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Introducing – A Smooth Bezel on a Hanhart…? Meet the New 417 ES Mocha Flyback Date Monochrome
Nov 6, 2025

Introducing – A Smooth Bezel on a Hanhart…? Meet the New 417 ES Mocha Flyback Date

Hanhart’s roots run deep in the history of mechanical chronographs. Founded in 1882 in Germany’s Black Forest, Hanhart became a mid-20th-century reference for timing instruments. Its stopwatches and pilot chronographs set benchmarks for robustness, legibility, and ergonomics, a legacy carried forward by today’s collections, most notably, the 417 ES. First developed for the German armed […]

Seiko SPB149 Review: The Blue Dial Prospex Diver Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Nov 3, 2025

Seiko SPB149 Review: The Blue Dial Prospex Diver

An outsized part of Seiko’s history is within its dive watch heritage, going all the way back to 1965 with the company's first dedicated diver, the 150-meter 62MAS, released as the 6217-8000, and later, its larger-crowned sibling, the 6217-8001. It was the beginning of a lineage that went on to include legendary references like the Willard, the Turtle, the Marinemaster, the Tuna, and the SKX, just to name a small assortment of them. Today, Seiko’s broad dive-watch lineup is well-known for its rugged dependability: from the entry-level Prospex models to the elevated Luxe variants like the Seiko SPB149, there’s a Seiko diver for every enthusiast. Seiko has paid tribute to the 62MAS design in the past with limited editions, but in the 2020s, the brand has seen a slew of regular-production, and short-lived models – like the SPB143, 239, and 149, which stand as the most faithful renderings of the 62MAS, characterized by the brand as the Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s Watch. Although this model family came with different dial variants at its 40.5mm case size, today, we’re going to showcase the discontinued SPB149 before looking at the current production SPB143 and other modern day options which continue the 62MAS legacy. We will go through the standard points of its case, wear, dial, and movement, and then share concluding remarks about its overall legacy in 2025.  Seiko SPB149 Context In Spring of 2020, Seiko dropped a quartet of watches - the SPB143, SPB145, SPB1...

The Quest: Vacheron Constantin’s 270th-Anniversary Exhibition At Harrods, London Fratello
Vacheron Constantin s 270th-Anniversary Exhibition Oct 30, 2025

The Quest: Vacheron Constantin’s 270th-Anniversary Exhibition At Harrods, London

Within the opulence of Harrods’ luxury London department store is a joyous journey through Vacheron Constantin’s eclectic history. Even by the northeastern entrance is a suspended forced-perspective Maltese Cross with “270” emblazoned upon it. This represents 270 years of Vacheron Constantin’s continuous operation, the longest of any watch brand. Winding through the halls of Harrods […] Visit The Quest: Vacheron Constantin’s 270th-Anniversary Exhibition At Harrods, London to read the full article.

"Are Citizen Watches Good?" In-Depth With The Japanese Brand Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Oct 28, 2025

"Are Citizen Watches Good?" In-Depth With The Japanese Brand

How much do you really know about Citizen Watches, the tough and stylish Promaster collection, the proprietary Eco-Drive technology, and other signature innovations of the Japanese brand, like the exclusive Super Titanium and the recent series of automatic calibers in the luxurious Series 8 models? In this article, we explore the history of Citizen Watch Company from its founding to the modern day and spotlight a dozen notable watches in today’s Citizen collection that have caught the attention of the Teddy Baldassarre team. By the end, you should be much closer to answering the question of whether Citizen watches are good-quality and whether they're for you.  Citizen History and Early Milestones With its very high-tech lineup and avant-garde designs, one might be inclined to think Citizen Watch Company is a relatively new player on the worldwide watch scene. One would be mistaken, however. The company today known as Citizen traces its roots all the way back to 1918, when it was founded as the Shokosha Watch Research Institute by Kamakechi Yamazaki. The name “Citizen” first appeared on the dial of a pocket watch that Shokosha produced in 1924; it is believed to have been suggested by Yamazaki’s close friend Shinpei Goto, then the mayor of Tokyo, who believed such a watch should be universally appealing and accessible to all “citizens” of Japan. Shokosha merged with the Schmid company, a Japan-based manufacturing firm founded by expatriate Swiss watchmaker Rodo...

The Best Cartier Watches For Ladies Teddy Baldassarre
Cartier Oct 27, 2025

The Best Cartier Watches For Ladies

Cartier is a household name, easily crossing the threshold from watch insider (or luxury-object insider) to fully accepted in the broader cultural zeitgeist as a sort of “things dreams are made of” aspirational fare. If Rolex is the man’s peak piece of horological wanting, then by goodness, Cartier occupies an equal space in the minds of women watch buyers. Here we will go through some of the best Cartier ladies' watches. (Yes, of course there are plenty of women who look to Rolex the same way a man does, and vice versa with men and Cartier. The two brands stand shoulder to shoulder as perhaps the most recognizable names in the game.) To achieve the status of being labeled influential in watchmaking is one thing. Very few reach the rarified air of transcending the category altogether. Considering that watches are one of a very few pieces of physical "jewelry" that a man can wear, it’s remarkable that Cartier has been able to carve out a place of legitimate watch enthusiasm for the woman buyer who has far more choices in the category. Granted, Cartier operates in space beyond just watches, unlike the aforementioned Rolex.  Cartier History Becoming the most recognizable name, along with Rolex, in the watch industry, is a feat that Cartier didn’t accomplish overnight.  The luxury jewelry house was founded back in 1847 in Paris, France, by Louis-François Cartier. However, Cartier's rapid ascension as a watchmaker and jeweler came during the third generation of fam...

The Greatest Horological Masterpieces of All Time: the Harrison H4 – A Groundbreaking Timepiece That Solved The Longitude Problem Worn & Wound
Oct 27, 2025

The Greatest Horological Masterpieces of All Time: the Harrison H4 – A Groundbreaking Timepiece That Solved The Longitude Problem

A series of features identifying the most extraordinary mechanical masterpieces in history, blending precision, innovation, and craftsmanship. We all have our favourite timepieces either in our collection or those incredible horological masterpieces that have been invented or created through the ages. This series will showcase examples from the previous centuries up to the present day and look at the importance and impact on modern day timekeeping.  John Harrison’s H4 Chronometer was a groundbreaking timepiece that solved the longitude problem, a major challenge for navigation during the 18th century. Before Harrison’s work, sailors had no reliable way to determine their precise east-west position at sea, leading to deadly navigation errors. The British government, through the Longitude Act of 1714, offered a large prize to anyone who could develop a practical solution. Sir Cloudesley Shovell, by Michael Dahl, about 1702-5 (L); The Association with the Eagle, Rumney and the Firebrand, Lost on the Rocks of Scilly, October 22, 1707 (R). Image courtesy of the © National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London The Catalyst for the Longitude Act In the early 18th century, determining longitude at sea was one of the greatest challenges in navigation. While sailors could measure latitude using the position of the sun or stars, longitude required precise timekeeping-something that was nearly impossible with the unreliable clocks of the time. The inability to determ...

Fratello’s Top 5 Titanium Watches Of Recent Years - Featuring Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith, And More Fratello
Grand Seiko Zenith Oct 24, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Titanium Watches Of Recent Years - Featuring Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith, And More

Another Friday, another list! This week, we’re following up last week’s article about ceramic watches with our favorite titanium ones. After all, it just made sense to dive deeper into the world of modern materials used for watches. While titanium has been around for quite a few decades in the watch world, it’s still considered […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Titanium Watches Of Recent Years - Featuring Rolex, Grand Seiko, Zenith, And More to read the full article.

Christopher Ward Introduces the C63 Sealander Extreme GMT Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces Oct 23, 2025

Christopher Ward Introduces the C63 Sealander Extreme GMT

Just about a year ago, Christopher Ward released the C60 Trident Lumiere, a dive watch that impressed all of us here at Worn & Wound with its styling, bold lume, and easy wearability. Today, they’ve announced what amounts to a spiritual successor to that watch, and a natural evolution of it, the C63 Sealander GMT. With the new C63 Sealander GMT, Christopher Ward has made their version of a no compromises adventure watch in the vein of Rolex Explorers, Omega Planet Oceans, and the like, with, of course, the practicality of a GMT. If you were intrigued by last year’s Trident Lumiere but are after something that’s maybe a bit more tied to land (or air), the C63 Sealander Extreme GMT might be of interest.  It all starts with a 41mm stainless steel case with Christopher Ward’s signature “light catcher” finishing elements, found most prominently along the lugs. Two dial variants are available at launch, a simple black and a military green, both with grained, matte finishes to bolster the tool watch nature of the piece. Each version features a fixed ceramic bezel in black with a 24 hour scale.  But the real star of the show here is the impressive lume treatment on the dial. Once again, Christopher Ward has tapped their partners at Xenoprint, just steps away from their facility in Biel, to create bold blocks of lume to enhance dial legibility, both during the day and at night. The markers, hands, and even the brand’s logo are made up of solid blocks of Globolight l...

Zenith Chronomaster Sport Review: The Modern El Primero Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Oct 15, 2025

Zenith Chronomaster Sport Review: The Modern El Primero

The Zenith Chronomaster Sport debuted back in 2021 and has evolved into one of the brand’s most compelling contemporary chronographs (and that’s saying a lot for Zenith). There was a lot of initial chatter about some similarities to the Rolex Daytona because the collection debuted with a panda and reverse panda dial model with ceramic bezel and, while the comparisons are certainly valid, it does warrant a reminder that the Daytona indeed used to be El Primero-powered. Earlier in 2025, Zenith went all out on the blue theme at this year’s Watches & Wonders in celebration of its 160th anniversary. The star of the show may have been the return of the Caliber 135 in the G.F.J. (see more on that one right here), but the supporting releases didn’t hold back either, boasting bright blue ceramic cases and bracelets. Together, this trio of watches comprise the Zenith 160th anniversary collection, touching on each of the cornerstones of the brand’s modern architecture. The watch I am going to focus on here is the Zenith Chronomaster Sport rendered nearly in its entirety in blue ceramic, showcasing a very different side of the brand’s most popular modern chronograph. Zenith Chronomaster Sport Context The Chronomaster collection has been around since 1994, building on the rather illustrious history of precision timing (outlined in more detail right here) that Zenith is known for. In 2021, Zenith found its modern stride with the release of the Chronomaster Sport with a blac...

Urwerk Introduces the UR-10 SpaceMeter Worn & Wound
Urwerk Introduces Oct 15, 2025

Urwerk Introduces the UR-10 SpaceMeter

Just when you think you know an indie brand, they go ahead and make a watch that looks kind of normal. That was one of the initial thoughts running through my head when the Urwerk team showed us the new UR-10 SpaceMeter during our Geneva Watch Days meeting last month. It is, without question, one of the most confounding releases in the brand’s history. This is a brand that has singlehandedly carved out a niche for themselves with highly technical, futuristic timepieces that employ wandering and satellite hours complications in innovative and unique ways. Their watches are usually not circular, they do not have traditional hands, and they don’t even really have what we’d think of as complications in a traditional sense. But the UR-10 proves that even when a brand has defined a category, there’s still plenty of opportunity to surprise with something new.  The concept of the SpaceMeter is to, unsurprisingly, measure space. That’s a pretty heady concept, but it’s rooted in classical watchmaking that has always been an influence on brand founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei. In the case of the UR-10, the inspiration comes directly from an important clock in Baumgartner’s life, a 19th century pendulum clock signed by Gustave Sandoz. The unusual clock belonged to Baumgartner’s father, and upon taking ownership apparently had little idea of exactly what the subdials were meant to track. After a lot of research, Baumgartner determined that the clock was desig...

Hands-On With The New Longines Ultra-Chron Classic - Honoring The Original High-Beat Ultra-Chron From 1967 Fratello
Longines Ultra-Chron Classic - Honoring Oct 13, 2025

Hands-On With The New Longines Ultra-Chron Classic - Honoring The Original High-Beat Ultra-Chron From 1967

Longines has a long history when it comes to high-frequency movements. Way back in 1910, the company received the first patent for a pocket chronograph featuring such a high-beat movement and capable of measuring 1/10th of a second. In 1959, Longines presented its first wristwatch with a high-frequency movement that only deviated about 1/10th of […] Visit Hands-On With The New Longines Ultra-Chron Classic - Honoring The Original High-Beat Ultra-Chron From 1967 to read the full article.

Le Forban Sécurité Mer Introduces the Marseillaise, a New Diver with a (Very Strange) Rubber Bund Strap Worn & Wound
Oct 9, 2025

Le Forban Sécurité Mer Introduces the Marseillaise, a New Diver with a (Very Strange) Rubber Bund Strap

I love a bit of fashion history, especially when it comes to how our modern clothes came to be. Take, for instance, the high heel. Did you know it was originally designed as a riding shoe in 10th century Persia, in which the heel was made to sit in the stirrup? Or that the jockstrap was originally for “bike jockeys” to help keep things comfortable on old (and presumably not so aerodynamic) bicycles? Or that the Hawaiian shirt, now synonymous with dads at Margaritaville, was first designed using Japanese kimono fabric in the early 1900s? All of that is to say that fashion is ever-evolving and with some quite surprising origins, if you ask me. Another accessory with an interesting – if not murkier –  history is the bund strap. Some say the name comes from the word Bundesrepublik, while others say it’s from Bundeswehr (I try not to split hairs too much in German – as you know, it’s such a forgiving language). Some say the leather strap protected against discoloration of brass watch cases from skin perspiration, while others say it was to protect against the extreme temperature change of the metal for pilots. In any case, we know that a) the design originated among pilots during World War II and b) it’s a badass strap design that often doesn’t get enough attention. Which leads me (finally) to the release of Le Forban Sécurité Mer’s Marseillaise dive watch with a bund-style strap. The French brand has taken its 1979 Monnin model as the springboard (or sho...

First Look – The Oris Big Crown 40mm Pointer Date x Cervo Volante Monochrome
Oris Big Crown 40mm Pointer Oct 7, 2025

First Look – The Oris Big Crown 40mm Pointer Date x Cervo Volante

A classic in Oris’ collection, the Big Crown Pointer Date borrowed features from the brand’s first serially produced pilot’s watch of 1938, including the oversized crown and the pointer date calendar indication. Reintroduced in 1984 by general manager Dr Rolf Portmann on a hunch that nostalgia for mechanical watches with a dash of aviation history […]

The Laureato Fifty is a Milestone for Girard-Perregaux SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre derived calibre found Oct 7, 2025

The Laureato Fifty is a Milestone for Girard-Perregaux

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of its most enduring wristwatch design, Girard-Perregaux (GP) has just unveiled the Laureato Fifty, a watch that highlights the brand’s storied history, while asserting the manufacture‘s place in the current competitive market. As expected, the watch is powered by the brand’s new workhorse calibre GP4800, which makes its official debut here. A limited edition of just 200 pieces, the Laureato Fifty is dressed in a two-tone case of steel and yellow gold, echoing the 1975 original. Though this is a one-off limited edition, it is more than likely that this revised Laureato styling will be implemented across the Laureato line in the coming year. Initial thoughts To understand the Laureato Fifty, we must first consider the era to which it pays tribute. The original design of the Laureato, presented to the world in 1975, appeared right between Gerald Genta’s iconic duo of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, launched in 1972 and 1976, respectively. Compared to these designs, which would come to define the category, the Laureato was different in a few respects.  First, the original design is credited to one of GP’s in-house designers, whose name has been lost to time. Second, the original Laureato was cutting edge at the time with its proprietary, chronometer-certified quartz movement, compared to the ultra-thin automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre-derived calibre found in the Royal Oak (and later, the Nautilus). Turning to...

Rolex Batman vs. Batgirl: Two Iconic GMT-Masters Compared Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Oct 6, 2025

Rolex Batman vs. Batgirl: Two Iconic GMT-Masters Compared

The Rolex GMT-Master II is one of the most popular timepieces in the world, and the "Batman" and "Batgirl" versions, with their alluring black-and-blue colorways, are on many a collector's wish list. But what makes a Batman a Batman, and a Batgirl a Batgirl, and what exactly differentiates these two watches, so similar at first glance, from each other? Here we explore what makes "Rolex Batman vs. Batgirl" such a compelling matchup, and why the debate on the nicknames themselves is so intriguing. Lead image by Bonhams and Sotheby's Before Batman: A Brief History of the Rolex GMT-Master When it hit the market in 1955, one year after its unveiling, the Rolex GMT-Master was both trend-setting and genre-defining in its now-iconic conception. The original GMT-Master (Ref. 6542) was the first watch capable of displaying the time in two separate time zones thanks to the clever addition of a fourth, central 24-hour hand and a bidirectional rotating 24-hour bezel. The initials in the watch’s name signify “Greenwich Mean Time,” the system of world timekeeping based on the calculation of mean solar time from the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London. This dual-time functionality was an innovation devised for, and developed in cooperation with, the original watch’s intended users: pilots for Pan American Airlines, at the time one of the U.S.A.’s leading commercial carriers. In that so-called Golden Age of commercial aviation, the growth of long-haul and international flights...

Rock On! Stone-Dial Watches For Every Budget - Including Dennison, Piaget, Baltic, And Rolex Fratello
Piaget Baltic Oct 4, 2025

Rock On! Stone-Dial Watches For Every Budget - Including Dennison, Piaget, Baltic, And Rolex

Would you rock a stone-dial watch? I would. And I also could. Previously, only a handful of brands ventured into stone dials, and those that did reserved them for highly expensive pieces. Today, however, technological advancements have made stone dials far more accessible to produce. This benefits watchmakers and watch fans: smaller brands can now […] Visit Rock On! Stone-Dial Watches For Every Budget - Including Dennison, Piaget, Baltic, And Rolex to read the full article.

Introducing: The New Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback Fratello
Longines Spirit Pilot Oct 2, 2025

Introducing: The New Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback

Longines and aviation have been intertwined for more than a century. The brand supplied navigation and timekeeping instruments for some of the earliest pioneers of flight, from transatlantic adventurers to polar explorers. That history continues to shape the Spirit collection, launched in 2020 as a modern take on classic pilot’s watches. Now, five years on, […] Visit Introducing: The New Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback to read the full article.