Hodinkee
Introducing: The Glashütte Original PanoLunarInverse Limited Edition
When the moon hits your eye with an aventurine sky, that's a PanoLunarInverse.
Results for Rolex Sky-Dweller
2,634 articles · 2,792 videos found · page 92 of 181
Hodinkee
Monochrome
Buying Guide – All Eyes On The Moonphase With These Five Mechanical Marvels
The moon has fascinated mankind for millennia, and our neighbouring satellite has had a monumental impact on life. It has been detrimental in the early days of telling time, serving as a reference beacon in the sky for people around the globe. It’s no wonder then, that plenty of brands feature a miniature representation of […]
Monochrome
Introducing – A New Trio of Amber-Toned H. Moser & Cie. Exclusive Creations for Bucherer
Bucherer, the world’s leading watch retailer that recently made headlines when Rolex acquired it, has a history of collaborating with various brands to release exclusive editions, and one signature colour has consistently defined these partnerships – Bucherer Blue. Last year, this theme was showcased in a trio of remarkable timepieces from H. Moser & Cie […]
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage Tudor References
Another Friday, another list! Last week, we looked at the rarest Rolex Submariner references. This week, we have shifted our focus to Tudor. We decided to have a look at our favorite five vintage Tudor references. Most people will know the classic Submariner models, but there is plenty more to enjoy from the Tudor brand. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage Tudor References to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Insight: The Advantages of a Vertical Clutch Chronograph
The vertical clutch has become the de facto standard in modern chronograph movements thanks to its mechanical and practical benefits. The widespread and varied use of the vertical clutch is illustrated by the many recent movements that employ the mechanism, ranging from the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to the Breitling B01 to the MB&F; LM Sequential Evo. The proliferation of the vertical clutch is easily explained by its merits. Having explained the construction of a vertical clutch, we now turn to its advantages over the traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling). Figure 1: A simplified cross section of a vertical clutch A vertical clutch serves to transfer energy from the going train of the movement to the chronograph going train, accomplishing this via a vertical motion. Figure 1 illustrates its key parts: a flywheel (yellow) geared to (or even part of) the going train; a cone (grey) that is linked to the chronograph seconds mobile, and vertically tensioned by a spring (red); a pair of pincers (blue) that engage with the cone, lifting or lowering the cone. When the cone is raised and engaged with flywheel, the chronograph starts running, and when the cone drops and disengages, the chronograph stops. One of the most apparent advantage of the vertical clutch is the low kinetic friction generated during coupling and uncoupling of the chronograph, as friction is produced only by the sliding motion of the pincers and the vertical motion of the cone. The Rolex Cosmogra...
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State of the Collection 2024 | Rolex, AP, Patek, Ming, Lange, Moser, Omega + Watch Giveaway!
Fratello
The Tudor Prince Oysterdate “Jumbo” Is A Vintage Value Proposition
I am a big fan of vintage Tudor, as many of you will probably already know. Tudor, to me, is a brand that represents the very best of Hans Wilsdorf’s vision of creating mechanical excellence but without the posh baggage of Rolex. The vintage Tudor Prince Oysterdate “Jumbo” will scratch the Datejust itch but with […] Visit The Tudor Prince Oysterdate “Jumbo” Is A Vintage Value Proposition to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Arriving Soon: Lorier x Worn & Wound
Ever look up into the night sky and wonder what is out there? Or, maybe, who? Keep your eyes on the skies because the third collaboration between Lorier and Worn & Wound is arriving on September 30th at 2pm ET. You won’t want to miss this one. Get notified The post Arriving Soon: Lorier x Worn & Wound appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Explained: The Vertical Clutch of a Chronograph
Having already explained the more traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling), we now look forward to the more modern vertical clutch. This is found in some of the most famous chronographs in contemporary watchmaking, including the Rolex Daytona with the cal. 4131 (pictured above), Patek Philippe Nautilus with the CH 28-520, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph with the cal. 4401. Arguably the most advanced type of chronograph coupling mechanism, the vertical clutch as it is known today was debuted in 1969 by Seiko in the 6139 chronograph. But the concept can be found in late 19th century pocket watches, and even the inexpensive Pierce Chronographe of the 1930s. Today it is practically the default choice for new chronograph constructions. Equipped with the vertical clutch, the Patek Philippe CH 28-520 in the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1A Like its horizontal counterpart, the vertical clutch serves as the mechanical link between the chronograph mechanism and the going train of a movement, allowing power to flow from the going train to the chronograph, which then allows the chronograph to run. While it fulfils the same function, a vertical clutch works differently from the horizontal equivalent, a distinction that comes with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. How it works A chronograph vertical clutch is similar to the clutch found in the manual transmission of some automobiles. The clutch of an automobile enables the intermittent connec...
Time+Tide
Phillips Reloaded auction brings the best of neo-vintage to the market
There are a lot of stories in watches, and these four have more to say than most, with a unique Rolex, an early F.P. Journe, and more. The post Phillips Reloaded auction brings the best of neo-vintage to the market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Business News: LVMH Close to Formula 1 Sponsorship Deal
The rumours have been swirling for some months that LVMH has replaced Rolex as a key sponsor of Formula 1. As we noted in our July editorial, that wasn’t true yet. According to a source inside F1, LVMH and Formula One Group are on the cusp of a multiyear sponsorship deal starting in 2025. The French luxury group will join Lenovo and Santander as the latest sponsors of F1. Once signed, the deal will mean that LVMH takes the place of Rolex, which had been “Global Partner” of F1 since 2013. The group is not new to F1. TAG Heuer is now a sponsor of Red Bull Racing, while Dior only just signed up Lewis Hamilton as a brand ambassador. But now the group’s many brands – 75 at last count – could stand to gain even more exposure with F1. Marques like Moët & Chandon, Hublot, Loro Piana, and of course Louis Vuitton would have the chance to share in the increasing viewership of the sport, which has been steadily growing its presence in pop culture since it was acquired American media conglomerate Liberty Media in 2017. Besides adding races in glamorous cities like Miami, F1 is now the subject of a hit television series on Netflix. And a film starring Brad Pitt, titled F1 naturally, will premiere on Apple TV next year. LVMH Watch Division chief Frédéric Arnault (third from left) at the 2023 Monaco Grand Prix with the drivers of Red Bull Racing. Image – TAG Heuer TAG Heuer returns More importantly, an F1 deal will be a return to form of sorts for TAG Heuer, the biggest ...
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What happened when Rolex Serviced my watch!
SJX Watches
Auction: F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Prototype at Phillips
The second wristwatch Francois-Paul Journe ever made and the counterpart to the similar example in the brand’s own museum, the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité “15/93” was made by Mr Journe in 1993, by hand naturally. It will be offered by Phillips at its 1990s thematic sale in November (that includes the original Rolex Daytona “Rainbow”), accompanied by associated documents. One of three examples his tourbillon prototype, the watch has all of the telltale signs of a hand-made watch. It also serves as the design template that would later shape the signature F.P. Journe Tourbillon. One of the readily apparent details is the fact that the dial is actually the underside of the base plate. The actual dial, namely the guilloche register at three o’clock, is actually secured by screws on the base plate. With an estimate of over CHF2 million, the 1993 F.P. Journe tourbillon be sold at Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999 that takes place on November 8, 2024 in Geneva at the Hotel President.
Monochrome
First Look – The Citizen Promaster 35th Anniversary “Fujitsubo” Titanium Diver 200m
If you’re an avid diver and watch enthusiast, the name Promaster should be more than familiar. Created by Japanese watchmaker Citizen in 1989 as a brand to meet the needs of professionals working in the most challenging environments of the land, sea, and sky, Promaster has grown to a collection that includes over 30 different […]
Quill & Pad
Omega vs Breitling – Who Wins? by Tim Mosso (Video)
Tim Mosso explores the renewed rivalry between luxury watch titans Omega and Breitling. Once an also-ran, Breitling has been rehabilitated in the marketplace and offers competitive watches in all classes. As Rolex has moved upmarket, Omega and its Speedmaster have been left in possession of the mid-market field.
Time+Tide
Have modern Omega dress watches been slept on for far too long?
The Rolex 1908 launched with much fanfare, so why has the Omega De Ville Tresor been overlooked for years?The post Have modern Omega dress watches been slept on for far too long? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
A New Dial Color for the Nomos Ahoi
German watchmaker NOMOS Glashütte has just released their latest Ahoi Neomatik 38 collection. Alongside Sky and Sand, we now have the Atlantic colorway. Inspired by the outdoor culture of seaside and island life, the Ahoi Neomatik 38 series combines sporty elements with a distinctive, sophisticated style. Like others in the series, the Atlantic focuses on functionality without compromising on design. For swimming, diving, or sailing, legibility is key and this reference has large, readable numbers in an almost Art Deco font. The deep blue dial against the contrasting indices and hands aren’t just a great design choice, they also help to tell time in a variety of conditions while out at sea. Further to this, the hours and minutes are coated in Super-LumiNova to assist in low-light areas, such as during dives in open waters. The mixture of yellow hour markers, a red seconds hand, blue-black woven strap, and the 38.5mm stainless steel case all show a cohesive design language in the newAtlantic variant. The Atlantic runs on a NOMOS Neomatik caliber DUW 6101 with a 42-hour power reserve. This movement has a quick-set date function, which can be found at 3 o’clock. Given the aquatic inspiration for this watch, NOMOS has designed the case to be water resistant for up to 200 meters (20 atm). Two references of this watch are available – the 518 and 528. The 518 has a stainless steel case back, while the 528 has a sapphire crystal case back. Both versions are available no...
Video
I reviewed a FASHION watch with real diamonds...and I LIKED IT!! Pascal - A Rolex King Midas homage!
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date In Classic Atlantic Blue
One year ago, I went hands-on with the then-new Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date collection. Two versions of the newly sized Ahoi debuted then, one in clear Sky blue and the other in beautiful Sand gold. The introduction of those two new models also meant the discontinuation of the 40mm Ahoi. That meant a larger Ahoi […] Visit Hands-On With The New Nomos Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date In Classic Atlantic Blue to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: De Bethune DB28xs Purple Rain
Almost a dress watch done in sci-fi style, the most compact version of De Bethune’s trademark model gained a striking new look this year with the DB28xs Purple Rain. Clad entirely in purple – or more accurately, titanium heat treated to purple – the DB28xs Purple Rain is distinctive and striking because of its sheer colour. Though the colour is novel for De Bethune, the watch incorporates many of the brand’s signature design elements, including a “starry sky” dial and the DB2005 movement with a proprietary titanium and white gold balance wheel. Initial thoughts De Bethune didn’t invented flame-blued titanium, but the material has become something of the brand’s signature. It has been used extensively across its product line, arguably so much that it’s not as novel as it was. De Bethune later tried titanium heated to a bronze-gold finish, but that doesn’t have the vivid hue of blue. Titanium that’s been flamed to purple, however, is as vivid as blue. And the finish is still fairly unique, since it has only been applied to the DB28xs Purple Rain as well as a handful of one-off creations. As a result, while the Purple Rain is only a colour variation of an existing model, it is usually compelling because it is both different and striking. Because it’s essentially the same material as blued titanium, purple titanium will likely have the same durability. Like the blued finish, the purple is actually a thin oxide layer on the titanium that’s created by t...
SJX Watches
Visiting the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture
The Plan-les-Ouates district of Geneva is well-known for its concentration of watchmaking facilities, earning it the nickname “Plan-les-Watch”. But the standout structure is arguably the Vacheron Constantin (VC) manufacture, which houses both management functions and production under one roof – or more specifically, under one curving metal skin that wraps over the top of the building from east to west. The area’s other prominent residents include Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Piaget, but you can also find numerous other brands like Frederique Constant, Harry Winston, and Laurent Ferrier clustered together in what feels like a large office park. “Plan-les-Watch” is where most of the actual watchmaking in Geneva gets done, since most brands have relocated their production facilities to the suburbs over time, leaving FP Journe as the only industrial operation in the city’s historic center. And it is here that power is expressed through architecture, from the imposing black glass facade of the Rolex building to the superyacht-like decks that wrap around the Patek Philippe manufacture. The reception at the manufacture. Image – Vacheron Constantin Completed in 2005 to celebrate VC’s 250th anniversary, the Vacheron Constantin building was designed by Bernard Tschumi Architects as a single building. A second wing was then added by the same firm in 2014, increasing both production space and staff amenities. A key emphasis of the building is lighting, with expansive...
Fratello
Introducing: The Airain × Seconde/Seconde/ Type 20 “Up In The Air” Limited Edition
I dare say there wasn’t a single French Air Force pilot in the 1950s who could’ve foreseen a blue sky with pixelated white clouds in the sub-dials of his Type 20. Airain’s Tom van Wijlick, however, dared to do something different with one of the most iconic pilot’s watches of all time by contacting Romaric […] Visit Introducing: The Airain × Seconde/Seconde/ Type 20 “Up In The Air” Limited Edition to read the full article.
Hodinkee
This Week In The Shop: Styling Summer Straps With Pre-Owned Watch Favorites
From the Rolex Air-King himself to a modern icon from Breitling and the ultimate dress watch from Patek Philippe.
Video
Reacting to Your Rolex Collections – Honest Thoughts and Top Recommendations!
Quill & Pad
New Release: De Bethune DB28XP Kind of Blue Tourbillon
De Bethune has blended their Kind of Blue and DB28 case with their fast ultra-light rotating 30-second tourbillon/5 Hz escapement and a Starry Sky. The result is one of the best looking watches on the market and certainly one of the most comfortable.
Quill & Pad
Louis Moinet Black Moon: World First Central Moon Phase with Moon Meteorite disks
To say that Jean-Marie Schaller, the founder of the modern Louis Moinet brand, is passionate about meteorites is an understatement: he has been studying and collecting them for more than 20 years. Now Louis Moinet take a darker look at the night sky with the Black Moon.
Fratello
Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Thor’s Picks From IWC, Christopher Ward, Oris, And More
Another challenge accepted, and this time, it’s a hard one. As you know, €5,000 is not the Rolex-bag-filling stash it once was. Yes, I’m old, but it wasn’t that long ago that €5K was big money. Finding the best watches under €5,000 is not easy these days. I say that reasonably subjectively, even understanding Lex’s […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Thor’s Picks From IWC, Christopher Ward, Oris, And More to read the full article.
SJX Watches
News: Watches & Wonders 2025 Dates, with Additions to the WWG Board
The world’s most important watch trade show, Watches & Wonders, has just announced the dates for next year: April 1-7, 2025. Practically all major luxury watch brands present their latest wares at Watches & Wonder (W&W;), including Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Cartier. The event also named additions to the board of the Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation (WWGF), the governing body of the event. Chanel, Hermès and LVMH join Rolex, Richemont, Patek Philippe, and Cartier on the board, giving representation to the biggest brands or groups showing at the event. Alongside the enlarged board, the WWGF appointed Cartier chief executive Cyrille Vigneron chairman of the board, taking over from Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour, who now becomes the organisation’s treasurer. Still a key man on the board, Jean-Frederic Dufour (second from left) Give and take The changes at WWGF reflect longstanding rivalry between the brands and groups that emerged when the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, better known as SIHH, evolved into W&W; after the demise of Baselworld. Previously dominated by Richemont and Cartier, SIHH transformed into an event that included giants like Rolex and LVMH. LVMH long believed it deserved a seat on the board, according to a senior executive of its watch division. It is possible that the elevation of Cartier’s boss to the chairmanship is a concession for the jewellery agreeing to the enlarged board. Interestingly, the two-year term of Mr Vign...
Fratello
Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Mike’s Picks From Citizen, Audemars Piguet, And Tudor
The Fratello Favorites series has taken us to the €5,000 limit, and that’s a tricky place to play. This was once the land of opportunity, but it now feels like no man’s land in a search for the best watches. Rising prices mean that brands like Omega and Rolex have disappeared from the scene. That’s […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Mike’s Picks From Citizen, Audemars Piguet, And Tudor to read the full article.
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