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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

MICRO MONDAYS: Built for baristas, the Brew Retrograph Technicolor makes a welcome return Time+Tide
Brew Retrograph Technicolor makes Sep 6, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Built for baristas, the Brew Retrograph Technicolor makes a welcome return

Design is the language microbrands use best to communicate to collectors what it is they bring to the table. One microbrand who has done an amazing job of this is Brew Watch Company. Founded by designer Jonathan Ferrer in 2015, the company has released multiple collections, which feature attention-grabbing designs, that all focus on a … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Built for baristas, the Brew Retrograph Technicolor makes a welcome return appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Sep 4, 2021

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges

Invented in 1860, the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges is synonymous with Girard-Perregaux, a design unique and impressive enough it remains the watchmaker’s flagship movement after some one and a half centuries. Since its modern-day revival in 1981, the triple-bridge tourbillon has evolved to keep up with contemporary tastes, leading to variants like the Neo Bridges, which has sleek, arched bridges. Earlier this year, Girard-Perregaux unveiled the latest form of the Three Bridges, which does away with the base plate altogether, resulting in a floating, see-through movement. Now the brand has finally unveiled the luxe version of the watch, made even more striking in pink gold and black –  the Tourbillon with Three Flying Bridges. Initial thoughts My opinion of the most recent iterations of the Three Bridges have been lukewarm, as I find the reworked designs tend to blur the original identity of the movement – the designs attempt modernity but don’t quite make it – but latest version changed my mind. The Flying Bridges is clean and streamlined, creating in a magnificent, unobscured view of its mechanics, one that’s enhanced with the right choice of colour and architecture. And the Flying Bridges is an interesting watch from a technical standpoint. The parts that make up the timekeeping train – barrel, gear train, and tourbillon-regulator – are arranged linearly and vertically, as the historical Three Bridges was. But now they supported by three horizon...

Czapek Introduces the Antarctique Rattrapante SJX Watches
Czapek Introduces Sep 1, 2021

Czapek Introduces the Antarctique Rattrapante

Czapek & Cie unveiled the Antarctique a year ago, its first foray into the popular category of luxury-sports watches. While the Antarctique had many of the elements synonymous with a luxury-sports watch, namely a steel case, blue dial, and integrated bracelet, it lacked what is arguably the signature element of Czapek’s design DNA – a pair of sub-dials at five and seven. Just unveiled at Geneva Watch Days, the followup to the original model combines a light touch of high horology with styling more faithful to the brand’s origins – the Antarctique Rattrapante, which is also the brand’s first split-seconds chronograph. Initial thoughts At a glance, the Antarctique Rattrapante is a noble effort in fusing the brand’s signature look with a modern, open-worked dial. Aesthetically, the design works well. The concept of having the entire split-seconds chronograph module visible on the dial creates an intricate view of the mechanics that would normally be hidden. And the mechanics are interesting, as the look is the result of substantial contortions to lower the sub-dials while ensuring they do not run into the gear train for the central hands. Notably, the repositioning was done with extra wheels – the chronograph mechanism actually has the registers in their traditional three and nine positions. At its core however, the chronograph remains a traditional, mono-pusher mechanism, albeit one that’s modular. The split-seconds mechanism does lack a key feature found ...

Bulgari’s pivot to the Roma at Geneva Watch Days reveals they’re not just the Finissimo Show Time+Tide
Bulgari s pivot Aug 31, 2021

Bulgari’s pivot to the Roma at Geneva Watch Days reveals they’re not just the Finissimo Show

Question: has any watch brand evolved as much as Bulgari in the last decade? In 2011, the company’s watchmaking design division was transplanted from Rome to Neuchâtel in Switzerland in a sign of the brand’s horological intent. It’s proved to be wildly fruitful, too, as Italian style has merged with Swiss precision in a succession … ContinuedThe post Bulgari’s pivot to the Roma at Geneva Watch Days reveals they’re not just the Finissimo Show appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda PF Collection SJX Watches
Breguet inspired Aug 30, 2021

Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda PF Collection

When I spoke with Parmigiani chief executive Guido Terreni earlier this year, he described his plans for the brand’s product as having a “new direction for design, which is less ostentatious”, adding that Parmigiani will ” go back to the craft and excellence of the early days… with an eye on the world of today.” With the new Tonda PF collection launched to mark Parmigiani’s 25th anniversary, Mr Terreni appears to have pulled it off. Made up of four watches – ranging from a time-only to a pricey split-seconds – the Tonda PF is a synthesis of Parmigiani’s recent integrated-bracelet sports watch and its earlier Toric timepieces that were classical and Breguet inspired. The result is a sleek case and integrated bracelet matched with a refined yet minimalist guilloche dial featuring solid-gold hands and indices. Initial thoughts In a review two months ago, I wrote that liked the Tonda GT sports watch, though I thought the dial could be done better in several ways. The new Tonda PF does exactly that. It keeps everything that was good with the Tonda GT and enhances the rest. The dial has been stripped of superfluous elements while gaining a barleycorn engine turning. In fact, the dial is almost Moser-ish in its restraint, with the only marking being a small “PF” logo, which is made of solid 18k gold. And the upgrades in materials continue with the case, with all the steel model getting a knurled platinum bezel. And the movements have been enhanced. The...

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Aug 30, 2021

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar

After the Streamliner made its debut in chronograph form last year, H. Moser & Cie. has just grown the line of luxury-sports watches to include the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar. As is typical of Moser’s house style, the new perpetual calendar is streamlined in design and presentation, with the dial indicating the date and month while remaining minimalist, avoiding sub-dials entirely. The inaugural version of the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar gets a black fumè dial, giving the watch a subtle palette that’s fitting for its minimalist aesthetic. Notably, the monochromatic, shades-of-grey livery also harks back to the limited edition chronograph that was the opening model of the collection. Initial thoughts Compared to the two earlier Streamliner models – chronograph and time-only respectively – the latest is the most representative of Moser because of the ingenious movement within. A movement that made Moser’s reputation when it was resurrected in 2005, the calibre is one of the few that truly reimagines the perpetual calendar. While the Streamliner chronograph has an equally ingenious movement, the perpetual calendar movement is Moser’s own, which makes it that much more special. While appearing similar to the other versions of the Streamliner, the Perpetual Calendar differs in a few respects, which makes it stand out against its siblings in the Streamliner range, and more appealing for that reason. The design is slightly more nuanced, possessing details l...

Please excuse us while we change in front of you - the new Time+Tide website is (finally) emerging Time+Tide
Aug 25, 2021

Please excuse us while we change in front of you - the new Time+Tide website is (finally) emerging

It’s ok, we can admit it. The Time+Tide website has stayed the same for a very long time. While other sites have experienced a consistent series of – usually very good and worthwhile – updates and adaptations, we have opted for a different approach. In terms of our website design, we have partied like it’s … ContinuedThe post Please excuse us while we change in front of you – the new Time+Tide website is (finally) emerging appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive 5 Days Caliber 9RA2 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Aug 24, 2021

Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive 5 Days Caliber 9RA2

Having introduced a new design language along with the all-new, automatic 9SA5 last year, Grand Seiko is now doing the same for the Spring Drive. The watchmaker has debuted a pair of Heritage Collection Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Editions, the “Minamo” SLGA007 in steel and the “Tree Rings” SLGA008 in rose gold. Both are powered by the 9RA2 that’s part of the family of latest-generation Spring Drive movements first seen last year in the Grand Seiko Diver 600 m SLGA001. Just 5 mm high, the slimness of the 9RA5 means the pair of new models are the thinnest Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches to date. Initial thoughts The new models are essentially Spring Drive versions of the self-winding Heritage models launched last year (including an ultra-luxe platinum version and the more recent “White Birch”). That’s a good thing for two reasons. One is the intrinsic appeal of the design, which is vintage inspired and appealing, packaged in a case that’s a good size and easily wearable. And the other is the increased consistency in styling between Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive and automatic models, doing away with the confusing distinction between movements and designs. The “Minamo” SLGA007 in steel But that’s also the downside for the buyers of the limited-edition models (either these or the automatics), since the design has been replicated as a standard-production watch with the automatic movement, and the same will surely be done for the new 9RA2 Spring Dr...

Singer Reimagined Introduces the Track 1 DLS Edition SJX Watches
Ming I can uncover Aug 20, 2021

Singer Reimagined Introduces the Track 1 DLS Edition

Having just concluded, Monterey Car Week was a series of shows and auctions, concluding with the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance. The week was the venue for Porsche 911 specialist Singer Vehicle Design to exhibit the DLS for the first time in the United States. Launched in 2018, the DLS is a Porsche 964 that’s been entirely remade to be ultra-light and ultra-aerodynamic. To go along with the car, Singer Reimagined rolled out the Track 1 DLS Edition. It’s a new take on Singer’s trademark central chronograph, reimagined to be, well, ultra-light, while retaining its recognisable case design and thoroughly original Agenhor movement. Initial thoughts Because it combines a distinct, retro design along with a truly ingenious movement, I like the Track 1 (and I own another version of the watch). The DLS is essentially a condensed version of the same thing – and it’s cool. The aesthetic is pared-back just enough, while the composite case is an interesting novelty. Though the material is common in watchmaking, it’s a first for Singer. The only shortcoming I can uncover is a philosophical one: the DLS Edition echoes its namesake automobile with lightweight materials, but unlike the car, it doesn’t make any functional changes. The movement is identical to that of the standard model, but it is admittedly an excellent and innovative movement. Still, all that’s a moot point given that the watch is only available to owners of the car, of which there will be just 75. ...

Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Superleggera Edition SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces Aug 17, 2021

Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Superleggera Edition

Essentially a dressed-up version of the Monsieur in black ceramic, the Monsieur Superleggera Edition takes inspiration from the J12 Superleggera, a chronograph named after the ultra-light racing cars of the mid-20th century. Like the J12, the Monsieur Superleggera has an obvious automotive theme in its design, with its time display redesigned to resemble a speedometer. Initial thoughts I’m a fan of the Monsieur de Chanel in its earlier iterations, including the original model in “beige” gold and more recent version in ceramic and marble. They were all clean, stylish, and mostly monochromatic – and equipped with a sophisticated, attractive movement. The Superleggera Edition has the same movement, but the style is the opposite. It has a techno-automotive style that tries a bit too hard for my tastes. While the texturing and scales have a clear automotive inspiration, they don’t add much to the visual appeal of the watch. Ironically, the inspiration for the new Monsieur, the J12 Superleggera of 2005, actually looks more streamlined, despite being a chronograph. Still, the Monsieur Superleggera probably like a fancy bodykit for a car – it’ll divide opinions. Anyone who finds the plainer Monsieur boring would applaud this. Superleggera  Italian for “super light”, Superleggera was an Italian coachbuilder that specialised in lightweight automobile bodies comprising a tubular steel frame cover in thin, aluminium-alloy panels. Perhaps the most famous automobile w...

The RZE Valour delivers a titanium build and head-turning looks for a great price Time+Tide
Aug 6, 2021

The RZE Valour delivers a titanium build and head-turning looks for a great price

Although RZE would consider themselves “modern vintage”, the Valour just oozes retro charm, with its most modern traits being its quality, technological upgrades and colour schemes. Pushing forward compelling watches in titanium really puts RZE firmly in a value niche, expertly navigating the lines around originality and quirkiness. The case The RZE Valour doesn’t shy … ContinuedThe post The RZE Valour delivers a titanium build and head-turning looks for a great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Massena Lab Refreshes the Uni-Racer with Fun Colours SJX Watches
Massena Lab Refreshes Jul 26, 2021

Massena Lab Refreshes the Uni-Racer with Fun Colours

Massena Lab is a design studio that got its start collaborating with independent watchmakers on limited edition timepieces. But the firm more recently unveiled watches under its own label, starting with last year’s Uni-Racer, a chronograph modelled on the mid-20th century Universal Genève “Big Eye” chronograph. Founded by William Rohr, best known for being the former manager of the Timezone.com watch forum, Massena Lab follows up with the Uni-Racer Holiday Collection, a trio of chronographs time clad in funky colours with a retro bent that bring to mind watches of the 1970s. Initial thoughts Vintage remakes have been trendy for several years now, and the sheer number of them mean they are often hit-or-miss. It’s rare for a remake to get the details right ­­– especially since the case and movement are modern ­– something that takes a keen eye to decide what to copy and what to tweak. Mr Rohr’s creations often get the details right – the two-tone sector dial jumping seconds and gilt dial chronograph are cases in point – reflecting his decades of watch collecting. And importantly they are fairly priced. But the Uni-Racer Chronograph stands out from Massena Lab’s portfolio to date. Not only was it the first watch to bear the Massena Lab brand, but it was a near-exact copy of the vintage original – which split opinions and elicited lots of vocal critiques on social media. Uni-Racer “Rally” Still, for anyone who appreciates old-school design, ...

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Custom Watch Beatmaker SRPH19K Time+Tide
Seiko Custom Watch Beatmaker SRPH19K Jul 20, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Custom Watch Beatmaker SRPH19K

When it comes to evaluating a new watch, many of us play the “what if” game. What if the watch had a blue dial? What if it had a grey bezel? The new Seiko Custom Watch Beatmaker SRPH19K puts that idea into action with a new limited-edition design chosen by fans of the brand worldwide. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Custom Watch Beatmaker SRPH19K appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Harry Winston Unveils the Project Z15 SJX Watches
Jul 20, 2021

Harry Winston Unveils the Project Z15

Launched in 2004, the Project Z is Harry Winston’s flagship series within its Ocean line of sports watches, defined by the aluminium-zirconium alloy used for the cases known as Zalium. Traditionally dominated by chronographs and dual time zones, as is typical for a sports watch, the Project Z collection now is now joined by one of the most unusual models to date, the Project Z15. The new model boasts a gently upgraded design and novel mechanics, especially for a sports watch – a regulator-style time display with retrograde seconds, set against a skeletonised dial inspired by New York City’s Art Deco architecture. Initial thoghts Like its elder siblings, the Project Z15 is masculine in style but muted in colour, all about symmetry and clean, geometric lines, which results in a techno-industrial look that’ll appeal to someone who wants an interesting but understated sports watch. The new Z15 is a first for the brand in having a regulator-style display, which means the hours, minutes, and seconds hand indicated on separate axes arranged in a vertical line. The layout is not only vertically symmetrical, it improves readability, as much as possible for an open-worked, regulator dial. Most notable is the retrograde 30-second display, which means the seconds hand returns to zero twice a minute, creating near-constant action on the dial. Interestingly, the skeletonised bridges on the dial finished with a simple, linear graining, giving the face a look that brings to min...

There’s a new Tank in town: The Longines DolceVita adds sector dials to its range Time+Tide
Longines DolceVita adds sector dials Jul 17, 2021

There’s a new Tank in town: The Longines DolceVita adds sector dials to its range

Earlier this year, Longines added two new Art Deco sector dialled automatic watches to their DolceVita Collection. The collection is the brand’s answer to a classically styled Tank-shaped watch. These new iterations translated the design of their Heritage Classic Sector Dial into the more dressy confines of a DolceVita. As the watches have started to … ContinuedThe post There’s a new Tank in town: The Longines DolceVita adds sector dials to its range appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Seiko Presage Studio Ghibli Castle in The Sky offers vintage delights with an animated twist Time+Tide
Seiko Presage Studio Ghibli Castle Jul 17, 2021

The Seiko Presage Studio Ghibli Castle in The Sky offers vintage delights with an animated twist

Studio Ghibli is a Japanese national treasure in the world of anime with a vast output of traditional animated films. Each one is a very Japanese, deeply immersive experience populated by creatures that would never have made it past a Disney focus group and propelled by a decidedly less commercial set of values. The Seiko … ContinuedThe post The Seiko Presage Studio Ghibli Castle in The Sky offers vintage delights with an animated twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The mesmerising dial of the icy blue Grand Seiko SBGY007 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGY007 Grand Seiko has Jul 13, 2021

VIDEO: The mesmerising dial of the icy blue Grand Seiko SBGY007

Grand Seiko has continually dazzled us this past year with a variety of strong releases. Each reference upholds the brand’s grammar of design, a winning formula to produce highly technical and aesthetic timepieces. One of the most well-known designs is the Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake, a modern classic within the catalogue. But while revered, some … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The mesmerising dial of the icy blue Grand Seiko SBGY007 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The IWC Big Pilot 43 shrinks in size but not impact Time+Tide
IWC Big Pilot 43 shrinks Jul 11, 2021

HANDS-ON: The IWC Big Pilot 43 shrinks in size but not impact

The evolution of an iconic design is interesting. How do designers keep something fresh, without losing the identity that made it an icon in the first place? Be it the iPhone, the Porsche 911 or the Nik Air Jordan sneaker, it’s a challenge that organisations around the world struggle with and this year IWC took … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The IWC Big Pilot 43 shrinks in size but not impact appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The IWC Big Pilot 43 gives an iconic watch a modern upgrade Time+Tide
IWC Big Pilot 43 gives Jul 9, 2021

VIDEO: The IWC Big Pilot 43 gives an iconic watch a modern upgrade

The IWC Big Pilot is not quite so big anymore. That’s right, the new IWC Big Pilot 43 is now a full 3mm smaller in diameter compared to the previous 46mm generation, but doesn’t lose any of the impact that it has on the wrist. The iconic pilot’s watch has been updated to become more … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The IWC Big Pilot 43 gives an iconic watch a modern upgrade appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Minase Divido Urushi Maki-e is a futuristic window to an ancient Japanese craft Time+Tide
Minase Jul 1, 2021

The Minase Divido Urushi Maki-e is a futuristic window to an ancient Japanese craft

At a time when most people gravitate towards modern sports watches or the tempting flavours of vintage nostalgia, there’s a path less crowded, where you will find small manufacturers like Minase. With a round two-piece watch case like few others, Zaratsu-finished angles, and sharp Japanese design, The Minase Divido Urushi Maki-e, is a fascinating world … ContinuedThe post The Minase Divido Urushi Maki-e is a futuristic window to an ancient Japanese craft appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Seiko Presage Style 60’s is a slick everyday watch with a dapper edge Time+Tide
Seiko Presage Style 60’s Jun 30, 2021

VIDEO: The Seiko Presage Style 60’s is a slick everyday watch with a dapper edge

The new Seiko Presage Style 60’s range may be initially confusing. The inspiration lies in their 1964 Seiko Crown Chronograph, except that this new imagining doesn’t have a chrono pusher or a stopwatch function at all. Instead we have a slim, stylish interpretation in a three-hand elegant 40.8mm case, and all the right vintage cues. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Seiko Presage Style 60’s is a slick everyday watch with a dapper edge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Introduces the Next-Generation El Primero A386 SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jun 29, 2021

Zenith Introduces the Next-Generation El Primero A386

Though Zenith celebrated the 50th anniversary of its iconic chronograph movement in 2019, it took a while longer for the long-awaited successor to the original El Primero. Looking like yet another remake on the surface – the design is almost a dead ringer for the A386 of 1969 – the retro styling of the new Chronomaster Original belies the latest-generation El Primero, the all-new cal. 3600 that boasts a lightning seconds hand. Initial thoughts The Chronomaster Original essentially repackages the vintage A386, preserving the distinctive design while installing a modern movement. As a result, the watch is familiar and appealing in broad strokes, but has a few surprises in its details. Take the dials for instance, which are offered in two guises. One is the traditional “tri-colour” from 1969, while the other is an unusual and gorgeous “panda” dial that stands out from its counterparts. Ironically, the black-and-silver dial looks more retro, in part due to the faux-vintage lume, despite not having the original colour palette. The case is a compact 38 mm, identical to the vintage original. It’s heartening – but surprising – to see the return of the 38 mm case, which was ostensibly retired not too long ago. The move back to the 38 mm case makes sense, since it accommodates enthusiasts who prefer a size true to the vintage original, as well as catering to prevailing fad for classical, elegant style. Despite the case being the same diameter as it was in 1969, t...

Seiko Introduces the Presage Studio Ghibli with an Enamel Dial SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Jun 28, 2021

Seiko Introduces the Presage Studio Ghibli with an Enamel Dial

Seiko has long incorporated Japan’s unique pop culture into its watches – from Gundam to Street Fighter – and now it’s turned to the legendary anime film studio behind hits like Spirited Away. The Presage Studio Ghibli Castle In The Sky is inspired by the 1986 anime film about a pair of children protecting a magic crystal from government agents. Despite the cartoon inspiration, the new Presage has a classical design with Breguet hands, a fired-enamel dial – and no date window. Initial thoughts The Castle in the Sky edition gets a few things right. It combines a few specialties of Seiko – the fired enamel dial, Japanese pop culture, and a modern, workhorse movement – all for under US$1,500. That said, the mid-range price is novel for a collaborative model in this vein, since the brand’s earlier crossover editions were either priced substantially higher (as a Grand Seiko) or lower (a Seiko 5). Also notable is the no-date dial. While Seiko has long offered enamel dials in affordable watches, it usually installs a date function on the three-hand models, perhaps a concession to the brand’s focus on fuss-free practicality for its watches. Leaving out the date is not only significant from a philosophical standpoint – perhaps it’s an admission the design matters more than its utility – but the omission of a date aperture makes for a higher quality look. The date window never looked good, especially since the aperture revealed the relatively rough edges...

The new Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis collection is spectacular watchmaking in a blaze of colour Time+Tide
Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis collection Jun 26, 2021

The new Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis collection is spectacular watchmaking in a blaze of colour

Hublot seldom disappoints when it comes to a summer barrage of colours and materials, and the new MP-09 collection is here to prove the point. Hublot’s MP-series represents the pure spirit of the maison as each is a Manufacture Piece, showcasing the outer limits of materiality and design. To be honest, most of Hublot’s normal … ContinuedThe post The new Hublot MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis collection is spectacular watchmaking in a blaze of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 of the best environmentally friendly watches on the market right now Time+Tide
Chopard Jun 26, 2021

5 of the best environmentally friendly watches on the market right now

“Environmentally friendly” isn’t a phrase that immediately comes to mind when you think of the watch industry. Craftsmanship, passion and heritage might be more likely answers in a word association game with your psychologist. But that doesn’t mean that there aren’t parts of the industry that are genuinely doing their bit. Chopard is well-known for … ContinuedThe post 5 of the best environmentally friendly watches on the market right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.