Hodinkee
Introducing: Grand Seiko's Evolution 9 Collection Gets Sporty (Live Pics & Pricing)
Two new Spring Drive GMTs, ref. SBGE283 and SBGE285, advance the company's new design language.
Results for Monaco, McQueen, and Le Mans (1971)
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Hodinkee
Introducing: The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G Combines Two Patek Signature Complications
Patek's latest take on the travel time complication is crisp, clear and clean.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Rolex Air-King Ref. 126900
Now with crown guards and lumed applied numerals.
Revolution
Designing Perfection at Parmigiani Fleurier
For Watches and Wonders 2022, Parmigiani expands its Tonda PF collection with innovative new models
Time+Tide
WATCHES & WONDERS: TAG Heuer follow up LVMH Watch Week with a whole lot more
Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders is the biggest watch fair of the year and, with nearly 40 brands presenting, there is a ton of ground to cover. So for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: TAG Heuer follow up LVMH Watch Week with a whole lot more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
WATCHES & WONDERS: Vacheron Constantin 2022 novelties overview
Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders is the biggest watch fair of the year, and, with nearly 40 brands presenting, there is a ton of ground to cover. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: Vacheron Constantin 2022 novelties overview appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Pro
Tudor finally introduces a more compact GMT watch with the Black Bay Pro, which is 39 mm and equipped with a fixed bezel. With slightly retro styling, the Black Bay Pro nonetheless has all the features that characterise Tudor, including a proprietary movement with a silicon hairspring as well as the newly-developed T-Fit micro-adjustment clasp. Initial thoughts The Black Bay Pro is what I have been hoping for, a more compact Tudor GMT. It has a 39 mm case just like the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, the perfect size in my estimation. And it has a true GMT function thanks to the MT5652 inside. It also sports a useful upgrade: the T-Fit clasp that allows for micro-adjustment on the fly, giving this a feature usually found on pricier watches. The aesthetic certainly beings to mind the Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655, which is a good thing (and it was probably designed with a knowing wink). Arguably the only downside is the case thickness. At 14.6 mm high the watch is thick, though not excessively so. It does not feel ungainly on the wrist, although the flat, vertical case sides do accentuate the height. Another only potential downside is the fixed bezel, which means the watch cannot track the third time zone that’s possible on the standard GMT. It’s not a dealbreaker for me since the third time zone functionality is something I never use on a GMT watch. Still, the Black Bay Pro is an impressive value proposition all things considered, and certainly one of the best buys of the fair. F...
Time+Tide
WATCHES & WONDERS: Grand Seiko 2022 novelties overview
Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders is the biggest watch fair of the year and with nearly 40 brands presenting, there is a ton of ground to cover. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: Grand Seiko 2022 novelties overview appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2022 Novelties
Jaeger-LeCoultre brings a broad range of novelties to Watches & Wonders 2022, including the Polaris Perpetual Calendar and Master Grande Tradition Caliber 948.
Time+Tide
WATCHES & WONDERS: Jaeger-LeCoultre go star-gazing with the Stellar Odyssey collection
Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders is the biggest watch fair of the year, and, with nearly 40 brands presenting, there is a ton of ground to cover. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: Jaeger-LeCoultre go star-gazing with the Stellar Odyssey collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
WATCHES & WONDERS – Zenith maintain their momentum with a bumper crop of new releases
Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders is the biggest watch fair of the year, and, with nearly 40 brands presenting, there is a ton of ground to cover. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS – Zenith maintain their momentum with a bumper crop of new releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Odysseus Titanium
Debuted three years ago, the Odysseus is still a one-model collection with the Datomatic, though versions in different metals are steadily added to the family. And the latest is the most intriguing to date, because the Odysseus is entirely clad in titanium, marking a first for the German watchmaker. Initial thoughts The expansion rate of the Odysseus collection is surprisingly slow given most of its peers have quickly added complicated models such as a chronograph rather soon. But thankfully the Odysseus titanium is an interesting addition, despite being simply the result of a change in the material. It is indeed the material that distinguishes the latest, not just from its counterparts but also from the competitors. A natural choice for sports watches, titanium is nevertheless uncommon amongst luxury sports watches, especially when combined with Lange’s peerless finishing. And Lange certainly knows it’s special, because it is the first limited-edition Odysseus, ever. It’s also the priciest, costing about 40% more than the white gold model, which is exorbitant to say the least – and slightly opportunistic – but demand will doubtlessly outstrip supply. Titanium and more While the use of titanium is intruiguing, that alone is certainly not enough to make for a compelling Odysseus, just because Lange has set a high bar for watchmaking. And it doesn’t disappoint. On top of being end-to-end titanium, the finishing on the case and bracelet is also entirely different....
Revolution
Vacheron Constantin Finally Launches An All-Titanium Overseas
Vacheron Constantin finally launches an all titanium Overseas watch, case and bracelet at Watches & Wonders 2022
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Salmon”
Vacheron Constantin opens its doors at Watches & Wonders 2022 with diversity of timepieces ranging from the sporty to artisanal, but its most classical offering is the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in a fashionable “salmon”. With the model having been launched over a decade ago and then gently upgraded in 2016, the new version is merely a facelift. But still it’s noteworthy for combining a platinum case with a “salmon” dial, both currently desirable attributes, which should help make this a strong seller (which also explains why it will only be available at boutiques). Initial thoughts The highlight of the new Traditionnelle is the dial – the only element that’s different compared to the original launched six years ago. Though less intriguing because it’s popular and common today, the new dial is nevertheless a good move that gives the model a new lease of life. While the rest of the watch apart from the dial isn’t new, it does have several features that make it stand out, most obviously the large, 43 mm case with a flat, wide bezel, a bold look for a relatively classical watch. While the large diameter does improve the legibility of the complex dial, it will not appeal to traditionalists who favour smaller cases. But the movement will certainly appeal to traditionalists. The cal. 1142 QP, which is based on the Lemania 2310, was long the movement of choice in a variety of old-school classics such as the Patek Philippe ref. 5970. Vacheron ...
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Richard Lange Minute Repeater
A. Lange & Söhne first unveiled their first minute repeater in 2013, in the form of the Grand Complication. It took two more years for the unveiling of a simpler – yet still complex – model in the form of the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater. Finally, seven years later, Lange unveils the Richard Lange Minute Repeater – a no-frills, classical three-hander with the coveted chiming feature. Initial Impressions Surprisingly slim and impressive in terms of acoustics, the Richard Lange Minute Repeater feels like a conservative release from the brand, but one that is much needed in the brand’s lineup – especially for those looking for a classically-styled minute repeater compared to the Zeitwerk. At first glance, it feels like an odd watch relative to the rest of Lange’s catalogue – we’ve taken for granted that Lange usually designs movement that are distinctively unique, especially for complications. In fact, the minute repeater mechanism and overall layout feel like a traditional Swiss calibre, albeit one with a German aesthetic. This can be forgiven as there’s only so many ways to design a minute repeater in a classic three-hander. And the brand still innovates – the repeater has practical high-end features compared to most of its peers, such as safety mechanisms and eliminating the pauses between the hour and minute strike. But arguably the best quality of the watch is its tactile feel. It feels and sounds good on the wrist – the case is unusually thin for a La...
SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces the Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo PAM01269
Continuing its evolution from military watchmaker to one with a broader and civilian repertoire, Panerai introduces the Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo PAM01269. A variant of the minimalist Luminor perpetual calendar first unveiled last year, the PAM1269 has a dial made of tinted sapphire that reveals the concentric calendar discs underneath. And like many recent Panerai limited editions, the PAM 1269 is accompanied by an “experience”, in this case a trip to Florence (plus an NFT). The reverse of the watch includes the year and month displays, along with the power reserve indicator Initial thoughts If I were to just skim through the new watch releases of the year, I would have missed this Panerai because at a distance, it looks like any other Panerai. But it is more than that. Apart from being just a smartly conceived perpetual calendar, the watch includes an all-expenses-paid trip to Florence curated by Panerai. Given Panerai’s historical connections to Florence and its status as a leading luxury watchmaker, I imagine the trip would be filled with experiences impossible to obtain otherwise. The dial is open-worked yet highly legible Putting the trip aside, the watch itself is a marvel of clarity – a lot of information is displayed on the front and back in a manner as minimal as possible. The comprehensive display includes a second time zone and four-digit year indicator. Notably, the indicators on the front are also linear – everything is contained on a h...
SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont with a Lacquered Case
While Cartier has unveiled fancier and more complex watches at W&W; 2022, one of its standout new launches is amongst the more affordable, at least in steel. The Santos-Dumont Large Model in lacquer is unusual and interesting; very different from any recent Cartier yet clearly a product of the Parisian jeweller. Available in steel, gold, or platinum, the new Santos-Dumont has its case and bezel finished with coloured lacquer, while the dial has a concentric cube pattern. Though the lacquered case is inspired by a vintage Santos with a similar decoration, it is unique amongst Cartier’s current line up. Initial thoughts The new Santos-Dumont is inspired by a 1920s watch with a lacquer bezel, giving it an unsurprising vintage vibe, yet it is entirely original. With its square bezel and Roman numerals, it is clearly a Cartier Santos, but it stands apart from its more mundane counterparts. I like everything about it, though I would have preferred it in the Extra-Large size, rather than the Large as it is now. Of the three versions, the steel model has the strongest vintage vibes with its black lacquer. The platinum model is striking and almost over the top in its colour, while the rose gold version lacks contrast. In steel with black lacquer While the platinum and gold versions are limited edition – as would be expected for such an unusual watch – the steel version is regular production, which is both unexpected and welcome news. And the watch is fairly priced in all its v...
SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces the Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise
After having reimagined signature models like the Tank Cintree and Tank Asymetrique, Cartier now turns it attention to something less well known. The Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise arrives just in time for the 100th anniversary of the original Tank Chinoise, which was inspired by traditional Chinese architecture. Unlike past Cartier Privé models that adhered closely to earlier versions of the model, the new watch takes more liberty in reimagining the Tank Chinoise, which was last available in 2004 as part of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP). A 1930 Tank Chinoise of the type that inspired the 2004 CPCP version Initial thoughts For fans of the 2004 Tank Chinoise, which was very square yet made up of rounded edges and lines, the new model will be jarringly different with its angular form. Yet for anyone who appreciates a traditional Tank, the new Chinoise is more like a Tank than any past version of the design. I like the redesigned case. Where I would have wished for something different is the dial, which repeats the same elements found in past Cartier Privé models; a bolder dial would have gone better with the restyled case. However, Cartier certainly went all out with the skeleton version, which is striking and original. It comes close to being too much with its Chinese-inspired motifs, but not quite, so it still looks and feels tasteful. Allongée The new Tank Chinoise is akin to a Tank Allongée – it’s an elongated version of the earlier CPCP Tank Chinois...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Cartier Takes The Tank Must To The Dark Side
And the Tank Louis Cartier comes along for the ride.
SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces the Masse Mystérieuse
Cartier’s wide-ranging new launches at Watches & Wonders 2022 naturally encompasses new takes on its historical designs, including the Tank Chinoise and lacquered Santos-Dumont. But its most extraordinary creation stands apart from the brand’s contemporary timepieces. The Masse Mystérieuse is essentially a floating movement within an oscillating weight. As the weight oscillates around the central axis of the dial, it winds the mainspring contained within itself. Initial thoughts Cartier abandoned its once ambitious push into highly complicated watches when its current chief executive Cyrille Vigneron took charge in 2016. Mr Vigneron has stated publicly on several occasions that Cartier should not stray from its historical strength in simple, elegant watches in unusual forms. So the Masse Mystérieuse is definitely atypical, but that doesn’t take away from its fascinating mechanics. The complexity and creativity of its mechanics bring to mind an earlier era of Cartier watchmaking. While Cartier states that the Masse Mystérieuse was eight years in the making, it doesn’t mention who was responsible for the idea. It goes without saying that is was Carole Forestier-Kasapi, the former head of development at Cartier’s manufacture who now has the same role at TAG Heuer. The Masse Mystérieuse is instantly recognisable as her work, appearing to be evolved from the Astrotourbillon. Ingenious as it is, the Masse Mystérieuse is also similar to Ms Forestier-Kasapi’s pa...
Quill & Pad
Otto Hutt Writing Instruments: Bauhaus Style For Your Writing Pleasure
When contemplating German pen making, if your mind immediately turns to such brands as Pelikan, Lamy, Montblanc, Faber-Castell, and other storied companies, it’s time to add Otto Hutt to the list. Nancy Olson takes a look at the brand's design c and and design 08 writing instruments, which set a new course for the traditional German pen maker.
Time+Tide
Mr Rolex reveals! The authoritative take on what’s about to drop…
Rolex is the biggest watch brand on the planet and James Dowling knows more about it than practically anyone. Known as @misterrolex on Instagram, the veteran collector and journalist is the author of The Best of Time: Rolex Wristwatches and has even been referred to as a “Rolex scholar”. That’s why he’s the ideal man to … ContinuedThe post Mr Rolex reveals! The authoritative take on what’s about to drop… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton
H. Moser & Cie.’s flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2022 is the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton. While the watch combines elements found in past Moser watches, including the trademark fume dial, it does so in an novel manner, resulting in a watch that looks and feels different from the brand’s current offerings. Initial thoughts The new Pioneer tourbillon combines familiar elements in a novel manner, resulting in an interesting watch that stands apart from the rest of Moser’s offerings. Mechanically it is a variant of the calibre found in the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon of 2020. The inclined time display of the earlier model has been eliminated, while the movement has been skeletonised in an unusual step for the brand, which has rarely offered skeleton watches in the past. Visually, the Pioneer tourbillon is not obviously a Moser at first glance, although the sub-dial at 12 o’clock is in a smoked blue that is associated with Moser. In fact, the styling of the watch brings to mind the skeletonised watches of Jaquet Droz. Still, the Pioneer tourbillon is interesting and novel enough that its CHF79,000 price tag is fair, putting it amongst the more appealing tourbillons in this affordable(ish) price segment. A sporty tourbillon The new Pioneer was conceived as a sports watch with a tourbillon. The Pioneer case is rated to 120 m of water resistance and positioned as Moser’s elegant sports watch (as opposed to the Streamliner that is an out-and-out spo...
Deployant
New: Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante Openworked Ice Blue
Czapek continues on to a second release of the Antarctique Rattrapante, with a new model, now with ice blue accents to highlight the hands and rings.
Deployant
New: Breitling Navitimer Collection
The legendary Breitling Navitimer turns 70 this year, and the brand just unveiled a redesigned collection with a selection of bold colours and sizes.
Time+Tide
WATCHES & WONDERS: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton
Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders is the biggest watch fair of the year and, with nearly 40 brands presenting, there is a ton of ground to cover. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Just Because: No, We Don't Know What Rolex Will Announce At Watches & Wonders – But We Have Suggestions
I dream of painting, and then I paint my dream (watch).
Time+Tide
REVERSO STORIES: @Kenergy57 & his Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute
To celebrate the 90th anniversary of the Reverso, we’re sitting down with a few of our Time+Tide Club members to discuss their personal watches and get an appreciation about why the Reverso enjoys such a special place in their collections. First up we have Kenneth or Kenergy as he’s better known to the Sydney watch community due … ContinuedThe post REVERSO STORIES: @Kenergy57 & his Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Crazy week: the calm before the storm of Watches & Wonders 2022
A calm today, before the storm of Watches & Wonders 2022 and associated watch fairs being held in Geneva. Here a quick rundown on what is coming this week.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Longines Elegant Collection is a modern ode to simplicity
Longines is a brand that knows how to use their heritage, which you would expect from the company with the world’s oldest active registered trademark in the iconic winged hourglass. Even when a design is completely new and modern, their logo on the dial is just instantly tied to a lineage of watches that seems … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Elegant Collection is a modern ode to simplicity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.