Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Hollywood Prop Master Maria Simonelli Tells Us Why It's The Watch That Truly Makes The Character
Episode 116 is a double-header full of insider perspectives and watch ephemera.
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Hodinkee
Episode 116 is a double-header full of insider perspectives and watch ephemera.
SJX Watches
Announced two months ago to mark 20 years of Paneristi, the Radiomir Venti “Paneristi” PAM02020 is an unexpectedly good-looking watch, albeit one that can’t help but remind you why it exists, again and again. Celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, Paneristi got the inspiration for its name from Ferraristi, the nickname given to Ferrari owners and fans. It the pioneering web forum dedicated to Panerai, which meant Paneristi was once the most important online community for the world’s hottest watch brand. Those days have long since passed, but the forum remains influential, and no doubt figures in Panerai’s plans in rejuvenating itself amongst collectors, which probably explains this watch. I outlined the background of the watch in the original announcement at its launch: “This is the sixth Paneristi edition. Six editions ago, Paneristi was arguably the most fanatical watch forum dedicated to the hottest brand in the world. The first Paneristi edition, the PAM 195 of 2003, sold out in an instant, and despite all of them having the owner’s name engraved on the back, sold for many multiples of the original retail price on the secondary market. But times have changed.” Beyond the history, the PAM 2020 is actually an enticing watch with several strongly appealing features – as well as one major drawback. Initial thoughts The verdict on the PAM 2020 is straightforward: it’s appealing, with well executed details and a particularly beautiful brown dial, ...
Deployant
We bring you the full details and our honest thoughts on the new and stunning Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding in full pink gold.
Hodinkee
Our founder calls out eight lots that raised a few eyebrows – and presents both sides of the argument.
Hodinkee
Inside the 1861, and how a watchmaker keeps it running.
Deployant
We look at the best dressy gold watches this year to pick of best 6. A list of F. Berthoud, Greubel Forsey, Hermes, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin.
Time+Tide
When it comes to watches, we too often think of the Swiss – with the German and Japanese manufacturers no longer trailing far behind. But watchmaking is truly a global enterprise. In Russia, many collectors will immediately think of Konstantin Chaykin’s maverick creations. But there is also a larger manufacturer, with a surprising amount of … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The New York Times pulls back the iron curtain on Raketa appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The gift-giving season has arrived, with Christmas and other holidays just around the corner. Odds are if you’re reading this article (or any content on Time+Tide for that matter) that you, or someone you know, have a sweet spot for watch-related goodies. Fortunately, you don’t have to wait till the last minute or spend a … ContinuedThe post Holiday horology: 5 Christmas accessories to give any watch lover (or just buy for yourself) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The most expensive wristwatch ever sold when it achieved US$17.52m at Phillips, the Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytona once owned by the actor was a high watermark in vintage Rolex collecting when it sold in 2017. And now Phillips has sold another vintage Daytona owned by the late actor – a ref. 6263 “Big Red” – for US$5.48m including fees. Gifted by Newman to his daughter Clea in 2008, the ref. 6263 was originally given to Newman by his wife, engraved with a dedication on the back, just like the Daytona sold in 2017. Though selling for less than the 2017 example, the ref. 6263 becomes the third most valuable Rolex sold at auction, after the first Paul Newman Daytona and the ref. 6062 “Bao Dai” once owned by the last Emperor of Vietnam. Paul Newman pictured with the ref. 6263 in the 1980s The bidding for the Daytona opened at a little under US$1.00m, but dramatically jumped to US$2.00m with a bid by Paul Boutros of Phillips’ New York office. It progressed swiftly, with numerous bidders contesting the lot. But the winner was the bidder represented by Livia Russo of Phillips in Geneva, who clinched it with a US$4.50m bid, which totals US$5.48m with fees. Intriguingly, auctioneer Aurel Bacs commented during the bidding that if Ms Russo’s client won the watch, it would disappear into a private collection like the record-setting Daytona sold in 2017 – though he did not say it was the same client that that bought both watches.
Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre combines the complications of the tourbillon, moonphase and jumping date display in a Master Ultra Thin package in this new watch.
Time+Tide
Hublot is a brand that does not always get its horological due. The movements that the brand does not produce in-house are horological footnotes compared to the movements that they do. At their core, Hublot are a bold, brave and forward-thinking manufacturer, and an excellent example of this temerity is the Meca-10 movement. As its … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic watch is horological sorcery on the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
This is the story of the final watch – or, truthfully, pair of watches – that GaryG happened upon at a Sotheby’s auction in late 2017 and felt that he just had to have: two 1970s prototype pieces made by Jaeger-LeCoultre. But why "unsalable"?
Quill & Pad
The hashtag #fliegerfriday is dedicated to the genre of flieger, or pilot’s, watches posted on social media on Fridays. Tutima, which has a long history in pilot's watches, asked Bhanu Chopra for some advice on developing a special-edition #fliegerfriday chronograph and together they came up with the Tutima Flieger Friday Chronograph Limited Edition. Here is its compelling story.
Hodinkee
Anordain finds translucence and transcendence with fumé enamel dials.
Deployant
Leica released a new SL2-S yesterday, and we got our hands-on session this morning. Here is our hands-on impression and thoughts on this new DSLM.
SJX Watches
Just last year Montblanc introduced the 1858 Split Second Chronograph powered by a gorgeous, mono-pusher Minerva movement. Debuted in a bronze case, the watch was a hit, and for good reason, it combined attractive, well-chosen vintage details and an well-finished movement, all for a very fair price. Having unveiled several other limited-edition versions of the watch since, Montblanc is continuing with the theme with the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 8, an exclusive for Singapore-based retailer Sincere Fine Watches that has a smoked, dark red dial and a titanium case. The 1858 Split Second Chronograph for Sincere Initial thoughts After the launch edition, Montblanc debuted an eight-piece limited edition in November 2019 made for Mexican watch fair Salón Internacional Alta Relojería (SIAR) that had a striking jade dial, which was followed by a hundred-piece limited edition with a stunning gradient-blue grand feu enamel dial in April of this year. And in between, it managed to put together a one-off example with an agate dial for charity auction Only Watch 2019. That makes the new Sincere edition the fifth iteration of the 1858 split seconds in less than 24 months. But fortunately it does not feel overdone – yet – given the small production runs for each version, as well as the interesting variety of dial materials. The first version of the 1858 split seconds in bronze The most obvious point of appeal of the watch is movement, which is derived from...
Revolution
Grand Seiko has a reputation as the maker of perfectly finished watches, where precision and performance of the highest calibre are valued above everything. And when it comes to their dive watches, the same depth is there…
Quill & Pad
Any time is an appropriate time to gift a watch lover with a book containing well-written words and beautiful photos of watches. At Quill & Pad we love reading books as much as we love writing them (on occasion). Here Elizabeth Doerr shares a selection of inspiring books we have reviewed, suitable for gifting or reading at any time of year. But especially this time of year!
Revolution
The BUBEN&ZORWEG; for Bugatti collection takes from design codes of the Chiron Super Sport 300+ and the “French Racing” to create extraordinary watch safes.
Time+Tide
It isn’t an uncommon occurrence for old watch brands to be revived. But for a brand to be resuscitated by the great-great-grandson of the founder is a rarer event. With Eugen Wegner, that’s exactly what happened. The brand was founded way back in 1897 in Gdańsk, Poland, and became successful selling pocket watches and marine … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Eugen Wegner One delivers a magnificent lacquer dial at a bafflingly good price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: A few months back, we announced that former Editor of GQ Australia, Mike Christensen, was to be our first European Editor. In this series, ‘11 Days of Londoners’, Mike will be sharing the stories of a few notable local collectors, starting on Day 1 with King Nerd, and with a stellar lineup still to come. … ContinuedThe post 11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 10 – Nick English, co-founder of Bremont Watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Skeleton dials are not necessarily everyone’s cup of tea, but the gearheads and engineers among us go crazy for the transparent aesthetic. They allow the wearer to see the internals of their watch throughout the day without having to flip the watch over to take a peek. When done right, it becomes a fascinating city … ContinuedThe post 8 of the best skeleton dials of 2020, from $340 to more than a million appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
We collaborate with Moritz Grossmann on the special-edition Benu 37 Steel that both inherits and reinvents the traditions of Saxon watchmaking.
Time+Tide
Even after such a strong year for Hublot, and after getting up close and personal with the Black Magic version here, the new Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Titanium still intrigues me with its intricately woven industrial micro-architecture. Even as the Big Bang series is getting close to becoming an industry standard for large, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Titanium feels like the future on your wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Just announced as an exclusive for Seiko’s longtime distributor in several Asian countries, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT “Champagne Diamond” SBGE267G is a variation on Grand Seiko’s longstanding Spring Drive GMT sports watch with its characteristic sapphire-covered bezel and sloping case flanks. Dressed in richer colours than the black or blue of the typical Grand Seiko sports watch, the SBGE267G has a dial rendered in metallic brown that’s matched with yellow gold-plated hands and indices. Executed in steel, the SBGE267G is powered by the 9R66 Spring Drive movement that has a second time zone function. And it’s an edition of 140 pieces meant for five countries, making it a fairly small run relative to other recent Grand Seiko limited editions. Initial thoughts Over the last couple of years, Grand Seiko has rolled out a variety of limited editions in a diversity of dial colours, but the SBGE267G still manages to be be different. Its look is distinctly more luxe than the standard Spring Drive GMT – the chestnut brown employed for the dial is unusual for Grand Seiko and striking, particularly combined with the gilt hands and markers. The brushed metallic dial surface catches the light nicely In the usual Grand Seiko fashion, the quality of the watch is excellent, with the dial and hands being especially outstanding for a watch of this price. Fabricated with a diamond-tipped tool, the hour markers and hands all have razor-sharp edges and near-mirrored su...
SJX Watches
Having made its three years ago with the affordable, vintage-inspired HMS and Bicompax – like many other brands in the segment – Baltic soon expanded its catalogue to include a similarly retro dive watch (and just last week an edition for Dubai retailer Perpétuel). And now the dive watch gets second time zone function with the launch of the Aquascaphe GMT. Introduced in three variants – with the most striking being the version with an orange and blue bezel – the Aquascaphe GMT is very much modelled on 1950s “big crown” dive watches, but with a sapphire-covered bezel and Swiss-made Soprod movement. Initial thoughts The Aquascaphe GMT continues to play to the strengths of Baltic, a French brand that manages good, vintage-inspired design in a a compact package, and at a modest price. Admittedly, such vintage-inspired watches are not particularly original, but they are have appeal, particularly since modern construction give them a practicality and robustness that the vintage originals lack. Credit goes to Baltic in giving the new GMT enough character to make it reasonably original. For instance, the 24-hour bezel is offered in interesting combinations of colours that are not the usual “Pepsi” or “Coke”, from a restrained grey and blue to a vibrant blue and orange. The rest of the GMT is similar to the original Aquascaphe dive watch, which means a handsome, compact case with good enough finishing for the price. But the GMT does diverge from the time-o...
SJX Watches
Launched with a solid-colour, grand feu enamel dial, the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon has been given simple but significant facelift with a new dial that’s a mix of aventurine glass and vitreous enamel. Made up of ground, powdered aventurine glass mixed with enamel powder, the dial has a deep, glossy surface with the characteristic sparkly metallic inclusions of aventurine glass. Initial thoughts When Audemars Piguet first launched the Code 11.59, only the perpetual calendar model had an aventurine-glass dial, and it was one of the best looking watches in the line up. Though not exactly identical, the aventurine-glass dials on the new tourbillons are no doubt as appealing, especially since they fill up the expanse of the dial. Even though the Code 11.59 lacks the desirability of the fashionable Royal Oak, it is an appealing watch when done right, as this one is. The new dial is a good fit for the case, which was well done to begin with. Featuring a fairly complex construction for a round watch, the case is sharply finished. Arguably the only downside of the case is its size, which is not large at 41 mm wide, but feels chunky on the wrist. The cal. 2950 made its debut last year with the Code 11.59. Also found in the recently launched Royal Oak tourbillon, the cal. 2950 is an attractively designed movement with an unusual detail: a grande sonnerie-style winding click integrated onto the barrel ratchet wheel. With a retail price of about US$150,000, the Code 11...
Time+Tide
The year is coming to a close (thank heavens) and there is a brighter horizon to look forward to in the coming months. However, there is value in reflecting on this past year, with the Time+Tide team coming in strong with amazing content throughout the doom and gloom – some of which you may have … ContinuedThe post LIST: Zach Blass’ 5 favourite articles of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Buying a pre-owned watch can be full of dangers. The watch might be fake, or not have all of the original parts, and it can be very hard to know all that - unless you have the original documentation of the watch. But even if these original papers have remained with the watch all these … ContinuedThe post NEWS: Hublot has perfect 2020 vision in their new e-warranty system appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Roy & Sacha Davidoff, two individuals we love and consider to be some of the best minds in all things Omega Speedmaster, sit down with Wei Koh over Zoom to give us their two cents on all of the Speedmasters that make up the Temple of Speed collection. The Temple of Speed is Revolution’s complete collection of vintage and modern collectible OMEGA Speedmasters, now on permanent display at the Revolution Watch Bar, in Singapore.
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