luxury-object insider) to fully accepted in the broader cultural zeitgeist as a sort of “things dreams are made of” aspirational fare. If Rolex is the man’s peak piece of horological wanting, then by goodness, Cartier occupies an equal space in the minds of women watch buyers. Here we will go through some of the best Cartier ladies' watches. (Yes, of course there are plenty of women who look to Rolex the same way a man does, and vice versa with men and Cartier. The two brands stand shoulder to shoulder as perhaps the most recognizable names in the game.) To achieve the status of being labeled influential in watchmaking is one thing. Very few reach the rarified air of transcending the category altogether. Considering that watches are one of a very few pieces of physical "jewelry" that a man can wear, it’s remarkable that Cartier has been able to carve out a place of legitimate watch enthusiasm for the woman buyer who has far more choices in the category. Granted, Cartier operates in space beyond just watches, unlike the aforementioned Rolex.  Cartier History Becoming the most recognizable name, along with Rolex, in the watch industry, is a feat that Cartier didn’t accomplish overnight.  The luxury jewelry house was founded back in 1847 in Paris, France, by Louis-François Cartier. However, Cartier's rapid ascension as a watchmaker and jeweler came during the third generation of fam...

The Greatest Horological Masterpieces of All Time: the Harrison H4 – A Groundbreaking Timepiece That Solved The Longitude Problem Worn & Wound
Oct 27, 2025

The Greatest Horological Masterpieces of All Time: the Harrison H4 – A Groundbreaking Timepiece That Solved The Longitude Problem

A series of features identifying the most extraordinary mechanical masterpieces in history, blending precision, innovation, and craftsmanship. We all have our favourite timepieces either in our collection or those incredible horological masterpieces that have been invented or created through the ages. This series will showcase examples from the previous centuries up to the present day and look at the importance and impact on modern day timekeeping.  John Harrison’s H4 Chronometer was a groundbreaking timepiece that solved the longitude problem, a major challenge for navigation during the 18th century. Before Harrison’s work, sailors had no reliable way to determine their precise east-west position at sea, leading to deadly navigation errors. The British government, through the Longitude Act of 1714, offered a large prize to anyone who could develop a practical solution. Sir Cloudesley Shovell, by Michael Dahl, about 1702-5 (L); The Association with the Eagle, Rumney and the Firebrand, Lost on the Rocks of Scilly, October 22, 1707 (R). Image courtesy of the © National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London The Catalyst for the Longitude Act In the early 18th century, determining longitude at sea was one of the greatest challenges in navigation. While sailors could measure latitude using the position of the sun or stars, longitude required precise timekeeping-something that was nearly impossible with the unreliable clocks of the time. The inability to determ...

Fratello’s Top 5 Titanium Watches Of Recent Years - Featuring Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith, And More Fratello
Grand Seiko Zenith Oct 24, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Titanium Watches Of Recent Years - Featuring Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith, And More

Another Friday, another list! This week, we’re following up last week’s article about ceramic watches with our favorite titanium ones. After all, it just made sense to dive deeper into the world of modern materials used for watches. While titanium has been around for quite a few decades in the watch world, it’s still considered […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Titanium Watches Of Recent Years - Featuring Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith, And More to read the full article.

Christopher Ward Introduces the C63 Sealander Extreme GMT Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces Oct 23, 2025

Christopher Ward Introduces the C63 Sealander Extreme GMT

Just about a year ago, Christopher Ward released the C60 Trident Lumiere, a dive watch that impressed all of us here at Worn & Wound with its styling, bold lume, and easy wearability. Today, they’ve announced what amounts to a spiritual successor to that watch, and a natural evolution of it, the C63 Sealander GMT. With the new C63 Sealander GMT, Christopher Ward has made their version of a no compromises adventure watch in the vein of Rolex Explorers, Omega Planet Oceans, and the like, with, of course, the practicality of a GMT. If you were intrigued by last year’s Trident Lumiere but are after something that’s maybe a bit more tied to land (or air), the C63 Sealander Extreme GMT might be of interest.  It all starts with a 41mm stainless steel case with Christopher Ward’s signature “light catcher” finishing elements, found most prominently along the lugs. Two dial variants are available at launch, a simple black and a military green, both with grained, matte finishes to bolster the tool watch nature of the piece. Each version features a fixed ceramic bezel in black with a 24 hour scale.  But the real star of the show here is the impressive lume treatment on the dial. Once again, Christopher Ward has tapped their partners at Xenoprint, just steps away from their facility in Biel, to create bold blocks of lume to enhance dial legibility, both during the day and at night. The markers, hands, and even the brand’s logo are made up of solid blocks of Globolight l...

Zenith Chronomaster Sport Review: The Modern El Primero Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Oct 15, 2025

Zenith Chronomaster Sport Review: The Modern El Primero

The Zenith Chronomaster Sport debuted back in 2021 and has evolved into one of the brand’s most compelling contemporary chronographs (and that’s saying a lot for Zenith). There was a lot of initial chatter about some similarities to the Rolex Daytona because the collection debuted with a panda and reverse panda dial model with ceramic bezel and, while the comparisons are certainly valid, it does warrant a reminder that the Daytona indeed used to be El Primero-powered. Earlier in 2025, Zenith went all out on the blue theme at this year’s Watches & Wonders in celebration of its 160th anniversary. The star of the show may have been the return of the Caliber 135 in the G.F.J. (see more on that one right here), but the supporting releases didn’t hold back either, boasting bright blue ceramic cases and bracelets. Together, this trio of watches comprise the Zenith 160th anniversary collection, touching on each of the cornerstones of the brand’s modern architecture. The watch I am going to focus on here is the Zenith Chronomaster Sport rendered nearly in its entirety in blue ceramic, showcasing a very different side of the brand’s most popular modern chronograph. Zenith Chronomaster Sport Context The Chronomaster collection has been around since 1994, building on the rather illustrious history of precision timing (outlined in more detail right here) that Zenith is known for. In 2021, Zenith found its modern stride with the release of the Chronomaster Sport with a blac...