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Results for The Longitude Problem

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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

TAG Heuer Introduces a New Glassbox Carrera in Partnership with Team Ikuzawa and Bamford Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Introduces Jul 31, 2026

TAG Heuer Introduces a New Glassbox Carrera in Partnership with Team Ikuzawa and Bamford

TAG Heuer has released a new three-way collaboration and a sequel of sorts in their new Carrera Chronograph made in partnership with Team Ikuzawa with a design assist from Bamford. Team Ikuzawa is a legendary Japanese motorsport team founded by driver Tetsu Ikuzawa and continues today under the stewardship of his daughter Mai Ikuzawa as an all encompassing motorsport, design, fashion, and luxury brand. And Bamford is, of course, Bamford, founded by George Bamford and well known for being a pioneer in high end luxury watch modding and now making watches under their own name, and frequently collaborating as a design partner for the likes of G-SHOCK, Zenith, and countless others.  The new Carrera Chronograph x Team Ikuzawa release seen here follows a 2023 Carrera release with a similar look, but offered on the prior Carrera platform. Here, all parties involved benefit from the new Glassbox case design, which includes a 39mm case and a gorgeous vintage style “glassbox” crystal that accentuates and magnifies the dial’s perimeter and offers a ton of visual interest at odd angles. We’ve covered these watches pretty extensively and are big fans of the case proportions and the approach TAG Heuer is taking here. They seem to please both the mass market and the enthusiast crowd, which is a vanishingly rare trick for a large brand like TAG Heuer to pull off.  For this release, TAG, Team Ikuzawa, and Bamford have leaned into the red and white colorway most associated with the...

Introducing - Mido’s Multifort 8 One Crown is Back in Black PVD Monochrome
Mido s Multifort 8 One Jul 31, 2026

Introducing - Mido’s Multifort 8 One Crown is Back in Black PVD

Founded in Switzerland in 1918 by George Schaeren, Mido is currently positioned as an entry-to-mid-level Swatch Group brand, prized for offering exceptional value and robust build quality. Placing more emphasis on bolder design, Mido has sparked interest for its accomplished remakes of golden oldies like the Multifort TV Big Date and the Decompression Timer and […]

Moser’s Repeater is Cosmic, Cylindrical, and Skeleton SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie has unveiled Jul 31, 2026

Moser’s Repeater is Cosmic, Cylindrical, and Skeleton

While most Swiss watchmakers are taking their summer holidays, H. Moser & Cie. has unveiled the Endeavour Minute Repeater Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Cosmic Rain — the latest variant of the brand’s most complicated movement platform. The Cosmic Rain takes its name from its dial, which features mother-of-pearl inlays on an aventurine glass dial base. Devoid of a brand logo or wordmark — a long-running Moser motif — the dial effectively evokes a night sky filled with streaking comets. Initial thoughts H. Moser & Cie. is probably best known for its minimalist designs, but the Cosmic Rain’s openworked construction reveals another side of the brand. So, too, does its raden dial, which is dressed up with shimmering strips of mother-of-pearl. The Cosmic Rain is quite compact for such a complicated watch at 40 mm in diameter and 14.4 mm thick — barely larger than some time-only watches. These wrist-friendly dimensions, combined with a lightweight titanium case, should make for a comfortable wearing experience. The calibre HMC 909 features an off-centre time display that reveals both the strike train and the tourbillon, which has been elevated — literally and figuratively — with a cylindrical hairspring. Unfortunately, the vestigial centre wheel pinion is unnecessarily exposed, revealing the calibre’s roots as a movement designed for central hour and minutes hands. There’s a lot to like about the Cosmic Rain, but it’s hard to find justification for the CHF...

SJX Podcast: Second-Chance Watches SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Jul 31, 2026

SJX Podcast: Second-Chance Watches

The return of the Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar got us thinking about other technically interesting watches that showed promise but never truly found their footing. In episode 47 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss recent releases from Seiko, IWC, and Swatch before turning to candidates for a second chance, including the Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars AP Escapement, the TAG Heuer Monaco V4, and the elusive Breguet Hommage à Nicolas G. Hayek 7887. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Introducing: TAG Heuer, Team Ikuzawa, And Bamford Return With A Second Collaboration Hodinkee
TAG Heuer Team Ikuzawa Jul 30, 2026

Introducing: TAG Heuer, Team Ikuzawa, And Bamford Return With A Second Collaboration

What We Know It feels like eons ago, but it was only three years back when TAG Heuer first collaborated with Team Ikuzawa and Bamford to release a Carrera chronograph. Just like Tetsu Ikuzawa in a Porsche 906 back in 1967. Oh, how time flies. Now the trio is back with a second collaboration from the minds of Tetsu's daughter and the team's principal, Mai Ikuzawa, brought to life by Bamford and TAG Heuer. With the compact 39mm Carrera "Glassbox" shape and the team's white-and-red accents, the watch draws on Mai Ikuzawa's decades of experience blending design, fashion, and motorsports. First things first. The watch is 39mm by 13.86mm in brushed and polished stainless steel, with that domed "glassbox" crystal that magnifies the dial and creates a 3D effect on the flange. The dial is white with a really unexpected Clous de Paris finish, the Team Ikuzawa branding at 6 o'clock, just above a date window with red text, and red text for TAG Heuer and Carrera at 12 o'clock. The edge of the dial has black-printed minute markers and numerals. The 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock has an unusual pinball-and-roulette-wheel design, and the hands have touches of red with luminous filling. Even the crown has a red stripe around it—the whole thing is unabashedly bold. Inside the case is the TH20-10 movement, with an 80-hour power reserve and a 4Hz frequency. You can see the automatic movement through the caseback, but it's slightly obscured by printed branding on the caseback for Team Ikuzaw...

Don’t Get A Seiko SKX - Buy This Classic Model Instead! Fratello
Seiko SKX — Buy Jul 30, 2026

Don’t Get A Seiko SKX - Buy This Classic Model Instead!

I was never a fan of the Seiko SKX. There, I said it. I know this will get me into trouble with a lot of watch lovers because the SKX’s legacy is grand. For many enthusiasts, the SKX007 or SKX009 was the gateway into the world of mechanical watches. As such, Seiko’s legendary diver was […] Visit Don’t Get A Seiko SKX — Buy This Classic Model Instead! to read the full article.

Conversations: American Watchmakers Jason Lu and Zach Smith of 1776 Atelier SJX Watches
Casio n 1776 Atelier released Jul 30, 2026

Conversations: American Watchmakers Jason Lu and Zach Smith of 1776 Atelier

The 250th anniversary of the founding of the United States did not escape notice from the nation’s fledgling watch industry. To mark the occasion, 1776 Atelier released the Liberty 250, a watch credibly claimed to be more than 90% US-made. The brand’s most American-made and technically ambitious watch to date, the Liberty 250 also illustrates the difficulty of building a complicated mechanical product without an established domestic supply chain. Its HP 917 movement is the product of extensive iterative development, incorporating newly manufactured components, a free-sprung balance and a markedly more elaborate finishing programme. We sat down with the brand’s co-founders, Jason Lu and Zach Smith, to unpack the 90% figure, discuss the challenges of manufacturing watches in the United States and understand what the Liberty 250 means for the future of the brand and American watchmaking more broadly. The Liberty 250 is the most American-made product yet from Atelier 1776. The interview was edited for length and clarity. Brandon Moore (BM): Why start a watch company in the United States, particularly given the limited domestic supplier network and the additional cost involved? Jason Lu (JL): Because this is where we live, and this is where we wanted to build it. The United States was founded on ingenuity, and American watchmaking has a remarkable history. The fact that much of the former infrastructure no longer exists does not mean it cannot be rebuilt in a new form. Th...

Hands On: Rolex Day-Date 40 Jubilee Gold SJX Watches
Rolex Day-Date 40 Jubilee Gold Jul 30, 2026

Hands On: Rolex Day-Date 40 Jubilee Gold

Twenty twenty-six has been a milestone year for Rolex, which is celebrating the 100th anniversary of its signature Oyster case with several commemorative models. While not as innovative as the enamel-dialled Daytona or as surprising as the revised Yacht-Master II, the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 dresses the brand’s flagship time-only watch in a new proprietary gold alloy dubbed “Jubilee” gold and an aventurine stone dial. Initial thoughts Stone dials are everywhere, but as usual Rolex has found a way to stand out by using an unusual mineral. Most brands today source the same few varieties of stone — especially malachite and tiger’s eye — from the same few suppliers, resulting in stone-dialled watches that tend to resemble one another. But with its unusual aventurine dial and muted Jubilee gold case and bracelet, there’s no mistaking the Day-Date 40 for anything else. And this is also actually aventurine stone, rather than the more commonly used and less expensive aventurine glass. The exotic dial and proprietary alloy give the new Day-Date 40 a look that is both distinctive yet coherent with the rest of the collection. Many key Rolex models are perpetually out of stock, underscoring the brand’s commitment to value. While it might seem disingenuous to describe a US$65,700 time-only watch as a good value, the Day-Date 40 in Jubilee gold makes a case for itself. In a perfect world with on-demand availability, this would be a strong value proposition. The A. L...

Business News: Independent Watch Retailer Collective Horology Sues Trump And Administration Over New Tariffs Hodinkee
Armin Strom Czapek Fears U.S.-based J.N Jul 29, 2026

Business News: Independent Watch Retailer Collective Horology Sues Trump And Administration Over New Tariffs

Independent watch retailer Collective Horology LLC filed legal action against President Donald Trump, U.S. Trade Representative Jamieson Greer, and a host of other government officials and departments, alleging the administration's new tariff duties are "unlawful," lack congressional approval, and harm American business. The Ventura, California company, in a lawsuit filed in the United States Court of International Trade on July 24, alleges Trump and his deputies, in imposing tariffs of 10% and 12.5% on goods imported into the U.S. under Section 301 of the Trade Act,  exceeded the President's authority to unilaterally levy such measures. The lawsuit represents the most aggressive response yet by the watch industry that has been financially kneecapped by the levies that have exacerbated an economically challenging environment that includes a strong Swiss franc against the U.S. dollar and record precious metals prices, a key input in luxury watchmaking. Many of the most high-profile watch brands raised prices in response, while retailers have taken a hit on margins. Collective Horology co-founder and CEO Asher Rapkin. Photo courtesy Collective Horology.  Founded in 2018, Collective sells independent watch brands including Armin Strom, Czapek, Fears, U.S.-based J.N. Shapiro and Ming, among others. The company has paid more than $160,000 in tariff duties under various schemes imposed by the Trump White House and U.S. Trade Representative Greer, says co-founder and Chief Exe...

Five Unusual Celebrity Ambassadors for Seiko, Speake-Marin, Rolex, and More Worn & Wound
Rolex Jul 29, 2026

Five Unusual Celebrity Ambassadors for Seiko, Speake-Marin, Rolex, and More

One of the things you may have noticed about Worn & Wound over the years is that we don’t pay too much attention to celebrity watch spotting or culture (I use that term very loosely). We usually just don’t find much interest in what movie and pop stars are paid to wear on red carpets and premieres. I point this out because it’s actually a pretty large segment of the watch discourse that we elect to simply not take part in – you might be surprised (or maybe not) about the sheer volume of press releases we receive notifying us of a famous person wearing a watch that they are almost certainly being paid to wear.  That said, there are exceptions. Earlier this year I wrote about how Timothée Chalamet’s support of Urban Jürgensen and other indies could reshape how those specific types of brands are viewed by the masses (the jury’s still out on that one). And, I admit, as a bit of a pop culture fiend who was raised on a steady diet of Entertainment Weekly, I have a bit of a personal fascination with the behind-the-scenes mechanics of how these relationships between celebs and watch brands develop.  Over the years, some of these brand ambassador relationships have truly baffled me. People I never would have thought would associate themselves with a watch brand at all, and also watch brands that have attracted interesting people that seem at a glance to be outside their scope are something I always make note of. It’s also kind of interesting to observe how these r...

Introducing: Article Prep Hodinkee
Jul 29, 2026

Introducing: Article Prep

What We Know TK What We Think Something someone said someone. TK The Basics Brand: Model: Reference Number: Diameter: Thickness: Case Material: Dial Color: Indexes: Lume: Water Resistance: Strap/Bracelet: The Movement Caliber: Functions: Diameter: Thickness: Power Reserve: Winding: Frequency: Jewels: Chronometer Certified: Additional Details: Pricing & Availability Price: Availability: Limited Edition: For more, click here.

Introducing - Laine Watches Celebrates its 10th Anniversary with a New 33mm Model and Evolutions of its P37 Monochrome
Jul 29, 2026

Introducing - Laine Watches Celebrates its 10th Anniversary with a New 33mm Model and Evolutions of its P37

In the field of independent watch brands, Laine Watches holds a special place, with its focus on finishing, movement decoration (not manufacturing), and highly respectable guillochage skills. Founded ten years ago by Finnish watchmaker Torsti Laine and based in the Canton of Neuchâtel, Switzerland, the small atelier creates classical time-only watches (even though a chronograph […]

Hands On: Chanel J12 Coco Game SJX Watches
Chanel J12 Coco Game Jul 29, 2026

Hands On: Chanel J12 Coco Game

This year Chanel celebrated games of all sorts, from chess to cards and even video games with the J12 Coco Game — a quartet of Chanel’s best selling ceramic dive-ish watch featuring pixel art renditions of the Mademoiselle herself. This haute joaillerie variant is the maximalist-chic final boss of the sub-collection, set with 5.88 carats of diamonds, and equipped with the same bulletproof movement and hardy ceramic construction that makes the J12 so practical — though without the useful bezel or date. Initial thoughts Every year I look forward to Chanel’s Watches & Wonders launches — more-so than I do many “real” watchmakers — and every year the brand graces us with a one-two punch of remarkable objects and whimsical watches, often related by a common theme. This year’s theme was games, and Chanel outdid itself with a multi-million-dollar, unique (and already sold) chess set as the halo piece. Downrange there are allusions to playing cards, dominos and Scrabble, and a quartet of video game-inspired J12s. The other three models in the lineup, from left to right: ref. H11063, H11091, and H11062. Image – Chanel Pixel art developed as a natural consequence of past technological limitations, but it remains popular, particularly among independent game developers. And I suspect these watches will appeal just as much to a generation — my generation — that grew up with indie games like Minecraft, Terraria, and Undertale, rather than retro pixel art games lik...

Heavenly Horology: Understanding Astronomical Complications SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Copernicus Celestial Spheres depicts Jul 29, 2026

Heavenly Horology: Understanding Astronomical Complications

All timekeeping is astronomical in origin. Perhaps for this reason, clocks and watches capable of reproducing the movements of the heavens in miniature have long ranked among the highest expressions of horology. Astronomical complications mechanically encode vast celestial cycles into concise visual displays. Such mechanisms featured prominently in the collections of European monarchs and nobles, and later those of the industrialists and financiers who succeeded them as horology’s most ambitious patrons. The Vacheron Constantin Copernicus Celestial Spheres depicts the elliptical orbit of the Earth around the Sun, resulting in a calendar of sorts read against the signs of the zodiac. Yet many astronomical complications are based on principles that have been understood for thousands of years, and are often simpler — mechanically speaking — than more commonplace complications like chronographs. The tension between their relatively straightforward operation and their profound historical meaning makes them difficult to place within the traditional hierarchy of complications. This calls into question whether such a hierarchy even exists. Time comes from above Long before the development of mechanical clocks, humans attempted to relate the passage of time to observations of the heavens. The rising and setting of the Sun, the changing phase of the Moon, and the return of the seasons helped determine when to plant, harvest, travel and perform religious ceremonies. A fragment ...

Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2026 Recap: Our Biggest Midwest Celebration Yet Worn & Wound
Ming community-first atmosphere Jul 28, 2026

Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2026 Recap: Our Biggest Midwest Celebration Yet

Long before the doors opened on Friday morning, a line had already formed outside Morgan MFG. Some attendees had traveled across the city, others across the country, all eager to see more than 70 watch brands, reconnect with friends, meet the people behind their favorite companies, and spend a weekend immersed in watch enthusiasm. By the time the doors closed on Sunday afternoon, one thing was clear: this was our biggest Windup Watch Fair Chicago ever. Over three incredible days at our new home in Morgan MFG, Windup Watch Fair Chicago welcomed its largest attendance to date, setting a new benchmark for the event. Thousands of enthusiasts, collectors, industry professionals, and first-time visitors filled the show floor, creating the unmistakable energy that has come to define Windup. The move to Morgan MFG proved to be the perfect next chapter for Chicago. The spacious venue gave us room to grow while maintaining the welcoming, community-first atmosphere that makes Windup special. Flooded with natural light and just steps from Fulton Market, it quickly became one of our favorite venues yet. More than 70 exhibiting brands brought hundreds of new releases, fan favorites, prototypes, and limited editions for attendees to experience firsthand. Whether someone was buying their first mechanical watch or comparing the latest releases from independent brands, every table offered the chance to discover something new. Incredible Partners Helped Make It Happen A weekend like this sim...