Revolution
The Story of Early Roger Dubuis
The first-born creations of the renowned watchmaker for his eponymous brand perhaps best reflect his ideals in watch and movement designs.
Results for Monaco, McQueen, and Le Mans (1971)
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Revolution
Deployant
More Nikon Z7 talk: why it is a great camera system on ChilloutTGIF
We continue our explore our exploration of the Nikon Mirrorless Digital Z7 System this week with learnings and extended examples.
SJX Watches
Breguet Debuts the Intriguing, Ingenious Valentine’s Day Special
Breguet, as well as its sister brand Blancpain, has made it a habit to introduce a Valentine’s Day edition each year. They are typically variations of existing ladies’s watches that have been dressed up with extra mother of pearl or diamonds; they are rarely interesting mechanically. But for Valentine’s Day 2021, Breguet has the Reine de Naples Cœur 9825 up its sleeve, and it is a surprisingly interesting watch. Presented in the familiar egg-shaped Reine de Naples case, the Cœur edition (coeur is “heart” in French) is inspired by 18th century “expanding hands” pocket watches. Initial thoughts Breguet is capable of many impressive complications – demonstrated by watches like the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 – but they are rarely quirky. Though inspired by historical pocket watches, the Reine de Naples Cœur is clever and original. The repeated use of hearts throughout the design feels a bit affected – the five-minute markers are all tiny hearts – but the watch remains graceful, with a subtle complication that isn’t immediately apparent. Although no photos of the movement are available yet, the cal. 78A0 inside is almost certainly constructed and decorated to a high level, as all Breguet watches are. The fact that it’s limited to just 28 watches is a bit of a shame, especially considering the reasonable price tag of just over US$46,000. Expanding hands Pocket watches with “expanding hands” were invented sometime in the earl...
Revolution
Available In The Shop: The Limited Edition Audemars Piguet Royal Oak QEII Cup
The Royal Oak QEII Cup 2017 is an impressive and lightweight limited edition Royal Oak sure to become sought after in the future.
Quill & Pad
New Bulgari Gérald Genta Arena Bi-Retro Sport: Intertwined History, Great Design
After celebrating the fiftieth anniversary of Gérald Genta's eponymous company founded in 1969, Bulgari embarks on reinstating the niche brand within its own ranks, kicking off with a captivating, revamped version of the Gérald Genta Arena Bi-Retro Sport. Find out the fascinating history behind this formerly independent brand and the series of events leading to this decision right here.
Revolution
Milestone Military Chronographs
As service-issue chronographs continue to experience an inexorable growth in interest, we take a look at the origins and unusual specs of some of the finest, most important pilot’s chronographs in military history.
Time+Tide
Dive Watch Fundamentals – How Blancpain gave birth to the modern dive watch
Many, many people out there view the ubiquitous Rolex Submariner as the forefather of all amphibious timepieces. And they’re dead wrong. In fact, the first truly fit-for-purpose dive watch was made by one of the oldest Swiss watchmakers in the game – Blancpain. The story of the world’s first dive watch is an interesting one, … ContinuedThe post Dive Watch Fundamentals – How Blancpain gave birth to the modern dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano: A Tantalizing Two-Time Zone Teaser Of What’s To Come
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano combines the best with the best from 90 years' worth of Reverso variations, offering a pure, classic style that makes this watch both a statement and an understatement, the two faces doubling the impact. And as Martin Green explains, it's just a teaser of what's to come is 2021 as Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates the 90th anniversary of the iconic model.
Time+Tide
5 vintage finds you can pick up on eBay right now
If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide, you’re likely to sit somewhere on the scale of watch addiction. From unrelenting curiosity to full-blown collecting mania, you should know that you aren’t alone in your unquenchable thirst for that next addition to the collection. And what better way to start the year than by getting a … ContinuedThe post 5 vintage finds you can pick up on eBay right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Ebel ‘Sonny Crockett’ -an El Primero Chrono That Could Become Your Vice
Ross Povey looks at a Zenith El Primero-driven chrono from the 1980s and ’90s that won’t break your bank. So, comb your mullet through, pop on your espadrilles and let’s hit Miami and check out the Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph 1911…
Revolution
Available In The Shop: Two Limited Editions Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore
The two limited edition Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore step away from the classic materials used in the collection and are bound to become future collectibles.
Quill & Pad
Book Review: ‘Stalin’s Wine Cellar’ By John Baker
Whether 'Stalin’s Wine Cellar' is a journey about chasing fakes, or if these bottles hidden away in the former Soviet Union are genuine, the story makes for a rollicking saga. And if the bottles are genuine, who really did own them and what on earth might they be worth? The tale takes us on twist after twist and has been described as “Raiders of the Lost Ark for wine lovers.” Ken Gargett couldn't put the book down.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Ref. 6301P-001
Patek Philippe closed 2020 in a big way with the launch of the Grande Sonnerie ref. 6301P-001 in November. The most complicated wristwatch unveiled by the Geneva watchmaker in recent years, the Grande Sonnerie is a grande and petite sonnerie carillon. With last year’s Geneva watch fair cancelled, the brand unveiled its new releases one by one throughout the year, starting with the limited-edition Calatrava ref. 6007A in June, allowing each new model to be in stores as soon as it was announced. The Grande Sonnerie ref. 6301P-001 was no different, albeit on a tiny scale, with reputedly only a handful available in each region – all sold before the launch. Initial thoughts An impressively large watch, the ref. 6301P feels like a modern-day grand complication. The size is a consequence of the wide and complex movement, so the watch has good proportions all things considered. But the styling is classical, incorporating many elements from vintage Patek Philippe watches – and also the ref. 5370P split-seconds chronograph – which gives it an elegant appearance, something helped by the relative thinness of the case. Still, it is clearly a contemporary watch – Patek Philippe rarely does exact remakes of vintage watches – with details that mark it out as such, including the recessed case band and the luminous hands. The fact that the watch is contemporary is evident in the movement, which looks and functions like a modern calibre, reflecting Patek Philippe’s measured,...
SJX Watches
Ressence Unveils the Last in the 10th Anniversary “X” Series Tetralogy
Though just 10 years old, Belgian watchmaker Ressence has already made its mark with its sleek, inventive designs centred on a planetary time display – which is fun and surprisingly legible – and an ingenious, oil-filled case. To mark its 10th anniversary, the brand rolled out a quartet of limited-edition “X” series watches, which has just reached its conclusion with the launch of the final instalment, the Type 1 Squared X. The Type 1 Squared X Each of the anniversary watches was based on a standard model, but gently and cleverly tweaked to distinguish them. A recurring theme throughout the quartet is green dial, albeit in different shades, and more notably, quirky technical modifications. So the new Type 1 Squared X is clad in metallic, olive green while having a novel day and night indicator that relies on coloured ceramic ball. The X series (from the top): Type 1 Squared X, Type 5X, Type 3X, and Type 1 Slim X Initial thoughts Ressence watches are appealing in a quirky way. Though entirely mechanical, they evoke the liquid-crystal displays of smart watches. Many of the brand’s watches are modern, looking cool but somewhat cold in their black or grey metallic colours. The Type 1 Squared X, however, lightens its tone with the green dial. And it is made all the more intriguing with its day and night indicator developed with the neuroscientist at Harvard, a string of colourful ceramic ball that Ressence dubs the “Time by Colour” system. Nevertheless, the Type ...
Deployant
Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down – quirky yet supremely innovative: a close look review.
We take a close look at the Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down watch, in platinum with a blue dial. We explain how it works and why the quirkiness is attractive.
Time+Tide
Celebrating Seiko’s NH35 movement – the unsung hero used by top microbrands in everything from indestructible divers to vintage stunners
Is Seiko’s NH35 movement ubiquitous due to its brilliance or sheer availability? This hand-wound, hacking movement is today widely used on the microbrand scene and is basically the unbranded version of Seiko’s 4R35 movement that’s universally admired for its toughness and accuracy. Similarly reliable and robust, the NH35 is a strong mechanical heart fitted to … ContinuedThe post Celebrating Seiko’s NH35 movement – the unsung hero used by top microbrands in everything from indestructible divers to vintage stunners appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
90 Years Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
Celebrating an anniversary like 90 years is a must when you’re a wristwatch as old and as evergreen as the Reverso. In honor of the long and successful career of the horological icon, let’s take a brief look back over the last nine decades of this truly authentic timepiece, an Art Deco original in the world of watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Could your PlayStation 5 controller screw up your watch by emitting magnetic fields?
Magnets are useful for many things. They’ve helped decorate the outside of countless fridges, inspired the name of a seminal New York rap group (the Ultramagnetic MCs), and given Wile E Coyote various half-baked ideas in his doomed attempt to catch Road Runner. But magnets are less benign when it comes to your mechanical watch. … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Could your PlayStation 5 controller screw up your watch by emitting magnetic fields? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Oscillating Pinion: The Unsung Chronograph Coupling Solution
While the oscillating pinion has somewhat of a bad rap for being an economical, if not crude coupling system in chronograph mechanisms, it was the chosen method of engagement in two of the most interesting (high-end) chronograph watches in recent times. We take a look at the history of its use, the pros and cons of its construction and its application in modern watchmaking.
Time+Tide
Our sexiest watch shots of 2020 plus five tips to take better watch pics yourself
OK, honesty time: I’m a self-confessed dial obsessive. Don’t get me wrong, the hypnotic ballet of a tourbillon still tugs my heartstrings so much it hurts. But have that poking out of a masterful dial and I’m ready to sell my BMW. The dial is the face, the first impression and, for me, the absolute … ContinuedThe post Our sexiest watch shots of 2020 plus five tips to take better watch pics yourself appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Urwerk Vs. MB&F;: How Do They Square Up? – Reprise
Urwerk and MB&F; are two stalwarts of contemporary watchmaking with, superficially at least, much in common. Here Ian Skellern shares what he thinks are the significant similarities and differences between these two leaders in modern independent watchmaking.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Moser’s new green dial combines impossible beauty with heart-warming altruism. What’s not to like?
H. Moser & Cie. is a watch brand and manufacturer known for having fun and exploring a wide spectrum of colours and materials to fabricate their creations. But now they are taking a moment to get serious through a gorgeous green duo of timepieces. The new H. Moser & Cie. Cure ALS Pioneer Collection is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Moser’s new green dial combines impossible beauty with heart-warming altruism. What’s not to like? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Bovet Château de Môtiers: A Haute Horlogerie Workshop Fit For A King
Nestled in among the mountainous green forest overlooking the valley’s larger towns of Fleurier and Môtiers is one of the area’s historical attractions: a stone castle whose earliest sections were built in the early fourteenth century. Since its purchase in 2006, the Château de Môtiers has been fully renovated by Bovet owner Pascal Raffy and now serves as the brand's headquarters and assembly workshop.
Time+Tide
Rubber fetish: 5 of the best sports watches on rubber straps from monochrome to lemon fresh
While I deeply enjoyed writing the story about unlikely grail watches on rubber straps, let’s be honest. Most of them are far out of reach for most mortals even with a serious budget, given the watches’ limited supply. So here is a look at some more accessible examples that are tough, fresh and, most importantly, … ContinuedThe post Rubber fetish: 5 of the best sports watches on rubber straps from monochrome to lemon fresh appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Vianney Halter Returns with the Deep Space Resonance
After a seven-year hiatus since the launch of his last watch, Vianney Halter is back with the Deep Space Resonance. Unveiled in prototype form but slated for delivery in summer 2021, the Deep Space Resonance is an impressively complex watch – the tourbillon assembly alone is 371 parts – that builds on the Deep Space Tourbillon of 2013. Like its predecessor, the new watch is also a triple-axis tourbillon, but now equipped with a pair of hairsprings and balance wheels within the tourbillon – both of which beat in acoustic resonance according to Mr Halter. Initial thoughts The Deep Space Resonance is a unique complication, to a degree. It’s a first in combining a triple-axis tourbillon with double balance wheels beating in acoustic, rather than mechanical, resonance. And the incorporation of the acoustic resonance phenomenon is also a first in watchmaking as far as I know, though it is somewhat fuzzy in terms of how it enhances the functioning of the watch. The tourbillon and its driving wheels The closest anyone else has come to this is Beat Haldimann with his H2 that has a flying tourbillon rotating on a single plane but with twin, mechanically-resonating balance wheels. Still, arriving as it is in 2021, the Deep Space Resonance feels overdue. The best known mechanical-resonance wristwatches came long before: the Haldimann H2 made its debut in 2005, while the better-known F.P Journe Resonance in 2000. And the Philippe Dufour Duality, which relies on twin balance w...
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Final Remake of the Original, 1969 El Primero Trio
After having brought back the A384 and A386 for the 50th anniversary of the El Primero in 2019, Zenith has finally remade the last of the three original, 1969 El Primero chronographs. Like the earlier two re-editions, the Chronomaster Revival A385 is faithful to the original, retaining both the proportions of the case and dial – while also boasting a historically-correct movement, an accomplishment exclusive to Zenith since its never stopped making the calibre. As it was with the vintage originals, the A385 remake has the same the tonneau-shaped case found on the A384, but stands out with its smoked dial finish, a defining feature of the original, which also has a cool backstory. In 1970, an original A385 was fastened to the landing gear of a Boeing 707 operated by Air France on a flight from Paris to New York – and the watch kept perfect time on landing. A vintage brochure showing the original El Primero trio that made their debut in 1969 Initial thoughts Being a spot-on reissue means the A385 is unimaginative, but that precisely what makes it appealing. In fact, it’s difficult to not like the watch, which retains all of the qualities of the original – from design to landmark movement – while being reasonably priced, as Zenith watches most often are. And the icing on the cake is the dial finish, a warm tone sets it apart from the many El Primero re-editions, most of which are dressed in plainer colours. The smoked, coffee-colour dial also evokes the faded, “t...
Quill & Pad
42 Favorite Facts For 2020
At the end of 2020, 'The New York Times' published a story entitled “74 of Our Favorite Facts for 2020,” which contained 74 of the most interesting, striking, or delightful facts that the editors found in articles published by the newspaper last year. Elizabeth Doerr was inspired and now shares 42 interesting facts from Quill & Pad stories in 2020. Enjoy!
Revolution
Available In The Shop: The Tudor Black Bay Bronze “Bucherer” Edition
The so-called Blue Editions by retailer Bucherer are some of the most sought-after items in the watch market, and the Tudor Black Bay Bucherer Edition is no exception.
Time+Tide
You’re not the only one whose grail watch is on a rubber strap. Here are 5 of the most desirable
The term “grail watch” is used to refer to the ultimate collection piece. It might be a rare vintage treasure or a modern horological marvel depending on your personal taste. Effectively though it represents the Mount Everest of your watch-buying ambitions and is likely to be financially ruinous. Grail watches traditionally therefore conjure up images … ContinuedThe post You’re not the only one whose grail watch is on a rubber strap. Here are 5 of the most desirable appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
What super-collector Roni Madhvani thinks about the steel sports watch craze
Roni Madhvani is one of the biggest vintage watch aficionados on the planet. His Instagram page – @roni_m_29 – is the stuff of legend and showcases his treasure trove of some of the rarest and most eccentric timepieces from the likes of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Cartier. Conspicuously, however, it’s one of the few … ContinuedThe post What super-collector Roni Madhvani thinks about the steel sports watch craze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.