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Squale Gallery Squale

Wristshot gallery from the Horlogeforum Squale thread.

Hands On: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 ‘Jubilee’ Dial SJX Watches
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 ‘Jubilee’ Apr 28, 2026

Hands On: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 ‘Jubilee’ Dial

Marking the centenary of its signature Oyster case, Rolex has introduced a new polychrome ‘Jubilee’ dial for the Oyster Perpetual 36. An appealing new variant of a tangibly excellent product, the Jubilee dial will likely appeal to both experienced Rolex collectors as well as those who have historically found the brand’s designs too sedate. Initial thoughts Rolex is a brand that takes itself seriously. At times, the brand’s product development cycle seems to move at a glacial pace, but this is part of the discipline that has made Rolex the most successful maker of luxury watches by some margin — collectors have learned they can trust Rolex to keep a good thing going. So when the brand decides to have a little fun, it’s almost shocking. The brightly coloured Jubilee dial motif — built up of 10 layers of coloured lacquer — is certainly fun, and reminiscent of the ‘Celebration’ dial launched in 2023 in both 36 mm and 41 mm sizes. The Jubilee model pictured is the 36 mm size, but the design is also available in 41 mm (ref. 134300) and 31 mm (ref. 277200). The ‘Celebration’ dial was launched in 2023 in both 41 mm (left) and 36 mm sizes. The Oyster Perpetual 36 case keeps its nearly ideal proportions — small and sleek enough to disappear under a shirt cuff but chunky enough to hold its own with short sleeves. Substantively, it could make a proverbial ‘one-watch collection’ but given its exuberant dial will probably appeal most to seasoned collectors...

Patek Philippe’s Celestial Ref. 6105G Blasts Off SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s Celestial Ref 6105G Apr 14, 2026

Patek Philippe’s Celestial Ref. 6105G Blasts Off

Patek Philippe updates its star chart “Grand Complication” for the third time with the Celestial Sunrise Sunset Ref. 6105G. The ref. 6105G adds the time of sunrise and sunset – cleverly integrated into the date scale – and a daring new design with a formidable, space-age lug-less case in white gold that’s 47 mm across. The ref. 6105G also introduces a novel way to account for the transition between summer and winter time, adding a corrector that shifts the sunrise and sunset scales, solving a significant shortcoming of astronomical watches for users in Europe and the Americas. Initial thoughts I’ve long thought that Patek Philippe’s greatest strength, other than its massive industrial investments, was its remarkable design diversity. Today brands seem to pursue a unified design language across all of their watches. And while this result is a strong visual identity for the brand, it is extremely limiting. Patek Philippe has no such limits, and the brand has about two dozen different case styles in the current collection, and hundreds in its back catalog. While this leads to its fair share of design misses, at least to my sensibilities, it can also lead to striking successes. I’m sure many will disagree, but I see the new Celestial as the latter. A wristwatch with the time of sunrise and sunset is long overdue from Patek Philippe, and this watch adds the ability to adjust those indications to account for daylight savings time. This addresses the complication...

Just Because – Your Complete Guide to Watches and Wonders 2026, And Everything Happening During The Geneva Watch Week Monochrome
Mar 28, 2026

Just Because – Your Complete Guide to Watches and Wonders 2026, And Everything Happening During The Geneva Watch Week

Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026 and the Geneva Watch Week are fast approaching, so it’s the perfect time to start planning your trip. Here’s an overview of what awaits you, whether you’re visiting Geneva for a week of work, fun, or simply a celebration of watches. The event continues to expand in scale and importance along with […]

Studio Underd0g Establishes The D0ghouse, Its New British Watchmaking Facility Fratello
Studio Underd0g Feb 9, 2026

Studio Underd0g Establishes The D0ghouse, Its New British Watchmaking Facility

Studio Underd0g is one of the most refreshing success stories in modern watchmaking. What began as a plucky one‑man operation creating distinctive, cuisine‑themed watches has grown into a full‑blown enterprise producing more than 14,000 watches per year - and still growing. Even with Chinese‑sourced Seagull ST‑1901 calibers powering the popular 01Series and Swiss movements used […] Visit Studio Underd0g Establishes The D0ghouse, Its New British Watchmaking Facility to read the full article.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Neo Frame Jumping Hour Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Introduces Feb 5, 2026

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Neo Frame Jumping Hour

I have what you might call a love/hate relationship with Audemars Piguet. They are, without a doubt, makers of some of the finest watches in the world. Objectively speaking, there’s a level of craft involved with the production of AP watches that is hard to match at the scale at which they operate. Every Royal Oak I’ve ever handled feels like a perfectly made thing without any compromises. I honestly can’t say the same about equivalent watches from other brands in the so-called Holy Trinity.  And yet, there’s so much baggage with Audemars Piguet in our current watch culture. I wrote about it here, specifically as it relates to the Royal Oak and how it has become a signifier of wealth and status that has overshadowed watchmaking and watch culture. I find this flex culture to be a huge turn off, and the way AP seems to lean into it, by producing more and more varieties of Royal Oak, some with mini sculptures of Marvel characters on the dial, to be a signal that they’re a willing participant in the watering down of their brand.  But then Audemars Piguet will go ahead and release something beautiful that is not a Royal Oak and I’m reminded that derisively referring to them as The Royal Oak Company (something I’ve done frequently over these last few years) is ultimately unfair. Earlier this week, as part of a larger drop that included several exotic Royal Oaks, a pocket watch, and more, AP launched what might be one of the riskier watches they’ve introduced in...

Introducing: Two New Hermès Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune Watches In Titanium And Platinum Fratello
Hermes Feb 2, 2026

Introducing: Two New Hermès Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune Watches In Titanium And Platinum

Hermès expands the Squelette Lune range with two new titanium and platinum models displaying the lunar cycle as seen from both the Northern and Southern Hemispheres. The earlier Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune combined a 39.5mm bead‑blasted Grade 5 titanium case with a polished platinum bezel. The new releases, however, take this concept further. One watch […] Visit Introducing: Two New Hermès Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune Watches In Titanium And Platinum to read the full article.

Patek Philippe’s Grand Exhibition Returns to Europe in Milan SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s Grand Exhibition Returns Dec 15, 2025

Patek Philippe’s Grand Exhibition Returns to Europe in Milan

Patek Philippe has just revealed details about the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milan 2026, which is set to take place in October 2026. The event marks the seventh edition of the brand’s large-scale public exhibition series, and its return to Europe following the most recent instalments in Tokyo, Singapore, and New York. The biggest yet With a display area covering 2,540 square metres, the exhibition will be the largest Watch Art event organised by Patek Philippe to date. As with previous events in the series, the exhibit will feature immersive replicas of the brand’s Salon on Geneva’s Rue du Rhône, the manufacture at Plan-les-Ouates, and the Patek Philippe Museum, all constructed under the dome of the Palazzo delle Scintille, now known as CityOval. For a taste of what’s in store, the Patek Philipe website still hosts an immersive experience of the 2022 edition in Tokyo. The exhibition will showcase the brand’s entire current collection, alongside a dedicated Rare Handcrafts selection comprising dome clocks, pocket watches, and wristwatches, with around 500 pieces in total on display. Artisans will also be on hand to demonstrate techniques like miniature enamel painting, cloisonné enamel, hand engraving, wood marquetry, guilloché, and gem-setting. As is customary for Watch Art exhibitions, the Milan event will see the launch of several limited-edition watches across different segments of the collection. The 2023 Tokyo exhibition, for instance, included a Rare Ha...

Complicated Collectors: James Ward Packard SJX Watches
Patek Philippe had just completed movement Dec 9, 2025

Complicated Collectors: James Ward Packard

On 27 April 1927 a nurse walked into a room at the Cleveland Clinic carrying a leather case. The patient was sixty-four, a section of skull removed, the ache of radiation still working behind his eyes. On the charts he appeared as James Ward Packard, co-founder of Packard Electric and Packard Motor Car Company. To the nurse he was a difficult case. To Geneva he remained the client for whom Patek Philippe had just completed movement number 198’023, an astronomical watch that had absorbed three years of calculation and bench work. James Ward Packard. Image – Lehigh University Photograph Collection Inside the case lay a carillon minute repeater on three gongs, coupled to a full perpetual calendar with moon phase, equation of time, and sunrise and sunset indications calculated for Warren, Ohio. On the reverse, a deep blue sky disk carried five hundred and twelve gold stars, turning at sidereal speed around a small Polaris. The sky above his birthplace had been compressed into a circle of lapis and gold, moving in his hands as it moved above the town where he had been born, built factories, endowed an engineering laboratory, and which he now understood lay beyond any realistic hope of return. Consolation held little appeal for him. Packard placed his trust in precision, in the ability to describe a situation so exactly that it became bearable. The watch answered a question he had circled since childhood: if the world always exceeds your grasp, can you still know, to the min...

Introducing – The Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Black Titanium Chronometer LE Monochrome
Nov 28, 2025

Introducing – The Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Black Titanium Chronometer LE

Independent and proudly small-scale, Brellum thrives carving its niche in modern Swiss watchmaking. Founded by fourth-generation watchmaker Sébastien Muller, the brand produces only 299 pieces per year, each officially COSC-certified, meticulously decorated, and sold directly to end consumers. Following the recent release of the Pandial Power Reserve Chronometer LE in steel, Brellum now offers a […]

Editorial: Reflections on Dubai Watch Week 2025 SJX Watches
Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour Nov 28, 2025

Editorial: Reflections on Dubai Watch Week 2025

Dubai Watch Week (DWW) returned for its seventh edition with a scale and ambition that surpassed every prior year. Staged in Burj Park under the shadow of the Burj Khalifa, the fair brought together 90 brands - roughly 60% more than the last edition in 2023 - and welcomed a remarkable 49,000 visitors over five days, up from just 23,000 two years ago. It was a week of new launches, discussion, and serendipitous encounters, all set against the backdrop of a temporary venue built in just six weeks but executed with the polish of a world-class exhibition. The mood was upbeat. Despite a challenging market environment, the energy at DWW suggested a resilient, forward-looking industry. Notable figures attended, including Dubai’s ruler His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum and Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour, further signalling the fair’s growing stature under the leadership of the event’s chief executive, Hind Seddiqi. This year’s event was held in Burj Park, which contributed to the jubilant atmosphere. Image – Dubai Watch Week Initial thoughts Rome wasn’t built in a day, but the impressive DWW venue was erected in just six weeks. The new Burj Park setting transformed a simple strip of waterfront into a miniature city, complete with large air-conditioned structures, full-service restaurants, and a visual identity befitting a major fair. Step outside at night and you were greeted with the laser shows of the Burj Khalifa reflected across t...

Introducing – Audemars Piguet Unveils an Innovative Setting Device for its RO Perpetual Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Unveils Nov 19, 2025

Introducing – Audemars Piguet Unveils an Innovative Setting Device for its RO Perpetual

Perpetual calendars are one of the most fascinating and elegant complications. Their sophisticated mechanism automatically adjusts the date throughout the year, accounting for the varying lengths of months and the leap year cycle, eliminating the need for manual correction. Yet one challenge is that if your watch stops, resetting it can be complicated, often requiring […]

Micro-Brand Fair Spring Sprang Sprung Returns to Singapore SJX Watches
Nivada Grenchen Nov 4, 2025

Micro-Brand Fair Spring Sprang Sprung Returns to Singapore

Now taking place for the fifth year, Spring Sprang Sprung (SPRG) is a watch fair dedicated to micro-brands that is returning in November 2025. The Singapore-based event has grown from 22 brands in its first year to over 50 this year. The exhibitor list this year includes brands from Finland to China, as well as names that are arguably more established than the average micro-brand, like Oris, Nivada Grenchen, and Seagull. Also exhibiting are accessories makers, like Yi Leather that makes watch straps. As with past iterations of SPRG, the event includes workshops, one of which is a leather working class led by the proprietor of Yi Leather. SPRG’s founders are a pair integral to the micro-brand scene in Singapore: Sugiharto Kusumadi, who was a pioneering retailer of micro-brands when he founded Red Army Watches in 2004, and Yong Keong Lim, who owns Feynman Timekeepers and runs retailer BIG Time. According to its founders, SPRG aims to be “casual, welcoming, and inclusive… [bringing] together independent watch brand owners, enthusiasts, and newcomers to share their passion for horology”. SPRG takes place at the at the National Design Centre, November 8-9, 2025, from 11 am-7 pm. National Design Centre 111 Middle Road Singapore 188969 The event is open to the public, but workshops are ticketed with tickets available at Spring-sprang-sprung.com.  

J.P. Morgan Jr.’s Watches Emerge, Including First-Ever Cartier Mystery Clock SJX Watches
Cartier Mystery Clock Philips’ upcoming Nov 4, 2025

J.P. Morgan Jr.’s Watches Emerge, Including First-Ever Cartier Mystery Clock

Philips’ upcoming sale in Geneva from November 8-9 includes two timepieces owned by John Pierpont Morgan Jr., widely known as Jack Morgan. Heir to a financial empire, Morgan was the first chairman of what is now JPMorganChase, and more pertinently, inherited the sensibilities of his father, J. Pierpont Morgan Sr., in collecting and gifting. Morgan Sr. was a collector on a grand scale, and across categories. The catalogues of his collections spanned volumes – two books for Chinese porcelain, four for miniatures, and a single volume for his watches and clocks, albeit a 350-page tome that weighed almost 6 kg in its original edition. The penchant for collecting was passed on to Jack Morgan, who evidently had sharp tastes in watches and clocks. The two timepieces going on the block at Phillips illustrate that. One is the first-ever Cartier mystery clock, a Model A sold to Morgan in 1913. And the other is one example of the “Morgan caliper”,  a series of minute repeating, split-second chronograph, tourbillon pocket watches made for J.P. Morgan & Co., which were gifted by Morgan Sr. and Jack Morgan to the firm’s partners and important associates. Titans of finance In 1913, Louisiana senator Arsène Pujo formed the Pujo Committee to investigate the growing concentration of financial power in the United States. The committee found that an inner circle of partners at J.P. Morgan & Co. and its two largest proxies held 341 directorship positions across the boards of 34 majo...

Introducing – India’s First Wandering Hours Timepiece, the Titan Stellar 3.0 and its Crystallized Titanium Case Monochrome
Titan Oct 20, 2025

Introducing – India’s First Wandering Hours Timepiece, the Titan Stellar 3.0 and its Crystallized Titanium Case

Our visit earlier this year to India’s prime watchmaking company, Titan, was a genuine eye-opening experience. Besides witnessing the impressive scale of production (it is immense, and a whole different level than Swiss watchmaking), we also discovered that the industry giant had some unexpected horological capacities. Titan, to celebrate its 40th anniversary, unveiled India’s first […]