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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

HANDS-ON: Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato in steel – is it a steal? Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux s Laureato Jan 25, 2017

HANDS-ON: Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato in steel – is it a steal?

Let’s get this out of the way early on. Does the Girard-Perregaux Laureato share some visual similarities with other well-known luxury steel sports watches? Sure, but we can easily think of half a dozen watches that fit that particular bill. AP and Patek don’t have a monopoly on ’70s design. And make no mistake, the Laureato … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato in steel – is it a steal? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Maurice de Mauriac Releases their Latest Tennis Themed Limited Edition Rallymaster Worn & Wound
Maurice de Mauriac 19h ago

Maurice de Mauriac Releases their Latest Tennis Themed Limited Edition Rallymaster

Maurice de Mauriac has released their latest in the ongoing Rallymaster series today. The Rallymaster has become a hit in recent years among the growing crowd of overlapping tennis and watch enthusiasts, with a string of limited editions tied to the Grand Slam tennis championships. These watches, designed by Carlton DeWoody, have a real charm to them, and honestly work better than they should given some of the more literal tennis influenced design elements. The watches have always worked though because of their whimsy and a clarity of vision that doesn’t take itself too seriously. DeWoody also has a real knack for color, and has always been able to figure out the right way to reference specific aspects of the sport without it all going completely over the top. In other words, they are just fun, nice looking watches.  The latest in the series, the Rallymaster Swiss Tennis, is perhaps a little more inside baseball for tennis fans (sorry to mix sports metaphors there). Revealed at the Swiss Open in Gstaad, the colorway is dominated by tones found in the Swiss flag, and the watch leans into Swiss tennis heritage and the country’s appreciation for the sport. Maurice de Mauriac is the official timekeeper of Swiss Tennis, the sport’s governing body in Switzerland.  The new Rallymaster features the same tennis net inspired graphic running across the center of the dial that we’ve seen in previous editions, here situated against a brushed silver dial surface. The dial is a...

Indies Only! Dreaming Up My Ideal Microbrand-Only Watch Collection Fratello
Ming Up My Ideal Microbrand-Only 5 days ago

Indies Only! Dreaming Up My Ideal Microbrand-Only Watch Collection

I have a massive soft spot for small, independent brands. That doesn’t just apply to watches. I love it when people dare to stick their necks out and chase (probably naive) dreams in real life outside of the realm of big luxury groups. The results also tend to speak to me. These brands typically follow […] Visit Indies Only! Dreaming Up My Ideal Microbrand-Only Watch Collection to read the full article.

We’re So Back! A Pair Of Seiko 5 Sports × Wind Vintage × Rowing Blazers Divers Arrives Fratello
Seiko 5 Sports × Wind 5 days ago

We’re So Back! A Pair Of Seiko 5 Sports × Wind Vintage × Rowing Blazers Divers Arrives

Today’s new watches are likely to please fans of fun, funky divers. That’s because Rowing Blazers is back with a brace of cool new Seiko 5 Sports Watches. Naturally, our friend Eric Wind of Wind Vintage has lent a hand in the design. Let’s have a look at these cool new numbers. It must be […] Visit We’re So Back! A Pair Of Seiko 5 Sports × Wind Vintage × Rowing Blazers Divers Arrives to read the full article.

Seiko, Rowing Blazers, and Eric Wind Reunite for their Fourth Limited Edition Collaboration Worn & Wound
Rolex Patek 6 days ago

Seiko, Rowing Blazers, and Eric Wind Reunite for their Fourth Limited Edition Collaboration

Rowing Blazers and Seiko have partnered on their fourth limited edition collection, and they’ve once again teamed up with vintage watch dealer Eric Wind on the design. This partnership has produced a number of hits since the first collaboration appeared in 2021, and it all comes down to an obvious synergy between the participants. Rowing Blazers, Seiko, and Wind each occupy distinct areas of watch and style culture, but they overlap in such a way that these watches make a ton of sense in context.  The new limited edition consists of two watches, each limited to 2,500 pieces, and harkens a return to the Rally Diver format the partnership began with five years ago. Available in both 38mm and 42mm diameters, the new Rally Divers are based on a Seiko 5 design from the 1960s that Wind says was both his first vintage watch purchase and a reminder of his father’s chosen daily wear watches from Wind’s childhood. It underscores something anyone who has chatted with Eric Wind for even a moment likely understands pretty intuitively, which is that while he is known professionally for dealing in blue chip vintage watches from Rolex, Patek, and others, he’s no snob when it comes to the watches he personally enjoys. His love for Seiko and accessible vintage is genuine, and this collaborative relationship has never felt forced.  The Rally Diver is defined by its checkerboard “rally” bezel, an idiosyncratic choice for a dive watch that doesn’t have an obvious connection to ...

First Look – Chopard Releases Three New Mille Miglia Classic Chronographs in Historic Racing Colours Monochrome
Chopard Releases Three New Mille Jul 6, 2026

First Look – Chopard Releases Three New Mille Miglia Classic Chronographs in Historic Racing Colours

Chopard has been the World Sponsor and Official Timekeeper of the Mille Miglia since 1988, and the collection bearing the race’s name has evolved continuously since then. This year, Chopard returns to the compact Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph design introduced in 2023 with three country-exclusive editions inspired by historic national racing colours.  The use of […]

Our Favorite Watches of 2026 (So Far) Worn & Wound
Baltic Jul 3, 2026

Our Favorite Watches of 2026 (So Far)

With the first half of 2026 in the books (seriously, how is already July?) we thought it would be a good time to check in with our writers to see what watches spoke to them this year. It’s been a busy year in terms of new releases, with major new novelties from the big brands dotting the calendar on a weekly basis even well past trade show season. But as always, our team looks to smaller makers (and more obscure references from the big guns) when it comes to considering the very best.  As always, we want to know your favorites, so let us know in the comments what new 2026 releases were your favorites in the first six months of the year.  Zach Kazan It feels like this has been an exceptional year for watches. As Zach Weiss and I were preparing to record a podcast on this very topic earlier this week, my list of watches to discuss as highlights for the first half of 2026 ballooned to a point that I had to start thinking about what to cut rather than how to scramble for a few more watches to talk about. That’s a position we’ve all been in from time to time with these lists, and having a surplus of good watches to consider is a better situation by far.  That said, there’s one watch, to me, that’s a clear favorite, and that’s the collaboration between Baltic and SpaceOne, the Seconde Majeure. This is the best watch either brand has ever made, and a great example of the right way to do a collaboration. It doesn’t feel exactly like either brand, but a little like...

Business News: Breaking N3W5 - Former AP CEO Bennahmias Announces First New Watch Brand Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Chief Executive François-Henri Bennahmias Jul 1, 2026

Business News: Breaking N3W5 - Former AP CEO Bennahmias Announces First New Watch Brand

Former Audemars Piguet Chief Executive François-Henri Bennahmias unveiled details of a new watch brand called N3W5 that will launch in late 2027 and draw on some significant names from the Swiss industry for the design, production, and craftsmanship.  Called 'N3W5' - an acronym for 'North, East, West, South' and pronounced 'NEWS,' the new marque will launch at Dubai Watch Week next year, the Honourable Merchants Group, the Bennahmias-led luxury brand constellation, said in a statement. Watch prices for the first models will start at about CHF 20,000, and production will commence at 'several thousand pieces' in the first year. A second collection will debut in 2028, according to the company's plans. François-Henri Bennahmias at an event in Crissier, Switzerland, introducing The Honourable Merchants Group. The news of N3W5 comes as pressure and speculation have mounted as to what Bennahmias, who led AP for more than a decade and oversaw a period of spectacular sales growth to more than CHF 2.3 billion for the family-owned brand, would do next in the watch world. At a flashy event near Lausanne last year, Bennahmias unveiled his vision for THMG, a new, multi-brand luxury brand group backed by private investors that promised a new philosophy of work, innovation, products, and sustainability in the luxury space. The charismatic executive said the new group would not be driven solely by profit and that at THMG, "we want to change the world of business. It is a mission," Be...

Hands On: Hermès Cape Cod Titanium SJX Watches
Hermes Jun 30, 2026

Hands On: Hermès Cape Cod Titanium

For those headed down the cape this summer, Hermès has unveiled an upscaled Cape Cod in brushed titanium. In some ways, it represents something of an ‘Offshore’ moment for the Cape Cod — a bolder, sportier version of one of the brand’s most emblematic models. While Henri d’Origny’s original 1991 design has evolved over the years to become more of a unisex concept, the latest execution is more overtly masculine than any prior variant in both size and finish. Initial thoughts Watches like the Cape Cod illustrate the strides taken by a handful of so-called ‘fashion brands’ that have successfully crossed over into watchmaking in the past few decades — Hermès is a poster child of this movement. The brand’s original designs — especially its emphasis on details like typography — and high-end movements have enabled it to make significant inroads with serious collectors, to say nothing of its broader success with its primary clientele. Despite the light weight of the 41 mm titanium case, the upscaled Cape Cod has substantial wrist presence on account of its design, which emphasises the lug-to-lug distance — perhaps a bit too much. But thanks in part to its monochromatic case and dial — the vivid orange seconds hand is the only pop of colour — the personality of the Cape Cod transforms easily with a strap change. Despite the strength of the Hermès brand and the obvious quality of the Cape Cod, the watch is priced well at US$7,900. That’s significan...

Hands-On With A. Lange & Sohne’s 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Pink Gold WatchAdvice
A. Lange & Sohne s 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Jun 29, 2026

Hands-On With A. Lange & Sohne’s 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Pink Gold

A. Lange & Söhne’s 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar brings together high complications, vintage-inspired design and a stunning pink-gold dial in one deeply romantic expression of haute horlogerie! What We Love Traditional pocket watch inspired vintage case design Pink gold dial suits this model perfectly and captures it in the best light Two romantic high-complications of rattrapante and perpetual calendar are showcased beautifully What We Don’t No lume for low-light legibility The case thickness may be large for some This classic pocket-watch inspired design may not be practical for daily wear Overall Rating: 9.4 / 10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar is one of those timepieces that immediately reminds you why the Saxon manufacture is held in such high regard. It brings together so much of what makes German watchmaking special, but does so in a way that leaves you genuinely in awe. I recently did a video on this watch, sharing my thoughts on what makes it so special, and my opinion still has not changed: this is easily one of my top three favourite models from the brand. But enough of me drooling over it, let’s get into what makes this timepiece so remarkable. The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar was first introduced in 2013 as a milestone in Lange’s modern chronograph history. As the name suggests, the timepiece brings together a rat...

Introducing: Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces A Smaller, 40mm Polaris Date Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Jun 24, 2026

Introducing: Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces A Smaller, 40mm Polaris Date

What We Know If the current generation of Jaeger-LeCoultre's Polaris didn't quite do it for you, namely in the 42mm case sizes across the board in the Polaris lineup, this new 40mm version of the Polaris Date might just be a more compelling option. The new 40mm steel case is not only smaller in diameter, but actually thinner too, measuring 12.9mm compared to 13.92mm with the 42mm casing. No, it doesn't make for a slim time-and-date watch, but it's still an improvement for the sporty case. The new diameter, paired with an already compact lug profile, means that this version of the Polaris should be quite wearable for an even smaller subset of wrists now. Dial-wise, this 40mm Polaris Date uses the same lacquered fumé blue dial as the 42mm version, with a dramatically gradient sunray-brushed center section surrounded by a snailed minutes track and an outer grained section for the applied markers and date window. The inner bezel, complete with orange accents, is controlled through the second crown at 4 o'clock and can be used to track elapsed time. But while the dial doesn't offer anything new in the way of color, there are actually two small details modified from the 42mm version that I think are major improvements.  First is the positioning of the Jaeger-LeCoultre logo, now placed in the center brushed section rather than crammed right underneath the "12" markers in the 42mm version. And thankfully, "Automatique" is now gone from the dial, leaving only "Swiss Made" at the ...

Introducing: Amida Digitrend OSII Black - Now With Lume (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Jun 23, 2026

Introducing: Amida Digitrend OSII Black - Now With Lume (Live Pics)

What We Know Amida keeps finding new ways to update and reinvent the classic Digitrend driving watch. When we last heard from the brand, they had fashioned a model inspired by the NASA space shuttle missions, a timepiece that demonstrated the range of design and development possibilities of the Digitrend format, which first debuted in the pre-shuttle era way back in 1976 at Basel.  Now, it seems, Amida has seen the light. Or rather, it's seen the way to add luminescence material to an open-worked version of the digital jump hour timepiece with the Digitrend OSII Black. Featuring an open sapphire hood showing the DLC-coated workings of the movement and Amida's in-house developed jump hour module, the new model uses an LRD or 'light reflecting display' utilizing prismatic technology that illuminates the digital numerals via Super-LumiNova, for the first time.  The Digitrend has never been a watch for everyone. It's quirky, and its time-reading display is unusual, to say the least. But the addition of lume certainly adds to its functionality and represents a welcome upgrade for this new edition that is limited to 150 pieces and goes on sale today on Amida's website.  The brand and co-founder Matthieu Allègre say the ongoing improvements, revisions, and tweaks to the Digitrend model line shouldn't be seen as merely more refined or robust versions of the original. Rather, they're designing and producing the model as it would have evolved had the original brand not been am...

Watches & Wonders Announces 2027 Dates and New Exhibitors SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Tudor Jun 23, 2026

Watches & Wonders Announces 2027 Dates and New Exhibitors

Watches & Wonders, the world’s most important luxury watch fair, will return in 2027 from April 5-11 in its traditional venue of Palexpo, the cavernous exhibition complex beside Geneva’s airport. The event takes place over a week, with Monday to Thursday being invite-only days open to members of the trade, while Friday and the weekend are ticketed public days. All of the major luxury brands will return for the fair, including Rolex, Patek Philippe, Tudor, and Chanel, alongside a range of independent marques. But 2027 will also see new exhibitors, including Breitling, Gallet and Universal Genève, the trio that make up the House of Brands, the entity set up to contain the three brands led by Georges Kern. Notably, niche Italian jeweller Damiani will also exhibit at W&W; 2027, joining giants like Cartier, Bulgari, and Van Cleef & Arpels.  

Breitling, Universal Genève, and Gallet Join Watches & Wonders 2027 Worn & Wound
Breitling Universal Genève Jun 23, 2026

Breitling, Universal Genève, and Gallet Join Watches & Wonders 2027

As the summer begins, next year’s Watches & Wonders (and the larger trade show agenda) is beginning to take shape. News broke this morning that Watches & Wonders will be adding several new brands to their show, which is slated for April 5-11 in Geneva, and will once again be held at Palexpo. The big story is that House of Brands, the new group fronted by Georges Kern including Breitling, Universal Geneve, and Gallet, will have space at Watches & Wonders 2027. Breitling has never participated in Watches & Wonders, but for as long as the show has existed, the brand has held parallel events in Geneva or events timed just before the show itself. Now they will be in the thick of it, along with their two sibling brands in a newly formed luxury group, each sitting at different ends of the market. We covered Universal Geneve’s return here. Gallet, to this point, has not made any announcements as far as products or availability, but they are expected to sit at a price point a tier below Breitling.  The Breitling news comes a week after the surprise announcement of an entirely new show to be held in Basel next year. The new fair, Basilia, is set to debut in April and is a product of MCH Group and Informa Markets. According to a press release, Basilia expects to attract more than 400 exhibitors, including “manufacturers, designers, brands, retailers, wholesalers, distributors and sourcing specialists from around the world.” No word yet on any specific brands that have signed...

Ulysse Nardin Debuts a New Generation of Freak X Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin Debuts Jun 19, 2026

Ulysse Nardin Debuts a New Generation of Freak X

One of the more interesting phenomenons in higher end watches is taking a bold, brash, complex design and deciding to make it simpler and more streamlined. You could argue that this goes against the whole point of such a design, but of course it’s a way for a brand to draw additional, perhaps less adventurous, customers. It also makes for a watch that is more approachable from a financial perspective as well, which is an additional added benefit if you’re trying to grow your customer base of exotic watch buyers used to six figure Super Watches.  The Freak X is maybe my favorite example of this. It begs the impossible question: what is a more sedate Freak, exactly, and why would we want one? I’m a huge Freak fan. It’s importance in the avant-garde and independent watchmaking world simply cannot be underestimated. But, I think we all have to admit, it’s a tough watch to get your arms around in its traditional Freak form. It’s crownless, dial-less, hand-less, and is that rare watch that truly does need a bit of an explainer to the uninitiated. It’s not immediately intuitive. The Freak X attempts to solve this by cloaking the Freak in the guise of a normal watch, at least to the extent that’s even possible.  Ulysse Nardin has just introduced a new generation of the Freak X, coinciding with the Freak’s 25th anniversary. It’s a complement of sorts to the Super Freak, the freakiest Freak ever, unveiled earlier this year at Watches & Wonders. The new Freak X ...

Hands On: Tudor Monarch SJX Watches
Tudor Monarch Tudor marks Jun 18, 2026

Hands On: Tudor Monarch

Tudor marks its 100th birthday by reviving the Monarch with a completely new look — one that captures the spirit of the brand’s founding decade, reinterpreted for the 21st century. The Monarch manages to be both sporty and dressy, with a distinctive design and upmarket build that proves Tudor has aspirations beyond the Black Bay. Initial thoughts Tudor turns 100 stronger than it’s ever been. The brand that once trafficked in cheaper versions of Rolex models can now bring compelling products like this to market with impressive regularity. That said, the brand tends to be at its best when it comes to sports watches like the Black Bay — what Tudor calls its ‘classic watches’ have had less market impact. In this context, the Monarch represents a major step forward for Tudor. It’s dressy without looking derivative, and robust enough for everyday wear. In short, the Monarch rules. Image – Tudor Much of Tudor’s current collection takes heavy inspiration from its deep back catalogue. That isn’t the case for the Monarch, which shares nothing with the 1990s and 2000s Monarchs save for the name and shield at 12 o’clock. Instead, the Monarch’s design celebrates the earliest years of Tudor — the 1920s — which was a transitional period in which wristwatch production had not yet equalled that of pocket watches. Watchmakers at the time weren’t yet sure what kinds of wristwatches people wanted, and the era is marked by expressive and experimental designs. Beca...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Tangente Neomatik 39 Vs. Oris Artelier Hölstein Edition 2026 Fratello
Nomos Tangente Neomatik 39 Vs Jun 14, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Tangente Neomatik 39 Vs. Oris Artelier Hölstein Edition 2026

Oh yes, indeed, it is already Sunday again! Time flies, doesn’t it? The one upside of life rushing by is that it is already time for another Sunday Morning Showdown, our weekly highlight. This week, Thomas and Daan throw two minimalist, design-first dress watches into the ring. Thomas puts forward the classic Nomos Tangente Neomatik […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Tangente Neomatik 39 Vs. Oris Artelier Hölstein Edition 2026 to read the full article.

Audemars Piguet Serves Royal Oak Offshores With Royal Pop-Style Sprinkles Fratello
Audemars Piguet Serves Royal Oak Offshores Jun 8, 2026

Audemars Piguet Serves Royal Oak Offshores With Royal Pop-Style Sprinkles

One thing is for sure: the members of the Audemars Piguet design team don’t suffer from chromophobia, the intense, irrational fear of or aversion to colors. You will find plenty of proof of that in the current lineup. The three Royal Oak Offshores with Royal Pop-style sprinkles that AP serves are an addition to the […] Visit Audemars Piguet Serves Royal Oak Offshores With Royal Pop-Style Sprinkles to read the full article.

New releases from Piaget, Hermès, Ming and more Time+Tide
Piaget Hermès Ming Jun 6, 2026

New releases from Piaget, Hermès, Ming and more

From high-profile collaborations to limited runs by design masters at very different price points, this week’s selection has plenty to unpack. We start with the technically impressive Altiplano Ultimate Automatic in a new colourway, followed by an equally remarkable Hermès Minute Repeater and a fully independent collaboration between the U.S. and Malaysia. There is much … Continued

What Makes A Truly Elegant Everyday Watch? Fratello
May 31, 2026

What Makes A Truly Elegant Everyday Watch?

Spend enough time around watch enthusiasts, and you’ll notice an interesting pattern. While discussions often revolve around the usual heavy hitters, at some point, seasoned collectors begin searching for something different. People can become tired of wearing the same pieces as everyone else. Yet, they crave an elegant everyday watch and perhaps something that prioritizes […] Visit What Makes A Truly Elegant Everyday Watch? to read the full article.

Introducing: Albishorn Type X-Graph (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Rolex Zerograph inspiration May 28, 2026

Introducing: Albishorn Type X-Graph (Live Pics)

What We Know We've featured a lot of Albishorn on Hodinkee recently, and for good reason. It's a fan-favorite brand, and, as our former head of limited editions said, it's hard to find someone who knows how to handle the technical side of watches, the design side, and pricing, all so well. The new Type X-Graph is no exception. If you want more info on the design inspiration behind the brand, you can read one of my previous stories here. But while other launches trend more vintage, this one feels a bit more modern. The Rolex "Zerograph" inspiration is obvious, with the slightly smaller dial and oversized bezel (that overhangs the case). This time, the dial pushes the look into modernity, with a semi-translucent fumé grey dial that lets you catch small glimpses of the skeletonized ALB04 M movement. But at the same time, Alibshorn was able to maintain the pebbled texture of some of their other dials. It's not a fully smoked sapphire like a Patek 5316 or a Lange Lumen, but at the price, it strikes a balance between creativity and affordability. Add the green-emission Super-LumiNova on the PVD-coated bi-directionally rotating steel bezel, and it's a cool monochrome finish. You'll notice that the watch is a chronograph with a 30-minute counter at the lower left and running seconds at the right, but right above the logo is the chronograph running indicator. It switches from red while running to white when stopped. The design of this is patented as part of the brand's modificatio...