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Time+Tide
With Watches and Wonders Geneva just around the corner, we predict big things from Tudor for 2025.The post Tudor 2025 predictions – why Rolex’s little sibling could end up overshadowing it this year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Ask a random watch enthusiast about the great diving watches in history, and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms will be on the tip of many tongues. In 2023, Blancpain celebrated the 70th anniversary of its legendary Fifty Fathoms in three acts. With a trio of completely different releases, the brand gave us a good idea of […] Visit Hands-On With The New Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
If you’re a Speedmaster fan, you know the story. NASA sent out an RFP for an official watch of the space program – a watch that would undergo a litany of tests (pressure, temperature, corrosion resistance, shock, acceleration, and vibration to name more than a few) to prove that it could withstand the rigors of space exploration. Three watches came in for testing: A Longines Wittnauer 235T, a Rolex Daytona Ref. 6238, and an Omega Speedmaster ST105.003 dating to 1964. As you know, the Speedmaster won the contract and on March 1, 1965, it became the aforementioned official watch of the space program. That designation has since been engraved on the caseback of every Moonwatch in production today. This week, the Swatch Instagram account was buzzing with retro video content that would always end with a title card reading “1965.” Today, we know why. Celebrating 60 years since the flight qualification of the Speedmaster, and nearly 60 years from the moment Ed White took a Speedy for a 20-minute space excursion during Gemini IV, Omega and Swatch have announced a celebratory MoonSwatch that marries the past to the present. The first thing you’re going to notice is the white dial, a detail that harkens back to Snoopy MoonSwatch, but more importantly, to the 2024 White Speedmaster that set the watch world on fire after DanielCraig wore it to Planet Omega in New York in 2023. For all of you who wince at the sight of yet another MoonSwatch – and there are plenty of you – ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Vacheron Constantin is one of the oldest watch brands in the world, founded in 1755 by Jean-Marc Vacheron and François Constantin, and also one of the very few firms tracing their origins back to the 18th Century that can boast an uninterrupted history of watchmaking - a history now well into its third century. Like other brands we’ve covered previously in our "Price of Admission" series, particularly Breguet, Vacheron Constantin is inarguably an elite-level watchmaker, with a level of pricing commensurate with its historical and technical renown. Finding the entry-level pieces in the Vacheron Constantin collection - and even defining what "entry-level" means for this brand - is a challenging proposition, but here is a rundown, family by family, of the most attainable timepieces from the Genevan manufacture that are available today. OVERSEAS The Overseas collection, launched in 1996 and given a high-profile revamp and relaunch in 2016, traces its origin to an unusual and now highly collectible watch released during Vacheron Constantin’s 220th anniversary in 1977. That watch, called the 222 and recently re-released as part of Vacheron’s Historiques collection, was short-lived in its original incarnation but established many of the codes now evident in the Overseas: a six-sided bezel inspired by the maison’s Maltese cross emblem; an integrated bracelet with a similar aesthetic, and an overall bold and sport-oriented character. In its contemporary version, ...
Fratello
History repeats itself. You know of the debate about which automatic chronograph came first. Was Zenith’s El Primero, the Caliber 11 developed by Heuer, Breitling, Hamilton, and movement specialist Dubois Dépraz, or the Speedtimer by Seiko the first? Now we have a new case of “Who came first?” It involves two watches - the Hublot […] Visit Introducing: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic - The First Production Watch Featuring Multicolored Ceramic to read the full article.
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SJX Watches
Twenty twenty-five marks the 350th anniversary of the hairspring – it’s hard to believe the spiral ticking away in tens of millions of mechanical watches is already over three centuries old. The hairspring’s history is marked by revelations, disputes, and technical advancements, driven forward by creative horological minds, making the story of the hairspring a fascinating one. But behind all of that lies the question: who invented the hairspring? There are two familiar contenders for the title and it’ll take a deep dive into history to figure out who deserves credit. The motivation Prior to the invention of the hairspring, most timekeepers were clocks. Watches existed, but were essentially miniature clocks that still relied on some sort of gravity pendulum, making such early watches wildly inaccurate. So the hairspring was born of necessity, the need to transform clunky, stationary clocks into relatively precise portable timekeepers. By the mid 17th century, Dutch mathematician and physicist Christiaan Huygens (1629-1695) had already demonstrated a swinging pendulum could indeed serve as a reliable base unit of time measurement for a mechanical timekeeper. He designed his own cycloidal pendulum clocks equipped with oscillating bobs that were only dependent on gravitational acceleration and the cord’s length, making them true isochronous timekeepers. The first such clock was built in 1657 with the help of clockmaker Salomon Coster. “Isochronous” refers to an o...
Monochrome
Louis Vuitton is at the apex of the luxury ladder, recognised worldwide for its high-quality leather goods and accessories emblazoned with the iconic LV monogram. Although the Maison’s history dates back to 1854, watches didn’t materialise in LV’s portfolio until 2002 with the release of the Tambour. After 20 years of loyal service, the Tambour […]
Fratello
Quartz movements were once seen as the ticking death knell of the mechanical watch industry. Many collectors scoff at these electronic pieces and will not consider them. However, there are pockets of enthusiasts who enjoy finely crafted quartz movements in equally well-made cases. Perhaps the largest knock on quartz is that its movements lack the […] Visit Modern Brands That Should Offer Quartz - Rolex, Omega, Ming, And More to read the full article.
Monochrome
Glashütte Original’s history has many interesting twists and turns, as it was built upon the remains of the VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe conglomerate, or GUB, following the reunification of Germany. As such the company became the legal successor to the once thriving majority of watchmaking enterprises that once called Saxony their home. As you can imagine, […]
Worn & Wound
Whenever Bulgari introduces a new Serpenti, we see a familiar chorus of articles and reactions, often but not always from male members of the watch media, opining on the possibility of a “Serpenti for men”. We don’t like to gender watches around here and firmly believe that anyone can wear anything they’d like, but there’s also no point in denying that the Serpenti, for its entire history, has been aimed squarely at the ladies market, and that the watch itself, insofar as it resembles a piece of fine jewelry, possesses a certain inherent femininity. So the thought experiment of what a Serpenti that is truly gender neutral or even designed for a male wrist has persisted (even though it’s perfectly fine for some watches to just be what they are). Today, through a collaboration with MB&F;, we get an answer, kind of. The Bulgari x MB&F; Serpenti is an audacious reimagining of the core Serpenti idea, which is to interpret the body of a snake as a time telling device. MB&F;, of course, is the perfect collaborator for an endeavor like this. They’re no strangers to taking the essence of a living thing and turning it into a horological work of art. After frogs and bulldogs, the snake seems like a comfortable next step in populating the MB&F; zoo. The new creation, unlike a Serpenti Tubogas that is meant to wrap around a wrist, is worn like a traditional watch, at least in the sense that it consists of a case with a strap mounted to either end of it. That case though...
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Worn & Wound
It’s hard to deny the outward appeal of a field watch. Tactical but not overly macho, mature but not boring-the traditional field watch “style” is eminently wearable for combatants, explorers, mountaineers, and the regular old civilian crowd. Classics like the Hamilton Khaki Field, Bulova A-11 “Hack”, Seiko Alpinist, Rolex Explorer, and many, many more, are icons of the category, and it’s hard to feel like there’s much more to be innovated or improved upon. The TUUL Filthy 13 is keenly aware of the history of the field watch. Its very name is a derivation of the “Dirty Dozen”-both the 1967 war movie about a squad of delinquent soldiers, and the twelve Swiss watchmakers commissioned to build a watch to help win World War II for the Allied forces in 1945. The Filthy 13 is a reference to Private Jake McNiece, the thirteenth member of the real-life military unit, left out of the film based on the squad’s feats-a cheeky signal of the Brooklyn-based company’s dedication to preserving the history and resilience of the field watch, while carving their own convention-breaking niche. I was given the opportunity to test out the Filthy 13, and was immediately drawn in by the well-laid out history and inspiration behind the watch. My first field watch was a Timex Weekender Indiglo given to me by my grandfather-a watch I still have and wear frequently-and I regularly pine after the Hamilton and Seiko 5 lineups. At first glance, the Filthy 13 is a well...
Hodinkee
After acquiring Bucherer in 2023, Rolex is now shutting down the family's watchmaking brand, which was originally founded in 1888.
Worn & Wound
Omega’s Olympic legacy spans decades and continents; the brand has served as Official Timekeeper at the Olympic Games an impressive 31 times since 1932, and is set to do so once again at the 2026 Winter Games in Milano Cortina, Italy. To celebrate that golden history, Omega has created a new Seamaster heritage model-the Seamaster 37mm Moonshine Gold Milano Cortina 2026. While the name is as exhausting as an Olympic biathlon, the Milano Cortina’s design and specs will be familiar. The titular Moonshine Gold is an 18-karat yellow gold alloy created by Omega in 2019, and boasts a paler color than similar gold alloys, and a high resistance to fading. Composed of silver, copper, and palladium, it lends an elegant opulence to the otherwise understated Seamster design. The Grand Feu enamel dial wears diamond-polished dauphine hands and Moonshine Gold hour markers and Omega logo, as well as a minute track in grey Petit Feu enamel. The simplicity of this design will likely please longtime Seamaster enthusiasts-the gold case and hands alongside muted minute markers brings to mind classic Seamaster De Ville timepieces from the 1960s, and the white dial looks as crisp and inviting as a freshly-polished ice rink. The symmetrical Moonshine Gold case and hexagonal crown harken back to Omega’s original Seamaster Olympic watches, appearing most similar to the 1956 Melbourne edition. That watch also featured 18-karat gold, though the Milano Cortina is larger at 37mm in diameter ...
Worn & Wound
It’s hard to understand Budapest without being there. On its surface, it seems like any other major European capital, but in practice, Budapest is a singular experience. I was lucky enough to visit Budapest when I was 14, and what I encountered was a city replete with contradictions, one that wears its history on its sleeve, and which evokes a unique perspective. In other words, it’s exactly the sort of city where you would expect to find someone like Jake LeBoy. “I went there for vacation a few years ago and I thought, you know, I’m just going to get an apartment here,” he told me. “It’s pretty nice. And I’ve been enjoying it ever since.” Jake LeBoy, the founder and designer behind the newly launched watch brand J.M. LeBoy, expresses a similar sort of contradiction. Talking to Jake, it would be hard to guess that the remarkably chipper native Californian had served as an enlisted Marine, or that he has spent much of the time since working as a military contractor all around the world. What wasn’t hard to see was his love of watches. Soft spoken and warm, Jake is a passionate watch enthusiast, driven by detail and with a strong sense of what it means to do right by the collectors whose attention he’s looking to grab. “I’ve always been a huge watch nerd,” he explained. “Even from the time I was a little kid, I saw Goldfinger and the famous Submariner, and then I saw Jason Bourne, the first one with the TAG Heuer… that for me, dude - I final...
Monochrome
In almost exactly one year’s time, the Olympic flame will once again be ignited, marking the start of yet another edition of the greatest sporting event in modern history. The 2026 Milano Cortina Winter Olympics will commence on February 6th next year and will welcome athletes from around the globe to Milano, Cortina and five […]
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Monochrome
Models come and go from brands’ portfolios. There’s nothing extraordinary in this, it’s just standard practice and lifecycle management. Rolex, for example, did it last year with the Yacht-Master II Regatta Chronograph (not necessarily a bad idea…) Patek Philippe is no stranger to this concept, as we’ve seen in the past – basically every year, […]
Monochrome
Hamilton’s US chapter is marked by its legendary field watches for the US Army, interpreted in the popular Khaki line, and its impressive amount of Hollywood screen debuts. On the horological front, perhaps the most exciting moment in Hamilton’s history took place in Switzerland, where it participated in the race to develop the world’s first […]
Fratello
Japan is an infinite source of inspiration for creative people. The history and culture of the Land of the Rising Sun have long sparked a rich palette of artistry in art, fashion, furniture, and architecture. With the Citizen Tsuyosa Concept Collection, IFL Watches pays tribute to Japanese culture by creating four very distinctly Japanese dials […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces An Artistic Tribute To Japan With The Citizen Tsuyosa Concept Collection to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
For those in the know, Breguet is a name in the history of watchmaking that commands instant respect, and even reverence. The brand’s legendary founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, is rightfully lauded as the inventor of the tourbillon, but his lifetime horological resumé goes far beyond even that: he made the first self-winding movement, the first watch that was wound by a crown rather than a key, the pare-chute shock protection system, and the gong system for repeater watches, among other innovations. His customers included historical figures like King Louis XVI of France, Queen Marie-Antoinette, and Napoleon Bonaparte. He even invented a style of hands that many other watchmakers other than Breguet still use today. The modern brand that bears his name is one of the undisputed, upper-echelon Swiss watch maisons, alongside names like Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet, and the jewel in the crown of the Swatch Group. All that said and acknowledged, a newcomer to Breguet, especially the prospective owner of his or her first Breguet watch, may find all of this background intimidating. And make no mistake, Breguet is unapologetic in both its embrace of historical renown and its timepieces’ exalted level of luxury. The brand’s modern-day stewards harbor no illusion that they offer anything that would be any aficionado’s “first watch.” The whole concept of “entry level” must be stretched a bit at this venerated tier of watchmaking: like Patek Philippe, A. Lan...
Time+Tide
The Breitling Navitimer is probably the first name you think of when the subject of pilot's watches comes up. Here's a bit of its history.The post Built for the cockpit, the Breitling Navitimer is a true pilot’s watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Worn & Wound
Edward East was one of the most successful and distinguished London clockmakers of the 1600s. He was a shrewd businessman and brilliantly talented artisan who earned the high regard of the rich and famous of society. East made his name against the backdrop of one of the most turbulent times in British history. Early Life in the City of London Edward East was born on the 22nd of August 1602 in Southill, Bedfordshire. He was well-educated, and began his training in London, with the guild associated with gold and silversmithing known as the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths. Edward’s apprenticeship began in May 1617 under the Master Robert Podmore. In March 1618, his apprenticeship was transferred to Richard Rogers through the Goldsmiths’ Company. Rogers lived and worked on London’s Fleet Street, a bustling centre of commerce where many famous clock and watchmakers had already set up business. It was in this lively environment that Edward learned how to work with different metals and trained in specialist skills, such as engraving and ornamentation. He also met one of the leading London watchmakers, Edmund Bull (1585-1622), son of the eminent watchmaker and goldsmith John Bull. At some point, East may have worked as an apprentice for Bull, as there is evidence that he travelled with him on a business trip to Holland during this time. Pear-shaped watch in a rock crystal case. Gilt-brass dial engraved with the Nativity and a figure of Time. Made by Edward East, London, c....
Worn & Wound
From Steve McQueen’s Heuer Monaco to Breitling clocks in Bentley GTs, there’s simply no denying how inextricably linked cars and wristwatches are. The mechanical artistry exhibited in both of their productions demonstrates how creativity and engineering can produce incredible pieces of technology with a hint of style and flair. Autodromo––a watch brand inspired by the history and allure of the automotive industry––is set to release a limited-edition variant of their Monoposto timepiece in collaboration with Mobil 1 to celebrate the company’s 50th anniversary of their synthetic motor oil. Limited to 100 pieces for the stainless-steel variant and 50 pieces for the gold tone variant, this model is the first re-issue of the original three-hand Monoposto produced by Autodromo in 2012. Let’s start off with the Mobile 1 Edition’s specs. Both steel and gold tone cases have a rather large 43mm diameter, employing the design principles utilized in “the oversized dashboard gauges of 1950s ‘monopostos’ or single seater racing cars,” according to Autodromo. The watch’s wire lugs support 20mm handmade Italian buffalo leather straps fitted with stainless roller buckles. Powering the piece is the dependable Miyota 9039, an automatic 24-jewel movement with hacking and hand winding, beating at a solid 4 Hz with a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. The movement can be admired through the exhibition caseback featuring Mobil 1 branding and other informatio...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Aquastar's Benthos 500 holds an important spot in dive watch history. First unveiled in 1970, it stood out from the crowd with its unique chronograph-like functionality and slow-moving 60-minute elapsed-time counter. It was bold, unconventional, and ahead of its time-until the Quartz Crisis swept the industry off course. But what if quartz hadn't disrupted the market so quickly? The new Aquastar Benthos H2 wonders just that, providing a design inspired by archival drawings from the late '60s while moving it towards modern tastes and technologies.
Monochrome
French brand Bell & Ross has a long history of partnering with special forces, diving commandos, air forces and anything military-issued. These connections with the world of aviation and military forces have been at the centre of the brand’s development since its debut in 1992. More recently, in 2021, Bell & Ross announced a rather […]
Monochrome
When it was presented in 2021 in Europe, the Citizen Series 8 collection made quite an impression on us, with its combination of sharp lines, bold designs and fair prices. The little sister of the high-end The Citizen range (a truly important step in the brand’s history), it marked the brand’s commitment to seriously look […]
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