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Vallée de Joux village; home of Jaeger-LeCoultre since 1833 and Blancpain since 1992 revival.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Zelos Mako V3 Ti delivers a titanium diver for under $500

MICRO MONDAYS: The Zelos Mako V3 Ti delivers a titanium diver for under $500

At Time-Tide, we have a history of covering the new releases of Elshan Tang, the owner and designer behind Zelos Watches in Singapore, and he seldom disappoints. I wouldn’t be exaggerating by proclaiming his prolific output to be a milestone that many a budding microbrand owner aims for and it’ll take more than a mere … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Zelos Mako V3 Ti delivers a titanium diver for under $500 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Gincredible! How And Why Gin Went From Murderous Swill To 007-Level Cool – Reprise

Gincredible! How And Why Gin Went From Murderous Swill To 007-Level Cool – Reprise

In eighteenth-century England, a typical sign outside a gin shop read, “Drunk for a penny. Dead drunk for twopence. Clean straw for nothing.” But by the twentieth century Sir Winston Churchill reported that, “The gin and tonic has saved more Englishmen’s lives, and minds, than all the doctors in the Empire.” Ken Gargett fills his glass and takes a look at the evolution of gin. Cheers!

Girard-Perregaux 230th Anniversary Exhibition in Singapore

Girard-Perregaux 230th Anniversary Exhibition Jul 28, 2021

Girard-Perregaux 230th Anniversary Exhibition in Singapore

In celebration of its 230th anniversary, Girard-Perregaux has extracted part of its museum collection and sent it across the world to Singapore, where they form an exhibition on the watchmaker’s history. Shaping The Know Since 1791 provides a peek into the company’s past milestones and timepieces, illustrated by a diversity of items on show, ranging from enamelled pocket watches from the late 18th century to an ultra-modern wristwatch with its case and bridges in sapphire crystal. Pocket watches Though the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges is Girard-Perregaux’s best known complication, the brand is instead focusing on its wider repertoire in the exhibition. Arranged in a chronological manner, the company’s history is explained with a series of displays that include notes as well as representative watches of each era, from the 18th to 21st centuries. Notable contemporary pieces include the original Laureato from 1975, as well as the avant-garde Quasar Light that reinterprets the brand’s iconic triple bridges in sapphire crystal. The original Laureato that was quartz the exhibition unfolds the brand’s unusual origins: while husband-and-wife Constant Girard and Marie Perregaux founded the brand in 1856, the company later acquired Jean-François Bautte, a brand that was established in 1791, explaining the 230th anniversary in 2021. A pioneer in ultra-thin timepieces, Bautte specialised in pocket watches decorated with enamel and gemstones, reflecting the prevail...

Massena Lab Refreshes the Uni-Racer with Fun Colours

Massena Lab Refreshes Jul 26, 2021

Massena Lab Refreshes the Uni-Racer with Fun Colours

Massena Lab is a design studio that got its start collaborating with independent watchmakers on limited edition timepieces. But the firm more recently unveiled watches under its own label, starting with last year’s Uni-Racer, a chronograph modelled on the mid-20th century Universal Genève “Big Eye” chronograph. Founded by William Rohr, best known for being the former manager of the Timezone.com watch forum, Massena Lab follows up with the Uni-Racer Holiday Collection, a trio of chronographs time clad in funky colours with a retro bent that bring to mind watches of the 1970s. Initial thoughts Vintage remakes have been trendy for several years now, and the sheer number of them mean they are often hit-or-miss. It’s rare for a remake to get the details right – especially since the case and movement are modern – something that takes a keen eye to decide what to copy and what to tweak. Mr Rohr’s creations often get the details right – the two-tone sector dial jumping seconds and gilt dial chronograph are cases in point – reflecting his decades of watch collecting. And importantly they are fairly priced. But the Uni-Racer Chronograph stands out from Massena Lab’s portfolio to date. Not only was it the first watch to bear the Massena Lab brand, but it was a near-exact copy of the vintage original – which split opinions and elicited lots of vocal critiques on social media. Uni-Racer “Rally” Still, for anyone who appreciates old-school design, ...

Zenith DEFY Midnight Watch brands Jul 20, 2021

Why this is the ideal brand partner for the Zenith DEFY Midnight

Watch brands always want you to write about their new ambassadors / friends of the brand. Whenever such opportunities are dangled, there’s a tacit understanding that there’ll be at least some watch-related chat to ensure the brand’s product gets the exposure it deserves. That’s just how it works. The problem is that during such an … ContinuedThe post Why this is the ideal brand partner for the Zenith DEFY Midnight appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 03-94 Patrouille de France

Bell & Ross Introduces Jul 14, 2021

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 03-94 Patrouille de France

Bell & Ross has long supplied timekeepers to various French military and police units, ranging from the bomb disposal team of the national civil defence agency to the tactical unit of the National Gendarmerie, GIGN. The brand was recently tapped to become the official watchmaker to the Patrouille de France, the famed aeronautics team of the Armée de l’Air et de l’Espace, the French Air and Space Force. To inaugurate the partnership, Bell & Ross has unveiled the BR 03-94 Patrouille de France, a limited edition designed in collaboration with the nine pilots of the aerobatics team. Cased in matte black ceramic, the chronograph has a dial in the colours of the French flag, along with the team logo at six o’clock. It is a 500-piece limited edition available to the public, while team members of the Patrouille de France will be issued with the same watch, but powered by a quartz movement. Initial thoughts Bell & Ross has made a variety of air force-unit watches in the past, as have other brands. Breitling, for instance, recently debuted an edition dedicated to the Red Arrows, the aerobatics team of the Royal Air Force. The Patrouille de France edition, however, stands apart in an important aspect: the members of the Patrouille de France – nine pilots and 35 engineers – are actually kitted out with an almost-identical watch. Produced in a run of 100 watches, the official-issue team watch is identical to the civilian version featured here, but it has a quartz movement ...

Let’s go to work: The best watches for every job from white collar to tech

Let’s go to work: The best watches for every job from white collar to tech

Whether you’re keeping a close eye on the stockmarkets, laying girders at a construction site or swapping stacks in a server room, your love for watches (which I’m just going to assume because, well, you’re reading this) means you’ll want a timepiece on your wrist. And not just any timepiece; you’ll want something that both … ContinuedThe post Let’s go to work: The best watches for every job from white collar to tech appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Only Watch 2021: Charles Girardier 1809 Tribute to Jackson Pollock

Bulgari Jul 11, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Charles Girardier 1809 Tribute to Jackson Pollock

While named after a late-18th century Swiss watchmaker, Charles Girardier is a startup, having been established in 2018 by Patrick A. Ulm, a Swiss private banker with a passion for watches. The brand focuses on tourbillon wristwatches, but enhanced with elements inspired by vintage Charles Girardier pocket watches, such as paillonnee enamel dials and its whimsical “mysterious” complication. Its Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse Fleur de Sel won the Ladies’ Complications Watch Prize at last year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve, beating out competition from big names like Bulgari and Piaget. For Only Watch 2021, Charles Girardier created the 1809 Tribute to Jackson Pollock, a wristwatch with a figure-of-eight dial layout in grand feu enamel and an unusual automatic movement with a peripheral rotor. Initial thoughts Being relatively young, Charles Girardier only has one model to its name so far, the Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse. Still, it’s a technically interesting watch, making it a useful starting point for an Only Watch edition. The Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse is symmetrical – both on the front and the back. The dial is arranged in a figure-of-eight, with a flying tourbillon at six, and the “mysterious” complication at twelve. The “mysterious” complication is the brand emblem that spins freely, thanks to a weight on its back that’s hidden under the dial. It gives the dial dynamism, though the “mysterious” complication feels a b...

Only Watch 2021: Breguet Type XX

Breguet Type XX Breguet has Jul 6, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Breguet Type XX

Breguet has an unexpectedly long history in military watches dating back over a century, but its best known military timepieces are undoubtedly the aviator’s chronographs made for the mid-century French Air Force and navy. It was one such watch that inspired the Type 20 Only Watch 2019. For this year’s Only Watch auction, Breguet turned pivoted to the civilian-market equivalent with the Type XX Only Watch 2021. Breguet incorporated details not found on the 2019 watch, namely a “Big Eye” register as well as a 12-hour bezel. Together, this and its predecessor form a perfect pair that encapsulate Breguet’s 20th century pilot’s chronographs. Initial thoughts The result achieved by the Type 20 at Only Watch 2019 – Breguet has supported the charity since its inauguration in 2005 – makes the motivation behind yet another pilot’s watch clear. While the technically-impressive in-line perpetual calendar created for Only Watch 2017 sold for CHF110,000, the Type 20 achieved fetched CHF210,000 – twice as much despite being a steel watch with a simple movement. The Type XX conveniently sticks to the same formula, making it almost interchangeable with the Type 20 at a distance. Most obvious is the milk-chocolate dial, which evokes the aged “tropical” dials of vintage examples. The rich, even colour allows it to stand on its own as a modern-day take on an old look. It’s achieves a nostalgic feel without trying too hard. But it is in exactly the same shade as ...

Only Watch 2021: Urwerk UR-102 “Gaïa”

Urwerk UR-102 “Gaïa” While several Jul 2, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Urwerk UR-102 “Gaïa”

While several of the watchmakers taking part in Only Watch 2021 have turned to historical timepieces for inspiration, all have created new watches for the biennial charity auction, except for Urwerk. An intriguing blend of new and vintage, the UR-102 “Gaïa” is actually one of the brand’s earliest watches that’s been given a new case back decor. Launched in 1997, the UR-102 had a low-cost aluminium case contrasted with a platinum case back, along with a wandering hours display. Urwerk retrieved an original example of the UR-102 to create the Gaïa, which is named after the watchmaking industry prize Urwerk’s twin founders received in 2020. The Gaïa preserves the aluminium case and movement, but its platinum back has been finished with a speckled, blue-lacquer motif inspired by the Gaïa Prize trophy. Initial thoughts While the complexity and materials of the UR-102 “Gaïa” pale in comparison to the brand’s modern-day creations, the Gaïa is significant for the brand both intrinsically and philosophically. The watch itself is historically important, being one of the brand’s first watches, while the reference to the Gaïa Prize is a symbol of Urwerk’s success since the difficult early days when the UR-102 was introduced. In fact, the watch encapsulates Urwerk’s progress over the past 25 years in a tangible sense, with the aluminium case of its early days now bearing the Gaïa Prize motif that exemplifies its success. UFO The Gaïa retains much of th...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Nick Kenyon says farewell, a new Zenith collection and making Sydney’s lockdown bearable

Zenith collection Jul 1, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Nick Kenyon says farewell, a new Zenith collection and making Sydney’s lockdown bearable

After two of the most enjoyable years of my working life, today is my last day at Time+Tide. It’s a bittersweet feeling: bitter because of how I’ll miss the T+T team, but sweet with the knowledge that Time+Tide is in such a strong position as I say goodbye. I’m off to write about a wider … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Nick Kenyon says farewell, a new Zenith collection and making Sydney’s lockdown bearable appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Pierce Brosnan really loves a dress watch and is fed up of Bond

Pierce Brosnan really loves a dress watch and is fed up of Bond

Getting frustrated wondering if you’ll ever get to see the endlessly delayed new James Bond film, No Time To Die? Well, count yourself lucky that you’re not Pierce Brosnan. The actor who stepped into 007’s shoes to play Bond from 1995 to 2002, admitted last week that he’s fed up of getting quizzed as to … ContinuedThe post Pierce Brosnan really loves a dress watch and is fed up of Bond appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Worldtimers, Erotic Watches, And Poker-Playing Dogs: A.H.C.I. Co-Founder Svend Andersen Has (Semi-) Retired, But His Brand Lives On – Reprise

Late in 2015 the news came through that A.H.C.I. co-founder Svend Andersen had sold his company. But how did Andersen get here? Let's take a quick tour of more than half a century's worth of independent horology the Danish way to find out, which includes an extravaganza of worldtimers, unusual erotic watches, and even poker-playing dogs.

In-Depth: This Pièce Unique Vacheron Is Proof That Sometimes, They Do Make 'Em Like They Used To

In-Depth: This Pièce Unique Vacheron Is Proof That Sometimes, They Do Make 'Em Like They Used To

Made with century-old components and hundred-year old skills, the 1921 Pièce Unique is a time capsule of a timepiece.

Introducing: The Seiko Presage Style 60's

Seiko Jun 23, 2021

Introducing: The Seiko Presage Style 60's

Two new non-chronograph models, based on a mid-century Seiko chronograph.

HODINKEE Radio: What Watches Can Learn From Streetwear – And Vice Versa

HODINKEE Radio: What Watches Can Learn From Streetwear – And Vice Versa

Rhuigi Villaseñor of LA luxury street brand Rhude explains how vintage watches nearly bankrupted him. Plus, Brendon Babenzien (founder of New York menswear brand Noah) addresses the famous Thanksgiving turtle watch.

Business News: 'BreitlingSelect' Brings A Watch Subscription Program To Your Wrist (Updated)

Business News: 'BreitlingSelect' Brings A Watch Subscription Program To Your Wrist (Updated)

I'll gladly pay you Tuesday for a Breitling today.

Introducing: The Seiko Prospex 140th Anniversary Limited Edition SPB213 (Live Pics & Pricing)

Seiko Jun 23, 2021

Introducing: The Seiko Prospex 140th Anniversary Limited Edition SPB213 (Live Pics & Pricing)

(James emits a low whistle).

Interview: The Baker Behind The Internet's Favorite Watch Cookies

Interview: The Baker Behind The Internet's Favorite Watch Cookies

She'll turn your beloved Rolex, Patek, and Omega into edible treats. And she'll ship them right to your door.

Vintage Watches: A 1970s Cartier Santos-Dumont, A 1960s Heuer Autavia Retailed By Abercrombie & Fitch, And A 1960s Favre-Leuba Deep Blue

Favre Leuba Jun 23, 2021

Vintage Watches: A 1970s Cartier Santos-Dumont, A 1960s Heuer Autavia Retailed By Abercrombie & Fitch, And A 1960s Favre-Leuba Deep Blue

Grab a cup of coffee – with this wide selection of vintage, you'll need it.

How They Made It: Wooden Wheels With 300 Years Of History

How They Made It: Wooden Wheels With 300 Years Of History

Rick Hale finds inspiration in the work of 18th-century clockmaker John Harrison.

The Collectors: Stuart Parr - Hodinkee Magazine

The Collectors: Stuart Parr - Hodinkee Magazine

In the right hands, mid-century Italian motorcycles become genuine contemporary art.

What does Kim Jong Un’s watch tell us about how his lifespan and global politics?

What does Kim Jong Un’s watch tell us about how his lifespan and global politics?

Kim Jong Un is the leader of North Korea and understandably has a lot on his plate. From United States offers to meet and discuss his nuclear program to the issue of food running low throughout his kingdom, he doesn’t have the time to slowly and carefully select his watch every morning, so he wears … ContinuedThe post What does Kim Jong Un’s watch tell us about how his lifespan and global politics? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Downsizing to 36mm opens up a world of value – this TAG Heuer Chronograph is the solid-gold proof

TAG Heuer Chronograph Jun 20, 2021

Downsizing to 36mm opens up a world of value – this TAG Heuer Chronograph is the solid-gold proof

I love vintage reissues, especially smaller sizes truer to the originals, but do you know what? When you appreciate the delights of 36-38mm watches, you’ll also find that the joy is threefold. There are real bargains to be found on the pre-loved market, the comfort is sublime, plus you also have a better chance of … ContinuedThe post Downsizing to 36mm opens up a world of value – this TAG Heuer Chronograph is the solid-gold proof appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Debuts the Type XXI 3815 Limited Edition

Breguet Debuts Jun 17, 2021

Breguet Debuts the Type XXI 3815 Limited Edition

While Breguet is associated with classical timepieces – and a history laden with gems that continue to inspire watchmakers today – it does have a significant history with military watches. In the mid-20th century, Breguet, along with a few other watchmakers, supplied the French military with the “Type 20” aviator’s chronograph. Breguet has referenced that military history since the military-inspired Type XX of 1994, which was succeeded by the more complex Type XXI and Type XXII. And now Breguet has just unveiled the Type XXI 3815, which has a titanium case and strikingly peculiar dials in two colours. The version with orange “lume” is especially striking Initial thoughts Breguet has been iterating the Type 20 for almost 30 years – rumour has it a replacement for the base model is due next year – and the Type XXI was an upgrade to the original that never gained the popularity of the original. The new Type XXI 3815 is the third variant of the model to date, and perhaps a missed opportunity. Most elements on the watch are taken from historical models, each correct on its own way – including faux-radium lume and a “big eye” register – but combined haphazardly. The result is an aesthetic that tries to be bold but ends up looking odd. The combination of elements on the dial leaves it off balance. The “big eye” counter feels too big, creating the impression it is far off centre, while the text under 12 o’clock leaves the dial top heavy. Add to t...

6 Hublot Soccer Ambassadors Ready For The European Championships With The Big Bang e UEFA Euro 2020

Hublot Soccer Ambassadors Ready Jun 11, 2021

6 Hublot Soccer Ambassadors Ready For The European Championships With The Big Bang e UEFA Euro 2020

In the spirit of enjoying soccer again at the highest level, Elizabeth Doerr highlights six Hublot ambassadors and friends of the brand associated with Euro 2020. They'll be wearing the limited edition Big Bang e UEFA Euro 2020 smartwatch, which features an app dedicated to soccer enabling users to follow the competition in real time.

Should you get buried wearing a favourite watch or is it the ultimate waste of time?

Should you get buried wearing a favourite watch or is it the ultimate waste of time?

Jazz legend Miles Davis was buried with one of his beloved trumpets nestling by his side. The Beat Generation novelist William Burroughs was laid to rest with a loaded revolver, a sword cane, a ballpoint pen, a fedora and a joint. Frank Sinatra’s coffin meanwhile included a bottle of Jack Daniel’s, a pack of Camel … ContinuedThe post Should you get buried wearing a favourite watch or is it the ultimate waste of time? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

SPOTTED: The custom Ben Baller BAPE x Kid Cudi x G-Shock DW-6900

SPOTTED: The custom Ben Baller BAPE x Kid Cudi x G-Shock DW-6900

As A$AP Ferg rapped in his 2017 track Plain Jane, “Ferg is the name, Ben Baller did the chain,” solidifying the LA jeweller Ben Baller as the goldsmith of choice for hip-hop royalty. Ben has made jewellery for everyone who’s anyone, including Drake, Kanye West, Nas, The Weeknd, Snoop Dogg and Mariah Carey. He made the … ContinuedThe post SPOTTED: The custom Ben Baller BAPE x Kid Cudi x G-Shock DW-6900 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Three curious takeaways from the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic launch

Tudor Black Bay Ceramic launch May 26, 2021

Three curious takeaways from the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic launch

Wow. If you read my latest Tudor article detailing our favorite rumours ahead of the May 25th launch you’ll understand my shock yesterday morning when the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic was unveiled. Tudor, Rolex’s younger sibling within the Wilsdorf group, has clearly established it is the more adventurous brand of the duo (after all, their … ContinuedThe post Three curious takeaways from the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic launch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Recreating the Vacheron Constantin American 1921 One Hundred Years Later

Vacheron Constantin American 1921 One Hundred May 25, 2021

In-Depth: Recreating the Vacheron Constantin American 1921 One Hundred Years Later

As one of Vacheron Constantin’s most distinctive timepieces marks its 100th anniversary, the watchmaker rolled out a handful of jubilee models during Watches & Wonders 2021 for the occasion, most notably the extremely good looking American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine. But Vacheron Constantin had something else up its sleeve for the 1921’s century – something really special – a near-exact recreation of the vintage original from 1921. Christened the American 1921 Pièce Unique, the watch is a one-off created as a joint project by the brand’s Restoration Workshop and Heritage Department, overseen by Style & Heritage Director Christian Selmoni, whose long tenure at Vacheron Constantin means he is practically the brand’s institutional memory. The watch is more than just a visual replica – an identical case and movement is a given – but even the most minor of details have been reproduced faithfully, right down to the gold alloy of the case and period-correct vintage parts from its archives. Initial thoughts While the modern-day American 1921 is a fan-favourite, it necessarily omits some of the finer details of the vintage original, in order to cater to current tastes as well as production methods. As such, even the most-delicious Collection Excellence Platine edition can be critiqued, for the mismatch in hand colours or the seemingly misaligned seconds register. In contrast, the recreation is satisfyingly spot on, which give it an attractive, bona fi...