Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: An All-Blue F.P. Journe, A Dressy Jaeger-LeCoultre, And An Underrated Olympic Diver From OMEGA
Five of our favorites in the HODINKEE Shop this week.
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Revolution
Introducing the Massena LAB x Luca Soprana “Old School”
Devoid of excess, Old School is solid, sober and austere, a simple time-only watch that brims with precision in reading and hand-crafted detail.
SJX Watches
Massena Lab Introduces the Old School by Luca Soprana
Following a slew of affordable, vintage-inspired watches, with several made by Habring2, Massena Lab has moved decidedly upmarket with the Old School. The time-only wristwatch retains a typical of the American watch-design studio – once again vintage inspired with a sector-like dial – but boasts a significantly more refined finishing. The model name is a play on words – a reference to its classical design but also the watch is meant to evoke a montre d’école, or “school watch” in English, the graduation project of a watchmaking student. Despite the academic inspiration, the Old School is the work of an experienced watchmaker, Luca Soprana, who cofounded Ateliers 7h38, the complication workshop best known for the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon. Initial thoughts Massena Lab founder William Rohr is an industry veteran – amongst other things he’s been managing director of Antiquorum Switzerland and consultant to Bonhams – who has cultivated a sharp eye for design an details. Mr Rohr also has a finger on the current pulse of watch collecting, and the Old School unsurprisingly encapsulates what many enthusiasts currently desire. The design and movement feature traditional elements that are popular now. It’s not meant to be an intriguing or creative product – it is old school after all – but instead a simple watch executed well. One element that illustrates Mr Massena’s keen eye is the dial. The simple design has just enough flair to make it attrac...
Revolution
3 Mistakes You’re Making with Your Watch
“How hard can owning and wearing a watch be? Well, you’re probably doing just fine to be honest, however it’s worth running you buy these little mistakes that a surprising number of watch enthusiasts make, just to be sure.
Time+Tide
Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon in Pink Gold
Some would suggest that the perfect dress watch has a long list of criteria. Less than 40mm, no complications, made from a precious metal, thin, etc. Although this framework is a good recipe, there should definitely be room for bending the rules, and the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon in Pink Gold is a … ContinuedThe post Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon in Pink Gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Only Watch 2021: F.P. Journe, H. Moser & Cie, And Urwerk Unique Pieces On Auction (Video)
Our pals at The Watches TV went hands on with three of the unique timepieces on offer at the upcoming Only Watch 2021, which takes place on November 6, 2021. The unique watches featured are the F.P. Journe x Francis Ford Coppola FFC Blue, the Moser Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Only Watch, and the Urwerk UR-102 Gaïa. Enjoy this rare treat!
Hodinkee
Snuck Into Space - Hodinkee Magazine
The daughter of astronaut Jerry Carr says she has a Movado that rewrites horological history.
Revolution
Introducing MB&F; LM Perpetual EVO in Titanium
MB&F;’s landmark Legacy Machine Perpetual, the award-winning perpetual calendar created for MB&F; by Stephen McDonnell, takes on an ebullient new lease of life forged from lightweight and industrially resilient zirconium.
SJX Watches
Up Close: IWC Big Pilot Ref. 5003 “Markus Bühler”
One of the most distinctive Big Pilot’s Watches IWC has ever made is also one of the least known – and even perhaps the rarest model ever. Named after its creator, the Big Pilot’s Watch Edition “Markus Bühler” ref. 5003 was conceived by a then apprentice at IWC and subsequently made it into production, but as a tiny limited edition of only a dozen watches. The fundamentals of the Markus Bühler edition are simple – a gently-modified Unitas 6498 – but the look effectively conveys the purpose of design. With the “turbines” on the front and back, it is unmistakably a pilot’s watch. Initial thoughts When I first saw the Big Pilot Markus Bühler at the time of its launch in 2008, I thought it was silly. Despite being a limited edition, the Big Pilot “Turbine” was a downgrade from the standard Big Pilot’s Watch, going from the impressive, in-house cal. 5000 with a seven-day power reserve to a Unitas, albeit one with unusual, asymmetric striping on the bridges. But I was wrong. The simple yet effective concept – and its intrinsic aesthetic appeal – means the Markus Bühler has grown on me. I rank it amongst the most notable Big Pilots ever. Its appeal lies in the fact that the design is straightforward and symmetrical, with minimal modification to the original Big Pilot dial, save for the seconds. The dial design was the work of Gerd Plange, who’s been part of the IWC design team since 2001. During the period when he designed the “turbine” d...
Revolution
Available in the Shop: 4 IWC Pilot’s Watches Ready for Flight
IWC’s Pilot’s Watch family has a long, rich tradition of precision military timekeepers dating back to 1936. From the iconic Mark XI to the revival in the 90s, aviation watches are defined by their legibility and reliability. That’s something that holds true today, whether you’re talking about a modern Top Gun chronograph or a hit limited edition like the Mark XVIII ‘Tribute to Mark XI’.
Revolution
Jaeger-LeCoutre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel Hidden Treasures Collection
Jaeger-LeCoutre introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel Hidden Treasures Collection, featuring the works of three celebrated artists from the early days of Modern Art
Time+Tide
Spike Lee & Artisans De Genève Part 2: The Cool Hand Brooklyn Skeleton
Custom. A word rarely used in the world of horology. The watches we wear, by and large, are the results of someone else’s designs. Someone else’s passions. We buy into their vision of what works. And even when we do have a say, as one may see with a piece unique, we’re still limited to … ContinuedThe post Spike Lee & Artisans De Genève Part 2: The Cool Hand Brooklyn Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
5 Unique Watches With Tourbillons At Only Watch 2021
That the tourbillon hasn't lost any of its appeal in this new era of wristwatches becomes crystal clear at Only Watch 2021. The mechanical ballet of the tourbillon remains mesmerizing and highly appreciated by watch connoisseurs. Here are five very special examples that you can bid on in the upcoming Only Watch auction taking place on November 6, 2021.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The IWC x Hot Wheels Racing Works Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition
While many people around the world are passionate about watches, they are generally not their sole obsessions. Within our community, many are also enamoured with all manner of other things ranging from whiskey to baseball. But one area of interest that that seems to overlap with watches a great deal is that of motorsports. While … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC x Hot Wheels Racing Works Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
What the interview with the Seiko president could mean for the brand’s future
In many ways, the goings-on of a watch brand are heavily guarded secrets to us collectors. Yes, we can guesstimate what is happening behind those large manufacture doors but, really, we have no clue. That is, of course, until someone spills the beans. Maybe it’s someone from public relations or a Powerpoint presentation leaked from … ContinuedThe post What the interview with the Seiko president could mean for the brand’s future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon collection expands with stunning dial variations
In 2020, we all gushed over the Master Control series that Jaeger-LeCoultre had given a facelift. They were clean, endearing and simple in a way that could never come close to being boring. In 2021, we’re treated to an expansion of another old favourite in the Master Ultra Thin Moon, with that first black dial … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon collection expands with stunning dial variations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
We are so besotted with our “Night Surfer” Zenith, and this video shows why (and it proves Andrew’s in 🇨🇭 too)
Andrew’s note: Hi, and greetings from Neuchâtel, Switzerland! It’s not like I needed to prove that I’m here (after all, Zenith totally outed me on their Instagram with a super-fun interview with me and CEO Julien Tornare), but it’s more a case of being so stoked about it, I’m taking every chance to catch it … ContinuedThe post We are so besotted with our “Night Surfer” Zenith, and this video shows why (and it proves Andrew’s in 🇨🇭 too) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the G-SHOCK GMW-B5000TVA-1 in Matte Black Titanium
Casio’s latest G-SHOCK is a full titanium model inspired by powered suits of virtual reality.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation
Most familiar with its metallic, forest-green dial, the modern-day Seiko Alpinist is a mid-range model that’s long been a crowd-favourite for its distinctive design and affordability. But today’s Alpinist with its distinctive twin crowns, a design introduced in 1998, couldn’t be further from the original Laurel Alpinist that debuted over half a century ago as a sports watch catered to mountaineers. The original Alpinist of 1959. Photo – Seiko Seiko has successful grown the current Alpinist line up to encompass a diversity of models – all of which feature alternating Arabic and arrowhead hour markers – but finally returned to the original design of 1959 with a quartet of vintage-inspired reissues that were launched earlier in the year. Amongst the four, the standout is the Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation (ref. SJE085 or SBEN001), which is almost a like-for-like reissue (the other remakes are more loosely based on the original and officially known “Re-interpretations”). Most closely resembling the vintage original, the Alpinist Re-creation is the flagship model of the remakes, having a more elaborate execution as well as a higher-end movement. A cool “Bund” style strap with zigzag stitching evokes the strap on the 1959 original Initial thoughts The Alpinist Re-creation is an appealing little watch that’s almost straight out of a 1950s watch catalogue – save for the date window – thanks to the smallish 36.6 mm case and retro-style dial. It certa...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula SuperSport brings real Super-compressor Diver funtionality
Super-compressor styled divers exist in many microbrand catalogues. The wearability of the design and the integration of the timing bezel are two of the main reasons they are so popular. However, many of these examples lack the real functionality their vintage-inspired references had. That’s why when a brand goes to the extra lengths to create … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula SuperSport brings real Super-compressor Diver funtionality appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
You Are There: Attending The Jaeger-LeCoultre Sound Maker Exhibition In New York City
When Brendan Cunningham learned of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Sound Maker exhibition in New York, he quickly decided to attend and participate in the accompanying Atelier d’Antoine, a 1.5-hour workshop to discover why watches go "tick tock" and how time can be expressed. He shares his experiences here.
Deployant
Six recommendations for a discontinued pre-owned watch to buy
For Throwback Sunday this week, we thought we'd take a look at the pre-owned watch market and recommend 6 discontinued of the best.
Time+Tide
The Pink Dial Project Auction Lot Overview: The big box brands
Whenever an auction catalogue is released, many collectors scavenge through the lots to find unique or prototype pieces. Whether a piece unique, or watch #00, the pieces present ultra-rare finds for bidders – and, as we all know too well, ultra rare equals super collectible. But what if there was an auction entirely comprised of … ContinuedThe post The Pink Dial Project Auction Lot Overview: The big box brands appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
What Defines A Handmade Mechanical Watch In The Modern World? – Reprise
To this day, when most people think about luxury watches they picture a wizened, white-haired man in a white lab coat bent over a workbench against the backdrop of snowy Alps busily filing away at watch parts. It’s a lovely picture, but not very representative of the modern – or even necessarily traditional – watch industry as Elizabeth Doerr explains here.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Two new Grand Seiko Sport Collection Automatic GMTs (and why I immediately bought one)
You ever wish a watch brand does something and then it actually happens? Not some slightly related version of your wish but the actual thing. It’s such an amazing feeling, that for a moment in time it feels like you and the brand are perfectly in sync (almost like they are directly responding to a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Two new Grand Seiko Sport Collection Automatic GMTs (and why I immediately bought one) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Extra-Large “Dubai Watch Club”
A collectors’ club based in the United Arab Emirates, Dubai Watch Club recently announced the latest special edition for its members. Based on the largest version of the Cartier wristwatch launched last year, the Santos-Dumont Extra-Large “Dubai Watch Club” is a distinctive new take on the classic design. Featuring a salmon dial inspired by the Santos-Dumont 90th Anniversary limited edition of 1994, the Dubai Watch Club version features Eastern Arabic hour numerals as is tradition for special editions made for the region. Initial thoughts A large but elegant watch, the Santos-Dumont XL is appealing in its original form, albeit looking very much like a classical Cartier. The Dubai Watch Club edition injects novelty into the design without doing too much. In fact, the only changes to the watch are the dial colour and hands, although Breguet hands were historically found on many Cartier models. But the best feature of the dial is the colour of the numerals, which are rendered in a dark red that was meant to mimic Cartier’s house colour. Notably, red numerals were traditionally found only on platinum watches, while the Dubai Watch Club edition is steel. The case material means the special edition is an easily affordable US$7,500, but that’s a moot point as the watch is available only to members of Dubai Watch Club. Dubai style Founded by local collector Adel Al Rahmani, Dubai Watch Club has some 120 members in its ranks. The club has commissioned a handful of speci...
Deployant
Explainer: the new Louis Moinet Space Revolution
We take a comprehensive first look at the new Louis Moiner Space Revolution. A watch which is currently a candidate at the category of “Tourbillon” at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) 2021. Based on one to one discussions with Jean-Marie Schaller, owner and creative director of Louis Moinet, using press release photographs. FirstRead More
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R
A variant of a longstanding reference in the Patek Philippe catalogue, the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R-011 is only set apart by its slate-grey dial, but unusual nonetheless – it’s the sole model in Patek Philippe’s Grand Complications collection in that colour, where the predominant colours are silver, blue, black, and a splash of salmon. Initial thoughts Historically the split-seconds seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar in gold was often paired with a silver dial. But as the new World Time Chronograph ref. 5930P illustrates, Patek Philippe is continuing to add new colours into the regular catalogue, instead of reserving them for limited editions or special orders. The rose gold version of this reference is already available with a black dial as the ref. 5204/1R, but matched with a weighty and flashy rose gold bracelet. The new ref. 5204R in contrast is a relatively low key watch, which will appeal to anyone who wants a “Grand Complication” that’s, well, low key. The colour palette of the new ref. 5204R is a familiar because it works well. This makes the ref. 5204R the most appealing version of the model currently available; it is certainly more striking than the conservative model with a silver dial. That said, I do wish Patek had taken the opportunity to redesign the dial slightly, perhaps with slimmer hands and a moon phase display on the top of the lower register. As it is, the moon phase display leaves the dial bottom he...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Chronograph Ref. 5930P
Patek Philippe just launched a trio of new chronographs, all variants of existing models. While the ref. 5905/1A in steel is the most affordable, the World Time Chronograph ref. 5930P-001 is surely the most striking with its emerald-green guilloche dial (which is a brighter shade than the olive green of the ref. 5905/1A or Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014). And despite a dial colour that’s novel for a world-time model, the ref. 5930P does hark back to historical world-time watches with its silver cities ring. Initial thoughts The ref. 5930P is only a different take on an existing model, but it’s certainly a vivid new look. Past versions of the ref. 5930 were either subdued (which was the original in blue) or too much (the Singapore edition in red). The ref. 5930P in emerald green appears striking but just right. A key point of appeal is the silver world-time ring that gives it a look that more closely resembles vintage world time watches, which is a good thing for anyone who appreciates historical Patek Philippe design. This contrasts with earlier versions of the ref. 5930, both of which had tone-on-tone world-time rings, making them less prominent. Notably, Patek Philippe historically utilised such bright colours only on limited editions, so the ref. 5930P is an unusual watch amongst the standard offerings. That said, with green being the most fashionable colour of the year, it goes without saying that the ref. 5930P will be mostly unavailable for the near future. Emerald g...
Revolution
Contemporary Classics at Monaco Legend Group
Modern, classic watchmaking has never been more in demand than at the current time. Whether an intriguing creation by an independent watchmaker or highly in demand modern piece by one of the goliath brands, we are witnessing what could be termed hyper-demand for rare and interesting watches.