310 articles · 24 videos found · page 9 of 12
Monochrome
Founded in Paris in 1785 by Charles Leroy, L.Leroy was once one of France’s illustrious watchmaking houses, known for its marine chronometers, high complications and commissions for European royalty. After years of dormancy, the brand, acquired in 2004 by Miguel Rodríguez of the Festina Group, is staging a comeback. Following its first step with a […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Charles M. Schulz published his first Peanuts comics strip in 1950, setting the foundation for a world of iconic characters like Charlie Brown, Peppermint Patty, and perhaps most famously, Charlie Brown’s dog Snoopy, an irrepressible beagle originally based on a drawing of Schulz’s childhood pet, Spike. Peanuts grew from humble beginnings (syndicated in just seven newspapers) to become the most popular and influential comics strip in the world, published in more than 2,600 newspapers from 1950 to 2000 and claiming a worldwide readership of 355 million in 75 countries. It also spawned an entertainment and marketing phenomenon, with numerous animated film and TV specials that have stood the test of time and a flood of branded products that continues into the modern era. Snoopy, including all his various, beloved “fantasy life” iterations - like the World War I Flying Ace and the beatnik-inspired, shades-wearing “Joe Cool” - remains one of the most famous and recognizable characters in the world. His likeness can be found on merchandise from backpacks and sweatshirts, to notebooks and wrapping paper, to mugs and glassware, to the world’s most famous giant parade balloon. It was more or less inevitable that Snoopy, and others from the Peanuts gang, would also find their way onto watches, the first one coming from New York-based Armitron in 1956 (above). The last original Peanuts cartoon strip ran on February 13, 2000, one day after Charles M. Schulz die...
SJX Watches
Part I of our story on the evolution of hairspring materials covered temperature compensation along with the development of the first specialised balance spring alloy, Elinvar. The story brought us to the 1920s, when scientist and horologist Charles-Edouard Guillaume (1861-1938) finished his work on nickel-iron alloys and watchmakers begun embracing Elinvar springs paired with mono-metallic balances. In this second part we turn to newer hairspring alloys, like the now-ubiquitous Nivarox. Then we look at today’s landscape and the future, touching on research done by the Swatch Group with alternative, niobium-based alloys and also the specialised but obscure Seiko SPRON 610 hairspring. Lastly we discuss silicon springs, which are growing more prevalent across a range of timepieces. Elinvar’s weaknesses Elinvar was by far the greatest breakthrough in self-compensating alloy hairsprings at the time. Guillaume considered Elinvar good enough and not needing further improvement - unsurprisingly since he was its inventor - but other watchmakers and engineers continued to experiment with iron-nickel compounds because Elinvar’s inherent properties made it a good, but imperfect, material. Even though the alloy behaved predictably with temperature changes, its physical properties were not ideal to begin with. Elinvar was a soft metal, which posed its own suite of problems for spring applications. The importance of softness in terms of hairspring performance is not related ...
Fratello
If you are a regular reader of Fratello, you might be aware that I adore the Credor Locomotive. Gérald Genta’s remarkable creation is one of those standout watches that most either love or hate. There seems to be no middle ground when it comes to the watch’s extravagant looks. I was fortunate enough to spend […] Visit Falling In Love All Over Again With The Green-Dial Version Of The Credor Locomotive to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Half a century after the Bvlgari Bvlgari was conceived by Gianni Bulgari and then redesigned by Gerald Genta, the Bulgari is making the occasion with Italian marble dials – without a date window – in both large and small sizes. This is the first instance the model sports a stone dial, which is paired with an in-house movement for the large mechanical model. Initial Thoughts In 50 years, the Bvlgari Bvlgari has gone through innumerable permutations in design and materials while retaining its key design element of a flat, engraved bezel. The 50th anniversary edition is mostly faithful to the original, with only one minor misstep: the bezel engraving is done by machine and lacks the character of the hand-engraved original. The addition of a seconds hand and display back to the automatic version will likely bolster sales, but detracts from the simplicity and refinement of the design. I do appreciate the unsigned crown and dropping the date. Also in its favor is pricing, which is reasonable for a solid gold watch from a major brand. Marbleous New Dials Initially conceived by Gianni Bulgari in 1975 as a digital watch gifted to top clients, the Bvlgari Bvlgari was subject to a 1977 redesign by the prolific Gerald Genta that made it a breakout success for the Roman jeweller. The case design was inspired by coins minted by the Roman Empire, which were struck with the current Emperor’s name along the perimeter. Genta’s 1977 Bvlgari Bvlgari of 1977 (left), and the original di...
Monochrome
Thanks to the recent introduction of the revived Locomotive watch, made with Gérald Genta, many might have finally got to know about Credor, the high-end watch brand owned by the Seiko Watch Corporation, alongside Grand Seiko. For now, its fame mostly came from the splendid Eichi models, as well as the ultra-complicated minute repeaters and grande sonneries. But […]
Quill & Pad
Niclas has arranged to meet the seller of a platinum Rolex Day-Date at Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris. If all goes well, the watch transaction should be completed within an hour the he would catch the next flightto Stockholm. What makes him nervous is that the deal is to be done in cryptocurrency. But that's not what went wrong.
Monochrome
IWC’s Ingenieur collection has been slated for growth this year, welcoming new sizes, materials, and complications. Representing the most compact member of the family to date, the new 35mm Ingenieur is a smart move to conquer more wrist sizes in the ever-expanding unisex sector. Presented in three variants, the smallest descendants of Gérald Genta’s design […]
Monochrome
Launched in 2023, the Ingenieur Automatic 40 pays tribute to the bold design of the Ingenieur SL Ref. 1832, created by Gérald Genta in the 1970s. While staying true to its iconic aesthetic, the re-engineered model offers improved ergonomics and refined finishing. As gold was also used to make the 1970s Ingenieur SL Ref. 9232, […]
Monochrome
IWC is busy this year rolling out new iterations of its Ingenieur, a collection that underwent a major revamp in 2023 to resurface with its Gérald Genta heritage intact. The watch we’re introducing today comes with a fun story involving actor Brad Pitt and the upcoming movie F1. What was initially a prop watch for […]
Fratello
Two years ago, IWC introduced the new iteration of the Ingenieur as a capsule collection. Three steel and one Grade 5 titanium creation debuted, resembling the 1976 Ingenieur SL ref. 1832, an original Gérald Genta design. A blue-dial version was missing from the original lineup, but it came eventually. For this year’s Watches and Wonders, […] Visit IWC Presents A Plethora Of New Ingenieur Watches In Black Ceramic, 5N Gold, And Steel - Including A Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.
Monochrome
IWC staged the much-anticipated return of its Ingenieur in 2023, an iconic reference designed by the late Gérald Genta. Recovering genetic traits of Genta’s famous 1976 Ingenieur SL Jumbo reference 1832, the current collection was rekindled with a handsome, fully integrated 40mm Automatic in steel and titanium. The latest Ingenieur Automatic is slightly larger and […]
Fratello
When IWC released the Ingenieur Automatic 40 at Watches and Wonders in 2023, it was a return to the classic ’70s-style integrated-bracelet look. It draws heavily upon the Gérald Genta-designed Ingenieur SL ref. 1832 from 1976. These collectible vintage watches are expensive and rare, so having a modern alternative makes sense. Two years after the […] Visit Revisiting The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 With A Blue Dial to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Phillips Perpetual will shortly open a three-day exhibition dedicated to independent watchmaking at its London showroom. Independent Spirit will comprise five notable watchmakers whose work encapsulate the diversity of the genre: Konstantin Chaykin, Raúl Pagès, Theo Auffret, Charles Frodsham, and David Candaux. The watch boutique arm of the eponymous auctioneer, Phillips Perpetual conceived the exhibition as a small-scale event that will allow personal interaction with each of the watchmakers, or in the case of the long-departed Charles Frodsham, the brand’s representatives. The exhibition will be a rare opportunity to meet some of the leading lights of independent watchmaking. Amongst them is Raúl Pagès, a true artisanal watchmaker in the traditional sense. Mr Pages will have on hand examples of the Soberly Onyx, his inaugural watch, and the RP1 Régulateur à détente that won him the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize. Raúl Pagès While all of the other watchmakers at the exhibition are relatively young, Charles Frodsham is a continuously-operating, centuries-old brand – proof that independent watchmaking innovation can come from unexpected places. The movement of the Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer The only watchmaker absent is Konstantin Chaykin, who unfortunately was not able to travel for the exhibition due to travel restrictions resulting from his nationality. That’s unfortunately as the Russian watch- and clockmaker is a technician and artist whom I ...
Monochrome
Squale is often regarded as sort of a hidden gem of the dive watch scene, a brand that speaks mostly to hardcore divers and seasoned aquatic watch enthusiasts. Created by Charles Von Büren in 1959, who also made cases for multiple other companies (military Fifty Fathoms watches, for example), the brand gained fame thanks to […]
SJX Watches
Have revived the Credor Locomotive last year with the limited edition GCCR999, Seiko has now added the Gerald Genta-designed sports watch to its regular production lineup. The Credor Locomotive GCCR997 is identical to its limited edition counterpart, save for the dial, which is now dark green with an intricate hexagon pattern. Initial thoughts Having already gotten wind of the Locomotive becoming regular production, the new GCCR997 isn’t a surprise. It is also inevitable given the good response enjoyed by the limited edition, which was well priced, especially for the case and bracelet quality. The honeycomb dial with its novel pattern is a nice touch. Seiko has wisely kept the retail price essentially unchanged over the limited edition – this is about US$500 more expensive – which means the is still good value, and also more accessible. And I’m sure this won’t be the only Locomotive in the catalogue, so expect to see more variants in the future. Hexagon themed The new Locomotive has the same titanium case and bracelet found on last year’s model. The GCCR997 retains the dimensions of the vintage original that was launched in 1978, but with an improved construction and finish. Made of Seiko’s “high-intensity” titanium, the case and bracelet are finished with a combination of brushed and polished surfaces that gleam a little more than usual because the proprietary alloy has greater hardness than the conventional titanium alloys used in watches. The original,...
Monochrome
Last year, to celebrate its 50th anniversary, Credor – the high-end, most classical brand owned by the Seiko Corporation – unveiled a very special watch based on the Locomotive concept and being a faithful recreation of Gérald Genta‘s original 1978 sketch. While Genta is best known for designing the iconic Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Ingenieur, […]
Worn & Wound
As I write this piece, I find it fitting that Worn & Wound was co-founded by Zach Weiss, who, as many of you may know, happens to be an Industrial Designer too. There are dozens of us! DOZENS! When it comes to Industrial Design and the watches we love, it’s hard to separate the two, especially in the modern day. For this argument, let’s assume “modern day” refers to everything after 1972, when Gerald Genta changed the watch landscape forever with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Not only did this release change the landscape for folks within the watch industry, but it caught the eye of Industrial Designers who were green in their careers at the time, which later created a snowball effect of designing outside the box when it comes to watches. No longer were we restricted to the round case and the simple forms of previous years. Yes, there were unique watches before this period, but with the progression of design aesthetics and newer advanced manufacturing methods, this was the jumping-off point for wild designs and new methods of manufacture. Marc Newson, the world-renowned industrial designer, is one of those who likely caught the curiosity bug of watches at the right time (pun fully intended). This is purely speculation on my part, but there is some evidence for my madness here, so bear with me. He would have been 9 years old when the Royal Oak was introduced, and years later, when adolescent youth and creativity were at a high for him during his university years, I...
SJX Watches
IWC’s sports watch with an integrated bracelet, the Ingenieur Automatic 40, now gets a dial in dark blue, arguably the quintessential dial colour for such watches. Modelled on the Ingenieur SL designed by Gérald Genta’s in the 1970s, the modern day Ingenieur was released last year in several dial colours, including black and silver. The new model with a blue dial retains the exact same design, including a bezel secured by five functional screws, an integrated H-link bracelet, and a grid-patterned dial. Initial thoughts As a classic colour for such a watch, the blue dial was long expected. It’s arguably the most appealing Ingenieur, though the titanium model has an edge (at a much, much higher price). While it is hard to find fault in the execution of the Ingenieur, it was released somewhat late, as the fad for integrated bracelets already lost steam last year. This new addition is arriving even later, though the upside is it will be more easily available than before. The blue dial model is priced the same as the earlier versions, making it a little expensive considering the entry-level movement inside. Most sports watches with integrated bracelets in the same price segment rely on more sophisticated calibres. Textured blue The new version has specs identical to its siblings in the collection. The stainless steel case is 40 mm in diameter and 10.8 mm thick. Featuring brushed surfaces with polished bevels, the case has the 1970s Ingenieur elements of a circular bezel ...
Monochrome
Born in the mid-1950s as a watch designed for people working in magnetic environments (hence its name), the IWC Ingenieur is mostly remembered in its 1976 shape when IWC released the SL Jumbo reference 1832, designed by Gerald Genta using his classic integrated luxury sports watch concept. It took some years for IWC to finally […]
Monochrome
The Polerouter is, without a doubt, one of the most emblematic watches ever created by Universal Genève. Not only was it designed by young Gérald Genta, but it was powered by an important micro-rotor movement and was a purpose-built watch created by request of SAS, asking Universal Genève to create a watch that could support […]
Fratello
If 100 people were asked about the first words that come to mind when “Audemars Piguet” is spoken, I wager that almost all would respond with “Royal Oak.” That signals how popular Gérald Genta’s groundbreaking 1972 design has become. However, before this and even after the Royal Oak was released, Audemars offered a very different […] Visit In-Depth: The Audemars Piguet 5043BC “Ultra-Thin” And Caliber 2003 to read the full article.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we’ll take a look at the famous Patek Philippe Nautilus. It’s a great reminder of what makes Gérald Genta’s creation stand out. The watch was first introduced in 1976 and has become one of the industry’s leading silhouettes over time. But we all know that the brand discontinued the […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Patek Philippe Nautilus References to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
I have a confession to make: I’m a bit of an integrated bracelet sports watch skeptic. As the watch community went crazy for integrated, Gerald Genta inspired designs over the last few years, I largely observed from the bench. Watches like the Royal Oak, the Nautilus, and newer challengers like Moser’s Streamliner and Chopard’s reissued (and heavily redesigned) Alpine Eagle have always been curiosities at best, for me. I’ve never lusted after an integrated bracelet sports watch. It feels like that’s almost transgressive to say, or at least would have been at the height of Royal Oak mania a few years ago – but it’s just never been a real point of interest for me. Now, part of the reason for that is certainly the prohibitive price point of many of the most sought after integrated bracelet sports watches. I don’t have thirty thousand dollars (or more) to spend on a watch, and quite frankly if I did, I think I could find other watches I’d prefer for the money. But it’s not just the expense. I’ve never been a fan of the way these watches look on my wrist. Even if I admire the craftsmanship of a Royal Oak bracelet – because it’s honestly undeniable – something about the hard angles just didn’t do it for me. Anyway, skeptic though I am, part of the deal when you work in the watch media world is that you just get to see and try on a lot of stuff. And so there I was at Windup Chicago earlier this year, checking out watches at the Citizen boot...
Monochrome
If I were to ask you what the greatest American-made supercar is, what would your answer be? The Corvette? The Viper? The Saleen S7 perhaps? Very likely, but I bet a few of you will immediately think of Gerald Wiegert and his Vector cars. Although it wasn’t meant to be for various reasons, you can’t […]
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! We’re slowly coming to the end of our series of lists that highlight the best of the first half of 2024. This week, we picked our favorite modern luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets. The category that was started by Gérald Genta’s Royal Oak has really taken off in the past […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Sports Watches With Integrated Bracelets Of The First Half Of 2024 to read the full article.
Fratello
The Credor Locomotive is, without a doubt, the most surprising release of the past few months. Credor’s revival of this Gérald Genta-designed classic from the 1970s had people talking. In particular, strong opinions about whether this was a good design or not quickly made the rounds on social media. At first sight, the Locomotive doesn’t […] Visit Going Hands-On With The Divisive Modern Version Of The Credor Locomotive to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
The IWC Ingenieur is, in my opinion, one of Gerald Genta’s most underrated designs. But does it hold up compared to some of his most iconic pieces? Let’s find out! What We Love: Breathtaking design Moulds perfectly onto my wrist Genta heritage, but feels unique What We Don’t: A micro-adjust butterfly clasp would be nice Would love a display back Would be nice to have a COSC movement Final Score: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 8/10 IWC is a watch brand that for me personally, I hadn’t really done a deep dive into before. I feel that it is a brand that if you know, you know, and once you get into the brand, many people are hooked. But when I joined Watch Advice, I began to delve deeper into the industry and watchmaking itself. To my surprise (and nobody else’s), I discovered that IWC had contributed much more to horology than I had ever cared to know before. This and the fact that the guys visited the Manufacture in Schaffhausen in April, and regaled me of their adventures there! The giant perpetual calendar movement on the wall in the entry of the IWC Manufacture in Schaffhausen which we visited earlier this year before Watches & Wonders 2024 Founded in 1868 by Bostonian watchmaker Florentine Ariosto Jones, the International Watch Company found its roots during Jones’ time in Schaffhausen, Switzerland. From there, they would combine American manufacturing with Swiss craftsmanship to produce high-quality timepiece...
Monochrome
An emblematic name for the dive watch community, Squale has gained great credibility with its solid, no-nonsense models and recognition from military forces. Created in 1959, when Charles Von Büren registered the Squale name, this year, the brand celebrates its 65th anniversary. A few months ago, Squale released the Master Titanium 120 ATM, an appealing […]
Teddy Baldassarre
IWC released a new generation of its Ingenieur collection in 2023, at what many would consider the tail end of the integrated-luxury-sport-watch craze that gripped the industry heading into 2020. At the time, it was tempting to say that IWC was a bit late to the punch here, especially considering the Schaffhausen-based brand's enviable position of having an original Gérald Genta design from the ‘70s to utilize. In hindsight, however, it seems that IWC was playing the long game, and wasn’t interested in rushing out a throwback type of release. Instead, IWC took a bit more time and released a modern rendition of the original Genta design, released in 1976, as a foundation for years to come. The result is the Reference 3289 Ingenieur, and it’s a watch that looks to do more than merely capitalize on a passing trend. There are two watches with which you likely associate the name Gérald Genta, and those are the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. Genta penned both of these now iconic designs, in 1972 and 1976 respectively, and they have served as cornerstones in creating the premium sport-watch genre as a whole, as well as helped to spawn the subset of integrated-bracelet designs within it. But those are far from the only watches that can be attributed to Genta, and in fact, aren’t even the only integrated-bracelet sport-watch designs to come out of that era. In 1976, he also designed a new Ingenieur for IWC, known as the SL Ref. 1832 (tha...
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