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Review: new Luminox Bear Grylls Survival Air 3762
Bear Grylls partners Luminox once again to introduce the Survival AIR Series 3762 GMT Watch. We got to test the Milanese bracelet version for several weeks.
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Revolution
Introducing the 2021 Omega Aqua Terra Collection
Omega is working through all of its collections in 2021 with major updates and addition, up next is an update to the Aqua Terra
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: The ultimate dad-watch is the Full Metal G-Shock GMW-B5000V
Editor’s note: Having kids make you think about watches differently. Not so much in the manner of potential heirloom appraisal. More that durability and scratch-resistance quickly become more urgent priorities when you’re trying to avoid copping one in the knackers from an excitable three-year who’s whirling a toy lightsaber with deadly intent. Luckily, Andrew has … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: The ultimate dad-watch is the Full Metal G-Shock GMW-B5000V appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2021
Patek Philippe went big at its annual Rare Handcrafts Exhibition that just opened at its Geneva Salon. The watchmaker unveiled the 75 timepieces of this year’s Rare Handcrafts collection, along with as many more from last year’s line up that is on show for the first time, since the 2020 exhibition was cancelled. The most accessible watches of the collection, relatively speaking, are the complicated watches that will join the regular catalogue, which include a trio of chiming watches, from the graceful minute repeater for ladies to the new Sky Moon Tourbillon in rose gold. The Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002R But it is the rest of the Rare Handcrafts collection that capture the creativity and diversity the brand’s metiers d’art. Each unique, the watches and clocks are mechanically uncomplicated, and instead use the dial and case as a canvas to showcase exquisite, vivid depictions of animals, landscapes, and art with a variety of artisanal techniques. Here’s a selection of a few standouts from this year’s collection, all one-off creations that are expensive but usually sold in advance, so most will be dispatched to their owners after the exhibition. Dome clocks One of Patek Philippe’s most distinctive timepieces is not a watch, but the round-topped table clock. A fixture in its catalogue for decades, the Dome Clock is produced in small numbers every year, typically with its exterior panels decorated in enamel. This year’s Rare Handcrafts catalogue includes...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Swatch Big Bold Bioceramic is an eco-friendly summer watch
I do love the idea of a ceramic watch in bold colours like the flashy drama of Hublot or Rado’s latest twist on the Captain Cook. But I’m still waiting for the first budget version of this cool material to try on for size. The new Swatch Big Bold Bioceramic series might present the Swiss … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Swatch Big Bold Bioceramic is an eco-friendly summer watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Montblanc Takes A Voyage Around The World In 80 Days By Land, Sea, And Air With Pens And A Smartwatch
As the world gradually reopens for travel, Montblanc’s newly introduced Around the World in 80 Days accessories collection seems that much more meaningful. Not only is it a notable assemblage of pens, leather, accessories, and a limited series Summit Lite smartwatch, it is also symbolic of a sense of adventure that has been acutely missing from our lives during the pandemic months.
Time+Tide
The Cartier Crash is officially trending after popping up in Tyler The Creator’s new video
The Cartier Crash is a bit of an enigma in the history of the French brand. The story behind its Salvador Dali-esque design is far-fetched – a Cartier Tank was returned for repair to the London boutique after being in a car crash, the unusual shape the result of the gold melting in the heat … ContinuedThe post The Cartier Crash is officially trending after popping up in Tyler The Creator’s new video appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Patek Philippe Introduces the Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374G
Patek Philippe keeps up the pace with the fourth instalment of new releases for the year, which were just announced at its annual Rare Handcrafts Exhibition in Geneva. While most of the watches at the exhibition are one-offs bestowed with colourful, artisanal decoration, the line up includes an ensemble of repeating watches, led by the flamboyant Sky Moon Tourbillon in pink gold and brown. Simpler, at least relatively speaking, is the Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374G that packs a pair of high-end complications fronted by a blue, grand feu enamel dial. Initial thoughts Today’s launches stand in stark contrast to the brand’s hottest watches of the moment – the sports watches that are arguably its most recognisable products now – that were its opening act for the year. Patek Philippe launched a slew of exquisite, highly decorated timepieces today, affirming its twin strengths – haute horlogerie and metiers d’art. The generous array of Rare Handcrafts, along with the fact that several are chiming watches, is a reminder that Patek Philippe is more than a faddish, integrated-bracelet sports watch. That said, the ref. 5374 is not entirely new (neither is the flagship Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002R). In fact, the only truly new reference amongst the Rare Handcrafts complications is the Ladies Minute Repeater ref. 7040/250G. The ref. 5374 was first introduced in 2016 with a platinum case and black enamel dial – a formal, classical package. Now it ge...
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De Bethune invites you to travel with their new travel watch: the DB25GMT Starry Varius
De Bethune releases its 29th in-house caliber with a combination of traditional watchmaking with state of the art technology. The new DB25GMT Starry Varius.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the Ladies’ Minute Repeater Ref. 7040/250G
While the Sky Moon Tourbillon introduced at the same time is bold and over the top, the Rare Handcrafts Ladies’ Minute Repeater ref. 7040/250G is graceful and delicately detailed. Now the only minute repeater for ladies in the catalogue, the ref. 7040/250G features a dial with spiral guilloche covered in translucent enamel, match with unusual, spear-shaped hands and markers. Initial thoughts The ref. 7040/250G is surprisingly reminiscent of Patek Philippe’s men’s watch of the 1990s with its “officer’s” case. In fact, that case is quite close to that of the ref. 5029, the limited-edition minute repeater made in 1997 to commemorate the opening of its factory in Plans-les-Ouates. That resemblance is a good thing, because the ref. 5029 was an elegant, classical watch. The new repeater shares similar lines, but has been tastefully dressed up as a ladies watch with a diamond bezel and guilloche dial. The dial is a first for Patek Philippe, and certainly good looking. There’s a hint of Laurent Ferrier design in the dial, but again, the resemblance isn’t a bad thing. All in all, the ref. 7040/250G is an all-rounder – a pretty watch with a finely detailed dial and a complex movement. Svelte dimensions Slightly larger than the preceding minute repeater for ladies (the ref. 7000 that was 33.7 mm), the ref. 7040/250G has a case of 18k white gold that measures just 36 mm by 10.14 mm high – more or less the dimensions the men’s minute repeater of the 1990s. The rou...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 6002R
At the opening of its annual Rare Handcrafts Exhibition in Geneva, Patek Philippe took the covers off a suite of watches and clocks decorated with artisanal techniques, including a new version of its ultra-fancy grand complication, the Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 6002R. First offered in blue enamel, and then black, the Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002 was the most complicated wristwatch in Patek Philippe’s catalogue, until the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300 and Grand Sonnerie ref. 6301. But the Sky Moon Tourbillon remains the most ornately decorated amongst its peers, with every surface of the case – and even the hands – engraved with arabesques and the dial in cloisonné enamel. Initial thoughts Enormous at 44 mm wide and over 17 mm high, the Sky Moon Tourbillon is an expensive, complex wristwatch that looks, well, expensive and complex. It’s often a statement piece for the segment of clients who find a Richard Mille affordable but unrefined, the new rose-gold variant makes sense. The metal is the most popular for high-end watches, globally but especially in Asia. It is warmer and richer, making the watch seem even more luxe – a useful characteristic in watch like this. The rationale for the Sky Moon Tourbillon in rose gold is clear. As a watch, I am certain it will be impressive, probably even more impressive than the earlier versions of the watch due to its brighter colours. It’s too baroque – and of course unaffordable – for most, but the target demographic w...
SJX Watches
Longines Introduces the Heritage Classic “Sector” Dial in Black
Back in 2019, Longines introduced the Heritage Classic, a remake of a 1934 watch with a “sector” dial. Combining a popular, retro style with an affordable price tag – we gave it a thumb-up in our review – the original Heritage Classic was a success. Now Longines has given the Heritage Classic a black dial, while keeping the rest of the formula the same. Initial thoughts Longines can’t be accused of being imaginative, but that’s perfectly fine as the brand’s forte, at least for watch enthusiasts, is its vintage remakes. In fact, the new Heritage Classic comes just months after the Avigation Bigeye in a new colourway was unveiled. Aside from the dial, the new Heritage Classic is identical to the 2019 model in every regard, so it has the same appeal as its predecessor, though I prefer the black dial over the silver. The 2019 Heritage Classic There’s an austerity to the dark dial that better fits the “sector” dial, which is occasionally known as a “scientific” dial. I already liked the clean and minimalist look before, and now its lines seem sharper in black. However, the black dial forgoes the heat-blued hands of the silver dial, which is a shame, but a necessity given the need for contrasting hands. Priced at US$2,150 on a leather strap and slightly more on a beads-of-rice bracelet, the new Heritage Classic also has the same price – a good thing since that the 2019 original was one of the best value propositions of the year. The new Heritage Cl...
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Why the new Facebook watch could be a hard sell
As reported last week by Alex Heath for The Verge, Facebook is reported to be working on its very own smartwatch, due for launch in the middle of 2022. This will be the first time the tech giant is making a play for your wrist real estate, taking on the mighty Apple Watch which remains … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why the new Facebook watch could be a hard sell appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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De Bethune Introduces the DB25GMT Starry Varius
While the pandemic is not entirely in the rearview mirror yet, international travel is recovering slowly but surely, so De Bethune’s latest arrives at an opportune time. The DB25GMT Starry Varius is a gently updated version of its dual time zone wristwatch – smaller, thinner, and lighter than the original, while also sporting the brand’s trademark “Starry Night” dial. More classical than the brand’s best-known models like the DB28 or DW5, the DB25GMT nonetheless incorporates details that are quintessentially De Bethune in addition to the celestial motif dial, helping it stand out amongst dual-time watches. Initial thoughts If money was no object, the first watch I would buy is my “grail”, the De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Tourbillon. It has an ethereal quality and technical innovations that capture both the mind and heart. Unsurprisingly, I love the DB25GMT Starry Varius, which has a similar style but is more practical. The star-studded dial is a modest upgrade, but one that significantly improves the aesthetics of the brand’s original dual time-zone watch that was launched in 2016. Matching it with a travel-time complication makes sense as a historical reference, since explorers once depended on the stars for navigation – making the design feel like a match made in heaven (pun intended). The multiple-part dial gives the watch visual depth despite the clean layout, certainly making it one of the most captivating travel watches. But the new dual ...
Revolution
Introducing Ulysse Nardin’s Diver Lemon Shark
In honor of World Ocean Day, the Le Locle brand launched the limited-edition Diver Lemon Shark, a 42mm Diver designed specifically for the deep.
Time+Tide
Is the vintage Cartier boom here to stay?
We’ve grown used to seeing jaw-dropping auction results for two brands: Rolex and Patek Philippe. But recently, the prices of one French-founded jewellery and watchmaking house have begun to climb. That’s right, Cartier is hot, with prices rising not only across the more common models, but also the top lots in auction catalogues. But what … ContinuedThe post Is the vintage Cartier boom here to stay? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm
Divers are among the most popular watches on the market, if not the most popular, due to their highly robust builds and familiar aesthetic. As a result, the segment is highly competitive and brands now have to find fresh ways to draw interest to their references. Fully aware of this trend, Oris has really begun … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Up Close: Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Le Chrono Monopoussoir
An architect-turned-watch-designer who made his reputation with a distinctive, whimsical style, Alain Silberstein founded one of the most prominent independent watch brands of the 1990s. Located in Besançon, the historic centre of French watchmaking, the Alain Silberstein brand went under in 2012 but has since enjoyed a revival thanks to a collaboration with Louis Erard that gave birth to an affordable regulator-style wristwatch. More recently, Mr Silberstein designed a charming pendulum clock. An early Alain Silberstein from the 1990s, this one the uncommon Krono Saphir with a sapphire crystal case Now the designer is back with a set of wristwatches, once again made by Louis Erard, but this time designed from the ground up as an entirely new model. The Le Triptyque Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein is made up of three watches, all having the same case and design cues, but featuring different complications. They are available individually or as a box set. The top-of-the-line model is the Le Chrono Monopoussoir Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein, an automatic, single-button chronograph. The other two watches in the set are priced identically but quite different: La Semaine shows the time along with the trademark Silberstein “Smileday” calendar, while Le Régulateur has a regulator-style display. The Triptyque with the Le Régulateur (left), La Semaine (centre), and Le Chrono Monopoussoir. Photo – Louis Erard We’re only going up close with the mono-pusher chronograp...
Quill & Pad
Cartier Tank Talk With George Cramer And Martin Green: Behind The Scenes (Video)
Martin Green had the pleasure of participating in the Cartier #TankTalk with George Cramer, which saw Cartier's Amsterdam boutique staff sharing experiences selling these watches on a daily basis and George and Martin sharing how they perceive the different models. This gave everyone more in-depth insights, strengthened by the presence of historic Tank models as well as the entire new Must collection.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Reopens Flagship New York Boutique
Announced last year and finally complete, Vacheron Constantin’s flagship boutique in the United States just opened today in Manhattan on 57th Street, just as New York City is coming back to life post-pandemic with summer around the corner. Replacing its former location uptown at the corner of East 64th Street and Madison Avenue – which was the brand’s first boutique in the country – the new store is quite literally bigger and better. The brand’s former space was a one-story location in a quieter neighbourhood, but now its home is a two-storey building with an interior spanning 4,500 square feet, and neighbours that include several notable watchmakers and retailers, including Richard Mille and Audemars Piguet. The new boutique is also the opening act for Alexander Schmiedt, who was recently tapped to lead Vacheron Constantin in the Americas. A watch-industry lifer whose family has roots in the business, Mr Schmiedt was formerly head of Vacheron Constantin in the Middle East, and prior to that the chief of Montblanc’s watch division. Open plan and welcoming The relocated store is kitted out with a new-look interior that slightly more contemporary than the outgoing decor that was heavy on dark wood. Characterised by golden hues and geometric shapes, the store has airy, floor-to-ceiling windows that reveal the rich colours inside, along with a selection of watches that are dangerously inviting. In a nod to the brand’s long presence in the United States, the bouti...
SJX Watches
Living With: Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Panda”
Tudor was founded in 1946 expressly to offer good value, specifically, its founder Hans Wilsdorf (who’s better known to establish Rolex) wanted Tudor watches to offer the trademark dependability of its bigger brother, but at a more accessible price. Seventy-five years later that remains true, with watches like the Black Bay 58 being amongst the best dive watches in its price segment. When I covered the Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Panda” at its launch earlier in the year, I wrote it is “likely the best-value sports chronograph one can find under US$5,000”. So I naturally jumped at the opportunity to test drive the watch for a week. Initial thoughts The Black Bay Chrono “Panda” is, on its face, a more accessible alternative to the Rolex Daytona, now virtually impossible to get at retail. The similarities between the two are obvious: a “Panda” dial with one line of red text, screw-down pushers, and a black tachymetre bezel. Yet to simply pigeonhole the Black Bay Chrono “Panda” as a more affordable Daytona would do it a disservice. The Black Bay Chrono possesses enough character to stand on its own. It’s instantly recognisable as a Tudor with the signature “snowflake” hands matched with round indices. Though the new Black Bay Chrono is near identical visually to the first-generation model, it has been refined with a slightly thinner case. Nevertheless, the watch is still relatively thick on the wrist, slightly beefier than the Breitling Premier B01 wh...
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: Hype and high prices are killing it for watch collectors
Editor’s note: Recently I spoke to a former salesman at a high-end Australian watch retailer. He told me that his store didn’t have a “passive waiting list” where you’re rewarded for patiently queuing up. In fact, to disoblige customers of that notion, the shop preferred a more pointedly ambiguous term: “the expression of interest list”. … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Hype and high prices are killing it for watch collectors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Bold field watches for under $500 in the MAS Watches Arcticus range
What’s in a name? Quite a lot in this case. MAS Watches was started in 2019 by Australian Matthew Francis, a watch enthusiast who shares his love of watches with his young son, Tate. His brand’s name is a direct nod to this family background – MAS stands for Matthew and Son. Fortunately, this cute … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Bold field watches for under $500 in the MAS Watches Arcticus range appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
RGM Model 25 Custom “Kauai”: Say Aloha To Extreme Guilloche
RGM Model 25 “Kauai” features waves depicting the Pacific Ocean carefully engraved with a hand-powered guilloche machine. These waves surround a gently brushed and laser-engraved map of the Hawaiian island of Kaua’i. But instead of the geometrically repeated patterns of typical guilloche, the waves follow in random formations, just as they are in nature. The effect is simply stunning, making this customized unique piece a real treasure.
Time+Tide
Fancy a vintage Daytona or Calatrava? This watchmaker is selling his magnificent collection…
All too often we discuss watches as assets. Usually when we hear about people selling pieces from their collection it is part of an effort to fund the next watch – something I am well documented in doing. But when you reach a certain collection tier, or have the right references, moving such watches can … ContinuedThe post Fancy a vintage Daytona or Calatrava? This watchmaker is selling his magnificent collection… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces New Looks for the Marine in Titanium or Gold
Perhaps the epitome of formal, classical style, Breguet took a more modern direction when it revamped the Marine in 2018, giving its line of sports watches a sportier and cleaner aesthetic. The overhauled Marine was launched in three models: the entry-level Marine 5517 (which we did a hands-on review of), the Marine Chronographe 5527, and the top-of-the-line Marine Alarme Musicale 5547. Three years on, Breguet is gently facelifting the Marine Collection with new variants in titanium or rose gold – blue dials for the titanium models and slate-grey for rose gold. Initial thoughts Although not the most novel – these are just new case and dial combinations – the facelifted Marine watches are nevertheless noteworthy simply because they look substantially better. For one, the blue dials on the titanium models are eminently more striking than the mid-grey of the 2018 models, which gave them a more industrial feel. At the same time, the sunburst finishing is more obvious in blue. And pairing of blue and titanium is also unusual, as Breguet usually reserves blue dials for its white gold watches. The Marine in titanium and blue Similarly, the new slate-grey dials for the rose gold models give them more character than the original versions in silver that lacked contrast. The juxtaposition between the warm case metal and the cool dial is intriguing and eye-catching. And the colour and brings out the wave guilloché better. Starting at US$17,300 for the ref. 5517 in titaniu...
Time+Tide
What jewellery to wear with your watch (according to Jeff Goldblum’s stylist)
Our European editor, Mike Christensen, teams up with Andrew Vottero – Jeff Goldblum’s personal stylist – to help fellow timepiece aficionados ensure any bling they wear is complementing their watches and not detracting from them. We all love watches, that much we can agree on. But are we wearing them correctly with other pieces of … ContinuedThe post What jewellery to wear with your watch (according to Jeff Goldblum’s stylist) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
New Corum Golden Bridge Automatic For 2021: Linear Winding Never Looked So Good
Of all the watches extoling the virtues of the mechanical movement, no other piece does it as simply, cleanly, or in as straightforward a manner as the Corum Golden Bridge. The 10-year-anniversary version of the Golden Bridge Automatic sees some aesthetic changes made to its avant-garde case, and in particular the iconic sapphire crystal.
Time+Tide
HANDS ON: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection – Japanese dial mastery inspired by nature
As you might know, I am a bit of a dial fetishist, so when faced with a new limited collection from Grand Seiko, the risk is always there – that fear of repeating myself or getting so carried away that I overreach and baffle you with new adjectives that I’ve accidentally made up in an … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection – Japanese dial mastery inspired by nature appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
6 Hublot Soccer Ambassadors Ready For The European Championships With The Big Bang e UEFA Euro 2020
In the spirit of enjoying soccer again at the highest level, Elizabeth Doerr highlights six Hublot ambassadors and friends of the brand associated with Euro 2020. They'll be wearing the limited edition Big Bang e UEFA Euro 2020 smartwatch, which features an app dedicated to soccer enabling users to follow the competition in real time.