Deployant
High End Bicycles: new Specialized S-Works Shiv Disc
This week, we continue with our presentation of high end bicycles. This time, the new limited edition Specialized S-Works Shiv Disc bicycle.
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SJX Watches
David Candaux Introduces the Streamlined DC7 Genesis
David Candaux established his eponymous brand with the 1740 Half Hunter, a watch with several exotic features that made it decidedly unconventional, especially for a watchmaker located in the traditional heart of Swiss watchmaking, the village of Le Solliat in the Vallee de Joux. Now Mr Candaux is following up with something more concise, the DC7 Genesis. The DC7 still preserves many of the novel elements of the original model – like the inclined-balance tourbillon – but presents them in a streamlined manner. Initial thoughts For someone who appreciated the technical merits of David Candaux’s first wristwatch, but found it too fancy, the DC7 is ideal. The DC7 remains unusual in both design and construction, but inches closer to the conventional end of the scale. The cleaner and simpler design make the DC7 easier to digest. Though streamlined, the DC7 still retains the watchmaker’s signature features, including the vertically-symmetrical case, telescopic crown, and inclined-balance tourbillon. More broadly, the watch is composed of inclined surfaces – the dial and movement bridges are both inclined, making it instantly recognisable as a David Candaux creation. At the same time, the movement is finished differently from the original model, and slightly less intricate, but still appears to be done to a similarly high standard. Importantly, the simpler mechanics make it more affordable. At about US$150,000 in titanium, the DC7 is not quite a value buy, but it’...
SJX Watches
Gorilla Debuts First Chronograph, a Skeleton in Ceramic and Titanium
Founded just five years ago, Gorilla has already established a distinct house style, born of the its two founders’ eye for design. Notably, one of the founders, Octavio Garcia, was design chief at Audemars Piguet for over a decade. The latest from the brand is reassuringly familiar, channeling the style of its inaugural model, but a major step up in terms of form, function, and price – the Fastback Thunderbolt Chronograph. Equipped with a smartly skeletonised dial, it’s the brand’s first chronograph but retains with Gorilla’s recognisable case style. The case is multi-material: a ceramic bezel, followed by an anodised aluminium ring, and then a black-coated titanium case middle and back Initial thoughts Gorilla’s past offerings have been appealing for several reasons. Though evocative of some other well-known designs, its watches are original and handsome – a rare sight at the US$800 price range – and they are usually executed in unusual combinations of materials like titanium and ceramic. At the same time, the brand managed to make uncommon complication relatively affordable, namely the wandering hours display that’s most famously associated with Urwerk and Audemars Piguet in modern watchmaking. The latest offering is an extension of the brand’s strengths. Despite being its first chronograph, the Fastback Thunderbolt Chronograph is well put together, having a skeletonised front that’s intricate in detail and rich in colour that manages to pres...
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer revives the mythical Monaco “Dark Lord” for Only Watch
Any fan of racing chronographs should be familiar with the Heuer Monaco “Dark Lord”. Introduced in 1974, this mythical all-black Monaco was clad in a PVD coating and powered by a hand-wound Valjoux 7740. Only a very small run of the “Dark Lord” watches were produced, making it amongst the most valuable Heuer watches today. … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer revives the mythical Monaco “Dark Lord” for Only Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
To New Depths: Tissot Seastar 2000
Tissot introduces a high-performance dive watch aimed to meet the needs of the professional saturation diver with an impressive array of technical features.
Time+Tide
What watch does a veteran crocodile hunter (with only three fingers) wear?
What sort of watch does a veteran Aussie crocodile hunter wear? Well, Northern Territory Problem Crocodile Management wildlife officer Tom Nichols (how’s that for a job title by the way), caught a record 352 crocodiles in 2020, and in this intriguing story and short film from ABC News he explains how he goes about hunting … ContinuedThe post What watch does a veteran crocodile hunter (with only three fingers) wear? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
What Is A Resonance Movement? The Watches TV And Armin Strom Explain (Video)
The Watches TV goes deep into explaining a resonance movement in an easy way. The quick answer to the question of what resonance is in horological terms is that it encompasses two independent escapements in one watch that influence each other to average out timing errors. This video brings horological resonance to life and makes it easy to understand.
Time+Tide
Longines steps up their customer care with an increased five year warranty
Longines have made a strong move to increase customer loyalty, while also underlining the inherent value of their Swiss craftsmanship. From next month, the brand has announced that it’s extending their warranty on all models equipped with a silicon balance-spring. The new five-year warranty will be valid for all automatic models purchased (not produced) after … ContinuedThe post Longines steps up their customer care with an increased five year warranty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Doxa Sub 200 Whitepearl Is Anything But Vanilla
A new color for an already vibrant line of dive watches.
Deployant
Also new: More A. Lange & Söhne releases: Langematic Perpetual and Saxonia Thin
Lange also released new variants to the Langematic Perpetual Calendar and the Saxonia Thin as part of their Summer novelty releases. Details with prices.
SJX Watches
Seiko 5 Contest Winner Makes it into Production
Announced by Seiko almost a year ago, the Custom Watch Beatmaker was an online contest to design the brand’s next sports watch. Seiko just unveiled the winner – which has been brought to life as a limited edition – the Seiko 5 Sports Custom Watch Beatmaker 2021. A surprisingly clean design, the winner has a gold dial circled by a “Pepsi” bezel. It was one of about 50,000 submissions, but it won by a surprisingly large margin of 8.5 million votes out of a 16 million-vote total – possibly due to a group effort by a forum dedicated to Seiko. Initial thoughts The Custom Watch Beatmaker contest was in many ways an official acknowledgment of the Seiko “mods” community that pursue aftermarket customisation of Seiko watches. It’s uncommon for a big brand to do so, though the contest was centred on the Seiko 5 Sports, the brand’s entry-level mechanical watch. But Seiko itself has changed the landscape since the contest was announced in October 2020. The brand has since launched numerous Seiko 5 Sports “crossover” editions featuring Japanese pop-culture themes, resulting in watches far from the average Seiko 5. In comparison, the contest edition seems less special, at least from an aesthetic perspective, since it’s basically rearranged the colours of a few elements instead of being an all-new design. Still, compared to the regular-production Seiko 5 Sports, the Beatmaker edition stands out. The gold, sunburst dial on a dive-style watch is uncommon, not to...
Time+Tide
The Tudor Black Bay Bronze 58 is the first Tudor I’ve bought in over 5 years, these are the reasons why…
I still clearly and plainly remember the day I first saw a Tudor Black Bay. It happened to be my first ever Basel. The year was 2012, and I should really paint a picture of the minutes leading up to the discovery. Because these were also quite memorable. They were the first moments ever spent … ContinuedThe post The Tudor Black Bay Bronze 58 is the first Tudor I’ve bought in over 5 years, these are the reasons why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin celebrates their creativity with Melbourne exhibition
Vacheron Constantin is one of the oldest manufacturers still producing watches today. A known member of the holy trinity, their timepieces have captured the eyes, hearts, and wrists of the world’s foremost collectors due to their distinct designs and exquisite finishings. Many brands have a tagline that sums up their manufacture, but Vacheron’s motto “one … ContinuedThe post Vacheron Constantin celebrates their creativity with Melbourne exhibition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: A Definitive Deep-Dive On The Freestyle Shark Watch
For a certain generation, the surf-style Shark was the ultimate starter watch. Here, a onetime owner explores the history of his childhood favorite.
Hodinkee
Introducing: It's-A-Me! The TAG Heuer Mario Connected Watch!
The Nintendo legend leaps into the world of smartwatches.
Revolution
Introducing the A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst
Lange unveils the seventh Handwerkskunst watch, the Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst, along with new executions of the Langematik Perpetual & Saxonia Thin
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Brings Back the Langematik Perpetual
One of the biggest surprises amongst A. Lange & Söhne’s mid-year launches is the return of the Langematik Perpetual (the other being a Handwerkskunst in an unusual rectangular case). Launched two decades ago, the Langematik Perpetual is the brand’s longest-lived model – powered by the same movement from the start – though it’s been gradually phased out. Having discontinued the gold and platinum versions, Lange then introduced a limited edition in Honey Gold in 2019, and nothing else – until now. The Langematik Perpetual returns back in style as a pair – with a dark blue dial in either a white or pink gold case. Initial thoughts The reintroduction of the Langematik Perpetual is unexpected, especially given the two-year gap between this and the last version. In fact, that already seemed like a farewell model – it was a limited edition in Honey Gold, the proprietary alloy Lange usually reserved for special occasions, like the recent 175th Anniversary “Homage to F.A. Lange”. But the revival of Langematik Perpetual makes sense from a historical perspective, since 2021 marks the 20th anniversary of the model, which was the brand’s first perpetual calendar and a special one at the time of its launch, being the first perpetual calendar wristwatch with an oversized date display. At the same time, it’s heartening to see the return of an exceptionally fine, automatic movement. The cal. L922.1 “Sax-O-Mat” has an off-centre, almost-micro rotor that is in...
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Unveils the Saxonia Thin Aventurine in Pink Gold
Three months after Watches & Wonders 2021 (where it debuted the Triple Split in pink gold amongst others), A. Lange & Söhne is now back with more new releases, as is now the norm with watch fairs having gone online. Of the trio of new launches, the Saxonia Thin is the simplest, but no less striking. Clad in lively, blue aventurine glass and pink gold, the watch has a rich, sparkly aesthetic quite antithetical to the fuss-free style usually associated with the German watchmaker. Initial thoughts While flourishes like the aventurine-glass dial are uncommon for Lange in general, the sparkly glass dial is not new. In fact, the material was first used in the white gold Saxonia Thin back in 2017. The brand followed up with the same but with a black aventurine-glass dial last December, and then the pair of Little Lange 1 Moon Phase earlier this year. That’s four models with aventurine glass dials in as many years. The new model is a first, in that it matches the blue aventurine-glass dial with a pink gold case, giving the watch a warm aesthetic not found in earlier versions, or even the broader catalogue where the combination of pink gold and blue is found only on the recent Triple Split. This is no doubt a good news for collectors that already have everything from the brand and want something different. Still, the frequency of aventurine-glass inevitably chips away at its uniqueness. One nitpick I have about the watch is personal – I find the Saxonia Thin too wide and f...
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Revives the Cabaret Tourbillon in Handwerkskunst Style
Easily the most surprising of the three recent releases by A. Lange & Söhne is something unconventional but familiar – the brand’s flagship rectangular watch that was first released in 2008, but now dressed up in artisanal finery. The Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst is seventh in the eponymous line characterised by artisanal decoration – handwerkskunst translates as “craftsmanship” – and features a hand-engraved lozenge pattern on the front and back, along with a fired enamel dial. Initial Impressions The Cabaret Tourbillon was quite a statement at its launch, being the first wristwatch with a hacking tourbillon – pull the crown and the entire tourbillon assembly stopped – which allowed for more precise setting of the time. But despite its merits, the original Cabaret Tourbillon was never a hot seller, so its revival is likely a one-off. The return of the model is certainly unexpected, since the Cabaret left the catalogue several years ago. The Cabaret quietly faded into obscurity, and the current Lange lineup is focused on round watches. Largely similar in style, but far more elaborate in decoration, the new Handwerkskunst edition is a fitting tribute to the discontinued model. Unlike earlier Handwerkskunst editions that were flashier, the Cabaret is executed more conservatively, with the decorative flourishes typical of Handwerkskunst less apparent. The watch is clearly meant to be appreciated close-up, with the knowledge that the geometric pattern ...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The DOXA SUB 200 Whitepearl is as fresh as an arctic breeze
The SUB 200 is the most contemporary diver’s watch in the retro-tastic arsenal of DOXA. It was already a strong contender to be the ideal summer watch, but such claims are further strengthened by this all-white remix. While the DOXA SUB 200 Whitepearl may be colourless, it’s far from insipid – the feeling it evokes … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The DOXA SUB 200 Whitepearl is as fresh as an arctic breeze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
WA-HOO! TAG Heuer teams up with Nintendo to present the TAG Heuer Connected x Super Mario Limited Edition
WA-HOO! TAG Heuer teams up with Nintendo to present the TAG Heuer Connected x Super Mario Limited Edition of 2000 pcs.The post WA-HOO! TAG Heuer teams up with Nintendo to present the TAG Heuer Connected x Super Mario Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A Complete Newbie Buys Her First Adult Watch
In the third installment of her beginner's column, our correspondent plunks down some cash. Read on to learn what she bought – and what she did when it broke.
Deployant
New: Arnold & Son Globetrotter in gold
Originally released in stainless steel at Baselworld 2018, Arnold & Son now releases the Globetrotter in gold in a limited edition release of 28 pieces.
Revolution
Time Trial: Introducing the Jacques Bianchi JB 200
Wei Koh sits down to talk about the new Jacques Bianchi Diver watch, a re-edition of his 1982 diving watch that was used by the French Navy.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak 34 mm in Black Ceramic
For its second round of new launches for 2021 – after the headline-grabbing Black Panther watch – Audemars Piguet (AP) unveiled Royal Oak models in a range of sizes and complications. The novelties are, in short, gorgeous variations of the brand’s octagonal watch. One of the most notable is the smallest amongst the new models. For the first time, AP is applying the full-ceramic treatment to a smaller Royal Oak. The Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm Black Ceramic is no doubt good news for enthusiasts who want a more compact but unusual version of the simple Royal Oak (availability notwithstanding). Polished and brushed ceramic Initial thoughts While ceramic has long been synonymous with makers of high-end sports watches like AP, it was used sparingly for the Royal Oak, until four years ago when the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Black Ceramic made its debut. But the all-ceramic Royal Oak models since then have been complicated, including a white-ceramic perpetual calendar or the skeletonised double balance. That makes the 34 mm model in black ceramic a pretty big deal – it’s the first base-model Royal Oak in ceramic. But being a Royal Oak, it still feels familiar, which is a good thing if you like the Royal Oak as I do. Despite being amongst the simplest of Royal Oaks, the new 34 mm model is striking. The pink gold accents on the bezel and dial create the right amount of contrast to break up the monochromatic ceramic, giving the black ceramic a touch of luxe. Consequent...
Revolution
Watch Auctions, Unicorns and New-Age Bidders
The latest trends and analyses of the ever-changing watch auction market.
Time+Tide
British MCs Stormzy and Dave are crazy for Audemars Piguet
It’s no secret that British rapper Dave loves his timepieces, indeed he’s become a bit of a Time+Tide favourite when it comes to watch spotting. Ahead of his hugely anticipated sophomore album We’re All Alone in This Together, the lyrical genius took to his Instagram stories this week to announce the first single dropping would … ContinuedThe post British MCs Stormzy and Dave are crazy for Audemars Piguet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Brellum Duobox LE.8 Chronometer artfully balances tradition and modernity
This is not the first time we’ve shown you a watch from Switzerland’s Brellum, an independent brand created in 2016 by fourth generation watchmaker Sébastien Muller. And although this is our Micro Mondays feature, Brellum is really established enough as a small manufacturer to deserve to be called an atelìer, with an exclusive production of … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Brellum Duobox LE.8 Chronometer artfully balances tradition and modernity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Why Romain Gauthier Is The Logical Heir Apparent To Philippe Dufour - Reprise
It’s no secret: GaryG is an immense admirer of Philippe Dufour. Part of greatness, of course, is leaving a legacy; not only through one’s works, but in the skills and inspiration passed on to those who follow, which Dufour has liberally done. But who, if anyone, will history regard as the lineal heir to the Dufour tradition? Gary has reached what may seem a counterintuitive conclusion: Romain Gauthier.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The IWC Big Pilot 43 shrinks in size but not impact
The evolution of an iconic design is interesting. How do designers keep something fresh, without losing the identity that made it an icon in the first place? Be it the iPhone, the Porsche 911 or the Nik Air Jordan sneaker, it’s a challenge that organisations around the world struggle with and this year IWC took … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The IWC Big Pilot 43 shrinks in size but not impact appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.