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Results for The Rolex Submariner History

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Urwerk Introduces the UR-10 SpaceMeter Worn & Wound
Urwerk Introduces Oct 15, 2025

Urwerk Introduces the UR-10 SpaceMeter

Just when you think you know an indie brand, they go ahead and make a watch that looks kind of normal. That was one of the initial thoughts running through my head when the Urwerk team showed us the new UR-10 SpaceMeter during our Geneva Watch Days meeting last month. It is, without question, one of the most confounding releases in the brand’s history. This is a brand that has singlehandedly carved out a niche for themselves with highly technical, futuristic timepieces that employ wandering and satellite hours complications in innovative and unique ways. Their watches are usually not circular, they do not have traditional hands, and they don’t even really have what we’d think of as complications in a traditional sense. But the UR-10 proves that even when a brand has defined a category, there’s still plenty of opportunity to surprise with something new.  The concept of the SpaceMeter is to, unsurprisingly, measure space. That’s a pretty heady concept, but it’s rooted in classical watchmaking that has always been an influence on brand founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei. In the case of the UR-10, the inspiration comes directly from an important clock in Baumgartner’s life, a 19th century pendulum clock signed by Gustave Sandoz. The unusual clock belonged to Baumgartner’s father, and upon taking ownership apparently had little idea of exactly what the subdials were meant to track. After a lot of research, Baumgartner determined that the clock was desig...

Hands-On With The New Longines Ultra-Chron Classic - Honoring The Original High-Beat Ultra-Chron From 1967 Fratello
Longines Ultra-Chron Classic - Honoring Oct 13, 2025

Hands-On With The New Longines Ultra-Chron Classic - Honoring The Original High-Beat Ultra-Chron From 1967

Longines has a long history when it comes to high-frequency movements. Way back in 1910, the company received the first patent for a pocket chronograph featuring such a high-beat movement and capable of measuring 1/10th of a second. In 1959, Longines presented its first wristwatch with a high-frequency movement that only deviated about 1/10th of […] Visit Hands-On With The New Longines Ultra-Chron Classic - Honoring The Original High-Beat Ultra-Chron From 1967 to read the full article.

Le Forban Sécurité Mer Introduces the Marseillaise, a New Diver with a (Very Strange) Rubber Bund Strap Worn & Wound
Oct 9, 2025

Le Forban Sécurité Mer Introduces the Marseillaise, a New Diver with a (Very Strange) Rubber Bund Strap

I love a bit of fashion history, especially when it comes to how our modern clothes came to be. Take, for instance, the high heel. Did you know it was originally designed as a riding shoe in 10th century Persia, in which the heel was made to sit in the stirrup? Or that the jockstrap was originally for “bike jockeys” to help keep things comfortable on old (and presumably not so aerodynamic) bicycles? Or that the Hawaiian shirt, now synonymous with dads at Margaritaville, was first designed using Japanese kimono fabric in the early 1900s? All of that is to say that fashion is ever-evolving and with some quite surprising origins, if you ask me. Another accessory with an interesting – if not murkier –  history is the bund strap. Some say the name comes from the word Bundesrepublik, while others say it’s from Bundeswehr (I try not to split hairs too much in German – as you know, it’s such a forgiving language). Some say the leather strap protected against discoloration of brass watch cases from skin perspiration, while others say it was to protect against the extreme temperature change of the metal for pilots. In any case, we know that a) the design originated among pilots during World War II and b) it’s a badass strap design that often doesn’t get enough attention. Which leads me (finally) to the release of Le Forban Sécurité Mer’s Marseillaise dive watch with a bund-style strap. The French brand has taken its 1979 Monnin model as the springboard (or sho...

First Look – The Oris Big Crown 40mm Pointer Date x Cervo Volante Monochrome
Oris Big Crown 40mm Pointer Oct 7, 2025

First Look – The Oris Big Crown 40mm Pointer Date x Cervo Volante

A classic in Oris’ collection, the Big Crown Pointer Date borrowed features from the brand’s first serially produced pilot’s watch of 1938, including the oversized crown and the pointer date calendar indication. Reintroduced in 1984 by general manager Dr Rolf Portmann on a hunch that nostalgia for mechanical watches with a dash of aviation history […]

The Laureato Fifty is a Milestone for Girard-Perregaux SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre derived calibre found Oct 7, 2025

The Laureato Fifty is a Milestone for Girard-Perregaux

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of its most enduring wristwatch design, Girard-Perregaux (GP) has just unveiled the Laureato Fifty, a watch that highlights the brand’s storied history, while asserting the manufacture‘s place in the current competitive market. As expected, the watch is powered by the brand’s new workhorse calibre GP4800, which makes its official debut here. A limited edition of just 200 pieces, the Laureato Fifty is dressed in a two-tone case of steel and yellow gold, echoing the 1975 original. Though this is a one-off limited edition, it is more than likely that this revised Laureato styling will be implemented across the Laureato line in the coming year. Initial thoughts To understand the Laureato Fifty, we must first consider the era to which it pays tribute. The original design of the Laureato, presented to the world in 1975, appeared right between Gerald Genta’s iconic duo of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, launched in 1972 and 1976, respectively. Compared to these designs, which would come to define the category, the Laureato was different in a few respects.  First, the original design is credited to one of GP’s in-house designers, whose name has been lost to time. Second, the original Laureato was cutting edge at the time with its proprietary, chronometer-certified quartz movement, compared to the ultra-thin automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre-derived calibre found in the Royal Oak (and later, the Nautilus). Turning to...

Rolex Batman vs. Batgirl: Two Iconic GMT-Masters Compared Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Oct 6, 2025

Rolex Batman vs. Batgirl: Two Iconic GMT-Masters Compared

The Rolex GMT-Master II is one of the most popular timepieces in the world, and the "Batman" and "Batgirl" versions, with their alluring black-and-blue colorways, are on many a collector's wish list. But what makes a Batman a Batman, and a Batgirl a Batgirl, and what exactly differentiates these two watches, so similar at first glance, from each other? Here we explore what makes "Rolex Batman vs. Batgirl" such a compelling matchup, and why the debate on the nicknames themselves is so intriguing. Lead image by Bonhams and Sotheby's Before Batman: A Brief History of the Rolex GMT-Master When it hit the market in 1955, one year after its unveiling, the Rolex GMT-Master was both trend-setting and genre-defining in its now-iconic conception. The original GMT-Master (Ref. 6542) was the first watch capable of displaying the time in two separate time zones thanks to the clever addition of a fourth, central 24-hour hand and a bidirectional rotating 24-hour bezel. The initials in the watch’s name signify “Greenwich Mean Time,” the system of world timekeeping based on the calculation of mean solar time from the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London. This dual-time functionality was an innovation devised for, and developed in cooperation with, the original watch’s intended users: pilots for Pan American Airlines, at the time one of the U.S.A.’s leading commercial carriers. In that so-called Golden Age of commercial aviation, the growth of long-haul and international flights...

Rock On! Stone-Dial Watches For Every Budget - Including Dennison, Piaget, Baltic, And Rolex Fratello
Piaget Baltic Oct 4, 2025

Rock On! Stone-Dial Watches For Every Budget - Including Dennison, Piaget, Baltic, And Rolex

Would you rock a stone-dial watch? I would. And I also could. Previously, only a handful of brands ventured into stone dials, and those that did reserved them for highly expensive pieces. Today, however, technological advancements have made stone dials far more accessible to produce. This benefits watchmakers and watch fans: smaller brands can now […] Visit Rock On! Stone-Dial Watches For Every Budget - Including Dennison, Piaget, Baltic, And Rolex to read the full article.

Introducing: The New Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback Fratello
Longines Spirit Pilot Oct 2, 2025

Introducing: The New Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback

Longines and aviation have been intertwined for more than a century. The brand supplied navigation and timekeeping instruments for some of the earliest pioneers of flight, from transatlantic adventurers to polar explorers. That history continues to shape the Spirit collection, launched in 2020 as a modern take on classic pilot’s watches. Now, five years on, […] Visit Introducing: The New Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback to read the full article.

Hamilton Introduces the Khaki Field Auto 38mm Call of Duty Special Edition Worn & Wound
Hamilton Introduces Sep 30, 2025

Hamilton Introduces the Khaki Field Auto 38mm Call of Duty Special Edition

For as long as I’ve been writing about watches (and in fact much longer) Hamilton has been associated with the silver screen. They are incredibly proud of their long history of popularizing specific watches through their appearances in movies. It’s a tradition that goes back decades, to when Elvis wore a Hamilton Ventura in Blue Hawaii, and has continued through the years with ties to some of the most widely seen films of the recent past, including Oppenheimer, Dune Part II, and more. Lately, however, Hamilton has shifted their focus just slightly by fully embracing what many see as a category that is equal to film in terms of storytelling and visual impact: gaming. The new Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 38mm Call of Duty Special Edition is the brand’s third watch that is specifically tied to a videogame, and follows an ambitious project made to coincide with the latest release in the Death Stranding series. The new version of the Khaki Field seen here is, at least on the surface, a bit easier to digest than the avant-garde Boulton concept seen in Death Stranding. And that certainly makes a great deal of sense for Call of Duty, which is, as these things go, a far more grounded gaming experience. It is, notably, one of those games that has broken through to the popular culture even beyond serious gamers. It’s a title that just about everyone knows, even if they don’t know they know it, a notion that seems to bolster Hamilton’s decision to lean into the video game wor...

Dubai Watch Week 2025 Panel Highlights and Rolex CEO Keynote SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Chopard Sep 29, 2025

Dubai Watch Week 2025 Panel Highlights and Rolex CEO Keynote

In less than two months, industry leaders will gather in Dubai for Dubai Watch Week (DWW), an event that has become a focal point of the industry since launching a decade ago. The 2025 edition will take place from November 19-23 in a new 200,000 sq ft venue next to Dubai Mall in order accommodate a slate of 90 brands; the largest line-up in its history, up nearly 50% compared to the 2023 edition. As ever, a highlight of DWW is the opportunity to hear directly from industry leaders during the various panel discussions. This year’s line-up includes some of the biggest names in watchmaking with a keynote from Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour, in conversation with Abdul Hamied Seddiqi, provocatively titled, ‘The Time to Act is Now – a note to the watch industry.” Mr Dufour rarely speaks publicly at a watch event, so this is one of the most significant happenings at DWW. In total, more than 50 sessions will take place across the five days of the event covering a variety of topics ranging from luxury and legacy in the age of algorithms and virality, to the reality of future-proofing founder-led independent brands; the latter will be a fireside chat with Max Büsser and Kari Voutilainen. There will also be a new chief executive roundtable featuring Georges Kern, Ilaria Resta, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, and Julien Tornare, the heads of Breitling, Audemars Piguet, Chopard, and Hublot, respectively. DWW takes place from November 19-23, 2025 in Burj Park adjacent t...

David Candaux Thinks Differentially with the DC12 MaveriK SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sep 25, 2025

David Candaux Thinks Differentially with the DC12 MaveriK

After a few quiet years, David Candaux has introduced the DC12 MaveriK – the brand’s fourth model and its first without a tourbillon. A deceptively complicated time-only watch, the DC12 features twin escapements linked by a differential, a mechanism deeply rooted in the twentieth century history of the Vallée de Joux. Housed in an organic 39.5 mm titanium case, the DC12 is the most affordable watch yet from the Le Solliat-based watchmaker, but retains the brand’s signature push-button crown below the dial. Initial thoughts An experienced constructor who can count the MB&F; HM6 and Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie among his credits, David Candaux launched his eponymous brand in 2017. But he would be the first to tell you it was not an easy start, managing to sell just 14 watches during his first four years in business. This is not uncommon in the world of independent watchmaking; look around at some of the most popular independent brands today and you’ll hear a similar story about their early days. Mr Candaux’s business subsequently picked up some momentum, and in the past four years the brand claims to have made an additional 42 pieces. If true, it’s an encouraging sign for a watchmaker with something of a chequered past as an independent constructor, who is said to have had difficulty meeting obligations to client brands. In some ways, the DC12 is the embodiment of this journey, being simpler and cheaper than Mr Candaux’s previous models....

Tissot’s Beating Heart: The Powermatic 80 And Powermatic 80 COSC Fratello
Tissot s Beating Heart Sep 25, 2025

Tissot’s Beating Heart: The Powermatic 80 And Powermatic 80 COSC

Tissot is one of our favorite brands here at Fratello. The company’s blend of history and industry-leading value also makes it a popular pick among buyers. Often, at the heart of this value proposition is an impressive movement. The Powermatic 80 has been in production since 2012, but it still offers impressive specs. Watches such […] Visit Tissot’s Beating Heart: The Powermatic 80 And Powermatic 80 COSC to read the full article.

Rolex Daytona Rainbow: When An Icon Goes Colorfully Gem-Set Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Sep 19, 2025

Rolex Daytona Rainbow: When An Icon Goes Colorfully Gem-Set

Aside from the watch that was made legendary by Paul Newman - and which would forever, unofficially, carry the famous actor’s name - there is probably no version of the Rolex Daytona that is more coveted than the “Rainbow” models that bring a meticulously designed and eye-catchingly beautiful assortment of colorful precious stones to the bezel, case, and dial of the motorsport-inspired luxury chronograph. Here is the story behind the Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” and why it has become yet another smash hit for the Crown in the 21st Century.  To start off, it’s worth answering the question, “Why is the Rolex Daytona so famous in the first place?” The model’s success story begins in 1962, when Rolex, hot on the heels of other genre-defining watch releases like the Explorer, GMT-Master, and Submariner several years earlier, became the official timekeeper of the “Great American Race,” the Daytona 500. In celebration of the partnership, the Swiss brand introduced its original “Cosmograph” racing-inspired chronograph watch the following year. The watch, notable for its tachymeter bezel and three-register dial design, adopted the name “Daytona” shortly thereafter and really took the enthusiast community by storm when actor, director, and part-time racecar driver Paul Newman began wearing one regularly. Newman became a big-screen icon in the 1970s, around the same time that auto racing took off in popularity as a spectator sport, and this confluence of...

Pedals and Precision: Tudor Pro Cycling at the Grand Prix Cycliste de Québec Worn & Wound
Tudor Pro Cycling Sep 18, 2025

Pedals and Precision: Tudor Pro Cycling at the Grand Prix Cycliste de Québec

Québec City carries its history on every corner-stone walls, cobblestones, cafés spilling into narrow streets. For a few days in September, it also carried the buzz of race bikes and the weight of a UCI WorldTour peloton. Tudor brought us here to see their Pro Cycling team take on the Grand Prix Cycliste de Québec. The race is unusual compared to most on the calendar. Instead of rolling through countryside, the riders loop through Old Québec, climbing and descending the same punishing circuit until it breaks them. Crowds lean over barricades, the sound of cheers bouncing off limestone walls as the peloton flashes past again and again. Our trip began with a chance to meet the Tudor Pro Cycling riders. They rolled in straight from training, relaxed but sharp, already thinking about the course. Later, in the subterranean car park beneath Hotel 71, we were shown the workshop: rows of bikes worth thousands apiece, mechanics tuning, polishing, preparing. A hidden paddock carved out of concrete, the quiet backbone of the sport. Dinner that evening was with Tudor and a handful of other journalists at Laurie Raphaël. It was polished dining, but the conversation stayed grounded-how a team operates at this level, what it means to link a watch brand with a sport that demands grit and repetition. FXD watches at the table looked at home: tough, precise, made for use. Race day carried a nervous hum. The morning was cool, the sun cutting through by midday. From Tudor’s hospital...

First Look – The new Bell & Ross BR-X3 Collection (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Bell & Ross BR-X3 Collection Incl Video Sep 17, 2025

First Look – The new Bell & Ross BR-X3 Collection (Incl. Video)

Ready for take-off…? There’s a new chapter in the flight instrument collection by Bell & Ross and it’s named the BR-X3. While the Parisian brand’s history goes back to 1992, B&R; is mostly known for its striking aviation-inspired watches, following the launch of the BR-01 in 2005. Sometimes design-oriented, sometimes functional, but almost always linked […]

The Hermès H08 Gets Two New Light And Urban Styles Fratello
Hermes Sep 13, 2025

The Hermès H08 Gets Two New Light And Urban Styles

The Hermès H08 is a remarkable success story. Emerging from the traditional and complex designs of the maison’s catalog, the cushion-shaped H08 in titanium seamlessly cut through the crowd. And the sports-watch segment is indeed crowded. Yet, the H08 takes the history of the brand’s multifaceted design approach and boils it down into a wearable […] Visit The Hermès H08 Gets Two New Light And Urban Styles to read the full article.

First Look – The new Grand Seiko Sunrise Tentagraph Limited Edition SLGC006 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Sunrise Tentagraph Limited Edition Sep 10, 2025

First Look – The new Grand Seiko Sunrise Tentagraph Limited Edition SLGC006

Released in 2023, the Tentagraph was Grand Seiko’s first-ever mechanical chronograph… I know, it sounds weird for a brand with about 65 years of history, but all of its chronographs used to be based on a Spring Drive architecture (calibres 9R86 and 9R96) until the launch of the SLGC001. Using the Evolution 9 platform, the Tentagraph […]

Is The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” A Perfect Summer Watch? Fratello
Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Sep 8, 2025

Is The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” A Perfect Summer Watch?

When Tudor released a new “Lagoon Blue” take on the Black Bay 54, I knew I had to get my hands on it. You see, Tudor is a brand I keep coming back to. Unlike Rolex, which pursues constant iterative improvement above all else, Tudor seems to get more leeway to experiment and play with […] Visit Is The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” A Perfect Summer Watch? to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Louis Moinet 1806 Chronomètre d’Observatoire Monochrome
Louis Moinet Sep 6, 2025

Introducing – The New Louis Moinet 1806 Chronomètre d’Observatoire

The year 1806 marks an important moment in Louis Moinet’s history, when the master watchmaker created a clock for Napoleon Bonaparte, a landmark commission that symbolised both prestige and ambition. It is after this date that the brand names its latest creation, the 1806 Chronomètre d’Observatoire, reaffirming its historic importance and renewing its pursuit of […]

First Look – The Zenith Defy Chronograph USM, A 1960s Design Icon Reimagined Monochrome
Zenith Defy Chronograph USM Sep 4, 2025

First Look – The Zenith Defy Chronograph USM, A 1960s Design Icon Reimagined

The year 1969 is etched in Zenith’s history as the birth of El Primero, the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph calibre. It was also the debut year of the Defy, a rugged sports watch nicknamed the “vault” for its robust construction and avant-garde angular design. Over the past few years, Zenith has revisited these late-1960s […]

The Greatest Collectors of All Time: Henry Graves Jr. – The Banker Who Commissioned Complex and Innovative Watches Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication considered Sep 2, 2025

The Greatest Collectors of All Time: Henry Graves Jr. – The Banker Who Commissioned Complex and Innovative Watches

Henry Graves Jr. (1868–1953) was a prominent American banker and art collector, most famous for his passion for collecting timepieces. He is best known for commissioning some of the most complex and innovative watches ever made, including the Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication, considered one of the most significant and expensive timepieces in horological history. Graves was born on the 11th of March 1868 in Orange, New Jersey, in the United States of America. The Graves family was a prominent and wealthy banking family. His father, Henry Graves Sr. (1838–1906), was a co-founder and partner in the Maxwell & Graves banking firm. They engaged in the railroad and financial services industries and Henry Graves, Jr. continued the family legacy of financial services expertise as an investment banker. The company operates today under the name M&G; Solutions which was founded by the great-great-grandson of Henry Graves Jr. They use an image of the Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication in their logo signifying the ‘&’ symbol paying tribute to his relative’s interest in watches (below). Graves was known primarily for his legendary watch collection which stemmed from his status as a wealthy financier who appreciated fine craftsmanship and luxury items. He was also an avid collector of art, reflecting his refined taste, acquiring items of significant cultural and historical value.  Henry Graves Jr.’s interest in watches stemmed from his status as a weal...