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Time+Tide
Taking a closer look at a designer's first take on a watch.The post Ember launches to great heights with their debut time-only Rocket appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Red agate, rubellite tourmaline, or wood - what's your pick?The post Dennison’s natural wood and stone dial ALD Collection is now in the Time+Tide Shop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
When the wedding invitations start rolling in and the summer air warms with celebration, there’s a timeless question every groom and wedding party must answer: What gifts can truly mark this moment? For the groom and his closest friends, a Hampden watch does more than tell time-it tells stories, turning a single day’s memory into a lifetime keepsake. A Heritage of Craft and Personal Touch Hampden has earned the distinction of America’s oldest family watch brand, now in its fourth-generation of continuous family ownership. Founded in 1922 and rooted in Chicago’s rich horological past, its relaunch this year to mark a century in business balances classic American watchmaking sensibilities with contemporary Swiss precision. While their dials and movements are built to endure decades of wear, it’s Hampden’s mastery of custom caseback engraving that makes each watch singularly meaningful. From precise monograms to heartfelt messages and even sketches or handwritten notes, Hampden’s engraving technology is among the best in the industry-a nod to its historical reputation for innovation and personalization. The post A Keepsake in Time: The Wedding Watch Gift Guide with Hampden appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Having collaborated on several iterations of the affordable “Time Eater” regulator, Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin now close the chapter on the model with something more complicated. The Time Eater Tourbillon Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin tells the time regulator style – retaining the trademark “eyeball” hours from the Russian independent’s Wristmon series – but inside the “mouth” is a one-minute tourbillon. At CHF19,900, the Time Eater Tourbillon is pricier than the earlier time-only models, but still relatively accessible as such things go, thanks to a no-frills, but Swiss, tourbillon movement inside. Initial thoughts I liked the original Time Eater regulator because the design captures the Konstantin Chaykin style but makes it affordable at about a fifth of the price of a Wristmon. The Time Eater Tourbillon is less affordable, but still priced a little less than a Wristmon, so it is still a value proposition. More broadly, it’s a good thing that Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin are ending the Time Eater series. After three time-only regulator launches and this tourbillon, the concept has probably reached an optimal point of just enough and not overexploited. Rolling eye whimsy The Time Eater Tourbillon will be available in two variants: a green-accented model as pictured here that’s limited to 78 pieces, and one in blue that’s limited to 28. The former will be available from Louis Erard and its retailers, while the latter will only be so...
Time+Tide
An idiosyncratic shape and a retro-tastic dial (complete with pinion cap!) make this indie offering a love letter to the 1970s.The post Vintage vibes abound with the Ferro Time Master 70 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Does the Model A1 have what it takes to enter a crowded market?The post The DWISS Model A1 is an integrated bracelet beauty from a brand known for crazy, affordable time displays appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) stands among the most revered names in horology, celebrated for innovations that shaped modern watchmaking. While his tourbillon, self-winding mechanism, and anti-shock system are widely acknowledged, his work in astronomical timekeeping, particularly equation of time (EOT) watches, remain one of Breguet’s most intricate yet less-explored achievements. With 2025 marking the 250th anniversary of his birth, this guide offers the most comprehensive study of every known EOT timepiece made during his lifetime, including pocket watch no. 160 “Marie Antoinette”, expanding on our prior analysis of the complication (in parts I and II). No. 160 as pictured at the recent exhibition in London’s Science Museum. Image – Baruch Coutts Looking at the stars Breguet operated in an era where precision timekeeping was dictated by astronomy, and his workshop, positioned at the heart of Paris’s scientific and commercial networks, was uniquely placed to serve scientists, navigators, and royalty who required accurate solar and mean time readings. Rather than settling on a single method for displaying and correcting the EOT, he explored multiple mechanical solutions, refining some while revisiting earlier ideas when necessary. His approach does not follow a strictly linear evolution but instead reflects a dynamic cycle of innovation, mechanical experimentation, and adaptation. Breguet’s cam-driven system with feeler to indicate EOT, as found in pocke...
Teddy Baldassarre
The GMT market has changed dramatically in the past seven years. I use that number specifically, because it takes us to 2018, when Tudor brought attainable traveller GMT (independent hour hand functionality) to market in a splashy way. Since then we have seen brands like Longines and Mido continue the work by delivering more options at even better price points. From a general “caller GMT” standpoint, Seiko has knocked it out of the park with models like those within the SSK range. We are living in a GMT moment with more options than ever. But if you took things back just one more year, to 2017, you could argue that it was the year Japan’s Grand Seiko made a mic-dropping value statement by way of the SBGM221, a traveller GMT in a dressier package with elite functionality while delivering value that far outpaces its price point. In 2025, that value proposition has not changed at all. Background: The DNA of the SBGM221 looks back to the early roots of Grand Seiko in the 1960s to inform its design, but from a modern standpoint more directly can look to the SBGM021 released around 2010. That year is significant because it was the first year the brand arrived in the U.S. market. Aesthetically, the SBGM021 is an illustration of the older style of co-branded Seiko/Grand Seiko fare. Fast forward to 2017, and the watch reaches its completed form. But the 021, with its ivory dial, and general – and honestly quite original – GMT layout is established. You can see the direc...
![[VIDEO] An Artistic Take on Time – Sō Labs Layer Three Series Desk Clock](http://windupwatchshop.com/cdn/shop/articles/Untitled_design_12_0c1f7356-77e6-46de-9386-0005a58d8aeb.png?v=1749670023)
Worn & Wound
The post [VIDEO] An Artistic Take on Time – Sō Labs Layer Three Series Desk Clock appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Teddy Baldassarre
Let's begin this review of the Seiko 5 GMT Sports SSK023 with a spirited chant: "NWA! NWA!" No, I’m not the hype man for the groundbreaking ‘90s hip-hop act. It’s a New Watch Alert, and all kidding aside, I went and bought a watch, something I haven’t done since I picked up my Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar last year. In spite of my attraction to that yellow-dialed wrist magnet, there’s a new contender in my regular rotation, and it’s not Swiss. Nope, I’ve gone and picked up a new Seiko 5 GMT Sports model, and it’s getting an awful lot of my attention. I’ve fallen hard for the SSK023, probably the most basic four-hander in the Japanese brand's catalog, and I couldn’t be happier. Now, this is hardly my first Seiko rodeo. I’m a longtime fan whose gateway was an old-school 6309-7049, the famed "Turtle" dive watch, discovered by my wife in a mom & pop jewelry store for a mere hundred bucks. It’s not even my first Seiko 5 spin around the block, and I’ve got the SNXJ89, Seiko’s budget take on a classic silver-dialed Datejust, to prove it. However, it is my first Seiko 5 Sports watch with the new-era logo. Prior to the SSK023, I did snag the 55th Anniversary LE, the SRPK17, and it’s everything it’s advertised to be, with its note-perfect re-creation of the very first Seiko 5 Sports model from 1968. That tonneau-cased beauty is a banger, down to the original Seiko 5 shield logo, but the SNK023 represents my first real dip into the modern Seiko 5 pool, and...
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin, the only Russian member of the AHCI, have teamed up once again for a new batch of their hit “Time Eater” collaboration. It’s been about two years since their first collaboration, which was an immediate hit for both parties and sold out quickly. A follow up limited edition came a few months later, this one much darker in tone, both in terms of the dial and case, and also the mood of the piece- that bloodshot eye really leaves an impression. For their third release, Chaykin and Louis Erard have returned to their original idea, offering a pair of watches that fans of the original who might have missed out will likely be quite interested in taking a look at when they go on sale in a few days. The fact that this collaboration exists at all is one of the things we like most about Louis Erard as a brand. They’ve really found a niche in developing limited edition projects with interesting collaborators both in and outside of the watch industry. A watchmaker like Konstantin Chaykin, who has risen to prominence in recent years with his “Wristmons” series of watches, makes watches that are likely out of reach for most collectors. But through Louis Erard, Chaykin, along with watchmakers like Stefan Kudoke and Vianney Halter, brings his design ethos down to earth, making it approachable to enthusiasts who admire his work but would never be able to spend tens of thousands on a single piece. Together with Louis Erard, Chaykin has essentia...
SJX Watches
Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin are closing their “Time Eater” collaboration with the final pair in the series, the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin III Blue and Red. Retaining the familiar “cyclops” regulator dial inspired by the Russian watchmaker’s Wristmons, the new pair will be the last collaboration between the two in this format. Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin are working on future collaborations, but those will be in a different style. The blue version is 42 mm and available only from Louis Erard, while the red model is 39 mm and will be sold only by Konstantin Chaykin. The 42 mm model in blue Initial thoughts Louis Erard has done a great number of collaborations with independent watchmakers, but the Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater ranks amongst the best of them. Like the second Vianney Halter collab, the Time Eater captures the spirit of the watchmaker’s original creation while being affordable. I look forward to the next collaboration with Mr Chaykin, because I am sure it will be interesting. Admittedly the latest pair are only a cosmetic tweak on the earlier editions, but the Time Eater is still an appealing concept that’s priced right. Both versions adopts the standard Louis Erard regulator case, which makes it a little too thick, but that’s an acceptable compromise for affordability. The two are the third Time Eater project, and Louis Erard chief Manuel Emch has confirmed they will close the Time Eater regulator series. The ...
Fratello
Following up on its 2024 inaugural collaboration watch, Oracle Time releases its sophomore effort, the Ball Engineer II Dazzle. Last year’s wonderful Christopher Ward Dune Shoreline was so successful that Christopher Ward spun off the 100-piece limited edition into a bona fide collection. With the wind in its sails, Oracle Time now jazzes up the […] Visit Oracle Time Unveils The Ball Engineer II Dazzle to read the full article.
Fratello
Chrono24 is the world’s largest marketplace for watches, and today marks the launch of its new brand identity and global brand campaign, “Time Is Our Thing.” Chrono24 Since its inception in 2003, Chrono24 has established itself as the international marketplace for luxury watches, offering a staggering selection of approximately 560,000 timepieces. With around 3,000 dealers […] Visit Time Is Our Thing – Chrono24 to read the full article.
Monochrome
He’s conquering the Big Apple! That’s something I’m thrilled to announce, as our colleagues from Time+Tide are growing again. Founder Andrew McUtchen and I have known each other for many years, and I’m grateful to call him a friend. In 2014, he founded what was back then a watch magazine, “because”, as he said to […]
Teddy Baldassarre
When considering the most versatile watch brands in terms of both global reach and variety within their own brand portfolio, it’s difficult to identify a brand that surpasses Seiko. In 1881, a young entrepreneur by the name of Kintaro Hattorri (pictured below), opened up a shop in Tokyo's Ginza where he sold and repaired watches and clocks. At just 21 years old, Hattori took a massive risk in hopes of creating something bigger. These hopes were realized in the coming century as the watch brand he created established numerous watchmaking milestones and eventually changed the course of the entire watch industry with the release of the legendary Astron, the world's first quartz wristwatch, in 1969. In more recent years Seiko has established itself as one of the most beloved brands on the market, offering a wide range of styles from dressy to sporty to space-age high-tech and all for what most would consider very accessible prices. In this blog, we dive into the wide world of Seiko watches, naming our favorites from the brand's major families, in hopes of providing a jumping-off point for your own research into a potential next purchase. Some Ground Rules Given the number of watches that could be included, we will need to draw the line somewhere, so don’t be concerned if one of your favorite Seiko models is not on the list. We will focus primarily on regular-production models, not limited editions that may be unavailable before too long. We've envision...
SJX Watches
When all eyes were focused on the novelties from the big brands at Watches & Wonders, designer Fiona Krüger was quietly previewing a mysterious clock that questions the nature of time itself. Part haute horlogerie, part objet d’art, the Forget Time clock was developed in collaboration with Denis Flageollet’s clockmaking workshop at the De Bethune manufacture. The concept for the Forget Time clock was inspired by the work of Dr Carlo Rovelli, an Italian theoretical physicist who has written several books about the nature of time. The clock and its movement exist concealed within a wooden cube that’s been embellished with wood marquetry. The mysterious looking box opens at the touch of a button to reveal the clock within. Initial thoughts We’re nearly halfway through 2025, and one of this year’s trends is becoming clear: clocks are having a moment. In just the past month, the Breguet Sympathique No. 1 sold for more than US$6 million, while the almost mythical Cartier Portico Clock No. 3, which recently emerged for the first time in decades, hammered for north of US$4 million. Even Patek Philippe introduced a million-dollar desk clock. And with a certain brand turning 250 years old this year, we might not be done with clocks yet. In this context, the launch of the Forget Time feels opportune, though Dr Rovelli would probably argue this feeling is due to the limits of my own human perception. Such is the inspiration for the clock, which was designed by Ms Kruger and...
Time+Tide
It's not just green, it's "Verzasca Green"...The post Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Verzasca: The latest variant of the ultimate travel time watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen’s entry-level model is now the time-only UJ-2. The brand’s new design language includes nods to the past without being repetitive. Compared to the limited-edition UJ-1 tourbillon, the UJ-2 is a simpler and (relatively) more accessible watch, with a calibre inside that can serve as a base for complications in the future. Initial thoughts The UJ-2 shows no obvious direct influence from past watches and marks the beginning of Urban Jürgensen’s new approach. The styling is reminiscent of Breguet’s work, but the fine details are traceable to Jürgensen’s own creations. Inside, a new movement bears Voutilainen’s unmistakable touch. The gilded, grained caliber appears plain at first glance, but it is of high quality and strikingly original in many respects. Among the four versions of the UJ-2, one in particular catches the eye. The rose-gold model in particular, with its bright silvered dial recalls George Daniels’s Millennium series, thanks to the off-center dial and gold dial rings. The small seconds sub dial is rather large, with its diameter almost spanning the watch face diameter. Along with its lopsided placement, it makes for an interesting sight. The dial as a whole looks classical, but with a slight minimalist touch - same as in the UJ-1. The movement inside looks to be the base for models to come. In a growing trend of using new materials, longer power reserves and high frequencies, the UJ-1 caliber remains quintessentially traditional,...
Time+Tide
Being able to track multiple time zones at once is both practical and romantic - here are some of the best watches that can.The post 12 of the best GMT watches for tracking the time all around the globe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
These three Elliot Browns - a field watch, a diver and a unique GMT - epitomise the British indie's robust offerings.The post A three-pronged assault: a trio of our favourite Elliot Brown watches in the Time+Tide Shop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
The UK’s leading watch publication, Oracle Time, announces a new watch event for the enthusiast community. Hands On Horology will take place on the 14th of June 2025 at Protein Studios, Shoreditch, London, UK. Showcasing more than 40 brands, from independents to globally recognized watchmakers, the event will have something for everyone. There will also […] Visit Oracle Time Hosts Hands On Horology Watch Event This June to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Longines continues to expand their Zulu Time collection with the new Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925. Never one to shy away from an anniversary, the latest version of the Longines travel watch celebrates the 100th anniversary of the brand’s first watch to display dual time zones. These early dual time zone watches featured colorful representations of maritime flags referencing the letter “Z”, a nod to the time at the zero meridian in Greenwich. The “Z” designation ultimately led to pilots referencing “Zulu time” when referring to time at the zero meridian, an important concept when traveling across time zones. The modern renditions of the Zulu Time watches are completely distinct from their historical counterparts in terms of their design and aesthetics, but for Longines their intent seems to be to recreate the adventurous spirit of those watches in a modern package. All of the Zulu Time watches to this point have straddled the line between a clear vintage inspiration and contemporary design tropes, resulting in watches that have a classic everyday appeal. Last year, I reviewed the Spirit Zulu Time Titanium, which simply by virtue of the material used felt like the most contemporary iteration of the Zulu Time yet. I really enjoyed my time with that watch and felt that Longines really nailed the proportions, with a case just under 40mm that was also not too long from lug to lug. The new 1925 version of the Zulu Time is perhaps best thought of as the inverse o...
Worn & Wound
“The Greatest Collectors of All Time” is a series of features that will look at what drives a collector to collect and how they go about seeking out items they want for their collections. Here we look back through time to highlight the greatest horological collectors and showcase their particular area and passion for collecting. Courtenay Adrian Ilbert (1888–1956) was one of the most notable horological collectors of all time. He had the wealth, passion and enthusiasm that enabled him to amass an immense and varied collection. This was at a formative time when many unrecognized horological gems were coming to the market due to a developing appreciation of technical horology and world circumstances. His collection, known as the Ilbert Collection, included an impressive array of timepieces from the 16th century to his time, featuring some of the rarest and most exquisite watches, clocks, and horological instruments. Professionally, Ilbert was an engineer, and his technical knowledge informed his horological expertise. His engineering insights helped him appreciate the intricate workings of the timepieces he collected and restored. He was an extremely fine craftsman taking infinite patience in the matter of restoration and repair. Courtenay Adrian Ilbert (1888–1956) Born in Reading, Berkshire during the Victorian era, on the 22nd April 1888, his family background provided him with the stability and resources to pursue an excellent education. From a young age, Ilbert ...
Time+Tide
Podium finish in Monaco, and a serious timekeeper on the wrist.The post Charles Leclerc’s new RM 72-01 is his next collab with long-time supporter Richard Mille appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
The Tudor Black Bay 58 (formerly “Fifty-Eight”) was a smash hit when it debuted in 2018. At Watches and Wonders this year, the winning formula received an update. For that reason, now is as good a time as any to consider picking up one of the previous versions on the used market. Tudor’s Black Bay […] Visit Is Now The Best Time To Buy A Used Tudor Black Bay 58? to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Longines celebrates the 100-year anniversary of its first dual time wristwatch by unveiling three new colourways for the Spirit Zulu Time.The post Longines expands the Spirit Zulu Time range with the 100th anniversary-marking 1925 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Celebrating 100 years of dual time watchmaking from Longines.
Teddy Baldassarre
Longines introduced the Zulu Time models to its aviation-influenced Spirit collection in 2022, and the watch’s dual-time complication, stylishly bold design, and undeniable value proposition have made it one of the brand’s biggest hits of the 2020s, spawning additional models in an array of sizes, materials, and color executions. The Spirit Zulu Time is now such a fixture in the Longines portfolio that it almost seems like it has always been there, despite being a relatively recent addition to the lineup; it doesn’t even precede the Covid pandemic, which, of course, somehow seems like it happened only yesterday and yet also in another time and dimension entirely. However, all of that said, Longines’ history of making dual-time or GMT wristwatches like the Zulu Time reaches back much further - 100 years, to be exact. And it is that century milestone to which Longines pays tribute with the latest member of the family, unveiled today: the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925. Longines Zulu Time History: Longines produced its first “Zulu Time” wristwatch in that eponymous year of 1925, in the heart of the Art Deco era. Very dissimilar to the round-cased modern descendant, that watch had an angular, square case and ornate hour numerals, along with a third hand to indicate a second time zone and, most notably, a Zulu flag emblem with a red letter “Z.” Where did this iconography originate? In military jargon, “Zulu” is the radio transmission articulation for t...
Teddy Baldassarre
Teddy Baldassarre is an authorized luxury watch retailer of brands like TUDOR, OMEGA, IWC, Grand Seiko, Breitling, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Zenith, Longines, ORIS, MIDO, Tissot, Hamilton, NOMOS Glashütte, Baume & Mercier, and more.
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