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The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: How The Invention of Balance Spring Changed the World Worn & Wound
Sep 24, 2024

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: How The Invention of Balance Spring Changed the World

Editor’s Note: Today, we bring you the second part in the new series from Andrew Canter, the Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time. In this installment, Andrew examines the invention of the balance spring, a watchmaking advancement that not only charted a path for the watch industry, but can be said to have legitimately changed the world, enabling accurate, reliable, and portable timekeeping for the first time in human history. Who actually invented it, though, is still a matter of some debate, even after 350 years.  You can find more of Andrew’s work at the Mr. Watchmaster website here. Prior to the Balance Spring Early watches were powered by a verge escapement which was the same type of movement used in the early clocks. The verge is the earliest known type of mechanical escapement that controlled its rate by allowing the gear train to advance at regular intervals or ‘ticks’. Verge escapements were used from the late 13th century until the mid-19th century in clocks and pocket watches. Drawing of a verge escapement (bottom) and balance wheel (top) from an early pocket watch from an encyclopaedia c.1820 In the earliest watches a plain wheel, known as the balance, was used to control the rate of going of the mechanism. There wasn’t a consistent restoring force (such as a fusee), so consequently, its period of oscillation and, hence, the rate of the timekeeper were dependent on the driving force. Oval verge escapement watch movement by William Petit, Londo...

The King Seiko “KSK” Line Grows Once Again, with Three New References Worn & Wound
Seiko KSK” Line Grows Once Sep 23, 2024

The King Seiko “KSK” Line Grows Once Again, with Three New References

When it comes to mastering the balance between refinement and artistry, does anyone do it better than Japanese watchmakers? King Seiko’s latest additions to the KSK line-up just proved my point. These three new references – the latest from the recently reintroduced Seiko spin-off brand – are inspired by the company’s roots in Kameido, Tokyo and show not only the beauty of the region, but speak to King Seiko’s history and technical precision. Each dial is something truly unique, bringing traditional Japanese patterns with color gradients. First on the list is SJE103, which takes the deep red of regional plums and turns it into a sanguine interpretation against the dial. SJE107 is a bit more subdued, with a purple gradient and a wisteria-brand pattern that’s subtle (some motifs of nature can be a little too on-the-nose, in my opinion, but this one balances between inspiration and interpretation well). And finally, my favorite, is SJE105, which has a turtle shell pattern and a rich blue dial, inspired by the local Sumida River in Kameido. Each watch runs on Seiko’s Caliber 6L35 automatic movement, offering a 45-hour power reserve. All references measure in at 38.6mm and are crafted from stainless steel with a matching bracelet, making for a dressy option that I think fits the motifs of the dial perfectly. Like other KSK references, these watches recall classic King Seiko case lines that will certainly appeal to vintage watch aficionados. They also serve as a rem...

In-Depth: Researching The Vintage Movado Museum Watch Fratello
Movado Sep 22, 2024

In-Depth: Researching The Vintage Movado Museum Watch

Sometimes, an item can become so ubiquitous that we fail to question its history. Such is the story of the Movado Museum Watch. Sure, there’s a commonly told story, but for an item that even horology neophytes recognize, the history is brief and lacking. What started as a typical fact-finding mission turned into an ongoing […] Visit In-Depth: Researching The Vintage Movado Museum Watch to read the full article.

30th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore: ROO F1s, High Octane Fairy Tales of Super Star Racing Drivers Quill & Pad
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore ROO Sep 21, 2024

30th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore: ROO F1s, High Octane Fairy Tales of Super Star Racing Drivers

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore limited editions dedicated to the world of Formula 1 are one of the most interesting chapters in the history of the Offshore collection, which turns 30 this year. The release of such Offshores did not last long, from 2004 to 2012. Many of us were there, but for many everything was somehow forgotten and it is worth refreshing memories.

Fratello’s Top 5 Classic Valjoux 72-Powered Watches - Featuring Rolex, Enicar, Breitling, And More Fratello
Breitling Sep 20, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Classic Valjoux 72-Powered Watches - Featuring Rolex, Enicar, Breitling, And More

Another Friday, another list! This week, we continue our exploration of legendary movements. For this list, we have selected five classics with the famous Valjoux 72. As you will see, this chronograph caliber powered some of the most legendary watches that horology fans love. That’s why creating a list of the five standout Valjoux 72-powered […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Classic Valjoux 72-Powered Watches - Featuring Rolex, Enicar, Breitling, And More to read the full article.

Explained: The Vertical Clutch of a Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Sep 20, 2024

Explained: The Vertical Clutch of a Chronograph

Having already explained the more traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling), we now look forward to the more modern vertical clutch. This is found in some of the most famous chronographs in contemporary watchmaking, including the Rolex Daytona with the cal. 4131 (pictured above), Patek Philippe Nautilus with the CH 28-520, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph with the cal. 4401. Arguably the most advanced type of chronograph coupling mechanism, the vertical clutch as it is known today was debuted in 1969 by Seiko in the 6139 chronograph. But the concept can be found in late 19th century pocket watches, and even the inexpensive Pierce Chronographe of the 1930s. Today it is practically the default choice for new chronograph constructions. Equipped with the vertical clutch, the Patek Philippe CH 28-520 in the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1A Like its horizontal counterpart, the vertical clutch serves as the mechanical link between the chronograph mechanism and the going train of a movement, allowing power to flow from the going train to the chronograph, which then allows the chronograph to run. While it fulfils the same function, a vertical clutch works differently from the horizontal equivalent, a distinction that comes with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. How it works A chronograph vertical clutch is similar to the clutch found in the manual transmission of some automobiles. The clutch of an automobile enables the intermittent connec...

Introducing – The MIH Gaïa Series III, and a Special Guilloché 50th Anniversary Edition Monochrome
Sep 19, 2024

Introducing – The MIH Gaïa Series III, and a Special Guilloché 50th Anniversary Edition

The MIH, or Musée International d’Horlogerie (International Watchmaking Museum), is a must-see for anyone interested in the history of horology. This institution gathers a museum, a restoration workshop, and a research centre, and houses a vast collection of about 10,000 conserved objects. The year 2024 marks the 50th anniversary of the MIH’s residence in its […]

The Doxa Sub 300T Gets a Destro Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Doxa Sub 300T Gets Sep 17, 2024

The Doxa Sub 300T Gets a Destro Limited Edition

It’s kind of hard to believe, but in the long history of Doxa divers, they’ve never made a dive watch with a lefty crown. That’s a bit surprising only because we tend to associate Doxa with the manufacture of professional grade dive instruments in a way that few other watch brands can match, and certainly there are left handed pro divers out there who could have made use of a destro Doxa diver over the decades (say that five times fast…).  Well, it’s a nice time to be a lefty Doxa fan, as the brand has just announced the Doxa Sub 300T Professional Aristera, their first dive watch ever with a crown positioned on the left hand side. It’s a limited edition of 300 pieces, and it’s fitting that the first destro Doxa is a version of what most would consider their core, enthusiast focused diver.  Like other Sub 300Ts, this one is 42.5mm in stainless steel with a short 44.5mm lug to lug measurement. Of course we get the iconic orange dial (hence the “Professional” designation) as well as an aluminum bezel insert. It runs on a Sellita SW200-1 caliber with 38 hours of power reserve, and we can assume it’s been rotated and modified to accommodate the left hand crown position (the date remains at the 3:00 position).  As a left handed person, I’ve always been kind of fascinated with destro watches, even if I don’t personally see much utility in them. Like most southpaws, I wear my watch on my right wrist. And with a normal watch, the crown is positioned facin...

First Look – The Very Red, Very Handsome Schwarz Etienne Geometry Cherry Monochrome
Schwarz Etienne Geometry Cherry Schwarz Etienne Sep 17, 2024

First Look – The Very Red, Very Handsome Schwarz Etienne Geometry Cherry

Schwarz Etienne, established in 1902, has a rich history as a movement and components supplier. Today, the brand stands out as one of the few manufacturers that produces its balance wheels and hairsprings. In recent years, Schwarz Etienne has also produced watches under its name, blending original designs with traditional craftsmanship. Noteworthy releases include the […]

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Christopher Ward s new C60 Lumiére Sep 15, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep 89: Sinn for the Win(n)!

On episode 89 of A Week in Watches, Zach Weiss checks out a trilogy of new releases. First up, from the UK is Christopher Ward’s new C60 Lumiére. Featuring big blocks of Globolight, it’s a lume fiend’s dream. Next is a new and long-awaited Sinn, the 156.1, a follow-up to an iconic Sinn with an exciting history. Last, but not least, are the Louis Erard x Stefan Kudoke Le Regulateurs. A collaboration with an indie star, these watches bring a refined aesthetic to Louis Erard’s regulator watches. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop, which has just added several awesome watches to its collection. From Hamilton, they’ve added the just released 33 and 38mm Khaki Field Quartz. Yes, 33mm just like the original Khaki fields. From Louis Erard is the new Metropolis Green, an art deco inspired collaboration with the Instagram famous @thehorophile. There’s also more from Casio, G-SHOCK, Laco, and others so head to windupwatchshop.com to check them out. The post A Week in Watches Ep 89: Sinn for the Win(n)! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Disco Volante Is In - Two Viral Novelties And Their Vintage Inspiration Fratello
Sep 14, 2024

The Disco Volante Is In - Two Viral Novelties And Their Vintage Inspiration

Disco Volante is a watch style. In Italian, it also means “flying disc” but neither Frisbee nor mid-argument dinner plates. It’s simply a term for a UFO and harks back to the mid-20th century. With such a rich history of Italian people collecting watches, many terms and nicknames have an Italian origin, but is this […] Visit The Disco Volante Is In - Two Viral Novelties And Their Vintage Inspiration to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Jack Mason Ellum Manual Wind Fratello
Sep 13, 2024

Hands-On With The Jack Mason Ellum Manual Wind

When we look at the history of watchmaking over the past 150 years, we notice that most watches people wore were elegant (by today’s standards, that is). It wasn’t until the beginning of modern warfare in the early 20th century that watches became visually and mechanically utilitarian, with straightforward designs, better movements, and, generally speaking, […] Visit Hands-On With The Jack Mason Ellum Manual Wind to read the full article.

The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Collection - Watches For Enthusiasts With Refined Taste Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Collection - Watches Sep 8, 2024

The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Collection - Watches For Enthusiasts With Refined Taste

One of my most memorable meetings during Watches and Wonders earlier this year was with Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Guido Terreni. This very charismatic watch CEO was impeccably dressed, talking about the history of fashion and how the new Toric collection was designed with today’s sartorialists in mind. Terreni is glad that menswear is getting attention […] Visit The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Collection - Watches For Enthusiasts With Refined Taste to read the full article.

Should you take ring watches seriously? Their history and place in watchmaking Time+Tide
Sep 6, 2024

Should you take ring watches seriously? Their history and place in watchmaking

For as long as watchmaking has been distinguished from clockmaking, the Venn diagram between watches and jewellery has been a circle. No amount of utility or ruggedness disguises the fact that they’re accessories, and they’re a form of self-expression. Some watches however, are much further down the jewellery end of the spectrum. You can put … ContinuedThe post Should you take ring watches seriously? Their history and place in watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On with the Relaunched Favre Leuba Collections at Geneva Watch Days Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin Sep 4, 2024

Hands-On with the Relaunched Favre Leuba Collections at Geneva Watch Days

One of my first and most eagerly anticipated Geneva Watch Days meetings was with Favre Leuba, a brand that I’ve admired for a very long time, even as its modern incarnation felt like a shell of the brand of its vintage heyday. Favre Leuba is a brand with a long history, dating back to the first half of the 18th century, and is perhaps best known for the Bivouac, a watch with an integrated altimeter complication. Ownership of the brand has changed many times over the years, and in recent years the marque was controlled by various holding companies that never did justice to the watches created in Favre Leuba’s best years. This year, however, marks a new start for the brand, under the leadership of watch industry veteran Patrik Hoffmann, who had a long stint at Ulysse Nardin, and later WatchBox. At Geneva Watch Days, they debuted a robust new collection of watches that pays homage to the brand’s history while also looking forward, giving Favre Leuba the best chance they’ve had in years for real success.  Patrik Hoffmann at Geneva Watch Days 2024 There are multiple ways to relaunch a brand. You can start small, even with a single watch, and work your way toward building a collection. Or you can go big with something akin to the kitchen sink approach, with varied collections and price points. The advantage, I suppose, of going big is that a brand will get immediate feedback on what works and what doesn’t, but it also seems risky. What if none of it works? Favre Leuba...

16 Of The Best Pilot And Aviation Style Watches For Under $1,000 Worn & Wound
Aug 25, 2024

16 Of The Best Pilot And Aviation Style Watches For Under $1,000

In our most recent shop video, Devin looks at 16 of the best pilot and aviation-style watches on the market for under $1,000. One of the more popular and distinct watch types out there, pilot and aviation watches have a rich history with a broad selection of options. What other watches would you have liked to see make the list? In our most recent shop video, Devin looks at 16 of the best pilot and aviation-style watches on the market for under $1,000. One of the more popular and distinct watch types out there, pilot and aviation watches have a rich history with a broad selection of options. What other watches would you have liked to see make the list? The post 16 Of The Best Pilot And Aviation Style Watches For Under $1,000 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

More Surprising Releases Of 2024 - Unexpected Wristwear From Rolex, Omega, Credor, And More Fratello
Omega Credor Aug 24, 2024

More Surprising Releases Of 2024 - Unexpected Wristwear From Rolex, Omega, Credor, And More

Let’s face it: 2024 didn’t come loaded with optimism from brands, so we weren’t expecting big changes. Watches and Wonders was filled with evolutionary timepieces and studied tweaks, and the most surprising releases of 2024 so far caught us napping. It might have taken less to surprise me this fairly quiet year, but I’ve still […] Visit More Surprising Releases Of 2024 - Unexpected Wristwear From Rolex, Omega, Credor, And More to read the full article.

The Petrolhead Corner – The Colliding Worlds Of Indian Motorcycles And Lebois & Co’s Watchmaking Monochrome
Aug 10, 2024

The Petrolhead Corner – The Colliding Worlds Of Indian Motorcycles And Lebois & Co’s Watchmaking

Today I’m bringing you a genuine slice of American motorcycle culture, plus a proper Swiss-made chronograph watch to go along with it. I’m talking about the sinister Indian Sport Chief and the mouth-watering Lebois & Co. Heritage Chronograph Indian Motorcycles Edition. At first, it might seem like an odd pairing, and there’s no prior history […]

The Manchester Watch Show Awaits! A Must-Attend Event for Northern UK Watch Enthusiasts Fratello
Aug 9, 2024

The Manchester Watch Show Awaits! A Must-Attend Event for Northern UK Watch Enthusiasts

The Manchester Watch Show, a highly anticipated event for watch enthusiasts and collectors, is set to take place on Saturday, November 9th, 2024, at the Hallé St. Peter’s. With its vibrant history and iconic architecture, Manchester provides the perfect backdrop for an event promising to showcase some of the best British watch brands. It’s the […] Visit The Manchester Watch Show Awaits! A Must-Attend Event for Northern UK Watch Enthusiasts to read the full article.

Two U.S. Exclusives from Grand Seiko Bring Back the Popular “Kirazuri” Dial Texture Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Bring Back Aug 1, 2024

Two U.S. Exclusives from Grand Seiko Bring Back the Popular “Kirazuri” Dial Texture

While Grand Seiko’s history stretches back to the 1960s, the brand’s story in America is quite a bit more contemporary. Grand Seiko, for years, was a true hidden gem in the watch world, an insider’s secret that you had to be fairly deep into the hobby to stumble across in the days before the watch collecting “boom” that we’re still living through. It wasn’t until the Grand Seiko Corporation of America was formed in 2018 that the brand really put down roots in the United States. Obviously, from that point forward, Grand Seiko’s footprint has grown considerably, and we’re way, way past the point where anyone could credibly claim they’re an under the radar enthusiast’s secret. But for those of us who can remember a time well before their flagship NYC boutique, and before these watches were easily accessible anywhere in the states, their periodic US exclusive releases carry special significance.  The latest US exclusive limited editions, references SBGA507 and SBGA509, come at a time when Grand Seiko is experiencing enormous growth and success in the United States. These watches have been designed as a tribute to the very first US exclusive Grand Seiko releases, a trio of limited editions inspired by kirazuri, a traditional method used in Japanese woodblock printing that incorporates mica powder for a sparkling effect. Those limited editions have proven to be quite popular and collectible, so the release of the pair seen here should please collectors who...