301 articles · 6 videos found · page 9 of 11
Louis Cartier's 1917 rectangular design, inspired by the Renault FT tank.
22 × 29.5 mm × 6.6 mm, lug 16 mm, Quartz
25.5 × 33.7 mm × 6.6 mm, lug 18 mm, Cal. 1917 MC
29.5 × 39.2 mm × 7.2 mm, lug 20 mm, Cal. 1917 MC
Monochrome
While it might not come across as a particularly high-brow mechanical complication, the power reserve indicator is extremely useful. The equivalent of a petrol gauge on a watch, a power reserve indicator lets you know how much tension is left in the mainspring or, in simple terms, how much fuel is left in the tank. […]
Time+Tide
For Geneva Watch Days 2023, Alpina has released two regular -production tribute versions of the tank-style Alpiner The Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years offers vintage looks with modern appointments Two dial variants are available: two-tone silver (US and international), and black (international only) For Geneva Watch Days, Alpina is looking back with the release … ContinuedThe post The Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years brings back classic contours in a modern package appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
I have a soft spot for asymmetrical cases. Whether it’s my trusty Speedmaster or my own personal resin-cased Marathon Navigator, something about the offset case shape just hits different. Today, I’m excited to take a look at one of Marathon’s newest offerings - the Navigator in stainless steel. Upon trying it on for the first time, it just immediately clicked. This watch feels like it was made to be rendered in the matte stainless steel. This Canadian-designed and Swiss-manufactured watch is part of a solid lineup of MIL SPEC watches that are built to withstand the toughest conditions. Originally designed for paratroopers, pilots, and law enforcement, the Navigator is a no-frills watch that’s built like a tank. One of the best parts about it is how it wears, it wears deceptively small for its measured size due to the handsome asymmetrical case. Let’s take a closer look at this tough offering from Marathon that I believe makes an excellent everyday watch. We’ll also be making some comparisons between the stainless steel version and the original resin case. But first, let’s get a brief history lesson on this MIL SPEC watch and how it came to be. The military specification “MIL-W-46374” is used by the US military to address their specific needs for wrist watches. Originally developed in 1964 during the Vietnam War, this spec has undergone several different revisions, currently sitting at Rev. G, which it’s remained at since 1999. The original spec lack...
Deployant
Discover the exquisite world of Cartier luxury watches, including iconic collections like the Cartier Tank and Cartier Santos. Explore the artistry, craftsmanship, and timeless elegance of these Swiss timepieces, crafted by one of the most prestigious heritage brands in the industry. Delve into the historical significance and innovative designs that have made Cartier a symbol of luxury and sophistication.
SJX Watches
Because it was the world’s biggest watch brands showing off their latest products at Watches & Wonders (W&W;), surprises seemed unlikely. Yet there were a few surprises at the fair, with several coming from the most conservative brand of all, Rolex, which debuted the now infamous “Bubbles” and “Puzzle”. But the unexpected aside, the fair also saw a number of well-executed new models that were just right, most notably from Cartier, which stuck to what it does well. The Tank Normale in yellow gold with a matching bracelet Surprises A surprise launch, but certainly not unexpected as a highlight, is the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time ref. 5224R. Although it appears to be a typical Calatrava at a distance, the ref. 5224R is elegantly different. For one, it is surprisingly large for a Calatrava at 42 mm but typically thin at under 9 mm. The ref. 5224R More unusual is the 24-hour display that is a convenient and smart method of showing two time zones without the need for a day and night indicator. But as is often the case with Patek Philippe, the novelty of the watch was not invented. Its key features, namely the time display and case size, are rooted in history – the watch is modelled on the oversized Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches of the early 20th century. But at over US$57,000, the ref. 5224R is unusually expensive for a two-time zone watch, though that is explained in part by the high-end movement inside that’s shared with the top-of-t...
Hodinkee
A teeny tiny Baignore, Panthère, and Tank Américaine.
Hodinkee
While the size has been modernized, this new Normale is the purest essence of Tank design.
Revolution
Cartier CEO Cyrille Vigneron divulges to Revolution Founder Wei Koh how he grew Cartier into one of the highest grossing luxury brands in the world. This year at Watches and Wonders 2023, the maison has unveiled an emphatic array of new watches, including new Tank Louis Cartier, Tank Normale, Tank Américaine, Santos, Santos-Dumont, skeletonized Santos-Dumont, […]
Revolution
Eleonor Picciotto, Editor-at-Large of Revolution, and Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution, introduce ravishing Cartier novelties, including the Tank Normale, Tank Américaine and Baignoire. Under the astute leadership of Cyrille Vigneron, Cartier has cemented its status as the maison with the most recognizable and sought-after case shapes. At Watches and Wonders 2023, Eleonor and Wei got […]
Revolution
Revolution Editor-at-large Eleonor Picciotto introduces new novelties that Cartier presented at Watches and Wonders 2023. This year’s novelties include Tank Françaises, Tank Louis Cartiers, Cartier Tank Américane, Tank Normale and several beautiful Cartier Clash jewelry pieces. Stay tuned because we’ll be back to show you more Cartier timepieces.
![Cartier Introduces the Clash [Un]limited](https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Cartier-Clash-Unlimited-watch-3.jpg)
SJX Watches
Cartier’s best known watches are often symmetrical and formal, think Tank or Santos, but also animal inspired, most notably the Panthère. But its latest suite of ladies’ watches is unconventional in its mix of forms and finishes. Inspired by the jewellery collection of the same name, the Clash [Un]limited is edgy, modern, and different from the brand’s usual offerings. Initial thoughts While I can’t profess to be an expert in ladies’ watches, the Clash is both an interesting and appealing design to my eye. It is an intriguing mix of design elements that might seem ill-matched on their face but somehow work well together. So the dial and facetted crystal are obvious retro, but they go well with the studs and balls of the bracelet; the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. At the same time, the edgy styling of the Clash doesn’t feel like Cartier, which has a predominantly classical or Art Deco house style. In fact, the Clash seems like something from a brand more associated with streetwear, like Louis Vuitton for instance. That said, the colourful variant of the Clash does evoke Cartier’s signature Tutti Fruitti jewellery. Chic yet eccentric Launched in 2019, Clash de Cartier was perhaps Cartier’s first collection of jewellery with a distinct streetwear aesthetic, one heavy on studs and spikes. According to Cartier, however, Clash took inspiration from the work of Jeanne Toussaint (1887-1976), the brand’s longtime artistic director who favoured...
Worn & Wound
Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Thor R. isn’t afraid to get away from the well beaten path. These watches offer a unique perspective on collecting, and come to the conclusion that you can indeed find a healthy variety within the confines of a similar genres. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. I appreciate high quality, but I also value understated style. My collection is striking, but not gaudy or too blingy. I don’t get many compliments or comments, but when I do, they’re always from “watch people” , not fashionistas. Looking to add one more big boy later in life, but for now, this is great. Bear in mind, these were all purchased north of the 49th parallel at either the manufacturer or the closest AD, so I’m guessing/converting to USD. Sinn U1 ds – $2,300 Always loved the face, and the grind dial aspect with grey and white colouring spoke to me. I have # 440/500. This is my primary EDC as it’s easy to read, looks great with everything, and is highly trustworthy. Like me, it’s ugly yet effective. Marathon Red maple leaf JSAR – $1,200 I love the true tactical vibe of this watch. As you can tell, I like big heavy watches, and watches that are legitimately used for purpose. As a Canadian, it’s also nice to support a Canadian company that produces great quality, highly durable timepieces. This thing is a tank, and survived a nasty fall down a fl...
Hodinkee
Read on for the week in drops, watch news, and Hodinkee editors in tank tops.
Time+Tide
No matter how tasteful your watch collection, no matter how stuffed your portfolio is with blue chip stocks like no-date Subs, pre-Moon Speedys, or the perfect Cartier Tank, there’s probably a black sheep lurking somewhere. Your questionable choices. Your dark secrets. The one that’s horribly out of fashion, objectively unattractive, or just plain bizarre. Be … ContinuedThe post Unholy Grail: Why the comically dated TAG Heuer S/el is a true guilty pleasure appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Sure, Cartier designers are known for more angular watches like the Tank and Santos, but could their more daring option be a traditional round watch?
Time+Tide
Let’s not beat around the bush. If you’ve spent any time lusting over releases from Jaeger-LeCoultre, chances are that you’ve fallen in love with a few different versions of the Reverso Duoface. Similarly, if you’ve been following Cartier’s releases, the colourful additions to the Tank Must revival have had watch enthusiasts absolutely smitten from the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Vario Versa is two-faced in the best possible way appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Launched to mark 50 years since the original was created by the jeweller’s London workshop, the Cartier Pebble was also perfectly timed to ride the wave of interest in vintage Cartier form watches that began during the pandemic. Looking much like the original but with enough tweaks to set it apart as a modern timepiece, the Pebble reissue is the second commemorative reissue after the Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary from two years ago. With only six large-size Pebbles made by Cartier London in the 1970s, the original Pebble was long a peculiar watch known only to a few Cartier aficionados. The reissue has changed that, but it is a limited edition of only 150 pieces, a small enough number that it will leave some would-be buyers disappointed. Initial thoughts A hair’s larger than the vintage original, the reissue is a smallish watch by modern standards at 36 mm in diameter but feels larger than that due to the form. In fact, 36 mm is probably the largest it can go without changing the shape; any larger and it will resemble a dinner plate. On the wrist it cuts a striking figure and unlike other vintage remakes, the new Pebble might pass for a modern watch thanks to its novel form. Minor adjustment have been made to the design of the reissue that give it a more refined appearance than the original. The Roman numerals, for instance, have tighter lines. The result is a watch that looks thoughtfully designed. Everything about the reissue is executed well, case to dial to cr...
Time+Tide
The prices of luxury watches make collecting an expensive hobby. But the cost of these objects also have potential to help charitable causes as a result. Whenever I talk to high-end collectors – men like Kevin O’Leary from Shark Tank, for example – what they really want are things that are one of a kind. … ContinuedThe post Zenith and AFL superstar Buddy Franklin deliver a Defy Extreme watch for a very good cause appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Widely anticipated due to inadvertent appearances on social media, the Cartier Pebble has now been officially announced, continuing the jeweller’s strong of vintage reissues like the Tank Cintree 150th Anniversary of 2020. Formally known as the Pebble-Shaped Watch, the reissue is a limited edition of 150 pieces to mark 50 years since the original, which was conceived by Cartier London a few years after the Crash. While not as famous as the Dali-esque sibling, the Pebble is a simple yet distinctive design in the best tradition of Cartier – a square dial rotated 45 degrees from the horizontal within a perfectly round case. Initial thoughts Although not especially well known before last year’s record auction result for a vintage example, the Pebble is an easily recognisable design. At 36 mm it’s modest in size by modern standards, but stands out with its clean lines and peculiar but pleasing shape. The remake smartly sticks closely to the original, so much so that they will be almost identical at a distance. For fans of Cartier’s classic and quirky style, the Pebble reissue is appealing – albeit at a steep price. The Pebble is twice as expensive as the Santos-Dumont lacquered case in gold that has the same movement, and 50% pricier than the Tank Cintree 150th that has an arguably finer, thinner calibre. The Pebble is a winner in terms of execution but the price is difficult to stomach. Sometimes known as the “baseball” The Pebble belongs to the group of oddl...
Time+Tide
In a sceptical marketplace, collaborations and partnerships can sometimes be met with hesitancy. Not every tie-in is created equal. Is it a gimmick? A cash-grab? If the through-line is not there, if it does not feel genuine, then the release is often set to tank. But the proof is ultimately in the pudding. Last year, … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer debuts two Formula 1 x Mario Kart Limited Editions that fans will race to shell out for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Max Büsser and his cohorts at his horological think tank, MB&F;, have, without question, created a bewildering variety of watches over the years that have used horology as a jumping off point for the exploration of a highly idiosyncratic vocabulary of watchmaking, in which mechanics put themselves at the service of an aesthetics that freely mingles everything from pop culture to science fiction to sometimes alarming arachnomorphism, and beyond. However, what MB&F; thus far has largely not addressed itself to is the world of traditional complications – other than the tourbillon, used by MB&F; for its aesthetic impact, you will look in vain for anything beyond a simple calendar or a moonphase. Now, however, MB&F; and Büsser have gotten into the complications game in a big way: they’ve launched their own perpetual calendar, and, what’s more, they’ve done so with an in-house movement, with a variation on the perpetual calendar mechanism unlike anything we’ve seen so far.
Time+Tide
Big, bold and built like a tank. That’s the condensed version of the new Fortis Marinemaster M-44, which is a take on the best adventure watch possible by the brand from Grenchen. Normally lauded for their flights to the stratosphere and beyond, the Marinemaster is an under-the-radar choice from an already under-the-radar brand. From the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Fortis Marinemaster M-44 has no business being this underrated appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
While lesser known than wristwatches like the Tank and Crash, the mystery clock is as quintessentially Cartier as its wristwatch counterparts. Bonhams’ upcoming Hong Kong auction includes a prime example of the classic Cartier “Model A” mystery clock. The first type of mystery clock developed by Cartier, the Model A, made its debut in 1912 and the first example was sold to banker J. Pierpont Morgan. Compact but striking in its details and transparency, the Model A is essentially a block of rock crystal sitting on a mineral stone base with accents of gold, enamel, and diamonds. This example that will go on the block at Bonhams dates to 1928 and sits on an onyx base. The mystery clock, however, wasn’t invented at Cartier. Instead the clock with floating hands was conceived by Maurice Coüet, a clockmaker who was first a supplier to Cartier before joining the jeweller. Coüet in turn was inspired by the work of 19th century clockmaker-turned-magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, the inventor of the mystery clock concept. The Model A is a two-axis mystery clock with the driving pinions for the hands hidden in each column of the frame Notably, the Model A clock is being sold to benefit an Australian conservation non-profit, thanks to the late Antony Coote, a farmer and businessman whose family formerly controlled Angus & Coote, a storied name in Australian retail that was once the biggest jeweller in the country. After selling his family’s stake in 2006, Coote turn...
SJX Watches
Online-only watch auctioneer Loupe This has just announced a week of Cartier watches, with two watches being listed daily from April 25 to 29. The lineup is headlined by an original Crash made by Cartier London in 1969 that comes direct from the original owner no less. It has an appropriate hefty estimate of US$500,000-800,000. London Crash Some of the other highlights in the sale include a trio of white-metal Tanks, including a Tank Asymetrique in platinum, one of a hundred made in 1996. Estimated at US$30,000-50,000, it’s smaller than the recent Prive Tank Asymetrique, with dimensions comparable to the classic Tank LC, which is the next watch. Tank Asymétrique This is a rare variant of an otherwise common watch. Produced for several decades in a range of iterations, the Tank Louis Cartier, or “LC”, is commonly found in yellow gold, but less often in white gold, and rarely with a period-correct bracelet. Dating to the 1970s, this has an estimate of US$20,000-30,000. Tank LC Another Tank from the 1970s is this Tank Cintree “Jumbo”, also in white gold and once again with a matching gold bracelet. This is the largest size of arguably the most desirable Tank model, but made slightly more affordable by the fact that it was made in the 1970s instead of the first decades of the 20th century. The estimate is US$50,000-80,000. Tank Cintree The first pair go live on Monday, April 25, Los Angeles time (GMT-7), which will be April 26 for most of the world. You can see them...
Time+Tide
The Atelier Wen Perception is a phenomenal example of a brand owner with a specific vision who refused to cut a single corner in the execution of their watch. This year, Cartier released a new version of the Tank Chinoise that pays tribute to Chinese architecture. But that same sentiment means significantly more coming from … ContinuedThe post The Atelier Wen Perception is a masterclass of guilloché craftmanship appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Cartier Tank really needs no introduction, it is one of the few pieces that truly deserves icon status. But this year’s novelties from the Parisian powerhouse served up some worthy pieces that continue Cartier’s hot streak over the last couple of years. New additions to the Must and Pasha collections got Zach and Ricardo … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Cartier plays their greatest hits album along with a few new surprises… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Cartier’s wide-ranging new launches at Watches & Wonders 2022 naturally encompasses new takes on its historical designs, including the Tank Chinoise and lacquered Santos-Dumont. But its most extraordinary creation stands apart from the brand’s contemporary timepieces. The Masse Mystérieuse is essentially a floating movement within an oscillating weight. As the weight oscillates around the central axis of the dial, it winds the mainspring contained within itself. Initial thoughts Cartier abandoned its once ambitious push into highly complicated watches when its current chief executive Cyrille Vigneron took charge in 2016. Mr Vigneron has stated publicly on several occasions that Cartier should not stray from its historical strength in simple, elegant watches in unusual forms. So the Masse Mystérieuse is definitely atypical, but that doesn’t take away from its fascinating mechanics. The complexity and creativity of its mechanics bring to mind an earlier era of Cartier watchmaking. While Cartier states that the Masse Mystérieuse was eight years in the making, it doesn’t mention who was responsible for the idea. It goes without saying that is was Carole Forestier-Kasapi, the former head of development at Cartier’s manufacture who now has the same role at TAG Heuer. The Masse Mystérieuse is instantly recognisable as her work, appearing to be evolved from the Astrotourbillon. Ingenious as it is, the Masse Mystérieuse is also similar to Ms Forestier-Kasapi’s pa...
Hodinkee
We're announcing the winner and watch spotting a secret Tank.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: The Time+Tide team reviewed hundreds of watches in 2021. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year that you liked best on the basis of online traffic. At number 11, it’s the Cartier Tank Must Collection… While all the rage in the ’80s, many consumers have deviated away from two-tone … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The 2021 Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 collection (#10) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Independent watchmaking may be the flavour du jour at auctions now, but there are still vintage watches worth paying attention to. Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong sale includes three of them, including an impressively crisp Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” (above) as well as the unique Patek Philippe ref. 3448 in platinum with sapphire hour markers – both of which will be million-dollar watches in US dollar terms (or ten-million dollars in Hong Kong currency). The last watch of the trio, a 1930s Tank Cintree in white gold, is the most elegant. And its seemingly new condition merits reflection: what is a skilfully and sympathetically restored watch worth? The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII takes place on November 25 (for lots 801-852) and November 26 (lots 853-1106). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Phillips.com. Lot 819 – Rolex Daytona ref. 6241 “JPS” With the market for vintage sports watches having plateaued since it peaked in 2018 and 2019, prices have mostly softened across the board. That said, a handful of models still achieve impressive prices, most notably the Rolex Daytona “John Player Special”, or “JPS” for short. That’s because the solid-gold, manual-wind Daytona is an intrinsically rare watch – it is estimated that a few hundred exist as opposed to thousands in steel – and even less common with the “JPS” dial. Perhaps the most striking version of the “Paul Newman” Daytona, the “JPS” nickna...
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