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Results for The Longitude Problem

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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

Assembled By Me: Inside Studio Underd0g's Watch Assembly Experience Hodinkee
Ming Townhouse From Jul 9, 2026

Assembled By Me: Inside Studio Underd0g's Watch Assembly Experience

In 2020, watches became a real escape for a lot of us. Instagram, Facebook groups, even Clubhouse (who remembers that?) were thriving, and for me, watches had become more than a 9-5 as I fell deeper into those communities. It's where I first came across a guy on Facebook talking about a watch he'd designed that was 'inspired by a watermelon'. Every time it appeared, the comments filled with feedback as he gauged whether people were actually interested. They were. And now, six years later, that man, Richard Benc of Studio Underd0g, has just opened the doors to his very own watch assembly workshop here in the UK called 'The D0ghouse'. Roughly 45 minutes by train from Central London, the building in Maidenhead is a fusion of creative interior design and legitimate horological assembly, and anyone can experience the process first-hand. For £700, Studio Underd0g will sit you at a watchmaker's bench and guide you through the assembly of your own watch. What they're offering isn't a tour or just a showroom (they have that on-site, too), but a set of tweezers, a loupe, and an opportunity to experience the Underd0g, hands-on. That alone makes The D0ghouse worth the journey, but having just completed the experience myself, what I didn't expect was how much it would adjust my understanding of what this six-year-old brand has actually become. The Unassuming Townhouse From the outside, The D0ghouse is simply a Victorian townhouse on Park Street, the same address that Benc's friends an...

Indies Only! Dreaming Up My Ideal Microbrand-Only Watch Collection Fratello
Ming Up My Ideal Microbrand-Only Jul 9, 2026

Indies Only! Dreaming Up My Ideal Microbrand-Only Watch Collection

I have a massive soft spot for small, independent brands. That doesn’t just apply to watches. I love it when people dare to stick their necks out and chase (probably naive) dreams in real life outside of the realm of big luxury groups. The results also tend to speak to me. These brands typically follow […] Visit Indies Only! Dreaming Up My Ideal Microbrand-Only Watch Collection to read the full article.

Campanola Debuts Starlight-Inspired Kōjō SJX Watches
Citizen s quirky star-struck brand Jul 9, 2026

Campanola Debuts Starlight-Inspired Kōjō

Citizen’s, quirky, star-struck brand is back with a pair of limited edition Eco-Drive complications — the Campanola Kōjō ref. BU0020-71N in stainless steel with blue dial, and the blacked-out ref. BU0024-02N, inspired by shooting stars. Campanola’s sculptural approach to dials is alive and well, proving Citizen’s ongoing technical leadership in the field of solar-powered watches. Initial thoughts Launched in the year 2000, Campanola is an astronomically inclined sub-brand of Citizen Watch Co., contending with Seiko’s Astron and Casio’s Oceanus collection in the premium multi-function solar quartz segment, but with a more refined aesthetic. In the last decade, the brand has branched out into mechanical watches which maintained the Campanola design language and external quality — the Kasanekyo 20th Anniversary limited edition features one of my favourite raden dials. However, some of the brand’s mechanical watches were arguably diminished by the use of generic Swiss automatic movements like the Sellita SW300-1, which was paired with a Jaquet big-date module in the aforementioned Kasanekyo 20th Anniversary limited edition. This limited edition duo is a return to form for the brand, with complicated Eco-Drive calibres that offer the full Campanola experience, as well as better value. Of course, that comes with the usual tradeoffs, namely a 14.8 mm case height. That is mitigated by the rather wide 43.5 mm case diameter, which makes the height proportionally r...

We’re So Back! A Pair Of Seiko 5 Sports × Wind Vintage × Rowing Blazers Divers Arrives Fratello
Seiko 5 Sports × Wind Jul 9, 2026

We’re So Back! A Pair Of Seiko 5 Sports × Wind Vintage × Rowing Blazers Divers Arrives

Today’s new watches are likely to please fans of fun, funky divers. That’s because Rowing Blazers is back with a brace of cool new Seiko 5 Sports Watches. Naturally, our friend Eric Wind of Wind Vintage has lent a hand in the design. Let’s have a look at these cool new numbers. It must be […] Visit We’re So Back! A Pair Of Seiko 5 Sports × Wind Vintage × Rowing Blazers Divers Arrives to read the full article.

Northern Exposure: Louis Vuitton’s Escale en Alaska SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s Escale en Alaska Jul 9, 2026

Northern Exposure: Louis Vuitton’s Escale en Alaska

Louis Vuitton (LV) has taken the covers off its latest unique Escale Autour du Monde pocket watch — the Escale en Alaska is the most complicated Escale pocket watch yet, including both a minute repeater and a tourbillon along with nine dial-side animations. Initial thoughts Possibly more than any other so-called ‘fashion brand’, LV excels in creativity and world-building, which has only become more stylish, whimsical and nuanced. The Escale en Alaska exemplifies this development, and demonstrates the breadth of artistic crafts practised by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). Translating as ‘Stopovers Around the World’, the Escale Autour du Monde collection embodies the expressive flair of a leading fashion house — something many traditional watch brands simply can’t match. Following LV’s previous Escale pocket watches celebrating the beauty of Mount Fuji and the Pont-Neuf in Paris, the brand’s latest creation has looked north for inspiration, this time celebrating the desolate beauty of Alaskan glaciers and their exotic inhabitants. Arctic artistry The term ‘fashion watch’ is often used pejoratively to describe a watch with no real watchmaking value that trades solely off the fashion name, but watches like Escale en Alaska transcend this categorisation. The Escale Autour du Monde is a double-sided pocket watch with animated jacquemarts on one side and an exposed movement with an inverted hand stack on the other. The latter is unchanged from that of previous e...

Frederique Constant Introduces New GMTs Inspired by Classic Teak Boats Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Introduces New GMTs Inspired Jul 8, 2026

Frederique Constant Introduces New GMTs Inspired by Classic Teak Boats

Good things are worth the wait, according to Frederique Constant. Every two years, the Geneva-based watchmaker releases a new collector’s piece in their sought-after Classics Runabout collection, which represents, according to the brand, the combination of Genevan craftsmanship and Italian nautical influence. The 2026 model has been, of course, highly-anticipated; the Classics Runabout Automatic GMT represents a new chapter in Frederique Constant’s celebrated line.  The new GMT model, presented in collaboration with the Riva Historical Society, brings a 42mm footprint and two colorways: deep blue and teak-brown. Both models and their aesthetics are inspired by boats restored by the Riva Historical Society, and come with a miniature replica of said boat. The polished stainless steel case features three-part construction, and a midrange thickness of 12.85mm, giving it a decently chunky presence on the wrist. Still, the larger size is deceptive, given the bezel-less design; the GMT instead features an outer 60-second track, and a center 24-hour disk, giving it a filled-out look that slims the watch down visually. Arabic numerals appear at 12, 3, and 9 o’clock, and hand-applied indexes fill in the remainder of the hour markers, with a date window nestled at 6 o’clock. What results is a balanced dial that feels both busy and calm, given the limited color pallet, with blue and brown dial options both rounded out by beige-gold numerals and text details. All hands and ind...

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute To Great Civilisations II SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute Jul 8, 2026

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute To Great Civilisations II

Being able to tap the collections of fabled museums like the Louvre, Vacheron Constantin recently revealed the second instalment of Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Civilisations. The collection once again comprises four watches inspired by the ancient world, spanning Assyria to the Roman Empire: Buste d’Akhénaton, Lamassu de Sargon II, Athéna de Velletrie, and Tiber de l’Iseum Campense. Each watch essentially contains a miniature replica of a statue from the Louvre that is surrounded by decoration in a variety of techniques ranging from enamelling to stone mosaic. Buste d’Akhénaton inspired by Ancient Egypt Initial thoughts VC rolls out a well-stocked Metiers d’Art collection every year, and the appeal is varied. The good ones, however, are great, usually combining multiple decorative techniques, artful aesthetic execution, and tremendous appeal. Boosting its Metiers d’Art programme, VC has inked agreements with world-class museums like the Louvre and the Met, which allow the brand to source inspiration from the vast troves of objects housed in these institutions. All of that is captured in the latest Tribute To Great Civilisations, which qualifies as amongst the best Metiers d’Art offerings from VC. Each of the watches in the quartet manages to evoke the civilisations and objects that served as inspiration. Tiber de l’Iseum Campense of the Roman Empire While striking from a distance, each watch still reveals an impressive degree of detail up close. Mos...

SJX Podcast: Evolution Not Revolution SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Jul 8, 2026

SJX Podcast: Evolution Not Revolution

Episode 44 of the SJX Podcast covers new releases from Grand Seiko, Greubel Forsey, Vacheron Constantin, and Breguet. The common thread that ties these releases together is that each is an incremental update to a previous model. Grand Seiko’s updates to the Evolution 9 collection are perhaps most notable simply due to the brand’s larger scale, and for what this refresh indicates about how the brand is listening to collector feedback. We also shares our condolences with the Stern family over the passing of Philippe Stern, and discuss his towering legacy. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Seiko, Rowing Blazers, and Eric Wind Reunite for their Fourth Limited Edition Collaboration Worn & Wound
Rolex Patek Jul 7, 2026

Seiko, Rowing Blazers, and Eric Wind Reunite for their Fourth Limited Edition Collaboration

Rowing Blazers and Seiko have partnered on their fourth limited edition collection, and they’ve once again teamed up with vintage watch dealer Eric Wind on the design. This partnership has produced a number of hits since the first collaboration appeared in 2021, and it all comes down to an obvious synergy between the participants. Rowing Blazers, Seiko, and Wind each occupy distinct areas of watch and style culture, but they overlap in such a way that these watches make a ton of sense in context.  The new limited edition consists of two watches, each limited to 2,500 pieces, and harkens a return to the Rally Diver format the partnership began with five years ago. Available in both 38mm and 42mm diameters, the new Rally Divers are based on a Seiko 5 design from the 1960s that Wind says was both his first vintage watch purchase and a reminder of his father’s chosen daily wear watches from Wind’s childhood. It underscores something anyone who has chatted with Eric Wind for even a moment likely understands pretty intuitively, which is that while he is known professionally for dealing in blue chip vintage watches from Rolex, Patek, and others, he’s no snob when it comes to the watches he personally enjoys. His love for Seiko and accessible vintage is genuine, and this collaborative relationship has never felt forced.  The Rally Diver is defined by its checkerboard “rally” bezel, an idiosyncratic choice for a dive watch that doesn’t have an obvious connection to ...

A Double Shot, Please: New And Refined Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Models Fratello
Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Models Jul 7, 2026

A Double Shot, Please: New And Refined Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Models

The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time is back in three new references, and the changes are subtle but significant. The new HCB001, HCB002, and HCB003 keep the familiar formula but bring a smaller 38.5mm case, new dial textures and colors, and a less prominent date display at 4:30. That may not sound like a complete overhaul, […] Visit A Double Shot, Please: New And Refined Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Models to read the full article.

Indie-Focused IAMWATCH Returns SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 2523 world time Jul 7, 2026

Indie-Focused IAMWATCH Returns

Singapore retailer The Hour Glass has announced the return of IAMWATCH, the retailer’s indie-focused watch fair, slated to take place November 12-15 at the Singapore Edition hotel, with public days November 13-15. The event comes two years after the successful inaugural edition, hinting at the possibility of a biennial format akin to that of Dubai Watch Week. Focused on independent watchmaking The inaugural 2024 event featured the biggest names in independent watchmaking, including foundational figures like Kari Voutilainen and Felix Baumgartner of Urwerk, as well as the leading lights of the younger generation including Rexhep Rexhepi, Raúl Pagès, and Florian Bédat and Gaël Petermann. The second edition is set to be even larger, with more makers in attendance. Attendees can expect to encounter industry executives as well — Aurel Bacs, Jean Arnault, Max Büsser, and Jean-Claude and Pierre Biver attended the first edition. It’s also sure to be one of the year’s best opportunities for watch spotting — this Patek Philippe ref. 2523 world time with a blue enamel dial and “Gobbi” signature was seen at the event in 2024. The relaxed dress code explicitly encourages double wristing, so the chances of spotting a unicorn in the wild are doubled. IAMWATCH will be held at the Singapore Edition hotel. Admission is free and open to the public daily November 13-15, however, advance registration is required and it can be done online at Iamwatch.com.  

First Look - Chopard Releases Three New Mille Miglia Classic Chronographs in Historic Racing Colours Monochrome
Chopard Releases Three New Mille Jul 6, 2026

First Look - Chopard Releases Three New Mille Miglia Classic Chronographs in Historic Racing Colours

Chopard has been the World Sponsor and Official Timekeeper of the Mille Miglia since 1988, and the collection bearing the race’s name has evolved continuously since then. This year, Chopard returns to the compact Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph design introduced in 2023 with three country-exclusive editions inspired by historic national racing colours.  The use of […]

Studio Underd0g’s Second-Generation 02Series Becomes An Even More Seriously Fun Collection Fratello
Studio Underd0g Jul 6, 2026

Studio Underd0g’s Second-Generation 02Series Becomes An Even More Seriously Fun Collection

Three years ago, Richard Benc and his Studio Underd0g brand released the 02Series collection. The design was based on the iconic Dirty Dozen field watches, with the addition of Studio Underd0g’s typical playful sauce, of course. That resulted in four versions, all of which shared the same layered dial construction. Except for the matte black […] Visit Studio Underd0g’s Second-Generation 02Series Becomes An Even More Seriously Fun Collection to read the full article.

Anoma’s A1 Goes Prehistoric SJX Watches
Anoma Jul 6, 2026

Anoma’s A1 Goes Prehistoric

Anoma is back with a new take on its 1950s-inspired asymmetrical A1, but unlike previous riffs, which varied the dials but left the cases untouched, the A1 Prehistoric features a hand-chiselled case inspired by Stone Age human tools. Initial thoughts The original Anoma A1 was inspired in part by the sculptures created by Constantin Brancusi, specifically his ability to convey movement and create tension. But Brancusi was not just a painter and a sculptor — he also collected primitive human artefacts. In Brancusi’s view, early hand-carved tools like arrowheads and hand axes represent some of humanity’s earliest — and therefore purest — forms of creativity and craftsmanship. The A1 Prehistoric takes inspiration from these ancient tools with its distinctive case finish. To create it, Anoma turned to French engraver Steven Brunel to bring the Prehistoric to life. With hundreds of blows from his chisel, Mr Brunel removes material by hand until the case resembles a primitive stone tool. With so many uneven facets, the play of light across the case should be quite remarkable. Furthermore, each case will look slightly different since the strikes are made freehand. In an industry that is built on precision, perfection and order, the Prehistoric deviates sharply from the norm with a finish that revels in our primal impulses to shape the world around us. One thing that hasn’t changed much is the value proposition that has defined the A1 since its debut. At £2,900, the Pr...