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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

INTRODUCING: A strong 70s revival sees the reawakening of the Baume & Mercier Riviera Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Apr 7, 2021

INTRODUCING: A strong 70s revival sees the reawakening of the Baume & Mercier Riviera

Revisiting a distinct design with roots from 1973, Baume & Mercier has reinvented their Riviera range and we caught just as it was putting its gloves on and jumping into the ring to battle it out. What was it fighting for? I am, of course, talking about the legendary Integrated Bracelet Middleweight Belt and, yes, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A strong 70s revival sees the reawakening of the Baume & Mercier Riviera appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Tank Louis Cartier collection is a revival of Art Deco flamboyance Time+Tide
Cartier collection Apr 6, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Tank Louis Cartier collection is a revival of Art Deco flamboyance

The word icon gets thrown around a lot in the watch industry. Every manufacturer wants one and you can understand why. But  the Cartier Tank is without a doubt one of the fundamental pillars of watch design in the last century. While the Santos-Dumont collection has received a lot of attention from the brand in … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Tank Louis Cartier collection is a revival of Art Deco flamboyance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection looks to the future, not the past Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Apr 1, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection looks to the future, not the past

A watch doesn’t become a classic if designers keep radically altering the way that it looks. A classic design needs consistency and slow, gradual tweaks if it’s to make its mark in the history books. Rome wasn’t built in a day and neither was the Rado Captain Cook. But even a classic design can do … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection looks to the future, not the past appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection delivers a skeletonised update Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Mar 31, 2021

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection delivers a skeletonised update

How do you update a classic? It’s a problem that many designers face, whether they work in the watch industry, automotives or product design. How do you retain the original idea behind a design and still bring it forward into the here and now? This is a question that the Rado Captain Cook designers must … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection delivers a skeletonised update appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Iridium Torpedo is a budget-friendly dive watch with monster specs Time+Tide
Mar 28, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Iridium Torpedo is a budget-friendly dive watch with monster specs

The Iridium Torpedo arrives to offer a different take on the budget-friendly dive watch with monster specifications for minimum spending. With looks that stray closer to glamour than “tool watch”, it doesn’t shy away from being highly capable and seriously tough. The Torpedo is available with a black, blue, grey, or green dial, and the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Iridium Torpedo is a budget-friendly dive watch with monster specs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Kross Studio Introduces the Death Star Tourbillon SJX Watches
Mar 25, 2021

Kross Studio Introduces the Death Star Tourbillon

A startup that “specialises in creating innovative and exclusive art objects”, Kross Studio made its debut with the Batmobile clock, and has now turned to an even grander piece of pop culture for its first wristwatch. Modelled on the planetary genocide engine from Star Wars, the Death Star Tourbillon has a skeletonised globe on the dial that’s actually the cage of its central tourbillon. Created in collaboration with Lucasfilm, the Disney subsidiary that owns the movie franchise, the watch is actually part of the Death Star Ultimate Collector Set that includes a kyber crystal prop from Rogue One: A Star Wars Story, the 2016 film about the conception (and sabotage) of the original Death Star. Together, the two are very much something for the diehard Star Wars fan who happens to like watches. If Kross Studio’ quirky tilt towards pop culture feels similar, that’s because several of its founders are alumni of RJ-Romain Jerome, the defunct brand known for its Hello Kitty and Pokemon watches, including Marco Tedeschi, who was RJ’s chief executive prior to its demise, and Sergio Silva, the former head Romain Jerome’s manufacture. And the Romain Jerome connection is integral to the watch as well. Specifically, the idea for the central-tourbillon movement was actually conceived by Mr Tedeschi while he was studying micro-technical engineering at the École Technique de la Vallée de Joux (ETVJ). He later refined the idea and patented it in 2006. And in 2019, Mr ...

6 key differences between the new Omega Seamaster 300 and the previous generation Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster 300 Mar 23, 2021

6 key differences between the new Omega Seamaster 300 and the previous generation

When it comes to Omega dive watches, the Seamaster 300 is an enthusiast favourite. Yes, the Diver 300M collection is hugely popular, but for those who aren’t after a contemporary design and prefer the softer and more balanced designs of the Omega archives, then the Seamaster 300 is where you may well eventually find yourself. … ContinuedThe post 6 key differences between the new Omega Seamaster 300 and the previous generation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Introduces the Presage Sharp Edged GMT SJX Watches
Grand Seiko but Mar 22, 2021

Seiko Introduces the Presage Sharp Edged GMT

Named after the planar, angular case, the Sharp Edged series is one of the most striking lines in the affordable Presage collection. The latest addition to the range is the Presage Sharp Edged GMT, the first models that go beyond time-only. With a larger case and new movement, the new GMT references – SPB217, SPB219, SPB221, and SPB225 – retain the asanoha dial pattern and case design of current models, while incorporating a second time zone function and power reserve indicator. Initial thoughts It’s pretty clear that the Sharp Edges models were conceive to offer some of the Grand Seiko, but in a less elaborate watch at a more accessible price. So it’s not surprising the new Sharp Edged GMT watches resemble the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT released last year. The dial layout is similar, as is the styling of the angular, faceted case. In many ways, the Sharp Edged GMT is the smaller brother of its Grand Seiko counterpart and one sharp-looking watch – no pun intended. Importantly, the Sharp Edged GMT is identical to the Grand Seiko GMT in terms of function. It is a true GMT watch – the second time zone hand can be set independently whilst the seconds hand is running. Majority of GMT watches in its price range are conventional movement with an added 24-hour hand, which makes setting the two time zones more tedious. Ultimately, the main attraction of the Sharp Edged GMT is its affordability. With a retail of US$1,380, the watch doesn’t have much competition ...

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Kojima Productions Limited Edition SSH097 Time+Tide
Seiko Astron GPS Solar Kojima Mar 22, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Kojima Productions Limited Edition SSH097

Seiko’s pop culture collaborations have offered a sensational demonstration of playfulness and creativity in watch design of late. You need only look to their Street Fighter or Naruto-inspired Seiko 5 lineups to see just how unique these watches can be, but the latest collaboration with recently-independent Kojima Productions takes things up a notch, bypassing the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Kojima Productions Limited Edition SSH097 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Tissot PRX is a bargain-priced utility player on an integrated bracelet Time+Tide
Tissot PRX Mar 20, 2021

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Tissot PRX is a bargain-priced utility player on an integrated bracelet

Our European Editor, Mike Christensen, tested out the new Tissot PRX, a throwback to a classic design from 1978. After a week on the wrist, here is what he made of one of the most accessibly priced integrated bracelet watches around. What was your first impression? Hear me out here, but… surely I’m not the … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Tissot PRX is a bargain-priced utility player on an integrated bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The 2021 Longines Legend Divers freshen up heritage looks with modern notes Time+Tide
Longines Legend Divers freshen up Mar 16, 2021

INTRODUCING: The 2021 Longines Legend Divers freshen up heritage looks with modern notes

The heritage trend has definitely saturated the marketplace with virtually every manufacturer looking to their past to create interest in their products. Some do this better than others. With the current ubiquity of the faux-patinated aesthetic, designs have to be pushed even further to stand out. Re-interpretations of heritage designs typically signal that the design … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The 2021 Longines Legend Divers freshen up heritage looks with modern notes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Remakes the Mountaineer’s Watch of 1959 SJX Watches
Seiko Remakes Mar 16, 2021

Seiko Remakes the Mountaineer’s Watch of 1959

A longtime fan favourite, the modern-day Alpinist is synonymous with a forest-green dial and inner rotating bezel. But the origins of the model date to 1959, when Seiko introduced the first Alpinist as part of the Laurel brand. Today’s Alpinist has evolved a long way from the original, but now Seiko has returned the watch to its roots with a “re-creation” of the 1959 design. The 1959 Alpinist Re-creation is a somewhat faithful remake of the first Alpinist that was conceived as no-frills watch for mountaineers. At the same time, Seiko is also unveiling the simpler and more affordable The 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-interpretation. The vintage original of 1959 Initial thoughts Because it’s very much a mid-20th century design, the Alpinist reissues have a good blend of sportiness and elegance. The round cases are compact, giving them a slightly a dressy feel, but the dials are simple and legible, along with a more-than-capable watch case with substantial water resistance. The best thing about the watch is its design, which is minimalist but not plain. The markers are oversized and slightly decorative, and matched with a minute track that evokes a sector dial. Just 36.6 mm wide, the Re-creation is particularly good looking with its symmetrical layout and deep, glossy black finish. It also avoids the faux-vintage colour palette, resulting in a look that is retro but refreshingly modern. That said, its date window is squeezed between four and five o’clock, which is a l...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Rolex that changed its red and blue stripes, catch-ups on Clubhouse and IRL and the collectability of G-Shock Time+Tide
Rolex Mar 11, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Rolex that changed its red and blue stripes, catch-ups on Clubhouse and IRL and the collectability of G-Shock

Let me start by saying that I’ve had quite the week. Summer doesn’t seem to want to end, the T+T Team are working really hard on a few very exciting projects that we’ll be able to announce soon, but that wasn’t all. We were lucky enough to attend the first watch event in real life … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Rolex that changed its red and blue stripes, catch-ups on Clubhouse and IRL and the collectability of G-Shock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Oris Pro Pilot TLP Limited Edition soars with a distinctive olive green dial Time+Tide
Oris Pro Pilot TLP Limited Mar 9, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Oris Pro Pilot TLP Limited Edition soars with a distinctive olive green dial

The pilot’s watch category is one of the most popular segments in the watch industry. With the number of pilot’s watches on the market, each new novelty has to be that much more strategic to figure out how to capture the hearts of buyers. To stand out, you have to be true to the design … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Oris Pro Pilot TLP Limited Edition soars with a distinctive olive green dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Special Edition Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Special Edition Mar 4, 2021

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Special Edition

It doesn’t feel like that long ago since Lewis Hamilton became the most decorated F1 driver of all time, winning his seventh world championship in November after a COVID-disrupted but nevertheless enjoyable 2020 season. Now, with less than a month until the 2021 calendar kicks off in Bahrain, there is no shortage of things to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Special Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Novel, Made-in-Russia Ouroboros SJX Watches
Feb 28, 2021

Introducing the Novel, Made-in-Russia Ouroboros

Conceived by Russian watch journalist Mikhail Goncharov and executed with the help of watchmaker Maxim Sushkov, the Ouroboros is a simple-but-smart take on the 24-hour time display. The watch evolved from an idea of Mr Goncharov’s, which combines a novel time display along with design elements from the Jewish faith. Initial thoughts Unusual and striking, the Ouroboros is imaginative in how it conveys the time, but also surprisingly straightforward mechanically. As a result it is notably affordable, starting at about US$2,700 for the steel version. The case appears basic in style and finish, but it is sufficient given the cost of the watch. The only possible shortcoming of the watch might be the obvious elements related to Judaism, like the case back motif for instance, which might not be suitable for everyone, but they do not take away from the intrinsic appeal of the watch. The snake eating its own tail The watch gets its name from the ouroboros, an ancient symbol of life and renewal that is represented by a serpent or dragon consuming its own tail, forming a circle or a figure of eight. The ouroboros forms the minute hand, which is a dragon rendered in considerable detail. Its eye is inlaid with a tiny piece of metal taken from a missile of Iron Dome, the air-defence system employed by Israel to protect against short-range rockets. Mr Goncharov describes the tiny missile fragment as a protective talisman within the watch. Also specific to Israel is the dial, which ...

VIDEO: The H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph refuses to play by the rules Time+Tide
H. Moser Feb 26, 2021

VIDEO: The H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph refuses to play by the rules

Just when we had finally sussed out the design language of Moser they have another ace up their sleeve and it seems to be a very big sleeve indeed. The H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph still feels new, even after being out for almost a year and, with its timeless vibe, I suspect that’ll … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph refuses to play by the rules appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Ultimate Travel-Time Tourbillon SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces Feb 25, 2021

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Ultimate Travel-Time Tourbillon

An independent watchmaker exemplified by chronometric complications and movement decoration, Greubel Forsey has created its own distinctive style that mixes classical finishing and ideas with contemporary design, giving it a unique position in the landscape. The brand is best known for its elaborate tourbillons, but it also offers practical, everyday complications, albeit combined with tourbillons. Now, for the 10th anniversary of its first GMT model, Greubel Forsey has unleashed the GMT Quadruple Tourbillon in titanium. Likely the most complex GMT watch on the market, it’s regulated by twin double-axis tourbillons, while conveniently telling the time in two time zones and also around the world with a rotating globe. Originally launched in white gold, it’s now in titanium, match with a restrained blue-and-grey palette. Initial thoughts Greubel Forsey’s GMT complication can be found in a surprisingly broad range of watches, from old-school complications with traditional aesthetics to a modern sports watch, but it is always paired with a tourbillon. A second time zone function is elementary next to a tourbillon, but by combining the two, Greubel Forsey raises the bar for a dual-time watch – in both technical accomplishment and price. The GMT Quadruple Tourbillon is perhaps the most technically impressive and meticulously finished travel-time watch – and the new titanium-and-blue version looks magnificent. In fact, I am convinced that the latest version of the G...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Ark from Jacob Veil might be the best value integrated bracelet watch around Time+Tide
Feb 21, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Ark from Jacob Veil might be the best value integrated bracelet watch around

Let’s not beat around the bush, I can see it too. The Gerald Genta influence is strong here, but in a somewhat butcher presence than other arboreally named references and porthole-alike wristwear. So before you start throwing punches, yes, certain design cues are notable in The Ark from Jacob Veil. But maybe those cues have … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Ark from Jacob Veil might be the best value integrated bracelet watch around appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

BOOK REVIEW: The Reverso book, 90 years of a timeless Art Deco masterpiece, ready for your coffee table Time+Tide
Feb 18, 2021

BOOK REVIEW: The Reverso book, 90 years of a timeless Art Deco masterpiece, ready for your coffee table

Rectangles, what do they mean? According to whiteriverdesign.com, these shapes represent stability. In fact, the rectangle is the most commonly used area shape in logo design. The reason for its popularity, apparently, is that it is a trusted familiar shape that represents honesty, solidity and stability. As squares and rectangles have straight lines and right … ContinuedThe post BOOK REVIEW: The Reverso book, 90 years of a timeless Art Deco masterpiece, ready for your coffee table appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Don’t miss out – the new Kurono Chronograph 2 from the cult Japanese brand will sell out fast Time+Tide
Feb 16, 2021

INTRODUCING: Don’t miss out – the new Kurono Chronograph 2 from the cult Japanese brand will sell out fast

I have been a huge fan of Kurono watches since their introduction. Master watchmaker Hajime Asaoka should be applauded for the brand’s mission of trying to make high-quality timepieces more accessible to consumers. What really makes Kurono so intriguing, beyond these more approachable price points, is the design language utilised across the various lines. This … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Don’t miss out – the new Kurono Chronograph 2 from the cult Japanese brand will sell out fast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph is a collaboration that makes perfect sense Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph Feb 16, 2021

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph is a collaboration that makes perfect sense

Collaboration has become the name of the game. Be it in music, fashion or watchmaking, we’ve never seen such a diverse meeting of minds from around the world. But many collaborations leave you scratching your head, especially when two brands that have nothing in common come together to make a product that doesn’t make sense. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph is a collaboration that makes perfect sense appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SBGW264 reinforces the brand’s bid to become the king of dials Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGW264 reinforces Feb 10, 2021

VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SBGW264 reinforces the brand’s bid to become the king of dials

Grand Seiko never disappoints with their novelties. Some creations may not be for your taste or budget, but it is very rare (if ever) you fail to appreciate the supreme value in their timepieces. Gorgeous Zaratsu finishes, colourful and nature-inspired dials, tasty textures throughout – the brand’s grammar of design is a winning formula for … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Grand Seiko SBGW264 reinforces the brand’s bid to become the king of dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines Remakes  the 1950s Silver Arrow SJX Watches
Longines Remakes Feb 10, 2021

Longines Remakes the 1950s Silver Arrow

Named after the aluminium-bodied Mercedes-Benz Formula 1 cars of the 1950s, the Longines Silver Arrow was introduced in 1956. Typical of mid-20th century gentlemen’s watches, the Silver Arrow is a functional but elegant design with a discreet flourish in the form of fluted hour markers. Notably, the Silver Arrow was first reproduced about a decade ago, but with a date and simpler execution all around. Now it returns as a more sophisticated remake that is far closer to the vintage original, but with a latest generation ETA movement equipped with a silicon hairspring. Initial thoughts Like the brand’s other recent remakes, the Silver Arrow maintains the look and feel of the original, albeit enlarged as most reproductions are. The dial has the details of the original, as does the thin case and even the crown. Longines’ Heritage remakes are often modelled on military-issue or sports watches, resulting in a strongly utilitarian aesthetic. The Silver Arrow is different, offering another look while still preserving the strong value of Longines’ historical remakes. Priced at US$2,100, the Silver Arrow will be difficult to beat in terms of classical watches in its price segment. Silver Arrow redux The silver dial features unusual, fluted indices just like the vintage original. That, along with the sword hands and correct typography create a faithful replica of the 1956 Silver Arrow. As is standard practice, the remake is larger than the original, although the new Silver Arr...