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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Massena Lab Refreshes the Uni-Racer with Fun Colours SJX Watches
Massena Lab Refreshes Jul 26, 2021

Massena Lab Refreshes the Uni-Racer with Fun Colours

Massena Lab is a design studio that got its start collaborating with independent watchmakers on limited edition timepieces. But the firm more recently unveiled watches under its own label, starting with last year’s Uni-Racer, a chronograph modelled on the mid-20th century Universal Genève “Big Eye” chronograph. Founded by William Rohr, best known for being the former manager of the Timezone.com watch forum, Massena Lab follows up with the Uni-Racer Holiday Collection, a trio of chronographs time clad in funky colours with a retro bent that bring to mind watches of the 1970s. Initial thoughts Vintage remakes have been trendy for several years now, and the sheer number of them mean they are often hit-or-miss. It’s rare for a remake to get the details right ­­– especially since the case and movement are modern ­– something that takes a keen eye to decide what to copy and what to tweak. Mr Rohr’s creations often get the details right – the two-tone sector dial jumping seconds and gilt dial chronograph are cases in point – reflecting his decades of watch collecting. And importantly they are fairly priced. But the Uni-Racer Chronograph stands out from Massena Lab’s portfolio to date. Not only was it the first watch to bear the Massena Lab brand, but it was a near-exact copy of the vintage original – which split opinions and elicited lots of vocal critiques on social media. Uni-Racer “Rally” Still, for anyone who appreciates old-school design, ...

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Custom Watch Beatmaker SRPH19K Time+Tide
Seiko Custom Watch Beatmaker SRPH19K Jul 20, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Custom Watch Beatmaker SRPH19K

When it comes to evaluating a new watch, many of us play the “what if” game. What if the watch had a blue dial? What if it had a grey bezel? The new Seiko Custom Watch Beatmaker SRPH19K puts that idea into action with a new limited-edition design chosen by fans of the brand worldwide. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Custom Watch Beatmaker SRPH19K appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Harry Winston Unveils the Project Z15 SJX Watches
Jul 20, 2021

Harry Winston Unveils the Project Z15

Launched in 2004, the Project Z is Harry Winston’s flagship series within its Ocean line of sports watches, defined by the aluminium-zirconium alloy used for the cases known as Zalium. Traditionally dominated by chronographs and dual time zones, as is typical for a sports watch, the Project Z collection now is now joined by one of the most unusual models to date, the Project Z15. The new model boasts a gently upgraded design and novel mechanics, especially for a sports watch – a regulator-style time display with retrograde seconds, set against a skeletonised dial inspired by New York City’s Art Deco architecture. Initial thoghts Like its elder siblings, the Project Z15 is masculine in style but muted in colour, all about symmetry and clean, geometric lines, which results in a techno-industrial look that’ll appeal to someone who wants an interesting but understated sports watch. The new Z15 is a first for the brand in having a regulator-style display, which means the hours, minutes, and seconds hand indicated on separate axes arranged in a vertical line. The layout is not only vertically symmetrical, it improves readability, as much as possible for an open-worked, regulator dial. Most notable is the retrograde 30-second display, which means the seconds hand returns to zero twice a minute, creating near-constant action on the dial. Interestingly, the skeletonised bridges on the dial finished with a simple, linear graining, giving the face a look that brings to min...

There’s a new Tank in town: The Longines DolceVita adds sector dials to its range Time+Tide
Longines DolceVita adds sector dials Jul 17, 2021

There’s a new Tank in town: The Longines DolceVita adds sector dials to its range

Earlier this year, Longines added two new Art Deco sector dialled automatic watches to their DolceVita Collection. The collection is the brand’s answer to a classically styled Tank-shaped watch. These new iterations translated the design of their Heritage Classic Sector Dial into the more dressy confines of a DolceVita. As the watches have started to … ContinuedThe post There’s a new Tank in town: The Longines DolceVita adds sector dials to its range appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Seiko Presage Studio Ghibli Castle in The Sky offers vintage delights with an animated twist Time+Tide
Seiko Presage Studio Ghibli Castle Jul 17, 2021

The Seiko Presage Studio Ghibli Castle in The Sky offers vintage delights with an animated twist

Studio Ghibli is a Japanese national treasure in the world of anime with a vast output of traditional animated films. Each one is a very Japanese, deeply immersive experience populated by creatures that would never have made it past a Disney focus group and propelled by a decidedly less commercial set of values. The Seiko … ContinuedThe post The Seiko Presage Studio Ghibli Castle in The Sky offers vintage delights with an animated twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The mesmerising dial of the icy blue Grand Seiko SBGY007 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGY007 Grand Seiko has Jul 13, 2021

VIDEO: The mesmerising dial of the icy blue Grand Seiko SBGY007

Grand Seiko has continually dazzled us this past year with a variety of strong releases. Each reference upholds the brand’s grammar of design, a winning formula to produce highly technical and aesthetic timepieces. One of the most well-known designs is the Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake, a modern classic within the catalogue. But while revered, some … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The mesmerising dial of the icy blue Grand Seiko SBGY007 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The IWC Big Pilot 43 shrinks in size but not impact Time+Tide
IWC Big Pilot 43 shrinks Jul 11, 2021

HANDS-ON: The IWC Big Pilot 43 shrinks in size but not impact

The evolution of an iconic design is interesting. How do designers keep something fresh, without losing the identity that made it an icon in the first place? Be it the iPhone, the Porsche 911 or the Nik Air Jordan sneaker, it’s a challenge that organisations around the world struggle with and this year IWC took … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The IWC Big Pilot 43 shrinks in size but not impact appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The IWC Big Pilot 43 gives an iconic watch a modern upgrade Time+Tide
IWC Big Pilot 43 gives Jul 9, 2021

VIDEO: The IWC Big Pilot 43 gives an iconic watch a modern upgrade

The IWC Big Pilot is not quite so big anymore. That’s right, the new IWC Big Pilot 43 is now a full 3mm smaller in diameter compared to the previous 46mm generation, but doesn’t lose any of the impact that it has on the wrist. The iconic pilot’s watch has been updated to become more … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The IWC Big Pilot 43 gives an iconic watch a modern upgrade appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Minase Divido Urushi Maki-e is a futuristic window to an ancient Japanese craft Time+Tide
Minase Jul 1, 2021

The Minase Divido Urushi Maki-e is a futuristic window to an ancient Japanese craft

At a time when most people gravitate towards modern sports watches or the tempting flavours of vintage nostalgia, there’s a path less crowded, where you will find small manufacturers like Minase. With a round two-piece watch case like few others, Zaratsu-finished angles, and sharp Japanese design, The Minase Divido Urushi Maki-e, is a fascinating world … ContinuedThe post The Minase Divido Urushi Maki-e is a futuristic window to an ancient Japanese craft appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Seiko Presage Style 60’s is a slick everyday watch with a dapper edge Time+Tide
Seiko Presage Style 60’s Jun 30, 2021

VIDEO: The Seiko Presage Style 60’s is a slick everyday watch with a dapper edge

The new Seiko Presage Style 60’s range may be initially confusing. The inspiration lies in their 1964 Seiko Crown Chronograph, except that this new imagining doesn’t have a chrono pusher or a stopwatch function at all. Instead we have a slim, stylish interpretation in a three-hand elegant 40.8mm case, and all the right vintage cues. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Seiko Presage Style 60’s is a slick everyday watch with a dapper edge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Introduces the Next-Generation El Primero A386 SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jun 29, 2021

Zenith Introduces the Next-Generation El Primero A386

Though Zenith celebrated the 50th anniversary of its iconic chronograph movement in 2019, it took a while longer for the long-awaited successor to the original El Primero. Looking like yet another remake on the surface – the design is almost a dead ringer for the A386 of 1969 – the retro styling of the new Chronomaster Original belies the latest-generation El Primero, the all-new cal. 3600 that boasts a lightning seconds hand. Initial thoughts The Chronomaster Original essentially repackages the vintage A386, preserving the distinctive design while installing a modern movement. As a result, the watch is familiar and appealing in broad strokes, but has a few surprises in its details. Take the dials for instance, which are offered in two guises. One is the traditional “tri-colour” from 1969, while the other is an unusual and gorgeous “panda” dial that stands out from its counterparts. Ironically, the black-and-silver dial looks more retro, in part due to the faux-vintage lume, despite not having the original colour palette. The case is a compact 38 mm, identical to the vintage original. It’s heartening – but surprising – to see the return of the 38 mm case, which was ostensibly retired not too long ago. The move back to the 38 mm case makes sense, since it accommodates enthusiasts who prefer a size true to the vintage original, as well as catering to prevailing fad for classical, elegant style. Despite the case being the same diameter as it was in 1969, t...

Seiko Introduces the Presage Studio Ghibli with an Enamel Dial SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Jun 28, 2021

Seiko Introduces the Presage Studio Ghibli with an Enamel Dial

Seiko has long incorporated Japan’s unique pop culture into its watches – from Gundam to Street Fighter – and now it’s turned to the legendary anime film studio behind hits like Spirited Away. The Presage Studio Ghibli Castle In The Sky is inspired by the 1986 anime film about a pair of children protecting a magic crystal from government agents. Despite the cartoon inspiration, the new Presage has a classical design with Breguet hands, a fired-enamel dial – and no date window. Initial thoughts The Castle in the Sky edition gets a few things right. It combines a few specialties of Seiko – the fired enamel dial, Japanese pop culture, and a modern, workhorse movement – all for under US$1,500. That said, the mid-range price is novel for a collaborative model in this vein, since the brand’s earlier crossover editions were either priced substantially higher (as a Grand Seiko) or lower (a Seiko 5). Also notable is the no-date dial. While Seiko has long offered enamel dials in affordable watches, it usually installs a date function on the three-hand models, perhaps a concession to the brand’s focus on fuss-free practicality for its watches. Leaving out the date is not only significant from a philosophical standpoint – perhaps it’s an admission the design matters more than its utility – but the omission of a date aperture makes for a higher quality look. The date window never looked good, especially since the aperture revealed the relatively rough edges...

The new Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis collection is spectacular watchmaking in a blaze of colour Time+Tide
Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis collection Jun 26, 2021

The new Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis collection is spectacular watchmaking in a blaze of colour

Hublot seldom disappoints when it comes to a summer barrage of colours and materials, and the new MP-09 collection is here to prove the point. Hublot’s MP-series represents the pure spirit of the maison as each is a Manufacture Piece, showcasing the outer limits of materiality and design. To be honest, most of Hublot’s normal … ContinuedThe post The new Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis collection is spectacular watchmaking in a blaze of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 of the best environmentally friendly watches on the market right now Time+Tide
Chopard Jun 26, 2021

5 of the best environmentally friendly watches on the market right now

“Environmentally friendly” isn’t a phrase that immediately comes to mind when you think of the watch industry. Craftsmanship, passion and heritage might be more likely answers in a word association game with your psychologist. But that doesn’t mean that there aren’t parts of the industry that are genuinely doing their bit. Chopard is well-known for … ContinuedThe post 5 of the best environmentally friendly watches on the market right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Habring² x Monochrome Montre de Souscription 1 Time+Tide
Jun 24, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Habring² x Monochrome Montre de Souscription 1

Collaboration watches are all the rage these days. Some scoff at the saturation, but many recognise the value a second eye brings to new designs. Each brand may have their own design DNA, but combining forces can add extra perspective and attention to detail. That is exactly what we have here today with the new … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Habring² x Monochrome Montre de Souscription 1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Endeavour Titanium collection Time+Tide
Jun 20, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Endeavour Titanium collection

After their successful debut collection, RZE are back with their second set of hard-wearing tool watches in the Endeavour collection. Despite releasing their first watches less than a year ago, the RZE Endeavour collection is working to confirm the brand’s young reputation as a manufacturer of bullet-proof everyday watches. With some unique design elements to … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Endeavour Titanium collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Franck Muller Introduces the Skafander Tonneau Diver’s Watch SJX Watches
Richard Mille models But it was Jun 18, 2021

Franck Muller Introduces the Skafander Tonneau Diver’s Watch

Introduced in 2018 but put on hold until recently, the Skafander adapts Franck Muller’s trademark tonneau watch case for a dive watch. Getting its name from “scaphander”, an archaic term for a diving suit, the Skafander has been facelifted just as it reaches stores in both stainless steel or titanium. Initial thoughts Brash and bold watch, the Skafander is much typical of Franck Muller’s current style. At first glance, the design might seem derivative, bringing to mind the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang, and of course various Richard Mille models. But it was Franck Muller that made the tonneau case a thing in contemporary watchmaking with the Cintree Curvex – Cartier, on the other hand, invented the shape in 1906 – so the brand has every right to the shape. In fact, the Cintree Curvex was one of the “it” watches of the 1990s, so successful it arguably inspired all tonneau watches in 21st century watchmaking. Complicated and mechanical in style, the Skafander has a partially open-worked dial, which doesn’t help legibility, but it’s very much the style for modern sport watches. The Skafander manages to set itself apart amongst watches in this genre, by way of its case shape and inner rotating bezel. And priced at about US$15,000 (or 23,800 Singapore dollars), it’s relatively pricey, but on par with comparable dive watches from Hublot. The Skafander in brushed titanium Tonneau case, round bezel The Skafander’s key feature results from matching a rotatin...

The Cartier Crash is officially trending after popping up in Tyler The Creator’s new video Time+Tide
Cartier Crash Jun 16, 2021

The Cartier Crash is officially trending after popping up in Tyler The Creator’s new video

The Cartier Crash is a bit of an enigma in the history of the French brand. The story behind its Salvador Dali-esque design is far-fetched – a Cartier Tank was returned for repair to the London boutique after being in a car crash, the unusual shape the result of the gold melting in the heat … ContinuedThe post The Cartier Crash is officially trending after popping up in Tyler The Creator’s new video appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Longines Heritage Classic sector dial, now available with black dial on bracelet Time+Tide
Longines Heritage Classic sector dial Jun 7, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Longines Heritage Classic sector dial, now available with black dial on bracelet

In 2019, one of the most celebrated watches by the enthusiast community was the Longines Heritage Classic sector dial. The heritage reissue trend was in full flight, with Longines being one of the brands that had ridden the wave the best, and the blend of authentic historical design cues with a relatively affordable price made … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Heritage Classic sector dial, now available with black dial on bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.