Deployant
New: Panerai Novelties for 2020 with Editorial Commentary
We take a look at some of the Panerai novelties from Watches and Wonders 2020, with new additions to the Luminor and Submersible collection.
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Deployant
SJX Watches
Pandemic Truths – François-Henry Bennahmias
Audemars Piguet is one of the most recognised brands in haute horlogerie, but since François-Henry Bennahmias took over as chief executive in 2012, it has enjoyed turbocharged growth, with turnover more than doubling to over a billion francs in 2019. As the crisis hit, Audemars Piguet was still in the midst of executing some drastic strategic changes in the brand’s distribution and marketing – eliminating all third-party retail as well as pulling out from the SIHH trade fair. Has the crisis changed its plans? François-Henry Bennahmias answers our questions from his home in Nyon, a town 40 minutes to Audemars Piguet’s headquarters in Le Brassus (which just opens its new museum shaped like a glass spiral). Francois-Henri at home in Nyon How has this crisis impacted your business? All our manufacturing sites are closed; 85% of our stores worldwide are closed. So we are drastically impacted as you can imagine. 2020 will be affected in a substantial way. But with what our team have achieved in the past eight years, Audemars Piguet can weather the storm. Our financial health is good. We are able to keep every single employee around the world on the payroll. That is mainly what we have been working on: taking care of our people, of their health and of their jobs. In this regard, I would say that all is good! Obviously, the situation calls for a deep reflection on the “after”. Anyone who believes that we will go back to the normal we once knew is completely mistaken. ...
Revolution
Introducing the Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”
From the dark of night and the annals of history emerges the Zenith Chronomaster Revival ‘Shadow.’
Revolution
Shine on: Parmigiani Fleurier introduces the updated Tonda collection
The new Tonda references feature smaller case sizes, mechanical calibers, and the richest of looks to adorn the most delicate wrists.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The IWC Portugieser Automatic 40
Say hello to the latest and most wearable Portugieser.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Seaside serenity with the Panerai Radiomir Mediterraneo collection
The translucent blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea often conjure images of beach towels draped over deckchairs, shade umbrellas and Aperol Spritz, offering sunbakers relief from a cloudless sky, and small fishing boats rocking back and forth not far from shore. It is this idyllic scene that Panerai has embraced with their latest collection of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Seaside serenity with the Panerai Radiomir Mediterraneo collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Sinn Introduces the U50 Dive Watch
Sinn‘s signature dive watch is the near-indestructible U1 that’s a large 44 mm in diameter. Now Sinn has unveiled the mid-sized version of the same, the U50, which offers all of the goodness of its bigger brother but in a 41 mm case. Initial thoughts I am a fan of the original U1 because it is seriously minded in its functionality, encompassing design, material, and testing. And it is affordable, making it great value for money. The new U50 has almost all of the same features and similar pricing, so it is hard not to like it. But one caveat: though the U1 is a largish 44 mm, it never really felt that large, perhaps because of the short lugs and wide bezel (thus a small dial). So while the U50 may fit better on some wrists, it might look smaller than its 41 mm diameter suggests. U50 at 41 mm (left), and U1 at 44 mm Super steel Like the U1, the new U50 has a case made of submarine steel, the same alloy used for the German navy’s submarines. Highly resistant to seawater corrosion and also especially nonmagnetic, the steel alloy comes from ThyssenKrupp Marine Systems, a builder of naval vessels, and is the same material used for the hull of the stealthy U212 class of submarines. It’s rated to 500 m – hence the U50 moniker – and powered by the no-nonsense Sellita SW300-1, a clone of the ETA 2892. That’s less than the 1000 m of the U1, but 500 m is still plenty – and about the same depth rating as most navy submarines. And if the submarine steel alloy alone wasn...
Deployant
New: Montblanc Novelties for 2020 with Editorial Commentary
Montblanc is building up its identity as the adventurer brand, heritage sports. In particular, there is, as with many other brands, the obsession with navigation and the reminiscence of European adventurism. Of the models this year, the brand has mostly stuck to its guns with the Geosphere, and Monopusher. The 24 hour single hand watch is also rather unique. The case dimensions for the watches remain on the more hefty side of things, as expected especially with the thicker movement Monopusher automatic.
Deployant
New: Sinn Novelties for 2020 with Editorial Commentary
Sinn released their novelties for 2020. A new U50 series in submarine steel, a new 1739 dressy collection and a line extension for the 556.
SJX Watches
Bulgari Introduces the Bulgari Bulgari Cities Special Edition
While Bulgari is probably best known for the ultra-thin Octo Finissimo and serpent-inspired, jewelled timepieces, one of its earliest wristwatch icons – and one with a broader appeal – is the Bulgari Bulgari, which happens to have been designed by Gerald Genta. And the new Bulgari Bulgari Cities Special Edition 2020 – each accompanied by a set of prints – actually harks back to the origins of the design, which was conceived as an entry-level watch. Introduced in 1977, the Bulgari Bulgari was Genta’s adaptation of the Bulgari Roma, a digital quartz watch that Bulgari gifted its top 100 clients in 1975. Engraved with “BVLGARI” and “ROMA” on its bezel, the watch borrowed from ancient Roman coins with the reigning Emperor’s name inscribed on the circumference. Genta transformed the dinky gift into the Bulgari Bulgari, which has since become one of the jeweller’s trademark watches. The Bulgari Bulgari of 1977 (left), and the dinky digital watch of 1975. Photo – Bulgari Initial thoughts The new Cities Edition takes inspiration from a limited run of watches with black-plastic cases in the early 1990s. Though small, those were good-looking watches, because they combined the classic Bulgari Bulgari style with a stark black-and-gold livery. But the cases were plastic and the watches felt cheap – though to be fair they were cheaply, and fairly, priced. Now Bulgari has translated the same look into a larger, upgraded watch with a steel case and in-house mo...
Quill & Pad
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Oster Edition: Horological Joy In Collaboration
The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Oster Edition is the result of an informal meeting between Denver-based retailer Jeremy Oster, Armin Strom head of watchmaking Claude Greisler, and independent watchmaker extraordinaire Kari Voutilainen. Not surprisingly, the collaboration resulted in a stunning, technical watch limited to just 10 pieces and available only through Oster Jewelers. It's a must-see!
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The DOXA SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers limited edition, a bold statement already creating buzz
It was a Friday afternoon last November when I met Jan Edöcs, the CEO of Doxa S.A. He was here for the launch of the brand in Australia, and not only brought the full collection of watches from 2019, but he was also generous enough to share what they had in store for 2020, including … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The DOXA SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers limited edition, a bold statement already creating buzz appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Help Fight Coronavirus By Designing a Ressence Watch
Ressence and Sotheby’s join hands to combat coronavirus in a novel, crafty way.
Deployant
New: Cartier Novelties for 2020 with Editorial Commentary
We bring you the Cartier novelties for 2020, which include a relaunch of the historical Tank Asymétrique, and new variants for the Santos collection.
Revolution
Zooming In With François-Henry Bennahmias, CEO Audemars Piguet
François-Henry Bennahmias, CEO of Audemars Piguet speaks with Revolution on the launch of Audemars Piguet’s recently completed Museum, the introduction of the [Re]master01 and the current state of the industry.
SJX Watches
Design a Ressence Wristwatch for Charity
Intended to raise funds for medical research, independent watchmaker Ressence has just announced Time to Draw, a wristwatch design contest. The contest calls for participants to design the dial of the Ressence Type 1 Slim wristwatch, and the winner will turned into an actual, one-off wristwatch – with the designer’s name engraved on the case – that will then be sold at Sotheby’s. The Type 1 Slim Proceeds will go to KU Leuven in Belgium, specifically to support the university’s COVID-19 coronavirus research programme that is working on a vaccine and advanced detection of the virus. Taking part in the contest is easy: Download the Type 1 Slim templates from Ressence.com Get to work with any type of design tool – physical or electronic (there are no restrictions on design tools) Specify the exact colour of every component, including typography and luminous paint Submit the design by email before the closing deadline – 2:00 pm GMT on May 12, 2020 For the design template and more details, visit Ressence.com.
Revolution
Goodbye Baselworld, Hello New World
Revolution USA editor-in-chief, Stephen Hale Watson points out one key problem he faces each year at Baselworld, apart from the pricey sausages and hotels.
Time+Tide
The hidden party trick that makes the Jaeger‑LeCoultre Master Control Calendar a (relatively) accessible work of art
The thing about understated magnificence is that, at first glance, it’s often overlooked. And then it happens. The “why-Miss-Jones-without-your-glasses-you’re-beautiful” moment. Suddenly noticed, the full force of its charm slaps you sharply in the face, to leave you genuflecting with slack-jawed wonder and a slightly goofy smile. This is how I feel about the just-released Jaeger‑LeCoultre … ContinuedThe post The hidden party trick that makes the Jaeger‑LeCoultre Master Control Calendar a (relatively) accessible work of art appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
7 Brand-New IWC Portugieser Watches For 2020
Throughout the years, IWC has carefully extended its collection, adding complications and new variations, yet always under careful consideration of its original “DNA.” In 2020 IWC expands the Portugieser collection with new automatics, perpetual calendars, and chronographs.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: If you own a high-value vintage watch, this story could make your day
Tragically, Covid-19 spells economic doom for many businesses. But while many industries are flat-lining or being forced into hasty reinventions, there are signs that the vintage watch industry will not just scrape through, but that some corners are in fact going from strength to strength. Cam Wolf in GQ explores how auction houses and watch … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: If you own a high-value vintage watch, this story could make your day appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Bulgari Bulgari Cities Special Edition 2020
A worldly and artful release with inspiration from Bulgari's archives.
SJX Watches
Up Close: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide
The flagship of IWC’s new Portugieser watches unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2020 is not the most complicated, but it is certainly the most unusual. The Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide is a first for IWC, introducing a brand-new complication to its line-up – a tide indication that tracks the ocean’s ebbs and flows. Initial thoughts The Yacht Club Moon & Tide is a big, heavy and shiny sports watch with twin sub-dials, but it is far more interesting than the typical watch in this category (which is almost always a chronograph). One of the very rare, comprehensive tide-display watches on the market, the Yacht Club Moon & Tide incorporates twin tidal displays, which are useless for most but fascinating, not just because they are rare but also because they are, in essence, an astronomical complication. And the tidal displays are combined with IWC’s trademark double moon phase, making it a bit more compelling. (But like all tide-indicator watches, the new Yacht Club has a caveat: IWC points out it “works reliably on all coasts with two equally strong high and low tides per day”. It is not a flaw, but just a nature of the complication. More that below.) At the same time, the watch overall is constructed to IWC’s usual levels of quality, which is to say excellent. The only downside is the rose-gold case, resulting in a steep price tag; hopefully a steel or titanium version comes along (and it probably will). The tidal watch, until now The tide-indicator complicatio...
Revolution
Vacheron Constantin Adds A New Brown to the Fiftysix
Vacheron Constantin calls the new Fiftysix dials sepia. We think it looks very fresh and contemporary.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: A. Lange & Söhne’s Odysseus in white gold with ghost grey dial is a total smokeshow
A. Lange & Söhne don’t always do things by the book. The year is 2019. The demand for steel luxury sports watches is at an all-time high. And along comes the brand’s brand new Odysseus model. The polarising design (with naysayers focusing on the thicc steel bracelet as a flaw) took the established trope of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A. Lange & Söhne’s Odysseus in white gold with ghost grey dial is a total smokeshow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
3 Brand-New De Bethune DB28s To Celebrate 10 Years Of This Sensational, Now Ultra-Thin Watch With Floating Lugs
In 2020, De Bethune celebrates the tenth anniversary of its groundbreaking DB28 with three limited edition DB28XP versions taking the model from thin to ultra-thin and upping the power reserve from five to six days. And wait until you see what they look like!
Deployant
New: Jaeger LeCoultre Novelties for 2020, with Editorial Commentary
This year, Jaeger LeCoultre (JLC) launched five new models in the inaugural digital Watches & Wonders 2020. Press Release (edited for brevity) with commentary. There are four new pieces from the Master Control collection, and a new Reverso One collection for the ladies. Introducing: Master Control Collection Since it was introduced in 1992, JLC’s MasterRead More
Time+Tide
10 watches from Montblanc’s 2020 collection that suggest they are reaching the top of the mountain
When Richemont acquired Minerva to pair with Montblanc to fast-track legitimacy for their watchmaking division, some scoffed at the audacity. Taking a respected, historical watchmaker and giving their patents to a pen brand seemed like horological heresy at the time; however, Montblanc’s commitment to continuing Minerva’s legacy only grows more apparent with each subsequent year … ContinuedThe post 10 watches from Montblanc’s 2020 collection that suggest they are reaching the top of the mountain appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces the Submersible EcoPangaea Tourbillon GMT PAM01108
With last year’s limited editions packaged with extreme adventures having sold well commercially, Panerai is once again offering a watch packaged with a once-in-a-lifetime experience, except that the timepiece is no longer merely a basic dive watch. Limited to just five pieces, the Submersible EcoPangaea Tourbillon GMT PAM01108 is equipped with a skeletonised movement featuring a second time zone and tourbillon. More unusually, the massive, 50 mm case of the PAM 1108 is fabricated from recycled steel. The EcoPangaea tourbillon has an unusual bezel milled to have its markings in relief Named EcoPangaea steel, the material is recycled from the discarded drive shaft of Pangaea, the 35 m sailboat owned by South African conservationist and explorer Mike Horn. The vessel has accompanied Mr Horn on various expeditions around the world, from Antarctica to the Amazon. Fittingly, the watch includes an Arctic adventure supervised by Mike Horn, which Panerai describes as “an opportunity to test your physical limits and witness the imperiled state of our ecosystem.” The perpendicular tourbillon The PAM 1108 is powered by the P.2005/T, a movement Panerai has used on several other skeleton-tourbillon watches. Hand-wound with a six-day power reserve, the P.2005/T incorporates a second time zone function with a central GMT hand, as well as the novel tourbillon at 10 o’clock. Unlike conventional tourbillons that rotate on the same plane as the dial, with the balance wheel oscilla...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko Tuna S23631 & S23629 Dive Watches
I’m really excited to see a more classic silhouette behind the handset and pricing that isn’t entirely absurd; when you consider some of the previous Spring Drive and high-end automatic variants.
Revolution
Introducing The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication
The caliber 945 in a new case and dial layout celebrates 10 years of the Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication, celebrating The Art of Sound by Jaeger-LeCoultre.