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Quill & Pad
This is a family affair: a story of Ian's wife Brigitte, her horse Gucci, his father Neil, and an engraved Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique. And this is a good example of how and why you might want to commission a work of art on the back of a Reverso.
Time+Tide
One of the reasons that watch collecting is so fascinating is its thematic diversity. A timepiece is a wrist-bound intersection for history, culture and the audacity of the human spirit. The only thing is that – whisper it quietly – it’s not always particularly sexy. Eyed from certain angles, the watch world often looks to … ContinuedThe post Five people who made watches sexy again… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko has been celebrating its 60th Anniversary these past few weeks and months, but during today’s Grand Seiko USA webinar some huge news was announced regarding the future of Grand Seiko USA, as well as a new watch – the Grand Seiko SBGE263 US Limited Edition. The 110 watches are a nod to the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGE263 GS9 Club US Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A Dane who spent eight years restoring the treasures of the Patek Philippe Museum, Christian Lass set up his own workshop in 2018 and has just unveiled his first timepiece, the 30CP. Inspired by mid-20th century Swiss timepieces – as many such watches are – the 30CP is powered by a movement of Mr Lass’ own design. Beyond its flowing lines and fine finishing, the movement is also notable for its intriguing “special hairspring adjuster floating on a ruby ball” that is based on a mechanism Abraham-Louis Breguet invented for marine chronometers. Initial thoughts The success of Philippe Dufour, and more recently Akrivia, has fuelled a slow proliferation of independent watchmakers specialising in highly-finished, time-only watches. Mr Lass, however, has managed to do something subtly different. Though the 30CP has a conventional, classical aesthetic on the front, the movement is unexpected. Its architecture is defined by flowing lines – the arched, almost wave-like balance bridge is particularly interesting – as well as some symmetry. But it is more than a pretty face, for Mr Lass has managed to incorporate a hairspring adjuster arm that pivots on a ruby ball. The combination of movement aesthetics and the adjuster help set the 30CP apart from its peers. I have yet to see the 30CP in the metal, but the photos of the prototype already indicate a high quality of decoration, which will surely be refined in the production watches. Simple done excellent “The main idea...
Time+Tide
Are there any manufacturers that do quartz better than Grand Seiko? The brand, after all, makes their own quartz crystals in-house and upholds them to the most rigorous standards of accuracy – the 9F series of movements, for example, are regulated to run within +/- 10 seconds per year at a minimum. The deviation is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGX341 is a formidable everyday option appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is a legend for a reason. It was the first luxury integrated steel sports watch, and would go on to define arguably the most popular category of watches available today. But in the decades since it was first released, there have been countless different expressions of the iconic octagonal design. … ContinuedThe post BATTLE ROYALE: What is the best Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ever? The T+T team fight it out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
For anyone who spends a lot of time on social media, and cruises around Time+Tide’s Instagram on a regular basis, they’ll probably already know that our Bamford x Time+Tide GMT1 sold out in 26 hours over the weekend. And for those who happened to tune in to Insta Stories over the weekend, they’ll also know … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Thank you for making our Bamford collab, our first-ever watch, a winner, we love you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin is closing the year with the elaborate and artistic Traditionnelle Tourbillon Qilin, a limited edition of its flagship 14-day tourbillon. Engraved by hand on the case and dial, the watch gets its name from the mythical creatures on the dial. Prominent in East Asian mythology, the qilin is often depicted as a horse covered in scales, but with the head of a dragon. The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Qilin is graced by a pair of qilin, both sitting on golden clouds. Initial thoughts For a couple of years starting around a decade ago, watches with East Asian – or more specifically, Chinese – motifs proliferated rapidly as Chinese demand for watches grew rapidly. Even if the individual watches were finely executed, and many were, the sheer number of such watches made them less interesting as a whole. Now such watches are less common, which makes them more unusual, and interesting once again. The Qilin tourbillon is grand watch with intricate details (and a price to match). While the theme and style is doubtlessly catered for a specific taste, it does impress with its artisanal decoration and technical excellence. Vacheron Constantin’s metiers d’art watches are always executed impeccably, regardless of technique. Decorated with engraving and guilloche, Qilin tourbillon looks remarkably fine in its details in photos, and will certainly look better in the metal. Perhaps the only downside of the watch is its size, which is substantial for a watch intended t...
Time+Tide
In 2019, this was without a doubt one of the pieces I most enjoyed putting together. Not just because I love looking at photos of watches, but because the difference between a good photo and a bad photo is a gulf that isn’t often talked about, and has some of the most impact on how … ContinuedThe post LIST: Nick Kenyon’s favourite watch photos from 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Sometimes you just want to be festive without being “too much,” right? Well, Elizabeth Doerr has got just the six watches for your wearing pleasure this holiday season – all of which would look great and proportionate on every wrist regardless of gender. And all of which do not go overboard on the sparkle, yet do not fall short in radiant elegance.
Deployant
Hands-on detailed review of the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano - dual timezone with the aesthetic of the Tribute collection.
SJX Watches
Now an annual tradition for Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin – and also his bestseller by a wide margin – the googly-eyed and whimsical Wristmon watch has been dressed up for this year’s holiday season. A limited edition of just three watches, the Santa 2021 Special Edition incorporates Yuletide motifs into the design, which retains the signature regulator-style, “moving eye” display, but with a surprisingly complex modification of the construction made necessary by Santa’s spectacles. Initial thoughts Though Konstantin Chaykin’s technical achievements are many – including a watch that can tell time on Mars – his most famous creation is the Joker of 2017, which spawned the Wristmon collection. Simple but amusing, the Wristmon watches are impossible not to like. Mr Chaykin has introduced many variants of the Wristmon, but mostly in extremely small runs, allowing them to remain fairly uncommon. The Santa edition, for instance, is a limited edition of just three. But despite the small run, Mr Chaykin has thoroughly revamped the watch to accommodate the new face, which reflects his attention to even the smallest of details – a quality exemplified by the one-off Joker Selfie. The Santa face on the dial is actually wearing a pair of glasses – made up of a frame with two individual sapphire lenses – which called for modification to both the dial as well as time display module. Though it’s priced substantially higher than earlier versions of the Wr...
Revolution
The Sky-Dweller is one of Rolex’s most complicated watch, combining two of horology’s most famous innovations - the annual calendar and the GMT function. Yet it’s actually incredibly easy, fun and intuitive to use. In this article, we demystify it and show you how.
SJX Watches
The largest watch retailer in the Middle East, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons is celebrating its 70th anniversary this year. A family-owned business since its founding, Seddiqi is marking the occasion with several limited-edition watches, including the Bovet 19Thirty Dimier UAE Edition. Based on the 19Thirty Dimier, a time-only wristwatch with a long, seven-day power reserve, the UAE Edition is dressed in a striking combination of black and yellow, with its most distinctive feature being an unusual take on the “California” dial. Instead of the usual Roman and Arabic numeral combination, its dial combines Hindu and Arabic numerals, in a nod to the culture of the region. Initial thoughts Typically a classical-looking watch, the 19Thirty Dimier is very different in the UAE Edition. Recalling racing chronographs, the yellow and black livery is sporty, which works well with the simplified dial that removes some of the elements found on the standard version. The simpler dial design is appealing, although the white print on the base plate feels out of place against all that yellow; a consistent black-and-yellow theme throughout would have been a bit more pleasing. Despite the bright colours, the 19Thirty Dimier is an elegantly-proportioned watch, with a fairly large case but one under 10 mm high. And it is powered by an in-house movement, which like all of Bovet’s movements, is well executed and technically interesting. The cal. 15BM04 inside is simple in function – it has only t...
Time+Tide
Seiko dive watches are the stuff of legend. They have inspired everything from the creation of entire Instagram accounts to the cult followings of references that appeared on the silver screen. They might not be the collective dials that launched a thousand ships, but they’re pretty damn close. This global ardour for the water-resistant wonders … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Seiko bolster their legendary dive range with two PADI-certified winners appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
What’s the best way to celebrate the 40th anniversary of Hublot for the Australian arm of the brand? Through our national sport of cricket, of course. And that’s exactly what Hublot Australia have done, bringing together two Australian cricketing greats in Michael Clarke and Pat Cummins to mark the launch of the new Hublot Classic … ContinuedThe post Cricket legend Michael Clarke: Hublot is a game-changer “that is never scared to be different” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
To celebrate their 70th birthday, luxury watch retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons have released a limited-edition watch with Bovet. The distinctive black and yellow design of the resulting watch is certainly eye-catching. But what makes the Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons and Bovet 19Thirty Dimier U.A.E Limited Edition such an intriguing proposition? Well, to understand the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Bovet’s high-impact collab with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons is a wrist-bound serotonin hit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A noted collector of art, objects, and also timepieces – he famously once owned the world’s most complicated watch that is now lost – banker J.P. Morgan was a frequent client of Charles Frodsham, having no doubt inherited the inclination from his father, also a client of the English watchmaker. Once preeminent globally, particularly in the late decades of the 19th century when Morgan was active, Charles Frodsham is perhaps most famous for supplying top-of-the-line pocket watches to Morgan that he then gifted to friends and partners of his eponymous bank. Sometimes known as “Morgan caliper” watches, these watches were amongst the most expensive watches in the world at the time. Some two dozen of these presentation watches are known – and 11 have been sold publicly – with all being identical in combining a minute repeater with split-second chronograph and tourbillon. Perhaps the most important of these watches is the one that will soon go on the block at Sotheby’s in New York on December 15 at 10:00 am EST. The watch once owned by J.P. Morgan Jr., bearing the serial number “010’330” The ebauche was probably produced by Nicole Nielsen The tourbillon with a Nicole Nielsen Type 2 cage Being offered by the estate of Alexandra McCain Morgan, who’s perhaps better known as the older sister of the late Senator John McCain. The watch was originally purchased by J.P. Morgan Jr. in 1933 – the lot is accompanied by a copy of the original invoice. The watch on ...
SJX Watches
Announced as a prelude to the 90th anniversary of its iconic reversible wristwatch, the Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano is the final debut from Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) for 2020. Cleverly constructed to utilise the twin faces of the watch for two time zones, the Tribute Duoface was already launched earlier in the year in a similar guise, with a dark blue dial. Now it returns with a pleasing metallic-burgundy dial that’s once again equipped with a strap made by Argentinian polo-boot maker Casa Fagliano – in a 190-piece limited edition that’ll be available only at JLC boutiques. Initial thoughts Rendered in a glossy, metallic burgundy, the dial of the new Reverso is striking. It suits the colour of the pink-gold case well, while also giving a more vibrant look to a watch that is usually dressed in more sedate colours. The Tribute Duoface feels a little bit thick for an elegant watch, something that’s accented by the curve of the back, a feature devised to help it sit better on the wrist. Also at odds with the style of the watch is the strap. Robustly made of canvas with leather ends, the strap feels more suited to something far more sporty. Nonetheless the Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano is still an attractive watch. And it’s not only the look that appeals, but also the movement within. Although the cal. 854A/2 is several decades old – the original cal. 854 was unveiled in 1994 with the first-generation Reverso Duo – it remains simple, sensible, and smart in h...
Time+Tide
This week we go monochrome in the urban jungle, with the new Hublot Classic Fusion Concrete Jungle New York and an awesome pair of New Balance trainers just dropped on Hypebeast. The gritty edge of concrete is just as fresh as a splash of colour and Hublot’s avant-garde touch is very much present in the … ContinuedThe post #Kicktock: Hublot’s street-tough dial made from concrete meets its match with New Balance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When buying pre-owned watches online, there are two emotions that you feel after sending your money. The first is the heady excitement at the prospect of adding a new piece to your collection. The second is that queasy feeling in the pit of your stomach – a blend of terror and anxiety as you fear … ContinuedThe post Ever considered buying a watch on eBay? Here’s why it’s now 100% risk-free appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Episode 116 is a double-header full of insider perspectives and watch ephemera.
SJX Watches
Announced two months ago to mark 20 years of Paneristi, the Radiomir Venti “Paneristi” PAM02020 is an unexpectedly good-looking watch, albeit one that can’t help but remind you why it exists, again and again. Celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, Paneristi got the inspiration for its name from Ferraristi, the nickname given to Ferrari owners and fans. It the pioneering web forum dedicated to Panerai, which meant Paneristi was once the most important online community for the world’s hottest watch brand. Those days have long since passed, but the forum remains influential, and no doubt figures in Panerai’s plans in rejuvenating itself amongst collectors, which probably explains this watch. I outlined the background of the watch in the original announcement at its launch: “This is the sixth Paneristi edition. Six editions ago, Paneristi was arguably the most fanatical watch forum dedicated to the hottest brand in the world. The first Paneristi edition, the PAM 195 of 2003, sold out in an instant, and despite all of them having the owner’s name engraved on the back, sold for many multiples of the original retail price on the secondary market. But times have changed.” Beyond the history, the PAM 2020 is actually an enticing watch with several strongly appealing features – as well as one major drawback. Initial thoughts The verdict on the PAM 2020 is straightforward: it’s appealing, with well executed details and a particularly beautiful brown dial, ...
Quill & Pad
Phillips' year-end auction, Racing Pulse, took place on Saturday, December 12, 2020 in New York. Here Elizabeth Doerr highlights five epic timepieces from Richard Mille and Panerai owned and worn by Hollywood action star Sylvester Stallone, sometimes in famous films, and shares the (astronomical) prices some of these watches reached at the auction.
Quill & Pad
The Phillips Racing Pulse auction showcased something of a timeline of Panerai history, including the legendary Luminor Slytech Daylight owned by Sylvester Stallone, as well as Paul Newman's own Rolex Daytona and Steve McQueen's own Heuer Monaco from the filming of 'Le Mans.' Elizabeth Doerr shares 12 of the extremely entertaining highlights here and the prices that the watches sold for.
Quill & Pad
The Urwerk UR-220 is an evolution of the popular UR-210, featuring the now-iconic Urwerk satellite display for the hours and minutes. And it's one more tangential celebration of Einstein’s theory. “The Falcon Project” is the nickname for the first variation of the UR-220, which sees the return of some legacy details from other models and the addition of some small changes to the function and aesthetic of the watch overall. Joshua Munchow takes a closer look.
WatchAdvice
The Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”, a timepiece clouded in such mystery that its existence was all but forgotten, until recently. The story behind this timepiece goes back to 1970, where after the iconic El Primero movement was produced by Zenith, the manufacture also produced a prototype for a manual winding chronograph. This chronograph model was housed in a blackened steel case, which was quite rare during the ’70s. The manufacture produced only a handful of these concepts, with the watch never making it into full production. Soon after, the quartz crisis hit, which forced Zenith’s El Primero savior Charles Vermont to store all the plans and designs for mechanical watches including El Primero designs in a secret walled off attic in the manufacture. Just imagine though, if this beautiful all-black timepiece was never to be uncovered by the manufacture! Luckily this wasn’t the case, as in 2019 when Zenith began celebrating their 50th anniversary of the El Primero Chronograph caliber, the team at the manufacture decided to go through all the plans, designs, and parts that they found in the secret attic. Among the numerous items hidden away, was a box that contained the original prototype of this special black chronograph model. A model that hasn’t been seen by anyone since the early 1970s. The Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” project is a remake of the original 1970 model. Zenith, however, decided that instead of faithfully reproducing a replica of...
SJX Watches
An iconic auto-racing chronograph of the 1970s, the Monaco ref. 1133 was nicknamed the “Steve McQueen” after the actor wore one in the 1971 film Le Mans. And now one of the actual examples worn by McQueen in the film has just become the most expensive Heuer ever sold, achieving US$2.21m with fees at Phillips’ New York auction. There were several Monacos on hand for the production of Le Mans, with McQueen retaining two after filming wrapped. The record-setting watch in question is one of the two that McQueen gifted to Haig Alltounian, both the chief mechanic for the film as well as the actor’s personal mechanic. McQueen (left) and Haig Alltounian (far right) during the filming of Le Mans Mr Alltounian received the watch – engraved with “To Haig Le Mans 1970” on the back – just after filming for Le Mans concluded. Mr Alltounian himself consigned the watch to Phillips for its recent New York watch auction, making its provenance impeccable. The bidding opened at US$150,000, progressing steadily until the air thinned at the half-million dollar mark – which leads to the conclusion that the majority of bidders had a similar limit in mind. Then only three phone bidders were left. The three-way tussle ended with a US$1.8m hammer price – with London-based James Marks of Phillips winning the lot for his client. The result was US$2.2m inclusive of fees, an all-time record for any Heuer watch. It’s also a convenient feather in the cap for TAG Heuer, which is ...
Hodinkee
This auction hero might just be the steal of the sale.
Hodinkee
Newman's other Daytona didn't bring the fireworks of three years ago, but it still put on a show at "Racing Pulse."
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