Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #193: Omega vs Rolex
Tune in as they cover fit, finishing, brand heritage bang-for-buck, and more. It’s a total Rolex vs. Omega face-off.
Results for Monaco, McQueen, and Le Mans (1971)
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
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Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer – Limited Edition: hands-on review
Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer was first released in Baselworld 2009 with two versions – white and rose gold with silver dials. In Baselworld 2016, the watch was updated with a blue in-house manufactured dial. The 2020 version now comes with a new case design, noticeably the bezel and a differently finished movement.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon
Editor’s note: In the latest episode of Watch & Chill, we happen on the subject of Royal Oak Concept models for women, and after again seeing the footage of this extraordinary stepped dial sparkle machine, we had to give it its own post, and exploration. Ask the average person what the purpose of a watch … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Kurono By Hajime Asaoka Anniversary Green Mori – Good News, It’s Relatively Affordable; Bad News, It’s Hard To Get
Often with incoming pieces GaryG resists the temptation to wear a watch until he has had the chance to photograph it in pristine condition, but in the spirit of fun he chucked out the principle of restraint and slapped his new Hajime Asaoka Kurono Anniversary Green Mori right on his wrist. When you read Gary's story and see his photos you will know why.
SJX Watches
Richard Mille Introduces the RM 27-04 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal
Conceived for the 10th anniversary of the partnership between Richard Mille and Spanish tennis champion Rafael Nadal, the RM 27-04 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal is an ultra-light, ultra-exotic, and ultra-expensive mechanical wristwatch. Equipped with a hand-wind movement suspended on a dense network of steel cables within the case, the RM 27-04 has the greatest shock resistance of any Richard Mille wristwatch, or about 12,000 g. And its case is carbon composite, which combined with the skeletonised movement, means it weighs as much as a few sheets of paper. Initial thoughts While the recent RM 72-01 chronograph went in a different direction than usual for Richard Mille – it’s equipped with a new, in-house movement with an unusual, double oscillating pinion construction – the RM 27-04 is very much in keeping with the brand’s spirit. Mr Nadal’s nickname is engraved on the side of the case The RM 27-04 is a more extreme version of what Richard Mille has done before, with more cables, more skeletonisation, and more advanced composites. And it is also US$1 million, give or take. Judged by what the brand does, the RM 27-04 is a successful product in concept and execution. But more broadly speaking, Richard Mille has been all about such watches for several years now, so the RM 27-04 doesn’t feel that exciting or interesting. Strung like a racquet Weighing just 30 g including its strap – equivalent to about six sheets of A4 paper – the RM 27-04 takes the cable-suspension...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Tudor Royal Collection
A sporty steel watch with integrated bracelet, headlined by a killer day and date version.
SJX Watches
Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300 M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum
Best known as the watch worn by Pierce Brosnan playing James Bond, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300 M made its debut in 1993. But the blue-on-blue “Bond” model was not the flagship of the line. That distinction went to a chronograph composed of three metals – gold, titanium, and tantalum – an exotic and expensive combination two decades ago. The tri-metal combination (the original was the ref. 2296.80 for anyone curious) made a comeback as a time-only watch for the 25th anniversary of the Seamaster 300 M two years ago. Now, Omega has finally revealed a truer homage to the original, the Seamaster Diver 300 M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum, which stays to the aesthetics of its inspiration but refined to be more contemporary and technically advanced. Initial thoughts The original version of the tri-metal chronograph isn’t the best known variant of the Seamaster – because it was extremely expensive for the period and sold poorly – so when the time-only variant debuted in 2018, the combination of metal was rather novel. The new chronograph feels exactly like that – it is handsome and modern, but like the 1993 original, it is very expensive. In fact, it is a lot more expensive, all things considered. Priced at a little under US$20,000, the new chronograph is significantly more expensive than its steel-and-gold counterparts – by a factor of 50%. While the price tag partially justified by the unusual material combination and good looks, the new Seamaster Chr...
SJX Watches
Louis Moinet Introduces the Space Revolution
Established in 2004, Louis Moinet takes its name from a pioneering, 19th century French watchmaker. A contemporary of Abraham-Louis Breguet, Moinet remains less famous than the inventor of the tourbillon, though his recognition got a boost in 2013 when it was discovered that Moinet had invented the chronograph in 1816. Today, the resurrected name focuses on complicated watches that usually feature novel movements and often incorporate uncommon materials. The latest from Louis Moinet – and one of its most complicated watches to date – is the Space Revolution, which is equipped with twin orbiting spaceships as well as twin flying tourbillons. Initial thoughts As astronomical-theme watches go, the Space Revolution is one of the easiest to understand, because it’s not an astronomical complication, but rather an astronomical theme with a generous dose of sci-fi. The twin orbital oscillators are the most impressive element of the movement. While they probably add nothing to its timekeeping, they are complicated to execute and make for quite a mechanical performance. While the theme and technical execution are interesting – but not entirely new – the watch resembles other contemporary complications in that it is big, thick, and mechanically sci-fi in appearance. The complication and form definitely bring to mind the Jacob & Co. Astronomia, which is not a bad thing since the Astronomia is one of the defining watches in the segment of over-the-top complications with mode...
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: 5 reasons why Patek Philippe is the most coveted watch brand in the world
There are lots of in-depth, scholarly dissertations of why Patek Philippe is, and always will be, immensely coveted by collectors. But, in the spirit of Mark Twain, who said along the lines of, “I apologise for the long letter, I didn’t have time to write you a short one,” we found an impressively short post on … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: 5 reasons why Patek Philippe is the most coveted watch brand in the world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch: Cutting A Sharp Edge
The 'Kingsman' feature-film series is based on comic books of the same name and stars a special breed of British secret service operatives. Stylish as they are, these Savile Row agents also obviously need watches to match their bespoke suits. In honor of the forthcoming third film in the series, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Mr. Porter launch the exceptional Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch. And it is bound to wow you with its cutting-edge profile!
Deployant
MB&F; x EDDY JAQUET LM SPLIT ESCAPEMENT – 8 PIÈCES UNIQUES
For the first time, MB&F; is putting the work of a traditional artisan in the spotlight, with the LM Split Escapement ‘Eddy Jaquet’ Limited Edition: a series of eight unique pieces featuring the extraordinary imagination and skill of the well-known engraver in depicting the novels of Jules Verne.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch
Conceived specifically for The King’s Man film, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch is modelled on a 1907 pocket watch and entirely fitting for a film about a fictional spy agency located in a Savile Row tailor’s shop. The watch was launched to coincide with the scheduled premiere of the third instalment in the Kingsman franchise, but the movie was postponed to early 2021, though the watch was not. Initial thoughts The Kingsman Knife Watch caught my attention the JLC announced it not too long ago; it was obviously a classically-styled watch but with enough of a twist to make it interesting. The Kingsman tie up was a point to note, but not particularly compelling. Despite its qualities, the watch was expensive. Examining it in the metal confirms my initial reaction. Despite being simple, the Knife Watch is quirky and compelling. It also sits relatively well on the wrist, despite extreme flatness and the faux bow at 12 o’clock. But the execution of the dial falls short – the printing isn’t neatly done and also feels too flat. Even with the constraints of a ultra-thin watch, it should be better, especially given the price. And the price is a big one. This costs double the currently-available Master Ultra Thin Small Seconds (which is automatic and an inexact comparison), and 55% more than the Master Ultra Thin 1907 that was discontinued in 2017. Even being a small run of 100 watches, the Knife Watch feels too expensive for what it is. Razo...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The “I Voted” Shinola Detrola 43mm Limited Edition watch
Shinola is an American luxury design brand that manufactures various products – from timepieces, leather goods, jewellery, and even audio equipment. Founded in 2011, the company operates an in-house watch and leather factory based within the fifth floor of the historic Argonaut Building, where a team of artisans hand assembles timepieces and crafts premium leather straps. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The “I Voted” Shinola Detrola 43mm Limited Edition watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
MB&F; Introduces the LM Split Escapement ‘Eddy Jaquet’
Conceived as an imagined, 19th-century take on MB&F;’s uber-modern, sci-fi inspired Horological Machines, the Legacy Machines (LM) draw inspiration from the aesthetic of the era – and the works of Jules Verne – to create a steampunk-meets-classical-watchmaking timepiece. Now the spirit of the LM have been made tangible with the LM Split Escapement ‘Eddy Jaquet’. The series is limited to just eight watches in red gold, each featuring a dial depicting a scene from Verne’s novels, rendered in minute detail with the hand engraving of Eddy Jaquet, a Swiss artisan who has worked with an array of watchmakers but perhaps best known for his work on Voutilainen watches. Initial thoughts The new LM Split Escapement (SE) is a departure from the typical MB&F; watch, which usually emphasises technical aspects, like movement construction or finishing, or case design and materials (and occasionally collaborations with contemporary artists). Instead the new LM SE is all about artisanal craft, something that is familiar territory for independent watchmakers like Voutilainen but novel for MB&F;. Though such artistically decorated timepieces are not a traditional strength of MB&F;, the result is an attractive watch. The engraving is impressively done, and avoids appearing monochromatic thanks to its depth. The intricate, pictorial engraving also complements the style of the LM, making the whole greater than the sum of the parts. In fact, it can be argued that the original LM SE w...
Revolution
Introducing the Ralph Lauren Polo Watch Collection
“I called it Polo because it had a sensibility that was sporty and international. It was sophisticated and stylish. Polo had an imagery that represented a lifestyle, and style is forever.” – Ralph Lauren
SJX Watches
Raketa Introduces the Big Zero Malevich
Having been reenergised with some Swiss marketing savvy, Russian watchmaker Raketa has revived some of its Soviet-era classics and now debuts the striking Big Zero Malevich. The Big Zero Malevich reproduces one of the artist’s most famous works with tiny pieces of mineral stone, creating a stark, geometric mosaic on the dial. Created in partnership with the State Tretyakov Gallery, the Big Zero Malevich is a limited edition of 300 watches, with a portion of the proceeds from its sale going to the museum. Initial thoughts Art rarely translates well onto a watch dial, especially for an affordable price, but the Big Zero Malevich manages to pull it off. It appeals visually, but also in terms of materials – the dial is not just printed but instead a mineral stone mosaic. As an aside, shorter hands would have maximised the impact of the black square on the dial – the hands would blend into the square entirely – but that would have made legibility impossible. The only downside is the simple case and no-frills movement, but with a price tag of a little over US$1,400, the Big Zero Malevich is priced well. Abstract mosaic A watch brand owned by the Petrodvorets Watch Factory, which has its origins in 18th century Tsarist Russia, Raketa is now owned by English and French investors who recruited former Jaquet Droz chief executive Manuel Emch as a consultant. An industry veteran who’s an art collector himself, Mr Emch is no doubt responsible for the tie up with Tretyakov Ga...
Revolution
The Panerai Luminor Marina: Enduring Classics
How a watch from the annals of military history-and a brand that embodies Italian swagger-redefined “cool” for a new generation of collectors.
Time+Tide
The 5 best Longines watches released in 2020 (in a very good year)
This year has been a big one for Longines - for a couple of reasons. They have continued down the purist pathway of vintage reissues through their Heritage collection, as well as continuing to build their other enthusiast-favourite families such as the Record and HydroConquest collections. But the biggest news from Longines in 2020 was the … ContinuedThe post The 5 best Longines watches released in 2020 (in a very good year) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Seiko is donating the proceeds of one Presage SRQ033J1 Porco Rosso Limited Edition which you can buy here
For fans of the prolific Japanese animation studio Studio Ghibli, the name Porco Rosso will be familiar to you. He’s the ace biplane pilot who learned the art of flying in World War I, before being turned into a pig and then, turning his skills to fighting pirate crime. He has legions of fans around … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Seiko is donating the proceeds of one Presage SRQ033J1 Porco Rosso Limited Edition which you can buy here appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Sarpaneva x Moomin: Stepan Sarpaneva Celebrates 75 Years Of Moomin With This Scandinavian Fantasy For The Wrist
The Moomin universe was created by the late Swedish-speaking Finn Tove Jansson. It comprises a microcosm of Jansson’s fairytale version of Scandinavia thrown in a blender with Roald Dahl and a sprinkling of J.R.R. Tolkien. And that’s all present in the Sarpaneva x Moomin watch honoring the 75th anniversary of Jansson’s highly successful book, 'The Moomins and the Great Flood.' This watch has a secret, though. Find it here!
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Camo Yohji Yamamoto is everything that’s great about the brand, in a watch
Hublot’s Big Bang series this autumn is like an unstoppable tank, with this last month being marked by strong new editions of Big Bang and the Spirit of Big Bang. But no watch has quite captured all that the brand has become quite like this urban warrior, with an almost imperious level of quality and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Camo Yohji Yamamoto is everything that’s great about the brand, in a watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
When Accuracy Mattered – Part III: The Triumph of Brands Over Watchmaking
The demise of chronometry competitions last year – when the final edition of Concours International de Chronométrie took place – finally killed the dangerous heresy that a watch is a practical instrument that should be trusted to show the correct time. With the elimination of the last scientific and independent assessment of a watch’s worth, the cult of haute horlogerie comes into its own, reinforcing its definition of a watch as an emotional product born of passion, tradition and prestige. Trials to see who can produce the most precise, accurate and reliable watch originated in Geneva in 1879, when the head of its observatory, Professor Emile Plantamour, devised a testing routine that rated watches in the various positions and temperatures encountered in everyday wear. Observatories soon became the influencers of the pocket-watch age, determining the legitimacy and worth of luxury timepieces. American magnates like James Ward Packard, Henry Graves Jr and Pierpont Morgan secured the most highly rated pieces. A Longines split-seconds chronograph pocket watch that was tested at the Neuchatel Observatory in 1968; this particular example once belong to Jean Pitallier, the former president of the French Cycling Federation (FFC) Despite the advent of wristwatches, the Neuchatel Observatory kept the competitions alive until 1968 when Japanese entrants swept the board. In 1972, deputation of Swiss watch brand executive petitioned the Neuchâtel government minister Ren...
Quill & Pad
Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer*: A Superlative Watch But Is It Really A Chronometer?
According to Joshua Munchow, the Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer is one of the most astounding pieces to be released in 2020, and when he first saw it on social media he actually gasped out loud. The more that he looked at it the more he fell in love with the style, the engineering, and the concept behind the movement. But he must ask: is it really a chronometer?
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Zero West Spitfire S4-P9427 celebrates the 80th Anniversary of the Battle of Britain with 80 watches
Zero West is a new British brand of boutique, heritage-inspired watches. All of their watches are designed and assembled on the South Coast of the UK (with assembly performed by a third-generation watchmaker 10 miles away from where the watches are designed). Zero West was founded by Andrew Brabyn, a designer, and Graham Collins, an ex-black … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Zero West Spitfire S4-P9427 celebrates the 80th Anniversary of the Battle of Britain with 80 watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
MB&F; HM10 Bulldog: Forget The Dog, Beware Of The Owner (Video)
Inspired by a bulldog, MB&F;’s Horological Machine No. 10 features a rounded, stocky body; the time display forms its eyes; and the stout legs form the lugs, hugging its owner fiercely and loyally. But what is more likely to attract your eye are the wildly canine jaws with teeth that open and shut according to the amount of tension in the mainspring. The Watches TV takes a close look (but not too close - woof!).
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Ferrari 1000 GP
Two brands, both brash, bold, loud and cutting edge. Well, OK, not loud in the same sense as a V12 engine, but Hublot is a perfect fit as the watchmaking partner to Ferrari. This time, it is a celebration of Ferrari’s 1000th Grand Prix, a milestone in Formula One’s 70th anniversary year and, yes, it … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Ferrari 1000 GP appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife – hands on review
Jaeger-LeCoultre and MR PORTER have launched the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife watch, a limited edition of 100 timepieces, specially adapted for The King’s Man, the upcoming Kingsman origins film directed by Matthew Vaughn.
Quill & Pad
Q: Who Was Alfred Helwig? A: Inventor Of The Flying Tourbillon
Close to 120 years after Abraham-Louis Breguet patented the tourbillon, master watchmaker Alfred Helwig (1886-1974) created a “flying” tourbillon at the German School of Watchmaking in Glashütte. The flying tourbillon became somewhat characteristic of Glashütte and lives on in a few very special watches today. Who was Alfred Helwig? Find out here.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234G-001
Patek Philippe has just taken the covers off the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234G-001, a medium-sized take on its original dual-time zone aviator’s watch. Originally launched in pink gold, and then in steel as a limited edition, the compact pilot is now available in white gold. Now very much a familiar part of the Calatrava range, the pilot’s watch was a surprise when it was first launched. A radically new design for the classical watch manufacturer when it debuted in 2015, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time sparked some controversy, mainly centred the generic aviator’s watch look and the oversized pushers. Several additional models later, the Calatrava Pilot is a full collection of watches, ranging from the time-only limited edition made for the New York Grand Exhibition to an alarm that chimes like a repeater, and now the mid-size Travel Time in white gold. Initial thoughts While the sporty look suits the original model with its large 42 mm case, the smaller case appeals to people with more traditional tastes or smaller wrists, making the new mid-size version an intuitive and complementary edition to the line. It’s essentially a more wearable version of an appealing watch. The Calatrava Pilot Travel Time looks more youthful than the average Calatrava, though that’s changing with recent releases like the ref. 6007A, owing to the oversized numerals and large pushers. Still, in traditional Patek Philippe style, the overall feel is refined for a pilot’s wat...
Deployant
Chillout TGIFridays: Hasselblad 907X Special Moon Edition – pictorial of a rare camera
A quick one today with a pictorial on a rather rare camera, which was announced by Hasselblad on July 2019, and began shipping sometime first quarter this year. This is the Hasselblad 907X Special Moon Edition, a rather rare camera. We bring you photographs on a recent handling session with the camera owned by aRead More