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The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: Why the Atomic Clock Was Invented Worn & Wound
Oct 29, 2024

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: Why the Atomic Clock Was Invented

Editor’s Note: Today, we bring you the third installment in Andrew Canter’s series, The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time. Today, Andrew examines the history of atomic timekeeping, from its earliest conception, to its potential future. Atomic timekeeping and atomic clocks are often misunderstood, but they form a framework for modern timekeeping standards that is, ultimately, indispensable.  You can find more of Andrew’s work at the Mr. Watchmaster website here. “A more universal unit of time might be found by taking the periodic time of vibration of the particular kind of light whose wavelength is the unit of length.” James Clerk Maxwell, Scottish Physicist from his Treatise on Electricity and Magnetism dated 1873 Cover page of James C. Maxwell’s A Treatise on Electricity and Magnetism, published in 1873. It was way back in 1900 that the German physicist Max Planck suggested that the energy of an atomic oscillator is quantised. Albert Einstein extended this concept in 1905, explaining that electromagnetic radiation is localised in packets, later referred to as photons, of frequency and energy. This was the beginning of the journey that led to the invention of the Atomic Clock. How does an Atomic Clock Work An atomic clock is a type of clock that uses certain resonance frequencies of atoms to keep time with extreme accuracy. The electronic components of atomic clocks are regulated by the frequency of microwave electromagnetic radiation. Only when t...

It’s All In The Details: The New Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Arabic Vintage Fratello
Moritz Grossmann Oct 27, 2024

It’s All In The Details: The New Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Arabic Vintage

Admittedly, I’ve never covered a watch from Moritz Grossmann. A couple of weeks ago, though, I received an email that caught my attention. The new Benu 37 Arabic Vintage may look simple, but there’s plenty to uncover. The name Moritz Grossmann is steeped in history. In 1854, Grossmann established an atelier in Glashütte and began […] Visit It’s All In The Details: The New Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Arabic Vintage to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex “Pre-Icon” Models Fratello
Patek Philippe Nautilus list it’s time Oct 25, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex “Pre-Icon” Models

Another Friday, another list! After last week’s Patek Philippe Nautilus list, it’s time to move on to Rolex. This week, we jump into the world of the vintage models that came before the iconic watches we know today. Some have the same cases and dials with one simple difference: the famous names we know today […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex “Pre-Icon” Models to read the full article.

Interview – Rolf Studer, Co-CEO of Oris, on the Recent Developments of the Brand Monochrome
Oris Oct 25, 2024

Interview – Rolf Studer, Co-CEO of Oris, on the Recent Developments of the Brand

Headquartered in Hölstein, at the northern edge of the Swiss Jura, Oris sits on the outermost boundary of Switzerland’s traditional watchmaking region. This area had a long history of specialising in affordable pin-lever watches. And although the brand had to reinvent itself, this heritage has naturally shaped Oris’s philosophy of “Go your own way”. With […]

Space Watches: Edgar Mitchell’s Rolex GMT-Master 1675 And Dave Scott’s Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 It’s Oct 21, 2024

Space Watches: Edgar Mitchell’s Rolex GMT-Master 1675 And Dave Scott’s Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11

It’s not common for a watch of great rarity related to the Space Race of the Apollo Era to appear in a watch or space auction. Even more uncommon is finding several distinctive examples of rare watches from two premier Swiss brands related to mankind’s voyage to the Moon. Within RR Auction’s current Space Exploration […] Visit Space Watches: Edgar Mitchell’s Rolex GMT-Master 1675 And Dave Scott’s Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 to read the full article.

Meteorite Monday Is A Thing: Otherworldly Meteorite-Dialed Watches From Omega, Rolex, Zodiac, And More Fratello
Zodiac Oct 21, 2024

Meteorite Monday Is A Thing: Otherworldly Meteorite-Dialed Watches From Omega, Rolex, Zodiac, And More

What do you see when you look up at the sky at night? Stars? The Moon? I see possible watch dials. Okay, not always, but I have to admit I have a soft spot for meteorite dials. The idea of having a wafer-thin slice of a rock that fell from the heavens on your wrist […] Visit Meteorite Monday Is A Thing: Otherworldly Meteorite-Dialed Watches From Omega, Rolex, Zodiac, And More to read the full article.

Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. × Massena Lab Endeavour Chronograph Fratello
Massena Lab Endeavour Chronograph H Moser Oct 19, 2024

Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. × Massena Lab Endeavour Chronograph

H. Moser & Cie. is not the type of brand that revels in its heritage. The brand’s catalog consists of forward-focused offerings that are hardly ever sentimental in this sense. This is quite admirable as there is plenty of history to lean on, but the Schaffhausen-based company prefers to lean on its present-day prowess. Enter […] Visit Introducing: The H. Moser & Cie. × Massena Lab Endeavour Chronograph to read the full article.

Hands-On With A Lightweight: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 Girard-Perregaux Oct 12, 2024

Hands-On With A Lightweight: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49

Girard-Perregaux has a history spanning over two centuries, and longevity justifies calling the brand a heavyweight watchmaker. “GP” might be in the shadow of “AP” and “VC,” but it more than deserves a light shining on it. There’s a long history of remarkable and unique complications, like the tourbillon with three gold bridges, and then […] Visit Hands-On With A Lightweight: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Hamilton Ardmore Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet dropped their 23mm “Mini Oct 10, 2024

Hands-On: the Hamilton Ardmore

While much of the focus when discussing Hamilton’s history centers on World War II (for good reason), the brand was making waves within its repertoire decades earlier. In the mid-1930s, the country was in the throes of economic recovery after the Wall Street Crash of 1929. Initiatives like the Social Security Act and the Works Progress Administration, created in 1935, began to reflect a positive return to some stability.  The same year, Hamilton Watch Company – then based out of Lancaster, Pennsylvania – offered a new design to the public: a handsome, fully gold watch called the “Ardmore.” This watch was manufactured for only three years and included a 14K gold case, domed crystal, and curved case design. Newspaper ads from the time show the Ardmore typically priced at $100 – steep enough, given the overall context of the Great Depression, which spanned the entirety of the 1930s. Perhaps this accounted for the Ardmore’s relatively short run. While most would agree we are seeing a trend towards smaller watches in the past few years, the last year alone has seemed to hasten the move towards the teenytiny. Timothee Chalamet is the current face of the Itty Bitty Watch Committee with his various elegant Cartiers, but brands are also driving forces in this movement. Audemars Piguet dropped their 23mm “Mini Oaks” in May of this year in various shades of gold. Cartier released the Tank Louis Mini in April. Similarly, Hamilton’s newest addition to their America...

Introducing – The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Porsche Panamericana Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Oct 10, 2024

Introducing – The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Porsche Panamericana

TAG Heuer, Porsche, and the Carrera Panamericana are the names that strike a chord with many, whether they’re motorsport or watch enthusiasts. The rich history connecting these three continues to unfold, and this year brings an exciting new chapter. TAG Heuer has just revealed the limited edition Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Porsche Panamericana, celebrating the […]

Hands-On With The New Jacques Bianchi JB200 Maxi Dial Fratello
Oct 9, 2024

Hands-On With The New Jacques Bianchi JB200 Maxi Dial

Jacques Bianchi has quickly found a place in the hearts of watch enthusiasts who love the brand’s history and timepieces. With numerous notable releases, the brand has stood out more than once in the past three years. The first ones that come to mind are, without a doubt, the models with illustrations on the dial. […] Visit Hands-On With The New Jacques Bianchi JB200 Maxi Dial to read the full article.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona vs. Zenith Chronomaster Sport: Head-to-Head Quill & Pad
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Head-to-Head Day Oct 7, 2024

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona vs. Zenith Chronomaster Sport: Head-to-Head

Day One for the Zenith Chronomaster Sport was January 21, 2021. And it seemed like everyone had the same reaction: “That is one aggressive Rolex tribute.” Tim Mosso thinks that the Chronomaster Sport is a distinctive product with its own identity and takes a look here at how it stacks up against the ever-popular Rolex Cosmograph Daytona.

Quick Look at the Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz Worn & Wound
Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz Hamilton’s Oct 4, 2024

Quick Look at the Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz

Hamilton’s Khaki line of field watches traces its lineage through the brand’s rich history of producing watches for the American and British militaries. Originally launched in the 1980s, the Khaki line has expanded to a dizzying array of references - all with a unique twist on Hamilton’s heritage.   The new Khaki Field Quartz utilizes a similar dial layout to a watch Hamilton produced for government and non-military personnel of the British armed forces in the ‘60s and ‘70s. Reinterpreted with a quartz movement in both 33mm and 38mm cases and that iconic “Khaki” text on the three dial colors, the Khaki Field Quartz may just be one of the best buys in the Khaki collection.   As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. Hamilton’s Khaki line of field watches traces its lineage through the brand’s rich history of producing watches for the American and British militaries. Originally launched in the 1980s, the Khaki line has expanded to a dizzying array of references - all with a unique twist on Hamilton’s heritage.   The new Khaki Field Quartz utilizes a similar dial layout to a watch Hamilton produced for government and non-military personnel of the British armed forces in the ‘60s and ‘70s. Reinterpreted with a quartz movement in both 33mm and 38mm cases and that iconic “Khaki” text on the three dial ...

Insight: The Advantages of a Vertical Clutch Chronograph SJX Watches
Breitling B01 Oct 2, 2024

Insight: The Advantages of a Vertical Clutch Chronograph

The vertical clutch has become the de facto standard in modern chronograph movements thanks to its mechanical and practical benefits. The widespread and varied use of the vertical clutch is illustrated by the many recent movements that employ the mechanism, ranging from the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to the Breitling B01 to the MB&F; LM Sequential Evo. The proliferation of the vertical clutch is easily explained by its merits. Having explained the construction of a vertical clutch, we now turn to its advantages over the traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling). Figure 1: A simplified cross section of a vertical clutch A vertical clutch serves to transfer energy from the going train of the movement to the chronograph going train, accomplishing this via a vertical motion. Figure 1 illustrates its key parts: a flywheel (yellow) geared to (or even part of) the going train; a cone (grey) that is linked to the chronograph seconds mobile, and vertically tensioned by a spring (red); a pair of pincers (blue) that engage with the cone, lifting or lowering the cone.  When the cone is raised and engaged with flywheel, the chronograph starts running, and when the cone drops and disengages, the chronograph stops. One of the most apparent advantage of the vertical clutch is the low kinetic friction generated during coupling and uncoupling of the chronograph, as friction is produced only by the sliding motion of the pincers and the vertical motion of the cone. The Rolex Cosmogra...

The Tudor Prince Oysterdate “Jumbo” Is A Vintage Value Proposition Fratello
Tudor Prince Oysterdate “Jumbo” Sep 29, 2024

The Tudor Prince Oysterdate “Jumbo” Is A Vintage Value Proposition

I am a big fan of vintage Tudor, as many of you will probably already know. Tudor, to me, is a brand that represents the very best of Hans Wilsdorf’s vision of creating mechanical excellence but without the posh baggage of Rolex. The vintage Tudor Prince Oysterdate “Jumbo” will scratch the Datejust itch but with […] Visit The Tudor Prince Oysterdate “Jumbo” Is A Vintage Value Proposition to read the full article.

Light Me Up: The Insanely Colorful Lume of Black Badger James Thompson’s Watches (Lume Fest!) Quill & Pad
De Bethune MB&F; Stepan Sarpaneva Bamford Sep 27, 2024

Light Me Up: The Insanely Colorful Lume of Black Badger James Thompson’s Watches (Lume Fest!)

Working with creative makers like De Bethune, MB&F;, Stepan Sarpaneva, Bamford, Linde Werdelin and more, Gothenburg-based James Thompson – aka Black Badger – has become industry famous as the driving force of a new school of applications of luminous materials. Anders Modig takes us through Black Badger's history, along the way highlighting many of his colorful watch collaborations.

Bulova Begins their 150th Anniversary Celebration with the Premier of the Documentary “America Telling Time” Worn & Wound
Citizen Watch America Sep 26, 2024

Bulova Begins their 150th Anniversary Celebration with the Premier of the Documentary “America Telling Time”

Next year, Bulova turns 150 years old, but you’ll forgive them if they start the celebration a little early. Last week in New York City, the band’s home for its entire history, Bulova hosted the world premiere of America Telling Time, a documentary about an hour in length that charts the course of the brand through 150 years of being, quite literally, an American standard in time telling. Watching the film in a room full of watch collectors, watch media, and Bulova staffers it became clear that Bulova is truly unlike any other watch brand, and not for the usual reasons we typically invoke that possibly overused phrase. Bulova’s history is tied inextricably to American history in a way that no other brand can replicate, which is a simple fact of its founding, longevity, and ability to always be on the cusp of trends in culture and watchmaking.  Before sitting down to watch the film at the premiere, I had an opportunity to speak with Jeffrey Cohen, President of Citizen Watch America, and Patty Schmoyer, Vice President of Marketing at Bulova, about what we could expect later that evening when the documentary would be shown. “You’re going to see how Bulova played a vital role in our society,” Cohen told me. He then went on to list the seemingly endless arenas in which Bulova was a factor in American life. The space program, being a pioneer in radio and television advertising, and promoting equal pay for equal work at a time when a large American company taking a s...