Hodinkee
Photo Report: British Watchmakers Day 2026
A sold-out celebration of British watchmaking with special editions and serious wrist spotting on display. Afternoon tea and biscuits not included.
Results for Retrograde Display
795 articles · 1 video found · page 9 of 27
Hodinkee
Monochrome
Introducing - New Editions of the MeisterSinger Pangaea with Textured Dials
While not the only brand to offer watches with a single-handed time display, MeisterSinger (since 2001) is the only one to have built its entire identity around this concept. Rooted in early watchmaking traditions, long before minutes and seconds dominated the dial, the brand’s approach prioritises perception over precision. A slower, more deliberate reading of […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G
Patek Philippe’s mastery of complications is evident at all levels. The brand’s ability to elevate even simple complications is on full display in the Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G, a smaller and more focused take on the alarm watch than the discontinued spider-like Alarm Travel Time 5520P from 2019. This puts the most refined alarm movement on the market in the popular hobnail-flanked Calatrava case, capped with punchy green and blue fumé dials. Initial thoughts Launched in 2019, Patek Philippe’s Alarm Travel Time ref. 5520 was a polarising design from the start, with the appearance of four crowns - three of which were actually screw-locked pushers - when combined with the four lugs giving the watch an octopoid appearance. Looks aside, it was Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch with an alarm, and introduced a refined new calibre. This year Patek Philippe builds on that foundation without the travel time functionality and streamlined looks, eliminating the appearance of an awkward double crown setting system. There is no actual change to the base movement’s functionality - save the deletion of the travel time module. Perhaps a decade ago this bright green dial, or even the blue, would feel out of place in a high-grade watch, but today it fits right into the brand’s extremely colourful and contemporary catalogue. Even so, the dial design is sure to be polarising, especially the conflict between the 12 o’clock marker and alarm indicator, which the latter s...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Ref. 5322G
Patek Philippe’s mastery of complications is evident at all levels. The brand’s ability to elevate even simple complications is on full display in the Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G, a smaller and more focused take on the alarm watch than the discontinued spider-like Alarm Travel Time 5520P from 2019. This puts the most refined alarm movement on the market in the popular hobnail-flanked Calatrava case, capped with punchy green and blue fumé dials. Initial thoughts Launched in 2019, Patek Philippe’s Alarm Travel Time ref. 5520 was a polarising design from the start, with the appearance of four crowns - three of which were actually screw-locked pushers - when combined with the four lugs giving the watch an octopoid appearance. Looks aside, it was Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch with an alarm, and introduced a refined new calibre. This year Patek Philippe builds on that foundation without the travel time functionality and streamlined looks, eliminating the appearance of an awkward double crown setting system. There is no actual change to the base movement’s functionality - save the deletion of the travel time module. Perhaps a decade ago this bright green dial, or even the blue, would feel out of place in a high-grade watch, but today it fits right into the brand’s extremely colourful and contemporary catalogue. Even so, the dial design is sure to be polarising, especially the conflict between the 12 o’clock marker and alarm indicator, which the latter s...
Monochrome
First Look - The New Reservoir Mark II Series, a Stronger Identity with Integrated Design
Reservoir was launched in 2017 and quickly became known as a watchmaking brand inspired by automotive gauges, aeronautical counters and industrial manometers. Reservoir built its identity around a simple yet visually interesting concept: displaying time through jumping hours and retrograde minutes, often with a power reserve indication. Until now, that instrument’s aesthetic influence has been […]
Hodinkee
Business News: Minerva Repositions In New Role As “Distinct Entity” Within Montblanc Brand
New watches will display the standalone Minerva name on the dial.
Monochrome
Introducing - Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jumping Date
Jaeger-LeCoultre revisits one of its most important contemporary tourbillon movements with the new Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jumping Date. While the underlying Calibre 978 is familiar to collectors, the latest iteration restructures the movement’s architecture. Featuring a partially openworked dial, the tourbillon, signature jumping date mechanism, and 24-hour display come to the fore. Paying homage […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in Steel
Last year, Roger Dubuis unveiled the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar, a revival of a signature biretrograde complication co-patented by founder Roger Dubuis and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (Agenhor) in 1989. Although this calendar version is simpler than the double retrograde QP the two men developed, it features the signature retrograde aesthetic intimately associated with Roger Dubuis. Following the […]
Monochrome
First Look - The New Titanium Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points
Since the third generation of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas arrived in 2016, the Maison has expanded the collection with everything from simple three-hand models to perpetual calendars and tourbillons. Yet for a watch originally designed with travel in mind, a basic second time zone display was missing. This was addressed in 2018 with the Overseas […]
Monochrome
First Look - The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric 30th-Anniversary Trilogy, with Hand-Hammered Dials
Master watchmaker and restorer Michel Parmigiani’s original Toric QP Rétrograde was Parmigiani Fleurier’s foundational watch marking the brand’s launch in 1996. Following the appointment of Guido Terreni in 2021, many of Michel Parmigiani’s models were put on standby to allow Terreni to chart the brand’s new design direction, with a primary focus on the Tonda […]
SJX Watches
Tudor Ascends the Throne with the Monarch
Tudor celebrates 100 years with the surprising Monarch. Historically one of the more obscure models in the brand’s catalogue, the earlier generation of Monarch was retired in the early 2000s. Now the name makes its return, but in an entirely different form, with the latest iteration bearing an unexpected emphasis on movement finishing and quality – with a display back that shows off Tudor’s first-ever decorated in-house movement. Initial Thoughts It is no secret that Tudor had its fair share of hit and misses in terms of design, especially during the 1990s. The original Monarch arguably fell into the latter category as an unfortunate blend of sporty and elegant design elements, which resulted in a rather unappealing and mostly forgotten product. The new Monarch, on the other hand, has almost nothing to do with his ancestor, save for the name. The new timepiece reimagines the beloved if quirky California dial, improves greatly in terms of movement finishing and manages to blend well both classy and sporty elements. At first sight one might be tempted to assume the Monarch is a dress timepiece, but elements like the metal link bracelet, angular overall profile and screw-down crown give it a sporty, rugged edge. Tudor made an interesting choice with the dial colour, going for a brushed sand-hued piece paired with black applied indices. The California configuration paired with the small seconds at six o’clock is dressy, but the angular case makes for a thoroug...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Nomos Glashütte Tangente Neomatik 38 Update
A subtle release from the brand downsizes its unique ring date display.
SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Debuts Biretrograde Calendar in Steel
Following the introduction of the same model (sans bracelet) in 18k pink gold last year, the new ‘cosmic blue’ variant of the Roger Dubuis (RD) Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar offers the brand’s signature retrograde day and date complication in a more accessible stainless steel package. Initial thoughts As a maker of big, bold, avant-garde watches, RD has found itself out of step with mainstream collector culture, which lately has favoured smaller, more elegant designs. The brand seems to understand the implications of these latent trends, and just last year introduced the Hommage La Placide, which was widely praised. The new 40 mm Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar is another step in the right direction, bridging the gap between RD’s more flamboyant instincts and contemporary collector preferences. In this context, the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar is clearly a watch designed to resonate more widely - the 40 mm stainless steel case paired with a blue dial is a commercially popular and almost universally appealing configuration. It works in part because the striking Excalibur design and unmistakeable biretrograde day and date functionality keep it from looking too much like anything else. The stainless steel bracelet is also noteworthy. It’s not the first time the brand has offered a steel bracelet - and it has produced this same design in titanium in the past as well - but it might as well be new since the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar will probably appea...
Monochrome
First Look - The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar
Last year, Roger Dubuis released a nostalgic watch that paid homage to Mr Dubuis, the brand’s talented watchmaker and founder. Using a restored and remanufactured RD72 bi-retrograde perpetual calendar module (launched in 1999) combined with the automatic RD14 base calibre, the Hommage La Placide was presented in a compact and classically styled 38mm gold case, […]
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders: Roger Dubuis Debuts an All-New Perpetual Calendar Caliber Alongside a Sporty Version of its Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar
Roger Dubuis’ latest releases at Watches and Wonders are steeped in the brand’s history. For the occasion, the maison introduces two complicated pieces – a perpetual calendar and day-date calendar – each in the brand’s patented biretrograde display. Prior to founding his namesake maison, Mr. Roger Dubuis was a prolific watchmaker for several brands, from Patek Philippe to Longines. One such project came in 1989 when he and fellow watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht collaboratively pioneered and patented their famous biretrograde display, which reworked the traditional concept and made it more streamlined. This approach eased assembly and improved the stability and readability of the hands on the ecliptic retrograde counters. Soon after, the pair engineered a double retrograde perpetual calendar module, which was notably used in a timepiece for Harry Winston. A year after the brand’s official founding, Roger Dubuis introduced its own biretrograde display timepiece and later the perpetual calendar complication in its iconic Sympathie and Homage collections. Today, we see the next evolution of these concepts highlighted in a rather modestly sized 40mm version of its Excalibur line. The Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar is notably powered by an entirely new movement: the RD850. Here, the maison builds upon the work set forth four decades ago with a self-winding caliber built from 435 components in-house at Roger Dubuis’ Geneva manufacture. A key functional i...
Fratello
Patek Philippe Introduces The Reference 6105G-001 Celestial Sunrise And Sunset
At Watches and Wonders 2026, Patek Philippe expands its astronomical watchmaking with the Celestial ref. 6105G-001. The new model builds on the existing Celestial line, which has long focused on representing the night sky through a rotating sky chart and lunar indications. This latest reference adds a new complication to the series with a display […] Visit Patek Philippe Introduces The Reference 6105G-001 Celestial Sunrise And Sunset to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The new, Surprisingly Modern Patek Philippe Celestial 6105G
On the occasion of Watches and Wonders 2026, Patek Philippe unveils a new astronomical complication with the reference 6105G-001, standing out with its surprisingly modern design. Derived from the Celestial, it features a multi-layered dial with several stacked discs that rotate independently to display the night sky with the apparent movement of the stars as […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The Sculptural Appeal of the New Hautlence Kubera Series 1
Hautlence, the contemporary, independent Swiss watchmaking brand, has made its mark with unconventional time displays. Founded in Neuchâtel in 2004, it quickly stood out for turning time into a more theatrical experience, with the HL01 setting the tone through jumping hours and retrograde minutes. Returning to Watches & Wonders this year, Hautlence unveils a brand […]
Monochrome
First Look - The Mesmerizing New Versions of the Henri Grandjean Magician
At the start of the year, an illustrious historic name returned to the world of watchmaking: Henri Grandjean. Once renowned for its highly precise chronometers and intricate pocket watches, Henri Grandjean was a master watchmaker from Le Locle, Switzerland. His work is on display in some of the best watchmaking museums around the world, including […]
Hodinkee
Gatherings: Vacheron Constantin Unveils Excellence With New Miami Boutique Celebration
Art Deco and high horology were on full display at our opening event in the Design District.
Fratello
Introducing: The Chronoswiss Delphis Art Deco - A Jump-Hour Watch From And For The Roaring Twenties
You’ve seen the combination of a jumping hour with sweeping retrograde minutes and a sub-seconds register before. The Delphis is, after all, one of Chronoswiss’s more recognizable creations. The dial layout is dominant but also open to different designs. At Chronoswiss HQ in Lucerne, the design team drew inspiration from the Art Deco movement that […] Visit Introducing: The Chronoswiss Delphis Art Deco - A Jump-Hour Watch From And For The Roaring Twenties to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Urwerk UR-101 Diamond Sky Edition
The UR-101 is the watch that started it all for indie brand Urwerk. First introduced in 1997 alongside the UR-102, it laid the groundwork for the brand’s signature wandering hours display and its radical approach to time indication. After recently bringing the UR-101 back into the collection with a bold, textured T-Rex edition, Urwerk moves […]
Monochrome
Introducing - Chinese Indie Watchmaker Qian GuoBiao Presents the new AB-05 Skylight Series
Over the past few years, Qian GuoBiao, an independent watchmaker working in Dongguan, China, known as “the tourbillon doctor“, has established a quite disciplined design language, shaped by his background in the restoration and application of traditional hand-finishing. His earlier watches focused on clarity, proportion and the display of mechanics, incorporating visible balances without resorting […]
Monochrome
Introducing - New Editions of the Union Glashütte Averin Chronograph
Square chronographs are rare, and inevitably, any watch in this category gets compared with the iconic TAG Heuer Monaco. Since its debut in 2008, the Averin Chronograph by Union Glashütte has occupied similar territory, combining a bold, geometric case with a sporty chronograph display. Earlier versions looked to form their own identity and relied on […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Hautlence Sphere Series 4
Since its recent revival under the MELB Group (owner of Moser and Agenhor too), Hautlence has focused on unconventional time displays with mechanical animation rather than traditional indications. The Sphere, first introduced in 2022, quickly became the brand’s signature series, combining a multi-axis spherical jumping hour with a retrograde minute. The new Sphere Series 4 […]
SJX Watches
A Fresh Palette for the Breguet Tradition
Breguet refreshes its Tradition collection for 2026 with new colourways and expanded grand feu enamel dial options across five references, building on the momentum of the brand’s 250th anniversary year. The line-up spans four automatic variants of the Seconde Rétrograde and one manually wound GMT, all underpinned by the architecturally distinctive cal. 505 that has defined the collection since its 2005 introduction. Initial thoughts Inspired by an original Abraham-Louis Breguet’s montres à tact pocket watch from the late 18th century, the Tradition collection, released in 2005, was Breguet’s first major new model family under Swatch Group management. The central barrel placement and unusual gear train arrangement perfectly captures the essence of the original pocket watches, and this aspect of the design remains as recognisable and distinctive as ever, despite the a growing number of independent watchmakers that have introduced watches with a similar layout. In fact, the cal. 505 is so successful as a contemporary interpretation of Breguet’s work that a variation of it was adapted for use in the award-winning Classique Souscription 2025 introduced last year. For 2026, the Tradition collection has been slightly refreshed with modern colourways and more grand feu enamel dial options. The five new models include four automatic variants of the Seconde Rétrograde, one of which features a diamond-set bezel, and one manually wound reference with a dual-time complicatio...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Mr Jones Beam Me Up! Review: A Different Kind of Mechanical Watch
A hands-on review of the Mr Jones Beam Me Up! mechanical, exploring its playful dial, unconventional time display, and more.
Deployant
New: Breva “Segreto di Lario” Meridian Gold
Breva releases a new version of their triple retrograde movement with the Meridian Gold, a reference with a matte powder-gold dial.
Fratello
Hands-On With The Surprisingly Creative Nordic Marine Instruments Lunør
One of the most intriguing natural phenomena is the aurora borealis, also known as the northern lights. Witnessing this display of colors in the sky is on the bucket lists of many travel lovers. I haven’t seen the spectacular green, red, and purple night skies, but I know from friends that they are mesmerizing. The […] Visit Hands-On With The Surprisingly Creative Nordic Marine Instruments Lunør to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Visodate Automatic Review
Tissot traces its long history back to 1853, when it was founded in Switzerland’s Jura Mountains by the father-son watchmaking team of Charles-Félicien and Charles-Émile Tissot. Today part of the Swatch Group, Tissot can lay claim to several watchmaking milestones throughout its history, including the first pocket watch to display two time zones in 1853; the first watch built to resist magnetism, the Antimagnetique, in 1930; and the first tactile-screen multifunction digital watch, the T-Touch, in 1999, years before the smartwatch would come into existence. Today, Tissot markets more than 4 million watches per year to more than 160 countries and is known for producing what its parent group terms “midrange market” watches that are prized for their price-to-value ratio. Tissot’s 1950s-era Visodate was among the first fleet of watches to introduce an integrated date complication, but the line’s contemporary renditions have continuously flown under the radar within the enthusiast community – until today, that is. New for 2026, the brand has given the collection a complete overhaul, revamping the Visodate to be more everyday-carry friendly than ever without sacrificing its quintessential retro flair. [toc-section heading="History And Context"] Vintage 1950s Tissot Visodate Advertisement The original Tissot Visodate hit shelves in 1953, marking 100 years since Tissot’s founding. It was not the first wristwatch with a date display in a window - that woul...