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Beads of Rice Bracelet

Mid-century steel bracelet with discrete bead-shaped links; Gay Frères, NSA, Novavit; modern Forstner revival.

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGN019 and SBGN021 are “go-anywhere, do anything” watches Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGN019 May 12, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGN019 and SBGN021 are “go-anywhere, do anything” watches

Grand Seiko are loved for lots of different reasons from the Spring Drive movement to Zaratsu polishing and the impressive value that they offer collectors and enthusiasts. They are also the brand that comes to mind when you think of quality quartz watchmaking and this year Grand Seiko are celebrating the 140th anniversary of the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGN019 and SBGN021 are “go-anywhere, do anything” watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem Automaton SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem Automaton May 12, 2021

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem Automaton

Unveiled during Watches & Wonders 2021, Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem Automaton made its debut alongside highly complicated watches from mainstream watchmakers – but it holds its own in mechanical complexity and metiers d’art decoration against the best of them. Initial thoughts Louis Vuitton’s mechanical watches are impressive, and often don’t get enough respect from watch enthusiasts because of the often ostentatious design. But I respect the quality of concept and execution, and like several of the watches (and own one of them). The flagship complication for 2021 is typical Louis Vuitton in terms of design, but creative in its mechanics and polished in its artisanal decoration. The Carpe Diem is essentially a modern day vanitas – a work of art symbolising the transience of material goods and fragility of life. At the same time, it encapsulates many of the favoured themes in modern-day watchmaking – complex movements, artisanal decoration, and over-the-top style. Although the Carpe Diem is massive and extreme, the craftsmanship evident on the dial is delicate and refined. The engraving on the skull is fine, and even more intricate on the snake, which is enamelled in exceptional detail. All of the metiers d’art on the dial is as good as that on watches from mainstream watchmakers. At the same time, the movement is technically competent and properly finished, given its La Fabrique du Temps provenance. But the watch is a lot of watch, in terms of size an...

Why I bought a Zenith pocket watch that’s 106 years old Time+Tide
Zenith pocket watch that’s 106 May 12, 2021

Why I bought a Zenith pocket watch that’s 106 years old

One of the few worldly possessions of Mahatma Gandhi was his beloved Zenith alarm pocket watch that the social visionary used to make sure he didn’t miss prayer times. Being reminded of this merely underscored the intrinsic value of my newly arrived, perfectly smooth and deeply unfashionable piece of stress relief. What happened was this: … ContinuedThe post Why I bought a Zenith pocket watch that’s 106 years old appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Yema Ties Up with French Navy for Dive Watches SJX Watches
Baltic Yema May 12, 2021

Yema Ties Up with French Navy for Dive Watches

Established in 1948,  Yema was once a French watchmaking giant, having equipped the French Air Force and the first French astronaut, Jean-Loup Chrétien. It entered a long decline in the aftermath of the Quartz Crisis, but was revived under its current French owners who took over in 2009. Now Yema is once again making tool watches for professionals in a tie up with the French Navy, or Marine Nationale. A collection of dive watches “jointly designed with French Navy personnel for marine professionals”, the Navygraf X Marine Nationale is led by a time-only, automatic dive watch, as well as a variant with a GMT function. It also includes a less expensive quartz model and a ladies version, though they will not be covered here. The Navygraf Marine Nationale Automatic (left), and GMT Initial thoughts Along with fellow French brand Baltic, Yema is one of my favourite brands at the US$1,000 price point. Its watches are well designed and executed for the price, often offering strong value. Given Yema’s historical relationship with the French military – the brand supplied watches to French air force helicopter pilots in the 1970s – Yema has legitimacy in military watches, and its collaboration with the navy makes sense. The white and blue combination – a nautical palette modelled on the emblem of the French Navy – is familiar but stands out on the wrist, being immediately reminiscent of the oceans. The maritime theme of the symmetrical and legible dial is reinforc...

INTRODUCING: The Longines Spirit green dial offers a fresh look for the new collection Time+Tide
Longines Spirit green dial offers May 12, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Longines Spirit green dial offers a fresh look for the new collection

It isn’t everyday that Longines launch an entirely new collection, but back in the middle of 2020 they did exactly that, announcing the all new Spirit collection. Taking cues from the pilot’s watches of the 20th century, but modernising the designs for the 21st, the Longines Spirit collection was a balanced blend of the old … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Spirit green dial offers a fresh look for the new collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

#Kixntix: A limited edition IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 from Mr Porter meets Puma’s street-tough suede Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 from May 11, 2021

#Kixntix: A limited edition IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 from Mr Porter meets Puma’s street-tough suede

Having buttressed their online fashion offering with an impressive collection of fine watches, Mr Porter has become a real force to be reckoned with over the last decade. To celebrate their 10th birthday, they’ve collaborated with IWC on a damn tempting version of their Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41, a piece that delivers superb legibility at … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: A limited edition IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 from Mr Porter meets Puma’s street-tough suede appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Everything you need in a watch from the Grand Seiko SBGN019 and SBGN021 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGN019 May 11, 2021

VIDEO: Everything you need in a watch from the Grand Seiko SBGN019 and SBGN021

It’s tough to find a watch that does everything that you want. The checklist of things you’d ideally have can be pretty long sometimes, whether it’s water resistance, functionality, size, material or the type of strap that it arrives on. But when you do find a watch that ticks most, if not all, of the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Everything you need in a watch from the Grand Seiko SBGN019 and SBGN021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Swatch Goes Green with Big Bold in Plant-Based Plastic Composite SJX Watches
Swatch May 11, 2021

Swatch Goes Green with Big Bold in Plant-Based Plastic Composite

Having introduced the oversized Big Bold in bright, funky iterations such as the Jelly Fish Neon, Swatch is now going minimalist – and green – with the Big Bold Bioceramic. Clad in solid, pastel colours, the Big Bold Bioceramic is clean and coherent. Though simple, it manages to be interesting in both style and materials. The open-worked dial reveals some of its mechanics, while the case is composite of ceramic and plastic made from plant matter. Initial thoughts For those who appreciate the bold presence of large watches like the Royal Oak Offshore, the Big Bold is a lot of fun at a far more accessible price. So when the Big Bold was launched a few years ago, I very much liked the idea of a 47 mm plastic watch. But I found the earlier iterations to be at either extreme – too funky or too plain. The latest version, however, lands in the sweet spot for me. Vibrant in colour – especially in “power pink” or sky blue – but pared back in design, the new Big Bold also has an open-worked movement that’s intriguing despite being quartz. And the new “bio-sourced” material also adds to the appeal, as does the fact that it only costs a bit over US$100. The Big Bold is ergonomic, despite the seemingly massive diameter. With almost non-existent lugs, its lug-to-lug span is a mere 44.8 mm, a length more commonly found on watches with a diameter of around 36 mm. Despite the wide case, it wears well on most wrists, without a significant overhang on either side of the w...

The TAG Heuer Green Carrera Special Edition is the teal deal Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Green Carrera Special Edition May 10, 2021

The TAG Heuer Green Carrera Special Edition is the teal deal

Green. We all know it’s become the colour of the year, dominating the novelties across brands at Watches & Wonders last month. If 2020 was a sea of blue dials, it is now looking like a field of green. But with TAG Heuer’s latest release they have strategically presented a new novelty that offers consumers … ContinuedThe post The TAG Heuer Green Carrera Special Edition is the teal deal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watch photography made easy: How to master the pocket shot Time+Tide
Seiko Turtle there’s no denying May 10, 2021

Watch photography made easy: How to master the pocket shot

Introduction Whether it’s flaunting your bling or showing your mates just how good that new tropic strap looks on your Seiko Turtle, there’s no denying that the modern interest in watches is massively fuelled by Instagram,  Alongside the wrist roll and the flat-lay shot, one of the most popular depictions is the apparently casual pocket … ContinuedThe post Watch photography made easy: How to master the pocket shot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Charlie Paris Concordia Automatic offers vintage style tested in Antarctic blizzards Time+Tide
May 9, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Charlie Paris Concordia Automatic offers vintage style tested in Antarctic blizzards

Last week, you might have spotted the evocative Charlie Paris logo depicting a stork in flight during our story on the new French Wave of microbrands. Today, we turn to the brand’s heavyweight offering: the Charlie Paris Concordia Automatic diver’s watch. Available for pré-commande (come on, let’s do it the French way), it’s a fresh … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Charlie Paris Concordia Automatic offers vintage style tested in Antarctic blizzards appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL: A Masterclass In Flexures And Material Science Quill & Pad
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock May 9, 2021

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL: A Masterclass In Flexures And Material Science

The main focus of the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL is the technology behind the shock absorber, so the watch itself is a simple, three-hand, time-only piece with an ultra-clean dial and generally restrained aesthetic minimizing unnecessary distraction. Joshua Munchow dives in to take a closer look at the progressive compliant technology.

EDITOR’S PICK: Five mistakes I made along my watch collecting journey Time+Tide
May 8, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Five mistakes I made along my watch collecting journey

Editor’s Note: I put this list together last August in the hope that I could help people avoid the sort of costly mistakes I’ve made during my watch collecting journey.  Ten years ago there were fairly minimal digital resources for watch enthusiasts to dig into, but today the problem, if anything, is that there is … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Five mistakes I made along my watch collecting journey appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What does ‘batshit crazy’ mean to you? To me, Wei, Frank and RJ, it means these new watches… Time+Tide
May 8, 2021

What does ‘batshit crazy’ mean to you? To me, Wei, Frank and RJ, it means these new watches…

“Batshit crazy”, it turns out, is a phrase that means different things to different people. To me in a watch context, it means technical craziness. Lots of complications. Unnecessary but deeply impressive flexing of watchmaker muscle. To Wei it’s a state of mind. What watch would you be batshit crazy to wear on the mean … ContinuedThe post What does ‘batshit crazy’ mean to you? To me, Wei, Frank and RJ, it means these new watches… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Under the hammer: 5 timepieces to keep an eye on at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIII Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Rolex Richard Mille Cartier May 6, 2021

Under the hammer: 5 timepieces to keep an eye on at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIII

The Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XIII takes place in Switzerland this weekend with 236 stellar lots for bidders and enthusiasts to get excited about. Of course, you have some head-turning pieces from the usual suspects – Patek Philippe, Rolex, Richard Mille, Cartier and more. But after combing through the auction catalogue, I wanted to highlight … ContinuedThe post Under the hammer: 5 timepieces to keep an eye on at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIII appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

From Grand Seiko to Audemars Piguet, 4 watches that show musician James Blake is a serious watch guy Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet 4 watches May 6, 2021

From Grand Seiko to Audemars Piguet, 4 watches that show musician James Blake is a serious watch guy

If you’ve ever come across the singer and songwriter James Blake, you’ll know he’s got one of the best voices in the business and goes about his work with the detached cool of a guy that knows it. His unique style of ambient electronic music has won him critical acclaim and a global fan set, … ContinuedThe post From Grand Seiko to Audemars Piguet, 4 watches that show musician James Blake is a serious watch guy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Obituary: Gino Cukrowicz, Watch Retailer Extraordinaire (1959-2021) SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet May 6, 2021

Obituary: Gino Cukrowicz, Watch Retailer Extraordinaire (1959-2021)

A bon vivant from an era where many watch retailers were personalities, Gino Cukrowicz passed away in Singapore on May 6, 2021, just shy of his 62nd birthday. Gino was proprietor of Ginotti, a watch store in Belgium that he cofounded with Thierry Maldague in 1987, but perhaps best known as one of the partners in F.P. Journe. He’s pictured above with his wife Radhi and Francois-Paul Journe. A notable individual in both style and substance, Gino was always dressed in colours and eye-catching shoes, along with a large diamond stud on each year. Though Gino only owned a single watch store, his had an influence in the business, much like his peer Laurent Picciotto of Paris, because of his experience and taste. As a measure of his stature, Gino’s funeral service in Singapore included tributes from Francois-Henry Bennahmias and Patrick Pruniaux, the chief executives of Audemars Piguet and Ulysse Nardin respectively, as well as Masaki Saito, the longtime head of sales at F.P. Journe, and Jean-Claude Biver. Gino with Thierry Maldague outside Ginotti (left), and pictured in the 1990s. Photo – Shawn Mehta I last spoke with Gino at length in 2018, when he was in Singapore along with Francois-Paul Journe. Having arrived early for the interview with Mr Journe, I spent the time having a fascinating conversation with Gino, who had on his wrist an F.P. Journe Ruthenium Tourbillon with a platinum bracelet. He was frank, his outsized passion for independent watchmakers obvious, and hi...

Corum Golden Bridge: The ‘Automatic’ Legend Then And Now – Reprise Quill & Pad
Corum Golden Bridge May 6, 2021

Corum Golden Bridge: The ‘Automatic’ Legend Then And Now – Reprise

Before Joshua Munchow realized that he loved watches he was sure that he loved mechanical things and stood in awe of the many mechanisms and contraptions that he saw over his young life. Joshua eventually became aware of watches and the amazing marvels that they held within. To him, the Corum Golden Bridge stood out as an example of perfect horological exhibitionism. And the automatic version is even better to him!

VIDEO: Andrew, Frank, Wei & RJ pick the 4 best watches under $10k, including IWC, Oris and ‘rapper’s weed’ Time+Tide
Oris May 6, 2021

VIDEO: Andrew, Frank, Wei & RJ pick the 4 best watches under $10k, including IWC, Oris and ‘rapper’s weed’

Recently, myself, Frank from Monochrome, Wei from Revolution and RJ from Fratello got together for a Zoom call that had no loftier intention than to kill our boredom for a couple of hours. The idea was to talk about the winners and losers from Watches & Wonders, the same way we’ve done in the media … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Andrew, Frank, Wei & RJ pick the 4 best watches under $10k, including IWC, Oris and ‘rapper’s weed’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fury about the Australian Prime Minister’s “Rolex” actually fake news Time+Tide
Rolex actually fake news May 5, 2021

Fury about the Australian Prime Minister’s “Rolex” actually fake news

We all love a salacious story about a politician, especially when it makes them look like a rotten old hypocrite. Embattled Australian Prime Minister Scott Morrison has been the target of just that, with an image circulating online of him wearing what is said to be a “Rolex Cosmograph Daytona White Gold” apparently ringing up … ContinuedThe post Fury about the Australian Prime Minister’s “Rolex” actually fake news appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dubai Watch Week Returns In 2021: Mark Your Calendars For November 24-28, 2021! Quill & Pad
May 5, 2021

Dubai Watch Week Returns In 2021: Mark Your Calendars For November 24-28, 2021!

Following the uncertainty of the COVID-19 pandemic and the isolating feel of digital fairs, the prospect of a bright, sunny, warm, and welcoming in-person Dubai Watch Week warms our hearts immensely! And we are in for a real treat this time around for more reasons than simply celebrating a return to normality and the ability to touch and feel new watches and meet with old and new friends as Elizabeth Doerr explains.

We’ve teamed up with Fratello, Monochrome and Revolution to bring you the least official Watches & Wonders wrap possible Time+Tide
May 5, 2021

We’ve teamed up with Fratello, Monochrome and Revolution to bring you the least official Watches & Wonders wrap possible

Entertainment is an imperfect art, Zoom is no place to do a Watch Fair debrief, and the integrity of official awards in the watch industry is as eyebrow raising as ever.  So in the spirit of breaking apart as many of the above rules and issues as possible we bring you something that hopefully falls … ContinuedThe post We’ve teamed up with Fratello, Monochrome and Revolution to bring you the least official Watches & Wonders wrap possible appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.