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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

Business News: Antoine Pin Takes Over at De Bethune SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Jul 1, 2026

Business News: Antoine Pin Takes Over at De Bethune

Most recently the chief executive of TAG Heuer, Antoine Pin has just started in the top job at De Bethune, the independent watchmaker owned by American watch retail giant The 1916 Company. De Bethune in its entirety sells as many watches in a year as a single TAG Heuer boutique does in a few months, so the scale is entirely different, as is the price segment and target audience. It’s almost a certainty that Mr Pin was tapped by De Bethune’s owners to take the brand to the next level in terms of size and reach, an ambition that now seems realistic given the success of F.P. Journe. Mr Pin will lead De Bethune alongside Denis Flageollet, the brand’s cofounder who has been its technical driving force since the beginning. He takes over from Pierre Jacques, a two-time chief executive of De Bethune who ran the brand from 2010 to 2015, and then again from 2017 to 2025 after a change in ownership. With an extensive track record in watchmaking going all the way back to Sainte-Croix in the 1990s, Mr Flageollet’s technical prowess is unquestionable; amongst his recent creations is the Sympathique clock in collaboration with Louis Vuitton. His watchmaking talent will be complemented by Mr Pin’s management and marketing know-how, skills honed over two decades at LVMH, where he climbed the ranks and held various management roles at Berluti, Bulgari, and Zenith. He was chief executive of TAG Heuer for almost 18 months before a surprise departure at the start of 2026.  

T Teddy Baldassarre Excl
Teddy Baldassarre Excl
Blancpain s most complicated watch Jun 30, 2026

How a $2 Million Dollar Watch Is Made

Filmed in Switzerland, explore the seven-figure masterpiece featuring a Grande Double Sonnerie composed by a rock legend. This is a rare opportunity to experience the extraordinary craftsmanship behind the mechanical marvel with more than 1,000 components and twenty one patents. After eight years of development and limited to just two units per year requiring hundreds of hours of intricate handwork by two specialist watchmakers, discover every detail that goes into making Blancpain's most complicated watch ever.More

Reading Time At HSNY: Playtime Hodinkee
Ming specimens Jun 30, 2026

Reading Time At HSNY: Playtime

This post is part of a series, Reading Time at HSNY, written by our librarians. Today's post was written by Miranda Marraccini. Little kids love to touch things. If you've ever been a parent or even just spent time with a toddler, you'll know that an unattended cup of coffee, a billowing plastic bag on the street, or a dirty toy in the sandbox is a temptation no small child can resist. But it's also an amazing quality, because kids are great at hands-on learning, including in the field of horology. In our library collection at the Horological Society of New York (HSNY), we've got plenty of books that show kids how to tell time. Books, however, can only go so far—and I'm saying that as a librarian. For interactive horological fun, our library boasts a selection of kits, games, puzzles, and toys to handle and assemble. Image 2 One of the most charming specimens of children's education we have is a 1940s–1950s era "junior clockmaker construction set" (image 1). On the lid of the box, a proud-looking papa in a full suit (presumably just returned from his job at a midtown advertising agency) watches over his two delighted children, who are working on their toy clock. The completed clock is shown on the left—a traditional chalet-style Black Forest or cuckoo clock, ornamented with festive boy and girl figures dancing over a 12-hour dial, two twee ducks, and a tulip motif. The blond boy on the box is staring straight at the viewer, holding the partially assembled gear train,...

Fratello On Air: What If We Started Collecting Watches Today? Fratello
Jun 30, 2026

Fratello On Air: What If We Started Collecting Watches Today?

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we ponder what would be different if we started collecting watches today. We’re not allowing ourselves to roll in with all of the wisdom and hard knocks we’ve encountered. It would be a fresh start. Of course, we start with some other topics, per our […] Visit Fratello On Air: What If We Started Collecting Watches Today? to read the full article.

Hands On: Hermès Cape Cod Titanium SJX Watches
Hermes Jun 30, 2026

Hands On: Hermès Cape Cod Titanium

For those headed down the cape this summer, Hermès has unveiled an upscaled Cape Cod in brushed titanium. In some ways, it represents something of an ‘Offshore’ moment for the Cape Cod — a bolder, sportier version of one of the brand’s most emblematic models. While Henri d’Origny’s original 1991 design has evolved over the years to become more of a unisex concept, the latest execution is more overtly masculine than any prior variant in both size and finish. Initial thoughts Watches like the Cape Cod illustrate the strides taken by a handful of so-called ‘fashion brands’ that have successfully crossed over into watchmaking in the past few decades — Hermès is a poster child of this movement. The brand’s original designs — especially its emphasis on details like typography — and high-end movements have enabled it to make significant inroads with serious collectors, to say nothing of its broader success with its primary clientele. Despite the light weight of the 41 mm titanium case, the upscaled Cape Cod has substantial wrist presence on account of its design, which emphasises the lug-to-lug distance — perhaps a bit too much. But thanks in part to its monochromatic case and dial — the vivid orange seconds hand is the only pop of colour — the personality of the Cape Cod transforms easily with a strap change. Despite the strength of the Hermès brand and the obvious quality of the Cape Cod, the watch is priced well at US$7,900. That’s significan...

Hands-On With A. Lange & Sohne’s 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Pink Gold WatchAdvice
A. Lange & Sohne s 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Jun 29, 2026

Hands-On With A. Lange & Sohne’s 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Pink Gold

A. Lange & Söhne’s 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar brings together high complications, vintage-inspired design and a stunning pink-gold dial in one deeply romantic expression of haute horlogerie! What We Love Traditional pocket watch inspired vintage case design Pink gold dial suits this model perfectly and captures it in the best light Two romantic high-complications of rattrapante and perpetual calendar are showcased beautifully What We Don’t No lume for low-light legibility The case thickness may be large for some This classic pocket-watch inspired design may not be practical for daily wear Overall Rating: 9.4 / 10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar is one of those timepieces that immediately reminds you why the Saxon manufacture is held in such high regard. It brings together so much of what makes German watchmaking special, but does so in a way that leaves you genuinely in awe. I recently did a video on this watch, sharing my thoughts on what makes it so special, and my opinion still has not changed: this is easily one of my top three favourite models from the brand. But enough of me drooling over it, let’s get into what makes this timepiece so remarkable. The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar was first introduced in 2013 as a milestone in Lange’s modern chronograph history. As the name suggests, the timepiece brings together a rat...

D1 Milano and Artist Peter Tarka Collaborate on an “Impossible” Watch Design Worn & Wound
Ming watch brands may have Jun 29, 2026

D1 Milano and Artist Peter Tarka Collaborate on an “Impossible” Watch Design

Thoughts and attitudes toward Kickstarter funded watch projects have shifted pretty dramatically over the years. It used to be incredibly common for microbrands to break on Kickstarter with community funded projects, and indeed some of our favorite brands trace their roots to a Kickstarter campaign. But as the saying goes, one bad apple spoils the bunch, and a very small percentage of opportunists, hype artists, or some combination thereof among the larger group of up and coming watch brands may have helped to contribute to an environment where skepticism about the motives of a brand prevailed over enthusiasm. There are still cool projects on Kickstarter, but it’s no longer the dedicated proving ground it once was, and it has increasingly become a platform for established brands to introduce products that might not fit into their normal catalog or release cycle.  And that’s how we find an unlikely Kickstarter campaign from the Italian brand D1 Milano. They’ve been around since 2013, so they’re hardly new to the watch enthusiast stage, yet find themselves on Kickstarter with a project that is a little outside their usual scope. The Impossible Watch is a collaboration with 3D artist Peter Tarka, and based on a retro-futuristic 3D composition by the artist that is being framed as “technically impossible in its original form.”  I’ll be honest here and say that I’m not sure how “impossible” this idea ever really could have been, as the watch itself is, whe...

Talking Watches: With Keith Mitchell Hodinkee
Laurent Ferrier Jun 29, 2026

Talking Watches: With Keith Mitchell

When Keith Mitchell tapped in for par on the 72nd hole of last week's U.S. Open, it secured a tie for fourth—the best finish of his career in a PGA Tour major. Ten days earlier, Mitchell wasn't even in the field; he'd had to play his way in through a last-minute qualifier. After an opening front nine of six-over, he clawed his way back and, by the third round, sat tied for eleventh. At the post-round press conference, he was wearing a pièce unique Laurent Ferrier. Months earlier, we got the backstory behind this watch—and his entire collection—and we're thrilled to bring you that today in our latest episode of Talking Watches. Mitchell is as well known for his style on the course as for his ball-striking, the product of a longtime collaboration with Atlanta-based clothier Sid Mashburn. But the discerning eye will notice that the style extends to the wrist. Mitchell has long been a watch guy—he made a brief appearance on Ben Clymer Presents—but in this episode, he gets the full Talking Watches treatment, sitting down with us to walk through his collection, including how it started, the time a family Rolex was stolen (and remains missing), and the story behind his Tweety Bird Baby G.  After more than a decade on tour, Mitchell remains one of the most likable guys in the game, and that comes through in his collection. There are some serious Rolex and Patek Philippe pieces, sure, but he's just as enthusiastic about his G-Shock. He draws a parallel between watches a...

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Balancier QM SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Balancier QM Partly Jun 29, 2026

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Balancier QM

Partly a new watch, partly a manifesto, the Greubel Forsey (GF) Balancier QM inaugurates the brand’s Qualité Musée (QM) designation, which codifies its approach to world-class construction and finishing. Building on the Balancier Contemporain platform, GF has succeeded in refining its ‘entry level’ time-only watch, which comes in a 39.6 mm white gold case and is limited to 33 pieces. Initial thoughts The Balancier QM feels immediately familiair. It should, since it borrows much of its architecture from the recently-discontinued Balancier Contemporain. But what it lacks in novelty, it makes up in execution. In fact, the brand could hardly have picked a better way to inaugurate its official quality standard, dubbed Qualité Musée (QM). Without complications or chronometric fanfare, the Balancier QM’s design puts finishing at the forefront. The self-proclaimed ‘museum quality’ standard would sound brash coming from most brands, but it feels reasonable coming from GF. This ambition is evident throughout the Balancier QM. Even if the branding were blinded, the quality of make will be obvious to future generations of restorers, who will be able to tell immediately that the Balancier QM was never a commodity item. Even if they miss the escape wheel, which is polished on both sides, the artfully rounded pallet stones should catch their attention. On a technical level, the Balancier QM is an evolution of the Contemporain and doesn’t break much new ground. It’s st...

Interview: Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Jérôme Lambert SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Jérôme Lambert From Jun 29, 2026

Interview: Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Jérôme Lambert

From now until July 18, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) is exhibiting the sixth edition of its Collectibles programme at the brand’s boutique in London. The occasion offered an opportunity to sit down with CEO Jérôme Lambert to understand what the brand hopes to achieve with its Collectibles exhibitions. Launched in 2023, the concept stems from the eponymous book that assembled a dream collection of vintage JLC watches. Since then, museum-grade pieces have been sourced from around the world, restored in the brand’s dedicated workshop — without altering their patina — and presented for sale through travelling exhibitions. Triple Calendar with Moonphase from 1946. The capsule collection assembled for the London edition features seven Reverso models alongside five other rare watches, including a 1946 Triple Calendar with moon phase. With one exception — a small 1931 Reverso — all 12 watches had found buyers within hours of opening. The interview was edited for length and clarity. Yannick Nardin (YN): What is the purpose of the Collectibles programme? Is it a commercial, strategic or heritage-driven initiative? Jérôme Lambert (JL): All of those dimensions played a role in its creation. First, there were our conversations with collectors. Many expressed a desire to acquire exhibition or museum pieces, while others approached us to authenticate watches they had purchased through dealers. Two-tone Reverso from 1941. At the same time, following the great JLC exhibitions of...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko’s Hi-Beat 9SA5 Vs. Spring Drive U.F.A. 9RB2 Fratello
Grand Seiko s Hi-Beat 9SA5 Vs Jun 28, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko’s Hi-Beat 9SA5 Vs. Spring Drive U.F.A. 9RB2

Good morning, everyone, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. I don’t know if it’s due to the heatwave we’re experiencing here in Europe, but this week, we’re doing things a little differently. On the other hand, it might simply be that Grand Seiko launched new Evolution 9 models that left us rather impressed. However, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko’s Hi-Beat 9SA5 Vs. Spring Drive U.F.A. 9RB2 to read the full article.

Breguet Quartet for Tourbillon 225th Anniversary SJX Watches
Breguet Quartet Jun 26, 2026

Breguet Quartet for Tourbillon 225th Anniversary

Enjoying a new lease of life under chief executive Gregory Kissling, Breguet is continuing with the revamp and revival of its product range, this time marking the 225th anniversary of Abraham-Louis Breguet invention of the tourbillon. Breguet is rolling out a quartet of models for the occasion, starting with the compact and enthusiast-oriented Classique Tourbillon ref. 7357 that’s an old school 35 mm in diameter. That’s followed by variants of existing models. The Classique Tourbillon Sidéral ref. 7255PT takes things up a notch with a “mysterious” flying tourbillon and aventurine enamel dial, while the Tradition Tourbillon ref. 7047PT is a new look for the long-tenured model featuring a chain-and-fusee transmission. Lastly the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante ref. 5887PT gains a translucent, luminous grand feu enamel dial. The enamel dial of the Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante ref. 5887PT features a Super-Luminova star chart Initial thoughts Breguet has steadily refreshed its current line up since Mr Kissling took over, while releasing a handful of all new models, like the innovative Experimentale 1. The new tourbillons mostly fall into the former category; all are based on existing models to varying degrees. Ironically, of the four new models, it’s the entry-level piece that’s arguably the most novel. The Classique Tourbillon 7357 is clearly based on the ref. 3350 of 1989, but it has a new case and dial (but retaining the small case size). The mov...

Fratello’s Top 5 Recent Jaeger-LeCoultre Releases Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Releases Another Friday another Jun 26, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Recent Jaeger-LeCoultre Releases

Another Friday, another list! This week, we will take a look at the five best releases from one of the most talked-about brands in the past few years. Jaeger-LeCoultre made quite a few waves with its releases in 2025 and did so again at Watches and Wonders 2026. But the many great timepieces were not […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Recent Jaeger-LeCoultre Releases to read the full article.

Cartier Watchmaking Prize Winners Announced SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Jun 26, 2026

Cartier Watchmaking Prize Winners Announced

The 28th edition of the Cartier Prize for Watchmaking Talents of Tomorrow has announced the winners of the annual competition, which seeks to recognise and nurture promising young watchmakers and technicians. In total, six prizes were awarded to students from France and Belgium. Aymeric Peters won first prize in the Apprentice Watchmakers category for “Silence Choisi” Understanding the Cartier Prize The watchmaking industry faces a well-known shortage of young talent, and awards like the Cartier Prize, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition, and the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives enhance the appeal and visibility of the profession in a meaningful way. The theme of the 28th edition of the Cartier Prize was “Shifting the Balance: Reading and Perceiving Time Differently”. This theme explains why almost all entries featured heavily abstracted time displays. Layla Sluysmans tied for second prize in the Apprentice Watchmakers category with her creation “Nymphéa” The format of the Cartier Prize differs from that of other similar awards. Finalists were chosen based on sketches and presentations, and were given just 80 hours (over three months) to complete their creations with the help of dedicated mentors. To ensure a level playing field, each candidate is provided with a Cartier cal. 012 alarm clock movement and a CHF500 budget cap. Eléonor Picciotto presided over the ceremony, and the prizes were awarded by a jury comprised of Roy Davidoff, P...

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee” SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 Jun 26, 2026

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee”

Tudor surprised with an off-season launch in the form of the Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee”. Coming just two months after Watches & Wonders 2026, the Bumblebee is one of the brand’s outstanding debuts for the year (so far), alongside the atypical Monarch. The Bumblebee is essentially a scaled-down version of the original Black Bay Chrono, which was excellent but half a size too large. Now it’s almost just right, but unquestionably good enough, especially since the downsized chronograph still retains the same high-spec movement and affordable price tag. Initial thoughts I’m a fan of the Black Bay Chrono; I own two earlier iterations of the model. Tudor got everything right with those, except for the size, which was a little too big for the design. The Black Bay Chrono 39 scales it down noticeably, enough that the watch is just right. The case is still a little thick (inevitably due to the movement), but the overall package has been refined to a point where it’s difficult to improve it much more, especially with the constraints of price and the MT5813 movement. The MT5813 is probably the top movement in this price range in terms of features and construction, but it is relatively thick. Still, the thickness is forgivable given the quality of the movement and the price. I certainly hope Tudor rolls out new variants of this chronograph as yellow is not for me, but I rate this highly in terms of proportions, wearability, and of course value. At US$6,725, the Black B...