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In-Depth: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, Materials and Mechanisms SJX Watches
Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II Nov 19, 2024

In-Depth: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, Materials and Mechanisms

Perhaps the most recognisable travel watch in history, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master was launched in 1955, just as the world was entering the Jet Age of intercontinental travel. The inaugural GMT-Master model was the ref. 6542 that sported a distinctive bezel colour-coded in red and blue to distinguish day- and night-time. The coloured bezel would go on to become a defining feature of the GMT-Master and iconic within the wider genre of travel watches. Originally made of fragile Plexiglas, the bezel evolved into a robust anodised aluminium insert in 1959, the same year the GMT-Master became the official watch of Pan American World Airways, better known as Pan Am, then the world’s biggest airline. Rolex advertising from the 1950s celebrating the first non-stop transatlantic flight by Pan Am where both pilots wore the GMT-Master The GMT-Master earned iconic status with its functionality and technical excellence, but equal credit goes to the notable personalities individuals wearing a GMT-Master who witnessed, or even made, history. Astronaut Edgar Mitchell wore one on the Apollo 14 mission that landed on the Moon in February 1971. Several United States Air Force pilots set speed records while wearing a GMT-Master, including William J. Knight in 1967. And Val Kilmer sported one while playing Iceman in Top Gun. US Air Force pilot William J. Knight set an all-time speed record of 7,272 km/h (Mach 6.7) on October 3, 1967 in an X-15 rocket plane, while wearing a GMT-Mast...

A Stunner: The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184 Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre Sep 21, 2024

A Stunner: The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184

Jaeger-LeCoultre creates some of the most complicated watches on the market. Today’s Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184 is a stunning example of this. The movement may not be new, but it’s wildly impressive and sits in an equally mesmerizing pink gold case. This is one to savor for its details and artisanship. One of my […] Visit A Stunner: The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184 to read the full article.

Hands-on – Revisiting the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked in White Gold Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Aug 6, 2024

Hands-on – Revisiting the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked in White Gold

Initially introduced in 2022 as part of the 50th-anniversary celebrations of the Royal Oak, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked was first released in steel (reference 16204ST), featuring a steel-grey skeletonized movement and contrasting pink gold hands and indices. Following this, the watch was also made available in pink, yellow and white gold cases. While the […]

A Belated Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster Ultra Deep Summer Blue Fratello
Omega Seamaster Ultra Deep Summer Jul 19, 2024

A Belated Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster Ultra Deep Summer Blue

You might say that Omega’s Summer Blue collection is old news in 2024, and you’d be right. Omega’s Summer Blue line was hot and trendy in 2023, but it’s been a year, and aside from a few underwhelming Olympic models, we have not seen much from the Biel/Bienne-based brand. OK, there were the white-dial and […] Visit A Belated Hands-On With The Omega Seamaster Ultra Deep Summer Blue to read the full article.

Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked In White Gold Fratello
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin May 8, 2024

Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked In White Gold

This is hardly the first open-worked version of the legendary Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin, but it is my favorite one so far. The perfection is in the white gold that “AP” used for the watch’s exterior, the internal and external finishing, and the choice of colors. The way the watch combines significant weight […] Visit Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked In White Gold to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Master Chronometer Vs. Rolex Submariner 124060 Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Master Chronometer Apr 14, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Master Chronometer Vs. Rolex Submariner 124060

It’s Sunday morning! To be more exact, it’s the Sunday of Watches and Wonders. It’s the last day of this year’s fair before it’s in the history books. With the Fratello team back home and the Genevan dust clouds starting to settle, it’s time for our first Sunday Morning Showdown featuring one of the novelties […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Master Chronometer Vs. Rolex Submariner 124060 to read the full article.

The new Rolex GMT-Master II 126710 makes the half-ghost bezel accessible, in theory Time+Tide
Rolex GMT-Master II 126710 makes Apr 9, 2024

The new Rolex GMT-Master II 126710 makes the half-ghost bezel accessible, in theory

While many fans expected a Coke bezel, Rolex goes with a ghosty black and grey for the new GMT-Master II. The black-on-black-on-grey combo is unlikely to be the game-changer that a coloured ceramic bezel would be, but it’ll undoubtedly be a hit among fans. The monochromatic GMT is available on either a Jubilee or Oyster … ContinuedThe post The new Rolex GMT-Master II 126710 makes the half-ghost bezel accessible, in theory appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fratello Editors Share Their Five-Watch Collections - Daan’s Picks From Cartier, Rolex, Breguet, JLC, And Serica Fratello
Breguet JLC Feb 2, 2024

Fratello Editors Share Their Five-Watch Collections - Daan’s Picks From Cartier, Rolex, Breguet, JLC, And Serica

Just like many of you, I thoroughly enjoyed seeing all the shots of enthusiasts’ five-watch collections on Instagram. In a way, it’s nice to see people struggle to pick their five favorite watches (is that horological schadenfreude?). Above all, though, it’s amusing to find out which watches people choose as their favorites and why. Up […] Visit Fratello Editors Share Their Five-Watch Collections - Daan’s Picks From Cartier, Rolex, Breguet, JLC, And Serica to read the full article.

In-Depth: The Genius Behind the Audemars Piguet Universelle RD#4 Ultra-Complication SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Universelle RD#4 Ultra-Complication Compl... Jan 22, 2024

In-Depth: The Genius Behind the Audemars Piguet Universelle RD#4 Ultra-Complication

Complicated watches are crucial to Audemars Piguet’s history, starting from its establishment in 1875 to the modern day; Audemars Piguet (AP) even supplied “ultra” complication movements to other brands in the late 19th and early 20th century. But it was in 2022 that the brand debuted its most impressive complicated watch – arguably the most impressive ever – the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4. “Ultra” complications with multiple functions are de rigueur for important watch brands, from Patek Philippe to F.P. Journe, so the Universelle RD#4 is unsurprising given the status of Audemars Piguet as one of the traditional “holy trinity” of Swiss watchmaking. The Universelle RD#4 is surprising, however, in its execution. The Universelle RD#4 is not merely another oversized and extremely complicated watch. Instead it has been thoughtfully designed to be unexpectedly user-friendly and wearable. In fact, the slim and sophisticated construction of its cal. 1000 is as much of an accomplishment as the long list of complications it offers. Put another way, the cal. 1000 is a masterclass in achieving the right balance between complexity, usability, and wearability. The historical Universelle pocket watch from 1899 in the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet that served as inspiration for its modern-day namesake An overview The Universelle RD#4 is an “ultra” complication – there’s no other way to describe it. The watch ticks the boxe...

The Longines Master Collection Small Seconds is what happens when a brand listens to enthusiasts Time+Tide
Longines Master Collection Small Seconds Aug 23, 2023

The Longines Master Collection Small Seconds is what happens when a brand listens to enthusiasts

Longines unveils an engraved trio with three different dial colours in three different finishes The watches are downsized from 40mm to 38.5mm, in a move destined to be popular among enthusiasts An azurage-finish petite seconde is courtesy of the silicon hairspring-equipped L893.5 How often do you see a brand new release that immediately captures you? … ContinuedThe post The Longines Master Collection Small Seconds is what happens when a brand listens to enthusiasts appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: Longines Master Collection Small Seconds SJX Watches
Longines Master Collection Small Seconds Jul 27, 2023

Hands On: Longines Master Collection Small Seconds

Longines marked a historical milestone last year with the well-received Master Collection 190th Anniversary, a watch that combines classic good looks with a modest price tag. Now the brand has taken the same styling and applied it to another model to create the Master Collection Small Seconds. The Small Seconds makes its debut in a pleasing variety of dial colours, including a fashionable “salmon”. As much of a value proposition as last year’s anniversary model, the Small Seconds retains the same aesthetic as its predecessor but with a subsidiary seconds at six that gives it a more retro feel. But because of the small seconds, it becomes a noticeably thicker watch. So even though it looks much like the anniversary edition, the Small Seconds feels different. Initial thoughts The Small Seconds is largely identical to its centre-seconds counterpart, so it has much of the same appeal. The design is a pleasing vintage style with all the right elements like Breguet numerals and leaf-shaped hands. Admittedly, the styling is somewhat generic – it’s vintage inspired rather than a remake – but the result is appealing, especially considering its affordability. Although the watch is clearly an industrial product, the details are done well, the engraved numerals are especially attractive. This is especially so on the anthracite and salmon dials, which have the numerals in contrasting plating. The anthracite dial is especially striking because it is a relatively uncommon co...

Tom Cruise adds a RLX Titanium Rolex Yacht-Master to his already strong collection Time+Tide
Rolex Yacht-Master Jul 7, 2023

Tom Cruise adds a RLX Titanium Rolex Yacht-Master to his already strong collection

Regardless of how you feel about the man off-screen, Tom Cruise is irrefutably one of the greatest action movie stars of all time – if not the greatest. His dedication and innovation within the action film space is unrivalled, with him training for incredibly dangerous stunts and co-developing the means to perfectly shoot and capture … ContinuedThe post Tom Cruise adds a RLX Titanium Rolex Yacht-Master to his already strong collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Maurice LaCroix AIKON Master Grand Date Gets Color-Coordinated with the Technicolour Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix AIKON Master Grand Date May 3, 2023

The Maurice LaCroix AIKON Master Grand Date Gets Color-Coordinated with the Technicolour

Late last year, Maurice LaCroix debuted the stealthy Aikon Master Grand Date Black, a tasteful amalgamation of their integrated steel sports AIKON collection and their more refined Masterpiece collection, fittingly dressed in black on black attire. Assisted by the gentle use of white dial accents and emblazoned with an open heart display, the AIKON Master Grand Date Black features a distinguishable off-center dial, grand date complication, and a small through-dial window partially revealing their in-house ML331 movement. It’s most certainly a significant step for the brand in terms of blending their different design languages, but a conservative step in regards to the monochromatic aesthetic. We are most certainly aware that Maurice LaCroix knows how to let loose when it comes to the application of vibrant colors throughout their entire range, and with warmer weather and sunny skies afield, it was only appropriate that ML released a more playful take on their AIKON Master Grand Date. The Maurice LaCroix Grand Date Technicolour comes in four different colorways that taps into the vibrancy and playful use of color in their AIKON #tide collection. Now with a wider color spectrum at their disposal, accompanied by high-end watchmaking at its core and a sport watch build, you can in-arguably make the case that the Grand Date Technicolour touches on all design aspects of the brand. The Grand Date Technicolour retains the asymmetric dial configuration that makes these types of w...