Hodinkee
Introducing: Tudor Updates The Black Bay 58
The crowd-favorite gets a few tidy updates, including a slimmer case.
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: Grand Seiko Introduces the SBGY043 “Iwao Blue”
At Watches & Wonders 2026, Grand Seiko’s newest addition to the Elegance Collection brings together the things it does best. Namely, intricately textured dials with a nod to Japanese artistry, and its flagship Caliber 9R Spring Drive. Engraved to resemble a weathered rock face, the SBGY043’s striking dial suggests the appearance of a mountain at dusk: Grand Seiko calls this pattern iwao, which translates to rock or crag. Depending on the angle it’s viewed from behind its domed sapphire crystal, different facets take on intermingling light and dark tones of blue, purple, and black. Its color is inspired by the tradition of katsuiro dyeing, a centuries-old technique and reportedly a favorite among the samurai class, which produces a deep indigo hue. Set against bright silver markers and hands - no blued seconds hand here, which is almost its own Grand Seiko tradition - it makes for an especially understated contrast. This Iwao Blue version runs on the Caliber 9R31, a manual-wind Spring Drive movement with a 72-hour power reserve and visible through a clear caseback. The case is among the slimmest in the Elegance Collection, with standard zaratsu polishing and soft, rounded lugs. A nine-row stainless steel bracelet is the only option, which reflects the craggy-faced dial’s aura of ruggedness. Grand Seiko enthusiasts, of which there are many, might remember this dial from 2021 - albeit in a sharp-angled Heritage case and with a Caliber 9R65 Spring Drive mov...
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: Hermes Doubles Down on the H08 with the Addition of a Skeletonized “Squelette” Version
I vividly remember when Hermes first launched the H08 five years ago. It marked yet another moment of the brand solidifying its place beyond its roots in fashion and firmly into the horological landscape. Prior to the H08, we had seen more classic, refined, and dare I say quintessentially Hermes collections from the Maison like the Kelly, inspired by the padlock from the famous handbag; the Arceau, drawing from the iconic horse motif; and the Cape Cod, a traditional rectangular design. In 2012, Hermes had a defining moment for its watches with the debut of its first in-house caliber. Still, the H08 marked a new moment of the brand doing something markedly different – decidedly modern and yet distinctly Hermes. In the years since its initial introduction, the H08 has continued to be a success and as such, the Maison has doubled down on the collection, following up with a slew of iterations on the original H08 lineup, which was pretty impressive in its own right, consisting of five variations. We have seen the addition of complications like a chronograph, new sizes ranging from the original 39mm up to 45mm, as well as new styles and colors. Today, at this year’s Watches and Wonders, Hermes offers up the next evolution with the H08 Squelette, the Maison’s interpretation of a skeletonized model. We have seen this openworked style in the brand’s other staple collections, like the Arceau and the Slim d’Hermes, so this seems like a natural next step for the H08 line....
Fratello
Tudor Launches The Royal In Three New Sizes With An Updated Design And Upgraded Calibers
For 2026, Tudor has updated its extensive Royal lineup with new sizes, refreshed dial designs, and manufacture movements. The upgrade in calibers, in particular, is an anticipated and welcome step forward. But the aesthetic updates are also quite nice, giving some of the models a retro touch. Let’s take a closer look at the revitalized […] Visit Tudor Launches The Royal In Three New Sizes With An Updated Design And Upgraded Calibers to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look - The New Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition
Armin Strom is an undisputed champion of watchmaking in consistently exploring the physics of resonance. Since the debut of its Mirrored Force Resonance in 2016, the brand has developed a recognisable mechanical signature based on dual oscillators linked by a clutch spring. The new Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition revisits one of its most […]
Time+Tide
IWC’s new Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive is the brand’s first space watch
The IWC Pilot's Venturer Vertical Drive is the storied brand's first-ever watch designed, engineered, and certified for human spaceflight.The post IWC’s new Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive is the brand’s first space watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: Oris Reintroduces the Star, a True 1960s Throwback
One of the most interesting things to observe in recent years among brands that have been around for decades is how they handle reissuing vintage watches from their back catalog. Often, we see releases that seem to have been conceived in a boardroom by bean counters, with a lot of concessions to the original design made for modern consumers. This usually means making watches larger than they need to be, and using newer, higher performance materials when the old fashioned ones would have been just fine. So it’s a real treat when a brand releases a “new” old watch that is about as close to the original as possible. That’s the vibe we’re getting from the new Oris Star Edition, a mostly faithful interpretation of one of the more important watches in the brand’s history, dating back to the 1960s. The original Star was the brand’s first watch with an in-house lever escapement, something that was only possible thanks to the overturning of the Swiss Watch Statute, a law originally introduced in the 1930s to counter anti competition measures taken by watch manufacturers during the years of the Great Depression. An unintended consequence of the statute was that it limited brands like Oris to using pin-lever escapements. The law was eventually repealed with the help of Rolf Portman, a lawyer employed by Oris and tasked with fighting the statute. Portman is now Oris’ Honorary Chairman. Here we have a watch that is uncommonly true to the character of its vintage ins...
Monochrome
Introducing - Revival of a Classic with the Oris Star Edition
Oris rose to become one of Switzerland’s top ten watchmakers by the end of the 1960s, fuelled by automatic models like the Star and its early dive watches. Introduced in 1966 and inspired by the modernist spirit of the era, the Oris Star featured a tonneau-shaped case with seamlessly integrated lugs and was powered by […]
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar Returns with a New Case Size and Caliber
A. Lange & Söhne had one of my, and many others’, favorite releases at Watches & Wonders 2025. It wasn’t a super complication and had no bells-and-whistles. Rather, it was simple and small. The 34mm 1815 three-handers in white or rose gold exemplified confident, understated luxury like no other watches at the fair. For 2026, Lange has brought back a watch that had been out of production with a new movement and in a new, smaller size, following suit from last year’s release. Unlike the 1815s, these feature one of the less common complications in the Lange catalog: the annual calendar. The Saxonia Annual Calendar was a very cool watch. It combined its eponymous complication with Lange’s signature outsized date and was powered by a since-retired “Sax-0-Mat” three-quarter-rotor automatic movement. These funky movements were featured in the Langematik watches and represented Lange’s first foray into automatic calibers. In addition to a distinctive look, they featured a hidden complication: zero-reset seconds, meaning that when the crown was pulled out, the seconds hand would jump to zero. In 2011, the Sax-O-Mats began to be replaced by central rotor calibers with up to 72 hours of power reserve, an increase from 46 hours, but the zero-reset seconds disappeared. Though comprising many different calibers, most of Lange’s currently in-production automatics have a central rotor. I am unsure when the previous generation of the Saxonia Annual Calendar went out of pro...
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces the Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux Steel in Mineral Blue
Last year, Parmigiani Fleurier had one of the strongest showings of any brand at Watches & Wonders, led by a pair of absolutely gorgeous, traditionally styled perpetual calendars. This is a brand that for me has been somewhat hard to get into, personally. While the quality of the watches themselves is never in question, I don’t always identify with the design choices, and think occasionally they lean a little too subtle for their own good. That’s why last year’s Toric Quantieme Perpetual was such a surprise. It’s not the kind of watch that usually lands in my wheelhouse, but I found that it was executed so perfectly that I just couldn’t ignore it. This year’s big novelty for Parmigiani at Watches & Wonders takes an entirely different approach, but follows a pair of recent creations that have been much admired flagships for this current generation of the brand. The Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux follows the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante and the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante with a new complication that is hidden until called upon by the wearer, and in doing so have created a chronograph that is impossibly minimalist at first blush, with no obvious indications that it is, in fact, a chronograph. That, of course, may or may not be appealing to you if you’re a chronograph fan. Part of the appeal of these watches for many is in how a chronograph naturally segments the dial and presents a variety of hopefully useful information in a cluster. The Chronograph Mystéri...
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: Moser and Reebok Have Brought the Pump to the Streamliner
This one is for elder millennials and Gen-X only. In perhaps the most surprising collaboration we’ve seen in a while, H. Moser has partnered with Reebok to bring us the Streamliner Pump, a limited edition of 500 pieces total across two variants, that combines the familiar, Art Deco inspired shape of Moser’s integrated bracelet sports watch with one of the most iconic sneaker designs of my childhood. For the non-sneakerheads or readers who are simply too young to remember, the Pump was a Reebok sneaker that became a cultural phenomenon in the early 1990s. The gimmick was that with the “pump” of a large orange button on the top of the shoe’s tongue, the wearer could inflate and regulate a fitting cushion in the lower part of the tongue to obtain a better and more secure fit. It was an answer of sorts to Nike’s “Air” technology, but more tactile and focused on the user experience. It was also tailor made for splashy marketing campaigns with big celebrity endorsements (Dee Brown and Shaquille O’Neal are the NBA stars that immediately come to mind as Pump wearers), and I can vividly remember desperately wanting Pumps of my own at an age where I honestly thought I for sure would have a career in professional basketball. Moser has captured at least some of that nostalgia with this new release. For the Streamliner Pump, Moser has added an anodized aluminum pusher to the case at the 8:00 position, the “pump” as it were. Press it, and the pusher transmits ene...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 Ombré Lacquer Green Dial (Ref. 126334)
Rolex introduces a special Datejust 41 with a green lacquer ombré dial to mark 100 years of the Oyster case.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 In Jubilee Gold - A Brand New Precious Alloy (Ref. 228235)
The new Day-Date utilizes 'Jubilee Gold' on the case, bezel, and President bracelet, using a more subtle 18-karat gold alloy for the first time, developed and produced in-house by Rolex.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Cartier Santos-Dumont Brings An Elegant Metal Bracelet And Obsidian Stone Dial To The Collection
A new black obsidian dial and 15-link bracelet upscale the LM size model, available in yellow gold and platinum.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Cartier Roadster Returns
The streamlined, curvy, automotive-inspired model is back after a 14 year hiatus. Here's what's new.
Monochrome
First Look - Zenith’s High-Beat Heart Exposed on the New Chronomaster Sport Skeleton
When Zenith unveiled the Chronomaster Sport in 2021, the message was clear: the El Primero was entering a new, sportier chapter rather than living off 1969 nostalgia. Exploiting the full potential of the calibre 3600’s 5Hz frequency, the 1/10th-of-a-second readings put the Chronomaster Sport luxury sports watch in a class of its own. The latest […]
Monochrome
First Look - The TAG Heuer Monaco Steve McQueen Finally Goes In-House
For about a decade, the classic blue dial TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11, also known as the “Steve McQueen” edition, has been one of the most recognisable chronographs. The square case, the vivid blue dial, the left-hand crown and the bi-compax layout are burned into our collective memory. Yet, while the Monaco series was used […]
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: Tudor Surprises with the Oddly Appealing Monarch
Tudor is at its best when they surprise. Sure, there have been some controversial pieces over the years, like the North Flag and P01 (though I’d argue they were both very successful as attention grabbers), but watches like the BB54, BB58 925, and even FXD took us off guard when they first dropped. This year, Tudor has followed suit with the Monarch, a watch that took us off guard in the press release but impressed in person. Before getting to the watch, it was made clear to us that although this year marks 100 years of the brand, they aren’t throwing a big celebration for themselves, nor did they release a watch specifically dedicated to the centennial anniversary. The Monarch, which is a spiritual recreation or tribute to an early 20th-century Tudor model, is meant to acknowledge said birthday. So, basically, don’t call it an anniversary watch, just an anniversary-like watch. Ok, with that out of the way, let’s take a look at this surprisingly cool new model. Measuring 39mm in diameter, 11.9mm thick, and, I’m estimating, as this dimension was not provided, in the neighborhood of 48mm lug-to-lug, so basically BB58 sized, the Monarch, despite some vintage cues, looked and felt pleasantly modern on the wrist. The case, made of stainless steel, was quite different from others in the Tudor lineup. It had hooded, aggressively chamfered lugs, with a sharply faceted drop-off. There were also flat segments on either side of the case, emphasizing a geometric overall shape...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Patek Philippe's New 'Celestial Sunrise and Sunset' The 6105G - The Brand's First Wristwatch With That Complication
It's an aggressively modern approach with a new take on one of the brand's most romantic complications.
Monochrome
First Look - IWC Takes To Space, With The New Pilot’s Watch Venturer Verticle Drive (Incl. Video)
It goes without saying that IWC’s pilot watch-making legacy is second to none. The company has been making dedicated flight instruments for almost a century, and as such, it remains at the core of the brand. The Big Pilot is the proverbial poster boy, but the entire Pilot’s Watch collection is full of incredibly cool […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Oris Artelier Complication, A Dress Watch Redesigned For A New Generation
The minimalist, decluttered redesign is the brainchild of the brand's 24-year-old Product Design Engineer.
Monochrome
First Look - Design Meets Horology, with the New Hermès H08 Skeleton (incl. Video)
When Hermès introduced the H08 back in 2021, it was met with rave reviews for its playful flair. The shapes, the colours, the materials… it all worked together perfectly. The French luxury goods house is known for its sophisticated eye for design, and it showed with the H08. It was refreshing and intriguing, thanks to […]
Monochrome
First Look - The New Ulysse Nardin Super Freak, Quite Possibly the Most Complex Time-Only Watch Ever
Some watches follow the established path of horology, refining proportions, improving calibres, and adjusting aesthetics within well-defined and safe boundaries. And then some watches question nearly everything that is considered conventional and classic. When the Ulysse Nardin Freak was unveiled in 2001, it introduced a new design, a new movement, but it also proposed an […]
Monochrome
First Look - The Superb Chopard L.U.C 1860 Chronometer, now in Blue
Chopard marks the 30th anniversary of its first in-house movement produced in the brand’s Fleurier Manufacture. A pivotal moment for Chopard, the calibre 1.96 was released in 1996 and is still regarded as one of the finest ultra-thin micro-rotor movements today. The first watch to feature the calibre was the L.U.C 1860, presented in a […]
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 54 Blue
Tudor continues to expand their Black Bay 54 collection at this year’s Watches & Wonders with the Black Bay 54 “Blue”. Since the launch of the original Black Bay 54, the diver has settled into a role as a favorite among enthusiasts for its slender, compact proportions. The original release was a straightforward black dialed, black bezel affair, and last summer saw the surprise launch of the “Lagoon Blue” reference that re-characterized the watch as a fun, more jewelry oriented diver than we would have expected. A diver with a blue dial and bezel is frankly something expected in a dive watch lineup these days, so this release is not so much a surprise, but it’s interesting to see how Tudor executes on a dive watch standard. In terms of specs, there are no big surprises here, and this edition of the 54 follows those that have come before. The case in stainless steel measures 37mm in diameter and has water resistance to 200 meters. It runs on the same MT5400 movement, which is COSC-certified and has a silicon balance spring and 70-hour power reserve. It’s available on both a rivet style three link bracelet or a rubber strap. The blue dial is very, very blue. Tudor refers to it as “sapphire blue” and in the bright lights of their booth at Palexpo the sunray finishing and almost purple-ish hues are quite prominent on the dial. It’s very saturated, and I think even in less intense lighting it will have a lot of presence. If you compare it to other blue wa...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Marks 50th Years of The Nautilus with Two Hands and a Pocket Watch
Patek Philippe celebrates the semicentennial of its coveted sports watch with the 50th Anniversary Nautilus Collection, a trio of two hand precious metal watches in white gold and platinum – and an unexpected pocket watch desk clock. The deletion of the seconds hand is a return to the line’s aesthetic roots, also demonstrated by a new 38 mm case size, very close to that of the original. But, it remains on the precious metal path Patek Philippe began in 2021 when it axed the steel ref. 5711. Initial Thoughts These anniversary editions are the truest to the original Nautilus that we’ve seen in recent memory. The sans seconds ref. 3700/1A, launched in 1976, was powered by the JLC 920-based cal. 28-355C, which the calibre 240 was meant to replace. While Audemars Piguet stuck to the two hands plug date format with the Royal Oak Jumbo, Patek Philippe migrated the Nautilus to its new sweep-seconds platform. I believe something was lost when Patek Philippe added a sweep seconds hand to the Nautilus, though understandable from a business perspective given that watches with seconds hands generally have broader appeal than those without. That is recovered here, and the deletion of the calendar sets it apart from the original enough to not be a “reissue”. A smaller 38 mm Nautilus, with better proportions than the existing Ladies models, in also appreciated. The 38 mm platinum ref. 5610/1P-001. It is a shame then that the return of a two hand Nautilus is to be a fleeting one,...
Fratello
Tudor Introduces The New Monarch To Celebrate The Brand’s 100th Anniversary
The big surprise introduction to celebrate Tudor’s 100th anniversary is the new Monarch. This new watch celebrates the brand’s century of technical progress. Having said that, the Monarch name is far from new. In the 1990s, Tudor introduced the first series of Monarch models, which proved popular in Asia. Today’s release is not a simple […] Visit Tudor Introduces The New Monarch To Celebrate The Brand’s 100th Anniversary to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Tudor Royal Gets New Colors and In-House Movements for 2026
An overhaul update for the classic collection. More
SJX Watches
Rolex Celebrates the Oyster
This year marks the 100th anniversary of the Rolex Oyster, the first waterproof watch produced by the brand. Rolex just announced two new Oyster Perpetual models to mark the occasion. One is a sombre 41 mm Rolesor Anniversary model (Ref. 134303) which blends gold with steel and the other is a playful 36 mm Jubilee Dial (Ref. 126000) which focuses on colour and patterns. Initial thoughts Celebrating 100 years of the landmark Oyster case is certainly important to Rolex, as that original invention has been defining the brand ever since. Choosing arguably the plainest model line to mark the occasion is both meaningful and inspired. The entry-level Oyster Perpetual line manages to still bridge the gap between what Rolex has become and what the brand was 100 years ago. This back-to-basics approach gave birth to interesting models, which couldn’t be more different. The restrained 41 mm anniversary Oyster Perpetual is dressed in 904L Oystersteel paired with a yellow gold bezel and crown. Complemented by the gold accents on the dial and hands, the final look is very reminiscent of some configurations of the beloved “Bubbleback” Oyster era. At the opposite end of the spectrum, the new 36 mm Jubilee loses all celebratory sobriety and instead relies on a colourful reinterpretation of the Jubilee monogram dial introduced back in the 1970s. The blocky letters printed in vivid colours make for a look that is split between vintage inspired and excessively modern. This Oyster...
SJX Watches
Rolex Celebrates the Oyster with Anniversary Models
This year marks the 100th anniversary of the Rolex Oyster, the first waterproof watch produced by the brand. Rolex just announced two new Oyster Perpetual models to mark the occasion: the Oyster Perpetual 41 mm Rolesor Anniversary (ref. 134303) in an unusual blend of gold and steel, and the playful Oyster Perpetual “Jubilee Dial” that’s all about colour and patterns with a dial reminiscent of the works of Alighiero Boetti (and is available in 41 mm, 36 mm, and 36 mm variants). Initial thoughts Celebrating 100 years of the landmark Oyster case is certainly important to Rolex, as that original invention has been defining the brand ever since. Choosing arguably the plainest model line to mark the occasion is both meaningful and inspired. The entry-level Oyster Perpetual line manages to still bridge the gap between what Rolex has become and what the brand was 100 years ago. This back-to-basics approach gave birth to interesting models, which couldn’t be more different. The restrained 41 mm anniversary Oyster Perpetual is dressed in 904L Oystersteel paired with a yellow gold bezel and crown. Complemented by the gold accents on the dial and hands, the final look is very reminiscent of some configurations of the beloved “Bubbleback” Oyster era. At the opposite end of the spectrum, the new 36 mm Jubilee loses all celebratory sobriety and instead relies on a colourful reinterpretation of the Jubilee monogram dial introduced back in the 1970s. The blocky letters pri...