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The Grand Seiko You Didn’t Know Existed – an Owner’s Review of the SBGX331 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko You Didn’t Know Existed May 16, 2025

The Grand Seiko You Didn’t Know Existed – an Owner’s Review of the SBGX331

With Grand Seiko’s rise to popularity in the last few years, it’s hard to find a truly obscure model. And yet, here we are. No, it’s not some vintage reference buried in the archives or a short-lived limited edition you didn’t know about. It’s a modern watch-one that was still available as recently as fall 2023. It wasn’t exclusive to a single boutique, and yet, you’ve likely never seen it before. Why? Because it’s a Japanese domestic model that’s flown almost entirely under the radar. The watch is the Grand Seiko SBGX331-and by the time you finish reading this, you might just want one yourself. So, how did I end up with the SBGX331? Back in September 2023, I had the chance to travel to Japan as part of the Grand Seiko Media Experience-a whirlwind tour of Seiko and Grand Seiko’s facilities across Honshu. Over just a few days, we visited multiple workshops, watched artisans at work, and took in various presentations on the brand’s history, movements, and proprietary technologies. We saw case finishing, dial printing, and even the production of Credor Eichi II dials. And yes, we ate-a lot. For a more detailed breakdown of that trip, check out my write-up here. As a longtime Grand Seiko fan, it wasn’t so much a crash course as it was a chance to confirm that all the stories I’d read-and in some cases repeated-were actually real. Seeing Zaratsu polishing done in person, or hands being heat-blued to a precise hue, or watching minute indices...

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Day-Date Models With Exotic Dials Fratello
Rolex Day-Date Models May 9, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Day-Date Models With Exotic Dials

The Rolex Day-Date has long been the brand’s flagship model. We sometimes forget that fact due to all the new Rolex releases every year. We usually only see new dial variations for the Day-Date. But that makes sense; after all, why drastically change something if it’s already so good? This is why we decided to […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Day-Date Models With Exotic Dials to read the full article.

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref 5328G May 8, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G

One of several strong new releases from Patek Philippe this year, the Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G is a simple day-date watch distinguished by an all-new manually wound, eight-day movement. Carrying on the contemporary aesthetic of the Calatrava ref. 5226G and Annual Calendar ref. 5326G, the new watch features a grained fumé dial and an 18k white gold case with a middle fully encircled with clous de Paris guilloche. The ref. 5238G is purposeful in its design, which gives it a casual, almost tool watch-like appearance that offers a pleasing contrast to its overtly luxurious case and movement. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe put on a good show at Watches & Wonders this year, and the ref. 5328G might be my favourite of the bunch. The watch has a strong presence thanks to its hobnail case band and instrument-like dial, but it really stands out when you turn the watch over and see the vintage-inspired bridge architecture. Patek Philippe is usually pretty utilitarian when it comes to movement design, so it’s nice to see them let their hair down and have some fun with this one. The fumé navy blue dial features an asphalt-like texture first seen on the ref. 5226G introduced in 2022. The ref. 5328G also benefits from this predecessor’s lumed syringe hands and clean Arabic numerals, which give it the earnest, purposeful feel of a deck watch. Patek Philippe is not known for its typographical expertise, but here even the numerals on the date ring strike the right tone. The watch f...

Hands-On With The Sublime Doxa Sub 250T GMT Fratello
Doxa Sub 250T GMT When May 1, 2025

Hands-On With The Sublime Doxa Sub 250T GMT

When Doxa dropped the new Sub 250T GMT a month ago, it was met with near-universal praise. Nine different dial options debuted, including the most famous Doxa colorways. We saw all of them in Geneva and had the opportunity to spend time with them at Fratello HQ. Today, I’ll review these pieces and address the […] Visit Hands-On With The Sublime Doxa Sub 250T GMT to read the full article.

Thoughts On The Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G Fratello
Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref 5328G Apr 30, 2025

Thoughts On The Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G

In true Watches and Wonders tradition, Patek Philippe graced us with a string of new introductions. The Genevan brand unveiled 14 new wrist watches and a unique desk clock this year. Among them, there are always standouts. The big release for this year was not a highly complicated timepiece or a new addition to the […] Visit Thoughts On The Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G to read the full article.

De Bethune Turns to Swizz Beatz for Kind of Two GMT SJX Watches
De Bethune Turns Apr 10, 2025

De Bethune Turns to Swizz Beatz for Kind of Two GMT

The third iteration of De Bethune’s swivelling, double-faced watch is the Kind of Two GMT “Season 3” conceived in collaboration with American rapper and watch enthusiast Swizz Beatz. Powered by the hand-wound DB2517 movement, the watch indicates one time zone on the front and another on the reverse, with both sides able to be worn face up thanks to patented, pivoting “floating” lugs. Initial thoughts The Kind of Two series employs a useful reversible case, cleverly using the “floating” lug construction of the DB28 to create a double-faced watch. Here one dial is traditional with blued steel hands, and the other an open-worked face revealing the movement that also has a regulator-style display for the second time zone. The clever approach with a unique movement is typical De Bethune, although this loses some novelty as the third double-faced watch in the De Bethune line-up. The Kind of Two GMT is definitely one of the most elaborate two time zone watches on the market, but at over US$200,000, it is pricey for a GMT, even by the standards of independent watchmaking (Voutilainen’s GMT, for instance, costs less). Two-faced The “Season 3” edition adopts a restrained palette of black and gold with blue accents. The 43.3 mm by 11.4 mm case is titanium and zirconium, with blued steel hands and a blue-and-black guilloche dial centre on the front showing local time. Notably, this dial includes a jumping seconds that is driven by a secondary escapement visible on ...

First Look – The Sleek Black and Blue Wetsuit of the De Bethune DB28GS Swordfish Monochrome
De Bethune DB28GS Swordfish Introduced Apr 9, 2025

First Look – The Sleek Black and Blue Wetsuit of the De Bethune DB28GS Swordfish

Introduced in 2010, De Bethune’s DB28 family distils the essence of Denis Flageollet’s unique watchmaking style with its futuristic silhouette, floating lugs, delta-shaped barrel bridge, exposed balance wheel, and, more often than not, the brand’s signature blued titanium elements. In 2015, the DB28 was revisited in a sportier version with a 100m water-resistant case known […]

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date And A New Beads-Of-Rice Bracelet Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date Apr 1, 2025

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date And A New Beads-Of-Rice Bracelet

For Watches and Wonders 2025, TAG Heuer announces a new lineup of Carrera Day-Date watches. Six references complete the collection with a variety of dials, case materials, and functions. Also, a new beads-of-rice bracelet is now an option for all Carrera Chronograph Glassbox models. For enthusiasts, the Carrera Day-Date may not be as exciting as […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date And A New Beads-Of-Rice Bracelet to read the full article.

Introducing: The New Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day 5328G Fratello
Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day 5328G Making Apr 1, 2025

Introducing: The New Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day 5328G

Making an early yet impressive start to the much-awaited deluge of Watches and Wonders 2025 releases, Patek Philippe has just introduced 15 new models to its catalog. Among them is the Calatrava 8-Day ref. 5328G-001. This watch also marks the debut of a new movement, the in-house 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J. Patek Philippe […] Visit Introducing: The New Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day 5328G to read the full article.

Introducing – The New De Bethune DB25NC Monopusher Chronograph Monochrome
De Bethune DB25NC Monopusher Chronograph Mar 31, 2025

Introducing – The New De Bethune DB25NC Monopusher Chronograph

The mono-pusher chronograph has become a signature complication for De Bethune and Denis Flageollet. The DB1, the brand’s first watch in 2002, was a monopusher chrono using the movement developed by THA. It was followed by several other mono-pusher chronographs among which the DB8 in 2003, the DB28 Maxichrono in 2014 and the DB Eight […]

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 250T GMT - A Multi-Timezone Watch Returns By Popular Demand Fratello
Doxa Sub 250T GMT - Mar 26, 2025

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 250T GMT - A Multi-Timezone Watch Returns By Popular Demand

If you consider yourself a passionate diver, chances are that you strive to dive in different underwater habitats. After all, variety is the spice of life, isn’t it? So you may find yourself traveling all over the globe, looking for diving hotspots. Unfortunately, the Doxa on your wrist does not aid in keeping track of […] Visit Introducing: The Doxa Sub 250T GMT - A Multi-Timezone Watch Returns By Popular Demand to read the full article.

Hands On Review Of The Cartier Panthère de Cartier WatchAdvice
Cartier Panthère de Cartier I Mar 19, 2025

Hands On Review Of The Cartier Panthère de Cartier

I took the Panthère de Cartier in 18K yellow gold for review, and from the moment I held it, the watch’s elegance and refinement were undeniable. Cartier has once again proven that true luxury isn’t about complexity—it’s about timeless design, effortless wearability, and an unmistakable presence on the wrist. What We Love: The timepiece has a well-balanced design that sits elegantly on the wrist. The white dial perfectly complements the gold case, bezel and bracelet. The gold model, as expected, gives a more luxury appeal compared to the other variants of the timepiece and has a shine that is hard to take your eyes away from! What We Don’t: Lack of micro-adjustment on the bracelet for a better snug fit. Due to the highly polished finish of the gold, the timepiece is prone to scratching While the gold is stunning on the wrist, it doesn’t offer the same versatility as the steel for everyday wear. Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Cartier is renowned for crafting timepieces that strike the perfect balance between subtle elegance and distinctive flair, allowing them to stand out without being overtly flashy. The brand’s mastery lies in its use of unconventional shapes and design elements that enhance a watch’s character without overpowering its essence. The Panthère de Cartier is a perfect example of this philosophy—its design is simple and refined, yet beneath its understated appearance...

Spending Time With The President - The Rolex Day-Date 40 Refs. 228239 And 228235 Fratello
Rolex Day-Date 40 Refs 228239 Mar 14, 2025

Spending Time With The President - The Rolex Day-Date 40 Refs. 228239 And 228235

I have spent plenty of time around the iconic Rolex Day-Date. Those watches, however, were all vintage or, at best, neo-vintage. My time spent with the current generation is limited, to put it mildly, so I felt it was about time I tried on a pair of thoroughly modern DDs in the contemporary 40mm size. […] Visit Spending Time With The President - The Rolex Day-Date 40 Refs. 228239 And 228235 to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar - Could This Yellow-Dial Diver Have A Place In My Collection? Fratello
Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar - Mar 2, 2025

Hands-On With The Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar - Could This Yellow-Dial Diver Have A Place In My Collection?

Ever since Hodinkee Editor-in-Chief James Stacey posted an image on social media of a Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar, I knew I had to do a hands-on with one. Yellow is a color that keeps drawing me back. The Divingstar had already been on my radar, but seeing it time and time again wore down my […] Visit Hands-On With The Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar - Could This Yellow-Dial Diver Have A Place In My Collection? to read the full article.