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The 1985 Swatch Consolidation

How Nicolas Hayek\'s ASUAG/SSIH merger (1983) and Swatch brand launch (March 1983) rescued Swiss watchmaking from the quartz crisis.

Audemars Piguet’s Intelligent Watch Winder Sets the Calendar SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet s Intelligent Watch Winder Nov 25, 2025

Audemars Piguet’s Intelligent Watch Winder Sets the Calendar

Audemars Piguet unveiled the unexpected at Dubai Watch Week: an intelligent watch winder created in collaboration with Dubai Future Labs. Designed specifically for the brand’s latest perpetual calendar calibre, the device uses computer vision, a motorised arm, and Bluetooth connectivity to wind the watch, read the dial, and set all calendar indications automatically. It’s a curious blend of haute horlogerie and consumer robotics. Initial thoughts Perpetual calendars have long bedeviled collectors and after-sales service departments alike. Often tedious to reset after non-use, they can break or bind if adjusted at the wrong time. In the past couple of decades, this problem has been largely solved by watchmakers like Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, Stephen McDonnell, Andreas Strehler, Greubel Forsey, F.P. Journe, and most recently by Audemars Piguet. Given that Audemars Piguet is among the names that have developed a fool-proof perpetual calendar, the intelligent watch winder seems like a solution in search of a problem. The choice of the launch platform is also puzzling. On one hand, I understand why Audemars Piguet would develop the winder for its new cal. 7138; it makes sense to promote the new product. But on the other hand, the box would be far more useful if it worked for the brand’s earlier generations of perpetual calendars, which are more liable to break from improper use and need to be adjusted using pushers in the case. There are also many more of them in circulation, ...

Bremont’s Dubai Watch Week Lineup Sees New Additions to the Terra Nova Jumping Hour and Altitude Perpetual Calendar GMT Monopusher Families Worn & Wound
Bremont s Dubai Watch Week Nov 20, 2025

Bremont’s Dubai Watch Week Lineup Sees New Additions to the Terra Nova Jumping Hour and Altitude Perpetual Calendar GMT Monopusher Families

Well, dare I say, we’ve moved past the sticker shock of the “new” Bremont. Two and a half years on from Davide Cerrato taking the helm at the British brand, the discourse around direction seems to have died down, and the new vision for the brand - founded by Nick and Giles English and now owned principally by hedge fund manager and activist investor Bill Ackman - is increasingly clear. If I’m being honest, I’m still not sure what to make of this new Bremont, but one thing that’s for sure is that seeing new releases sporting the Bremont “Wayfinder” logo is no longer the jarring experience it was in March of 2024. And it means I can say that Bremont’s latest releases, a pair of 50-piece limited editions unveiled for Dubai Watch Week, each make a tremendous amount of sense in the context of the current Bremont collection. It’s a big step for the brand, which has had to do a tremendous amount of work over the last few years to make the latest interpretation of Bremont make sense. If I’m being wholly honest, I’m still not sure that the new Bremont is really for me (I’m not sure it’s meant to be), but I do know that when I see their new releases, they are unquestionably Bremont watches. What we have today are two reinterpretations of watches initially released earlier this year at Watches & Wonders, each differentiated by notable aesthetic changes. The first of these is a new iteration of the Terra Nova Jumping Hour, introduced for the first time ...

First Look – The New Piaget Andy Warhol Watch Collage Limited Edition Monochrome
Piaget Andy Warhol Watch Collage Oct 20, 2025

First Look – The New Piaget Andy Warhol Watch Collage Limited Edition

Last November, Piaget announced a licensed collaboration with The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts. This allowed the brand to officially rename its cult 1970s black tie dress watch “The Andy Warhol Watch“. Indeed, the revolutionary artist and undisputed king of Pop Art, was the owner of seven Piaget watches, including a 45mm yellow gold […]

Previewing The Lots Of The November Watch Auctions In Geneva Fratello
Rolex Oyster watch Oct 17, 2025

Previewing The Lots Of The November Watch Auctions In Geneva

The days are getting shorter, and November is approaching. That means the year-end Geneva watch auctions will happen again soon. Not all the houses are showing all their cards yet, but there are previews containing some interesting lots. Sotheby’s will auction the Rolex Oyster watch that accompanied long-distance swimmer Mercedes Gleitze during her attempt to […] Visit Previewing The Lots Of The November Watch Auctions In Geneva to read the full article.

Louis Vuitton Revisits First Watch with the Monterey SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Revisits First Watch Oct 6, 2025

Louis Vuitton Revisits First Watch with the Monterey

Louis Vuitton returns to its watchmaking roots with a recreation of its first-ever wristwatch, the Monterey. The remake sticks closely to the aesthetics of the original designed by architect Gae Aulenti in 1988, but is made to modern standards. While the original was a design-oriented creation with a high-tech (for the time) quartz movement, today’s Monterey is high-end in every way – case, dial, and movement are all contemporary high horology. Initial Thoughts The Monterey is an unapologetically nostalgic watch, and a yardstick against which Louis Vuitton measures its progress. In 1988, the Parisian malletier made its first foray into the watch market with Montre I, a private label affair produced by IWC and designed by Gae Aulenti. The 1988 watch was an impressive in terms of design and concept, but somewhat dinky in terms of tech: a multifunction quartz watch in gold powered by an IWC quartz movement that is no longer reparable. (It is also worth nothing that follow-up Montre II was clad in ceramic, possibly hinting at a sequel to this limited edition.) Now, Louis Vuitton wants the world to know it can make make a watch itself, only relying on external suppliers for the very most specialised components – and to a much higher standard than the Montre of the past. And the Monterey (a play on the American mispronunciation of montre, French for watch) completely eclipses the original in quality – much like the recent revival of Daniel Roth by Louis Vuitton. The Mont...

First Look – The New and Upgraded Baltic Aquascaphe MK2 Dive Watch Collection Monochrome
Baltic Aquascaphe MK2 Dive Watch Sep 22, 2025

First Look – The New and Upgraded Baltic Aquascaphe MK2 Dive Watch Collection

While still a relatively young watch company (launched in 2017), Baltic has established itself as one of the most active brands in the accessible field, to the point where you cannot talk about it as a micro-brand anymore. The brand’s second collection, the Aquascaphe Classic dive watch, was presented in 2018 and is its longest-standing […]

Introducing – The New Porsche Design Chronograph 1 – 1975 Limited Edition in Titanium Monochrome
Porsche Design Chronograph 1 – 1975 Aug 4, 2025

Introducing – The New Porsche Design Chronograph 1 – 1975 Limited Edition in Titanium

Back in 1972, Porsche Design introduced the Chronograph I, the first all-black watch inspired by Porsche cockpit gauges. By 1975, the design evolved into brushed stainless steel. This year, to mark the brand´s retail partnership with the Watches of Switzerland Group, the new Porsche Design Chronograph 1 – 1975 Limited Edition swaps steel for bare, […]

Introducing: The Limited-Edition IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Miramar In Light Blue Ceramic Fratello
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Jul 23, 2025

Introducing: The Limited-Edition IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Miramar In Light Blue Ceramic

You have already seen the beige Mojave Desert, white Lake Tahoe, green Woodland, dark blue Oceana, and Jet Black fly by. Now it’s time for another Top Gun-inspired color. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Miramar is a limited edition of 1,000 watches, each in a light blue ceramic case. The matte dial […] Visit Introducing: The Limited-Edition IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Miramar In Light Blue Ceramic to read the full article.

First Look – The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Miramar In Ceramic & Steel (Incl. Video) Monochrome
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Jul 21, 2025

First Look – The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Miramar In Ceramic & Steel (Incl. Video)

For quite some years now, IWC Schaffhausen has been playing around with colours and ceramics under the name of Colours of TOP GUN. Inspired by various elements of the famous US Navy Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor Program, better known as TOP GUN, the sub-collection exclusively uses ceramic for its cases. Until now, that is, as […]

First Look – The New Maurice Lacroix 1975 Legacy Automatic Series Monochrome
Maurice Lacroix 1975 Legacy Automatic Series Jul 3, 2025

First Look – The New Maurice Lacroix 1975 Legacy Automatic Series

2025 is a celebratory year across the watch industry, with many brands marking anniversaries tied to their founding or the debut of important collections. Among them is Maurice Lacroix, which commemorates its 50th anniversary with the launch of the 1975 Legacy collection, a trio of refined, limited-edition timepieces that blend regional inspiration, contemporary design, and […]

IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Review: A Tribute From The Racetrack To The Big Screen WatchAdvice
IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph Jun 26, 2025

IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Review: A Tribute From The Racetrack To The Big Screen

A chronograph born for the big screen, forged in gold, and fuelled by Formula 1. The latest IWC Pilot’s APXGP Watch Performance Chronograph 41 isn’t just a watch; it’s a celebration of performance, precision, and pure emotion. From the Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG to the cinema, and now on my wrist, this is one experience I won’t forget anytime soon. What We Love The gold, black, and white perfectly reflect the colour palette of the APXGP racing team. The timepiece offers strong wrist presence with beautiful case finishing and a lively dial. From the film to the real-world F1 team, this is storytelling done right on the wrist. What We Don’t The smoked caseback adds to the stealth aesthetic, but slightly reducing the tint would’ve been better to showcase the beautiful movement finishing. And possibly a gold rotor to really nail home the APXGP ties! A touch less white on the dial (especially the minute track) could further enhance the legibility and let the gold accents shine even more. While 41mm is a signature size in IWC’s Pilot’s collection, the watch may still feel larger for slimmer wrists. Overall Rating: 8.8/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 This review is unlike anything I’ve written before, because the watch at the heart of it is unlike anything I’ve experienced before! The IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 isn’t just another Pilots Chronograph model; it’s a symbol of speed...

Introducing: The Ressence Limited Art Watch Type 8 × Daniel Engelberg Fratello
Ressence Limited Art Watch Type Jun 24, 2025

Introducing: The Ressence Limited Art Watch Type 8 × Daniel Engelberg

We all know Benoît Mintiens, founder of Ressence, doesn’t shy away from using multiple colors on his user-friendly spherical watches. The brand’s minimalist Type 8, however, has always had a more modest, single-color design - until now. In collaboration with German painter and sculptor Daniel Engelberg, Ressence presents us with the Type 8 DE1 in […] Visit Introducing: The Ressence Limited Art Watch Type 8 × Daniel Engelberg to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Two-Tone For Those Who Don’t Like Two-Tone Fratello
Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 Jun 18, 2025

Hands-On With The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Two-Tone For Those Who Don’t Like Two-Tone

A little less than a month ago, we saw the introduction of the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925. The watch commemorates 100 years of Longines dual-time watches in a rather bold fashion. Its rose-gold-capped bezel and matching gold dial details set it apart from any other Spirit Zulu Time. I was immediately intrigued by this […] Visit Hands-On With The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Two-Tone For Those Who Don’t Like Two-Tone to read the full article.

Introducing: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Top Gun Lake Tahoe And Mojave Desert Will Take You Places Fratello
IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Jun 9, 2025

Introducing: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Top Gun Lake Tahoe And Mojave Desert Will Take You Places

Most Fratello readers saw Top Gun, right? And something tells me most of you have also seen Top Gun: Maverick. Something also tells me that all who have seen those action-packed movies wanted to be Maverick or Iceman. Who wouldn’t want to fire the afterburners and just send their F-14 Tomcat? With a cool pilot’s […] Visit Introducing: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Top Gun Lake Tahoe And Mojave Desert Will Take You Places to read the full article.

Introducing – The Platinum Edition of the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Tourbillon Le Petit Prince Monochrome
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Tourbillon May 26, 2025

Introducing – The Platinum Edition of the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Tourbillon Le Petit Prince

IWC forged a fruitful partnership with the heirs of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry in 2006, the famous French author of Le Petit Prince, who was also a pilot and adventurer. The first Big Pilot’s Watch to seal the relationship appeared in 2013, setting the flight path for the Le Petit Prince sub-collection with retro styling and […]

Introducing: The 2025 Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Celebrating A Century Of Longines Dual-Time Watches Fratello
Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 May 23, 2025

Introducing: The 2025 Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Celebrating A Century Of Longines Dual-Time Watches

The 2025 Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 marks the 100th anniversary of the Swiss brand’s world-first dual-time wristwatch. You can’t say the rectangular timepiece from 1925 served as an inspiration from a design perspective, but it did in spirit (sorry about that). By adding a rose-gold-capped bezel insert with engraved numbers and indexes, the look […] Visit Introducing: The 2025 Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Celebrating A Century Of Longines Dual-Time Watches to read the full article.

Value In Vintage: A Longines Admiral Watch From The 1970s Fratello
Longines Admiral Watch From Apr 30, 2025

Value In Vintage: A Longines Admiral Watch From The 1970s

Longines has produced a massive variety of designs over its illustrious history. Today, we’re looking at a vintage watch from the brand that reflects the bold designs of the 1970s. One of the standout features of this year’s Watches and Wonders was the fact that many companies sought to offer bold, stand-out designs. Yes, there […] Visit Value In Vintage: A Longines Admiral Watch From The 1970s to read the full article.

Only A Few Days Left To Apply For The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Fratello
Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Independent watchmakers Apr 11, 2025

Only A Few Days Left To Apply For The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize

Independent watchmakers can apply for the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize until April 15th. It will be the second edition of this competition that takes place every other year. For the last edition, more than 1,000 artisans submitted their creative projects. In the end, the jury selected the Régulateur à Détente RP1 watch from the Swiss […] Visit Only A Few Days Left To Apply For The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize to read the full article.