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Quill & Pad
Since its beginning, RGM has created dials and movement components to manufacture its watches. Over the years, the brand has expanded its capabilities bit by bit, adding machinery, technology, and personnel in an effort to have greater control over production and to expand its design and engineering options. Follow us on a tour of the RGM workshop in Mount Joy, Pennsylvania.
Time+Tide
The first time I held the Seiko Prospex SNR045J in my hands, I laughed, turned to my left, and said to Deputy Editor Nick Kenyon, “What on earth is this?” To describe the limited edition dive watch as evocative is more than an understatement – it conjures up many, many thoughts in my mind, scrambles … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko Prospex SNR045J is like a Rolex “Hulk” Submariner on steroids appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Fifteen years after its original launch, the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone gets a mechanical upgrade in the form of a new caliber that includes a daylight savings time indication among other new features. Elizabeth Doerr looks at the Lange 1 Time Zone's evolution and what's so very special about this new model.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi officially opened on July 20, a milestone in its independence as a standalone watch brand. Having been spun off from Seiko in 2017, Grand Seiko now has its own workshop, just beside the Seiko Instruments Incorporated (SII) facility where it was once located. “The Nature of Time” Grand Seiko recruited Kengo Kuma, the noted Japanese architect behind Tokyo’s National Stadium built for the 2020 Olympics and the interior of Grand Seiko’s Paris boutique, for its new workshop. The Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi was conceived to embody the brand’s ideology, “The Nature of Time”, with the structure coexisting with the surrounding landscape, while utilising natural materials. A material “greener” than conventional construction materials, wood is used for the structural elements and flooring of the clean room. “To balance natural materials with the room’s high technology technical requirements was a new and intriguing task,” noted Mr Kuma in the announcement. The result is one that sharply contrasts with the typical production workshop that is clinical-looking. In addition to the natural materials used in its construction, the studio is also operated with sustainability in mind. For instance, carbon dioxide emissions are monitored and minimised, while wastewater is recycled. At the same time, the company is working to preserve biodiversity in its local area, including by erecting and maintaining bird and squirrel houses. Gr...
Time+Tide
The summer watch is a category as important as pilot’s watch or doctor’s watch, but without the historically derived definition that comes from a serious professional context. A loose definition might include a watch that needs to be robust, waterproof and easy to read after five Aperol Spritzes, but it also needs to be fun … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer “Tortoise Shell” ain’t like your Granny’s glasses… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The new PanoLunarTourbillon by Glashütte Original is an elegant limited edition of 25 pieces featuring a hand-engraved dial, a flying tourbillon, and skeleton hands.
SJX Watches
One of Longines’ longest-lived vintage remakes, the Type A-7 was inspired by a 1930s aviator’s chronograph made for the US Army Air Corps. Having been offered with a white dial, and also a bronze-case limited edition, the Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935 now makes its debut in a guise closest to the vintage original. Initial thoughts The earlier version of the Type A-7 was already a likeable watch. Affordably priced and well designed, the Type A-7 managed to much convey the look of the original without being a one-for-one remake. And in contrast to the first-generation remake that was 49 mm in diameter – essentially the same size as the vintage original – the Type A-7 was a wearable 41 mm. But the faux-vintage “lume” was a bit much, and the white lacquer finish of the dial took away some of the military-instrument aesthetic. The Type A-7 with a white dial that was introduced in 2016 The new Type A-7 remedies all of that with a black dial and less-pronounced colour for the Super-Luminova. Though it still has a date window that gets in the way of the design, the new Type A-7 still works well and remains a strong value buy. As an aside, Longines did make a similar-looking, limited edition Type A-7 for the American market two years ago that did away with the date display. Off the vertical The vintage original had a dial rotated 40 degrees from the vertical, in order to allow pilots to read the time or operate the chronograph without taking their hands off the control ...
WatchAdvice
The modern gentleman is someone who tries to experience life to the fullest. For some, the glory is the destination, but for others who truly experience life, it’s about the journey reaching that destination and the many different experiences that come along the way. Always being open to trying new things, the modern man finds innovative ways to get the most out of his life. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Collection released in 2018 was created to complement this lifestyle by being an elegant yet sporty watch that can do it all. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Polaris Collection was inspired by their iconic Memovox Polaris watch from 1968. The Polaris Collection will join the brands’ exiting pillars which consist of; Reverso, Master Collection, Rendez-vous, Duometre and Hybris Mechanica. Jaeger-LeCoultre, however, didn’t only create one timepiece as a homage to the 1968 Memovox Polaris. They used the aesthetics, design cues and spirit of the 1968 timepiece to bring to life five new timepieces that form the overall Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Collection. These timepieces are the three-hand automatic, chronograph, chronograph world time and two models that have very close ties to the original Memovox Polaris; the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox. What we have on our hands is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph in steel. The Polaris Chronograph comes in three variants; black dial, blue dial and a pink gold version. The black and blue dials a...
Time+Tide
LVMH’s Dubai Watch Week may have been only seven months ago, but it genuinely feels like it could’ve been last century. Cast your mind back those long, long … long seven months, though, and there seemed to be a general consensus among punters and professional hacks alike that there was one novelty that eclipsed all … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo 100m in satin-polished stainless steel is simply extraordinary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre and MR PORTER announces the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife watch which is specially adapted for new movie - The King’s Man.
Time+Tide
Since 1948, Omega have been perfecting their formula for conquering the sea. What began as a splash-proof dress watch, quickly spiralled into a race for innovation amongst Switzerland’s finest as to who could plunge the deepest depths and still tell the time. The Seamaster line is Omega’s crown jewel in technical achievement and design, with … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Omega Planet Ocean Vs. the Omega Seamaster 300, is there a winner? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) teamed up with online menswear purveyor Mr Porter to create a wristwatch for the upcoming retro spy film The King’s Man, where the heroes are mainly sharply-dressed spies with canes and signet rings. Set in the years before the First World War, the film doubtlessly called for a watch that is seemingly period-correct – yet obviously one that would appeal to the today’s consumer. The result is the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch, a razor-thin, 4.25 mm wristwatch that takes inspiration from a vintage ultra-thin pocket watch. Initial thoughts At a glance, the watch might seem like a conventional but handsome dress watch. But the case design is outstanding – and compared to JLC’s recent creations, dramatically different. The case is round with a wide, double-stepped bezel, a feature that gives it an old-school, classic feel. And the stepped bezel also adds presence so that the case doesn’t look too flat. And more unusually, the crown is at 12 o’clock and protected by a triangular bow. And the reason for the crown position is the fact that the watch is essentially a pocket watch with lugs. The origins of the design lie in a 1907 Jaeger-LeCoultre pocket watch, nicknamed “couteau” – French for “knife” – after its thin case with a sharp edge. That said, the “couteau” pocket watch is arguably more widely associated with Cartier, which relied on LeCoultre movements for its watches, which were made by the European Watch & C...
Hodinkee
Our senior editor talks about his decade-and-a-half in watches – and why you need to learn to make chicken rice at home.
Time+Tide
Whether you are a fan of the Joe Rogan podcast or not, he sure does have some interesting guests sit across from him, sometimes for up to four hours. Last month, Kevin Hart was sitting across from Joe for just over 2 hours in episode #1480, and in that time, he shared some insights into … ContinuedThe post 5 inspiring lessons in life from Kevin Hart, delivered wearing an openworked Audemars Piguet Royal Oak to die for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Perhaps the most recognisable Panerai is the Luminor Marina 44 mm. A modern-day creation inspired by a vintage military-issue watch, the Luminor Marina was introduced in 1993, and a decade later became one of the watches that kickstarted the fashion for bigger watches. While the Luminor Marina was historically all about black dials for a no-nonsense military look, Panerai has been injected more colour into the line up for a civilian-friendly style. The new Luminor Blu Mare 44 mm PAM01085 – blu mare translate as “blue sea” – retains the traditional design codes of the Luminor plus a fashionable blue dial. Initial thoughts While earlier Luminor models like the PAM1663 and the PAM1033 have had blue dials, but the new Luminor is arguably the cleanest, harking back to the entry-level Luminor Marina “Logo” of about a decade ago. The blue is metallic, subdued and finished with a radial-brushed finish that’ll definitely catch the light nicely. A colour that’s been in vogue for a couple of years, the blue dial gives the Luminor Blu Mare a slightly more elegant and contemporary feel than the typical Panerai, a useful quality for someone who likes the functional Panerai design but prefers lighter colour palette. The design, however, is strictly traditional. With the vintage originals designed as functional instruments for navy frogmen of the Second World War, the new Luminor is expectedly utilitarian, with large, eminently simple hands and indices – very much the ...
Deployant
This week, we explore recommendations for the entry level collector. Selections from Swatch, Luminox, Casio, Citizen, Seiko and Tissot.
Hodinkee
Good enough for you, me, and the MoD.
Quill & Pad
Nineteenth-century French horologist Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, a man now famous as the father of modern magic, inspired Cartier to begin dabbling in mystery clocks in 1912. And the famous brand has never stopped as a 2018 exhibition showing 19 historical mystery clocks so richly illustrated.
Quill & Pad
Aston Martin was originally partnered with Jaeger-LeCoultre for 12 years before moving on to first Richard Mille then TAG Heuer. During that dozen years, the JLC Amvox line produced some very interesting timepieces. Here, Elizabeth Doerr provides background to the the sporty Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox line and lists off every single creation introduced in it during that time.
Deployant
The Chief Editor/Photographer shares his philosophy for a dual camera system approach to shooting watches, and muses over replacements for his cameras.
SJX Watches
Contemporary yet traditional, the Pano collection has been a staple of Glashütte Original’s offerings. The latest Pano wristwatch is a departure from the line’s typically clean styling – the PanoLunarTourbillon Limited Edition. Limited to 25 watches with a platinum case, the new watch is a variant the standard tourbillon model, dressed up with impeccable engraving on the dial and movement. Initial thoughts With hand-engraved filigree decoration across the dial (and movement, this is easily one of the most attractive in the Pano collection, more so than the standard PanoLunarTourbillon. Similar to the decoration usually found only on the balance cock of Glashütte Original movements, the engraving is made up of pronounced lines and a complex pattern, giving the watch a markedly different character from the standard model. The hand engraving was executed in Glashütte Original’s dial factory in Pforzheim And the look is further enhanced by the metallic blue of panorama date, hands, indices and moon phase, a blue-on-silver livery that provides a sharp and elegant contrast. While the look is elegantly ornate, it’s a big watch, clocking in at 40 mm wide and 13.10 mm tall, probably a bit too big for a watch of this style. The case size suits contemporary tastes, but something thinner and perhaps 38 mm in diameter would work better with the design. German aesthetic Underneath the decoration, the watch is identical to the standard PanoLunarTourbillon. It retains the a...
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. debuted its inaugural sporty watch in 2015 with the Pioneer Centre Seconds (and followed up recently with the even more sporty Streamliner). Now Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red with a red fumé dial joins the line up. Both the colour and name are inspired by the original Swiss Mad watch of 2017, which took its colours from the Swiss national flag. Initial thoughts As is typical of Moser’s fumé finish, the dial is immediately gripping. The graduated, smoked finish results in a colour that varies in shade depending on lighting and perspective, which adds a lot of visual appeal. Though graduated-colour dials were not invented by Moser, it has become synonymous with the brand. Moser has presented fumé dials in green and many shades of blue, but bold red finish is perhaps the most enticing to date. Although the Pioneer is technically a sports watch, the elegant styling of the dial does not translate well onto such the large, almost-43 mm case, which definitely wears and looks large on the wrist. I would have preferred a case of say, 38 mm, large enough to be a sports watch, while still complimenting the dial. Minimalism While the colour is striking, the watch itself is minimalist and no-frills in the usual Moser style, displaying only the time without any superfluous elements on the dial. Still, the dial manages to incorporate several details that add to the appeal, including faceted markers, open-worked hands, and luminous dots on the flange. De...
Deployant
Parmigiani Fleurier refreshes its Tonda collection to create a sportier, everyday watch, and announces two new variants. An automatic time only watch called the Tonda GT and a chronograph known as the Tondagraph GT. Press Release Tonda GT Line – design cues Parmigiani Fleurier is proud to announce the new Tonda GT. The Maison’s dressRead More
Time+Tide
Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch of 2020 didn’t go down quite as well as the complicated models that have followed this week to practically unanimous praise. By contrast, the Calatrava Ref.6007A-001, limited to just 1000 pieces and made to celebrate the legacy brand’s new manufacture was met with many more brickbats than bouquets. Why? Well, according … ContinuedThe post A design that divides – the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref.6007A-001 meets its lookalikes head on appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
The nature of time. At first glance, the phrase reads as if some form of pseudo philosophical jargon, the kind of slogan born in the Grand Seiko PR departments internship program. That is, until you hold a Grand Seiko in your hands, until you feel the piece and experience the brands physical manifestation of their philosophy. For the past week or so, I have been taking a look at the Grand Seiko SBGM221 GMT. A watch from the Elegance line of Grand Seiko, and for that week I have found myself both enamoured and underwhelmed by the nature of this timepiece. As a brand, Grand Seiko prides itself in their craftsmanship, they have been heralded for the famed Ziratsu polish, and admired for the intricacy and complexity of their dials. So it should be noted right away, the finishing and construction of the SBGM221 is first class. The watch has clearly been held to a very high standard during production, nothing is out of place, nothing is even remotely undercooked. The SBGM221 spans a precise 39.5mm in diameter by an equally precise 13.7mm thick. Lug to lug the watch measures 46.3mm, this is achieved by the use of dramatically yet elegantly down curving lugs which hug the piece on to your wrist. I have a wrist size of 17.5cm and found the piece was right in the sweet spot of comfort for me personally, the watch could comfortably be worn down to as little as 15cm due primarily to the curvature of the lugs. The case of the SBGM221 is where I found the most wonder within the watc...
SJX Watches
Just days after the Swatch Group posted dismal half-year results, Richemont reported predictably poor sales for its first quarter, with revenue falling 47% to €1.99 billion compared to a year earlier. Like its rival the Swatch Group, Richemont was hit hard by the COVID-19 pandemic. The owner of almost two dozen watch and jewellery brands, including Cartier, IWC and Panerai, suffered from widespread store and distribution centre closures, a worldwide halt in tourism, and dampened consumer interest in many of markets, although China was a bright spot. Degrees of resilience The group’s business across the world was affected to varying degrees from region to region, depending on a combination of factors, namely the duration of closures, tourist spending, and spending of the domestic buyers. Although Richemont reported double-digit sales declines across all regions, distribution channels and business areas, the decreases were less pronounced in the Middle East, Africa, and Asia Pacific – the latter benefitted from a 47% year-on-year growth in sales in China, which exited its lockdown earlier than the rest of the world. China’s performance helped keep sales in the Asia Pacific resilient, to a degree. Sales in the region decreased by 29% at actual exchange rates to €277m, declining in all Asian markets, except China. Amongst the hardest hit were Japan and the Americas, where sales dropped 62% and 60% respectively due to widespread closure. The 2020 Cartier Privé Tank...
Revolution
The Tudor Heritage Black Bay has been a runaway success since its introduction in 2012, and takes inspiration from vintage Submariner watches from the 50s, 60s and 70s.
SJX Watches
Despite being only 18 years old, De Bethune has managed to create a surprisingly large number of unique and emblematic case designs, along with a slew of complications and movement innovations. But its signature case design is probably the DB28, a large, thin watch with a pair of sprung, pivoted lugs. For the 10th anniversary of the DB28, De Bethune has slimmed it down to create the DB28XP. Significantly thinner and slightly more wearable, the DB28XP is still instantly recognisable for what it is. Dial detail of the DB28XP Starry Sky Initial thoughts The DB28XP is a smartly conceived watch because it manages to capture everything that made the DB28 special, except in a thinner case that feels more refined and is clearly more elegant. The original DB28 wasn’t excessively thick, but the DB28XP is substantially thinner, thin enough it feels a little like a sci-fi dress watch. The DB28XP wears sleek and light, with the “floating” lugs hugging the wrist comfortably, while the aesthetic is clearly quintessential De Bethune, which means polished or heat-blued titanium. And though it’s slimmer than the original, the DB28XP is still executed to the same level of quality, down to the smallest of details. The teeth of the barrel ratchet wheel of the movement are polished, for instance, while the hands are either polished titanium or pink gold, depending in the version. The original DB28 (top) and the DB28XP But the DB28XP is a little fancier than the original in design, with...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: There’s the simple fact that Seiko are turning up the heat on the Swiss watch industry, and then there’s the way they’re doing it. Both are 100% worth taking note of. For example, let’s re-examine the Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J, a high-spec Spring Drive GMT at a shade under $8000AUD, that carries with it a murdered … ContinuedThe post The Seiko Prospex LX SNR035J looks like it’s been sent to put a hit on anyone that questions its (high) price point appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
As a person who writes about and reviews timepieces all day every day, and as an avid enthusiast of horology since my mid-teens, there really isn’t too much that surprises me anymore in the watch world. Very few watches have the ability to stop me in my tracks, or, for lack of a better word, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale is peak heritage watch perfection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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