3,359 articles · 82 videos found · page 83 of 115
Deployant
Series of ultra macros…abstractions Today I will feature a watch from Roman Gautier…the Logical 1…but only abstract images. The full watch will be shown on Monday. Click on image above for 1920 wide full screen wallpaper. Note: Watches (one in gold, another in platinum) photographed are prototypes, and have been travelling the world shown toRead More
Revolution
The enduring quest for horological excellence and drive for continued innovation have led to Jaeger-LeCoultre amassing some 400 patents and 1,242 calibres today. Here, on the eve of SIHH 2013, we present the “Hommage a Antoine LeCoultre” collection. Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique The timepiece is armed with a cantilevered tourbillon and when combined with […]
Deployant
What do you do when your early product is already uber cool…where do you go from uber cool? Felix Baumgartner (not the sky diving dare devil…the watchmaking genius) shows the way. I get to wear the Urwerk watches…all 3 super duper ultra cool watches in one evening…and lived to tell the tale. The year wasRead More
Revolution
“I’ve heard tell what you imagine sometimes comes true” – Roald Dahl, Charlie and the Chocolate Factory Of all the complicated watches I’ve owned or worn - despite the varying claims of their makers that their dual oscillators, tourbillons, double tourbillons, resonance, triple tourbillons, constant-force mechanism, chain and fusée, ultra-light honeycomb baseplates and so on, […]
Deployant
Today I feature Opus 7, a collaboration with Andreas Strahler. The Opus Project by Harry Winston is a remarkable initiative. Started some 12 years ago, now we are at edition Opus 12…the project uses the considerable resources of the Harry Winston company in cooperation with master watchmakers to create interesting and very innovative designs, marketedRead More
Deployant
A series of portraits I took, with the intention to create a set for an exhibition. Master watchmakers are the soul of the industry, I wanted to capture some of that powerful character which makes them enigmatic to the watch collecting public. These are great genii who know how to work with their hands. Today,Read More
Deployant
Laurent Ferrier is a very small firm based in Geneva. They practically burst into the scene with a ultra classical watch featuring a tourbillon and immaculate finishing in 2010. That was the Galet Tourbillon. They added a peek-a-boo style dial to the Galet in 2011. And this year, they introduced the Micro Rotor –Read More
Deployant
SIHH 2012: Vacheron Constantin. The rise of the new Malte and the continuing saga of the Metiers d’Art. 2012 seems to be the year of the reissue. Many brands reworked their classic offerings and modernized their collection. This was seen in JLC with their 1930s Reverso (yes that started in SIHH 2011), AP with theRead More
Deployant
Lange had a bumper crop this year…in addition to the Richard Lange Pour le Merite Tourbillon announced last month…see this, they announced the Zeitwerk Striking Time, the new Saxonia Thin handwound, Saxonia World Time, and a refreshed Saxonia. And stay tuned for yet another big announcement slated for mid-year. But let’s go through the novelties…firstRead More
Deployant
The Philippe Dufour Duality...ultimate in discreteness, and totally unassuming in character, but what a gorgeous, and ultra-complicated movement within.
Deployant
This is the iconic watch of the century…created by grand master watchmaker Philippe Dufour…after many years of only making super complicated watches…his portfolio before the Simplicity was the world premiere of a Grand et Petite Sonnerie on a wristwatch, and the world premiere of a wristwatch featuring dual, escapements to a single train known asRead More
Monochrome
Since 2017, Hublot has celebrated the arrival of each summer with a special collection unveiled in Saint-Tropez. For 2026, the brand prepared a series of Big Bang watches, demonstrating Hublot’s mastery of coloured ceramic. The range offers a lighter, seasonal interpretation of the Big Bang and spans manufacture chronographs, a tourbillon and compact automatic models. Two […]
Fratello
Hanhart introduces a new fire-service-inspired limited edition, and the Thermosphere is not shy about its source of inspiration. The 42mm watch is based on the Aquasphere series, but the bezel swaps diving orientation for breathing-apparatus monitoring, with markers designed around the time checks used during firefighting operations. That makes this more than a fancy colorway […] Visit It’s Getting Hot In Here, So Take Off… No… Strap On Your Hanhart Thermosphere! to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Tudor marks its 100th birthday by reviving the Monarch with a completely new look — one that captures the spirit of the brand’s founding decade, reinterpreted for the 21st century. The Monarch manages to be both sporty and dressy, with a distinctive design and upmarket build that proves Tudor has aspirations beyond the Black Bay. Initial thoughts Tudor turns 100 stronger than it’s ever been. The brand that once trafficked in cheaper versions of Rolex models can now bring compelling products like this to market with impressive regularity. That said, the brand tends to be at its best when it comes to sports watches like the Black Bay — what Tudor calls its ‘classic watches’ have had less market impact. In this context, the Monarch represents a major step forward for Tudor. It’s dressy without looking derivative, and robust enough for everyday wear. In short, the Monarch rules. Image – Tudor Much of Tudor’s current collection takes heavy inspiration from its deep back catalogue. That isn’t the case for the Monarch, which shares nothing with the 1990s and 2000s Monarchs save for the name and shield at 12 o’clock. Instead, the Monarch’s design celebrates the earliest years of Tudor — the 1920s — which was a transitional period in which wristwatch production had not yet equalled that of pocket watches. Watchmakers at the time weren’t yet sure what kinds of wristwatches people wanted, and the era is marked by expressive and experimental designs. Beca...
Monochrome
When Monovant introduced the Rheon Royal Lapis last year, the young Greek brand delivered a watch that was simple, sturdy, and regal. The deep blue lapis lazuli dial with a tiny diamond made a statement without relying on excess. Its clean display suggested that perhaps we need much less than we think we do. Apologies […]
Hodinkee
What We Know Just in time for the hot and humid summer ahead, Doxa has just unveiled a new generation of its distinctive, cushion-cased dive-watch-slash-chronograph with the new Sub 200 T.Graph II. The best part? It's no longer a limited edition, but rather a permanent offering for the brand. Oh, and thankfully, it's priced less than that previous 300-piece LE. At a quick glance, nothing seems to have changed on Doxa's tribute to its 1969 design, and you'd be sort of correct. The dial layout, with two subdials at 3 and 9 o'clock, along with an oversized arrowhead chronograph seconds hand, remains the same in this new generation. But the main changes here are sure to make almost everyone happy: a slight reduction in diameter and case thickness. While the previous Sub 200 T.Graph measured at 43mm in diameter with a thickness of 15.15mm, the steel case on the Sub 200 T.Graph II measures 42mm in diameter and 14.6mm in thickness. Rather than the new old stock Valjoux 7734 chronograph caliber that the limited edition housed, this new T.Graph II uses a contemporary automatic Sellita SW510 chronograph caliber, with a slightly higher 56-hour power reserve and a much higher beat rate of 28,800 VpH. New to the Sub 200 T.Graph II is also another dial color, Caribbean (Doxa's name for blue), which is a familiar livery within the brand's other models but never before offered on a T.Graph. The dark, slightly dusty navy dial joins the three other colorways found in the original design: ...
Deployant
A few years ago, watches with an integrated bracelet was the fad. Every watch manufacturer then decided they need at least a timepiece with an integrated bracelet in their repertoire. Today, things have cooled down a little. We still do see the appeal though, although the market may not necessarily agree with us. The strangeRead More
SJX Watches
After more than 20 years, avante garde independent MB&F; returns to its roots and looks to its future with HM12 The Guardian. It combines a Horological Machine with a high-end shaped movement, flying tourbillon the most elaborate – and coolest – watch stand imaginable: a nearly 400 mm tall, 15 kg robot. Better yet, The Guardian can shift into battle mode at a moments notice, deploying armor to protect its weak points. Initial Thoughts MB&F; marks its 20th anniversary with HM12 The Guardian, or would have, had it been ready in time. Instead HM12 celebrates MB&F;’s future, as the first project led solely by the brand’s creative director (and Max Büsser’s heir), Max Maertens. Mr Büsser kicked the project off about four years ago by pitching a robot with a watch for a face, following up on the brand’s robot Melchior and Balthazar desk clocks. After that, Max 2.0 was left to his own devices, with this as the result. It is a very reassuring result for those concerned about the brand’s future after Maximilian Büsser’s eventual retirement, which isn’t yet imminent, but something the brand is clearly preparing for. Interestingly, Eric Giroud, who has designed just about every MB&F; watch, was not involved in the project either. Max (left) and Max (right). Image – MB&F; While discussing the project, Mr Büsser told me that Mr Maertens actually modelled the robot himself in SolidWorks, which goes well beyond the normal duties of a designer. That Maertens did the har...
SJX Watches
After more than 20 years, avant-garde independent MB&F; returns to its roots and looks to its future with HM12 The Guardian. The HM12 is a Horological Machine containing a high-end shaped movement featuring a flying tourbillon, nestled in the most elaborate – and coolest – watch stand imaginable: a nearly 400 mm tall, 15 kg robot. Better yet, The Guardian can shift into battle mode at a moments notice, deploying armor to protect its weak points. Initial Thoughts MB&F; marks its 20th anniversary with HM12 The Guardian, or would have, had it been ready in time. Instead HM12 celebrates MB&F;’s future, as the first project led solely by the brand’s creative director (and founder Max Büsser’s heir), Max Maertens. Mr Büsser kicked the project off about four years ago by pitching a robot with a watch for a face, following up on the brand’s robot Melchior and Balthazar desk clocks. After that, Max 2.0 was left to his own devices, with this as the result. It is a very reassuring result for those concerned about the brand’s future after Maximilian Büsser’s eventual retirement, which isn’t yet imminent, but something the brand is clearly preparing for. Interestingly, Eric Giroud, who has designed just about every MB&F; watch, was not involved in the project either. Max (left) and Max (right). Image – MB&F; While discussing the project, Mr Büsser told me that Mr Maertens actually modelled the robot himself in SolidWorks, which goes well beyond the normal duties of a...
Time+Tide
Combining classical details with French watchmaking mastery in an updated package that rewards a closer look.
Worn & Wound
Lots of ink has been spilled in the short span of time since the launch of the Formex Aria on the topic of small brands (microbrands, if you must) going upmarket and playing at significantly higher price points than consumers are accustomed to. When a brand releases a watch that is multiple times the cost of the watches they are already associated with, it can cause a near panic in the watch enthusiast community. Lots of “HOW COULD THEY?” type comments appear on websites like ours, Instagram, and over beers at local meetups as collectors grapple with the idea that watch brands, which are also businesses that support the lives of real human beings, might attempt to make the most of the increased popularity our hobby has received in these past few years. And that’s really what it is, right? The mainstreaming of watches has led brands like Formex, Christopher Ward, Atelier Wen, and others to feel confident in their expansion upmarket. Gone are the days when microbrands appeal solely to value conscious consumers – they have the eye of at least some traditional luxury buyers as well, and the ambitious watches they’ve developed and the prices being asked are a reflection of that. Timex, of course, is not a microbrand, but their Atelier line is a significant move into a higher pricing tier, and some of those same dynamics are in play, I think with the release of two new chronographs in the brand’s highest end line of watches. You might remember the Atelier collect...
Hodinkee
Not all collector events are made equal. Back in April, during Watches and Wonders, I got an invite to swing by the Tudor HQ in Geneva for a special dinner. I assumed this would be like most brand dinners, including Tudor examples from the past, a glass of wine, a flying buffet, and a seated dinner. I could not have been more wrong. Rather than hors d'oeuvres and the looming possibility of a mid-dinner dance presentation, I walked into a room absolutely packed with vintage Tudors, along with many of the personalities who had either collected the watches firsthand or helped establish the knowledge surrounding the collection. A group of singular 34mm Tudor Oyster, including a 1972 Cotton Bowl watch and matching hat. Honestly, after a long day at the Palexpo for the fair, the collection of watches and ephemera was entirely overwhelming. I did my best to shoot what I could as well as I could. In scenarios where a watch or two was lost to glare, flash, or both, I tried to add an additional photo to cover it. That said, I am 100% sure I didn't get to everything, and many of the watches you see below could be (or have been) the subject of entire stories. A Tudor Submariner 9411. So scroll on for a look at an insane array of Submariners, Rangers, Oysters, Chronographs, and more. Look closely for special dials, special bezels, military-issued examples, rare references, early models, notable school watches, and even a couple of ultra-rare watches with double-signed dials. Towa...
Fratello
Around 1990, one of my friends was lucky enough to receive an Ebel Sport Classic watch for his birthday. At the time, I was more focused on Swatch and Casio, and I knew nothing about Ebel other than that its watches looked cool. It wasn’t until a few years later, when my interest in mechanical […] Visit Is It Worth It: Pre-Owned Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph to read the full article.
Hodinkee
There are few things better in the realm of watch ownership than using your watch for its stated purpose – diving with a diver, flying with a pilot watch, traveling with a Worldtimer. Even better still, getting to do so while taking your watch back to the place where it was created, experiencing the country and culture that brought it to life. This past spring, in the height of that most cherished of seasons when the cherry blossoms in Japan bloom, I had the opportunity to do just that with the Citizen Attesa Platinum Shine. Attesa is, in many ways, a distillation of everything that makes Citizen special. It is the collection that showcases the most advanced technologies and techniques. They are modern, even futuristic-looking watches, designed with a forward-looking perspective on who Citizen is, and where it is going. Radio or satellite-controlled Eco-Drive movements, unique and complex dial materials, various cutting-edge methods for utilizing some of the best titanium alloys in watchmaking – these are all hallmarks of the Attesa collection. Like all of Citizen's watches, regardless of collection or price, Attesa is assembled by hand with the utmost capability and care. An evolution of the radio antennas used in Eco-Drive watches throughout the years. First released in 2025, when the Attesa collection was re-established in the U.S. as part of Citizen's new Premier category, the watch is available in several variations. Each one has a different reference number, an...
Worn & Wound
In the span of just a few short years, Kollokium has gone from a nearly secret insider side project with a hard to discern future to a fully fledged brand. When the Projekt 01 first came on the scene, it was a bit of a mystery to most what the founders (Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi) had planned, or even if they had planned anything at all. There was a one-off quality to that initial drop that seemed to communicate it could all be abandoned at any moment. Honestly, the watch industry probably needs a little more of that energy – watches that exist outside of a business plan and represent an artistic vision more than a marketing ploy. But credit to Kollokium for being smart about the way they’ve managed expectations and continue to move the ball forward across several subsequent releases since the Projekt 01. In addition to new colorways for that original design, they’ve introduced an entirely watch (not so creatively called the Projekt 02) that builds on the design language introduced in the first piece and deepens the complexity pretty significantly. They’ve just announced the latest Projekt 02, Variant C, and it’s the latest chance for collectors to get in on one of the most interesting new designs in indie watchmaking. As a refresher, the Projekt 02 is defined by a dial built on a series of stacked plates (over 60 of them) in different shapes and sizes that when fully assembled resemble a three dimensional topographical map. The terrain of t...
Worn & Wound
Formex has formally introduced what is likely to be at or near the top of many of our “Watch of the Year” lists when 2026 is all said and done. Long a brand synonymous with squeezing an absolutely insane amount of value from every dollar spent, the new Aria is Formex’s most ambitious watch to date, by a wide margin. We got a look at the Aria during Watches & Wonders week while Formex exhibited at Chronopolis, and then again at Windup San Francisco a few weeks later, and we remain impressed with what the brand has accomplished. This is a big step forward for them on a number of fronts. The Aria is an integrated bracelet sports watch that is also ultra-thin and uses the brand’s first manufacture movement. It makes sense, I think, to start with the case and bracelet, because they are immediately striking to hold and wear when you first experience the watch. The Aria is 40mm in diameter and crafted from titanium, with a tapered bracelet that has meticulously hand finished elements throughout. The total case height comes to just 6.9mm, and a close examination of the case, bracelet, and how they are integrated to one another reveals an intense attention to detail on the part of Formex and their design team. The Aria seems to understand what makes an integrated bracelet sports watch really work, which is a continuity of form from the case to the bracelet, and all the way to the clasp. They are integrated in the truest sense of the word, with matching finishes and tight ...
SJX Watches
First teased more than two years ago, the Barrelhand Monolith makes its official debut. An impressive sophomore effort from San Francisco-based mechanical engineer Karel Bachand, the Monolith was designed — and rigorously tested — to accompany the next generation of manned spaceflight missions. Initial thoughts I tend to look at astronaut-oriented watches with a degree of scepticism. For one thing, many modern mechanical watches are inherently capable of performing well enough in space, especially within the pressurised, temperature-controlled conditions of a spacecraft or space station. Today’s astronauts often travel with numerous personal watches, either for sentimental reasons or to boost future resale value. For another, the demands placed on astronauts make electronic multi-function watches superior to their mechanical counterparts. Almost as soon as such watches were developed, astronauts adopted them enthusiastically, which is why the Timex Datalink was flight qualified by NASA in the 1990s. The European Space Agency (ESA) even patented a set of purpose-built functions devised by astronaut Jean-François Clervoy. These functions were brought to life by the Omega Speedmaster Skywalker X-33. But mechanical watches still have a place in the unforgiving vacuum of space, where massive temperature fluctuations and unpredictable levels of radiation wreak havoc on batteries and LCD displays. These are the conditions for which the Monolith was developed, and the maker...
Worn & Wound
Four years ago I spent a fortnight with the Archival 1930, and ultimately proclaimed it the closest Fears has come to parting me from my hard-earned money. Since then, two things have happened. Firstly, Fears did earn my business by way of the Alliance 01 collaboration with Christopher Ward. Secondly, the modest lineup of rectangular watches from the brand has grown ever so slightly but remains overshadowed by the flagship Brunswick and sporty Redcliff families, and are perhaps therefore a little underappreciated. With so many iterations based on the Brunswick template, including the hugely popular cocktail trilogy produced in collaboration with Studio Underd0g, I find myself rooting for the Arnos – Fears’ first watch to build on the template of the Archival 1930 which captured my heart. When analyzing the Arnos ($4,500), it feels appropriate to start with the dial. I haven’t sought out common opinion in preparation for going hands on with the watch, but I fully expect the dial to be a polarizing factor. As is the case with any rectangular watch, there’s going to be a lot of space to fill. Space where the hands just can’t reach. That’s true of square dial watches too, but exacerbated further in a rectangle. Some watches fill this space with stretched indices, or an inner minute track matching the same outer rectangular shape. Even the aforementioned Archival 1930 (in two-hander form) lined the indices up vertically to cleverly use the corner spaces. Here, howev...
SJX Watches
The pocket watch format is experiencing an unexpected renaissance. From auction salerooms to high street queues, collectors of all stripes are talking about pocket watches more than at any time in recent memory. That makes it a perfect time to continue our series on groundbreaking historical pocket watches, including Breguet No. 160. This installment analyses the Leroy 01, which reigned as world’s most complicated watch — by most measures — for 85 years. The calm before the storm On the first of November 1897, Charles Piguet began work on an ébauche for which no contract yet existed. In his workshop at Le Sentier, a stone village strung along the floor of the Vallée de Joux at an altitude where winter arrives early and stays long, he opened a commission that would occupy the better part of seven years and produce the most complicated portable timepiece ever constructed. The formal agreement with his client, the Parisian house of L. Leroy & Cie — formerly known as Le Roy & Fils — would not be signed until January 1898. Piguet started anyway. In the Vallée de Joux, a man’s word was sufficient. This detail — two months of work before the ink dried — says something essential about the relationship between the French brand and the Swiss établisseurs on whom it depended. L. Leroy & Cie, founded in Paris in 1785 by Basile-Charles Leroy, had maintained that relationship across generations. When Louis Leroy, who had acquired the firm in 1889 and established a ma...
WatchAdvice
The short answer: Yes! The Cartier Tank Américaine is a standout watch that looks and feels a lot more versatile than it lets on. Let’s find out why! What We Love: A versatile yet elegant design A sportier remix of a legendary icon Wears comfortably on the leather strap What We Don’t: Readability suffers in the first and third quarters The crown is small and fiddly Where’s the display caseback? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 I think that, since I began working at WatchAdvice, my opinion on Cartier has changed the least. I’d already heard so much about it from every corner of culture; rap songs and rom-coms sing equal praise of the Parisian powerhouse. So, when this opportunity came along, it simply allowed me to get closer to a brand I had already learned to appreciate. With closeness, though, comes closer scrutiny. Cartier bears the weight of a rich legacy on its shoulders, and even the smallest deviation can have Cartier fans questioning their loyalty. Its model lines, in both jewellery and watchmaking, have become so iconic that remixing them is a massive risk. Getting it wrong, depending on who you ask, is intolerable. These are the stakes Cartier faces with the Tank Américaine. How could they possibly change the formula of such a universally popular watch collection while preserving the original DNA? That’s what I aimed to find out when I took the Tank Américaine for a spin some time ago...
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