Hodinkee
Introducing: The Patek Philippe Ref. 6007A-001 Calatrava, Celebrating The New Manufacture In Geneva
Patek's first new watch of 2020 is a steel celebration of the new HQ.
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Hodinkee
WatchAdvice
Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 Review
The Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 is simply a watch that explains Oris’s true personality. The Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 goes back to the roots of what mechanical watches are all about. In today’s world, so many of us know what the things around us can do, but rarely actually know how they work. The same logic applies to mechanical watches too. We see brilliant timepieces made and know what they can do, yet rarely see or understand the inner workings behind them. This is the idea behind the Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115, to show as much as possible how the true inner workings of a mechanical watch operate. Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 There is almost a natural connection between a mechanical watch and its owner. If we don’t wind it, or even yet move, we won’t drive enough power to turn the mainspring which ultimately powers the movement. This is what Oris is trying to show with the Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115. Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 Oris’s Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 was inspired by nature, in particular, a Valley named Waldenburg, which surrounds the village of Hölstein. This particular village is significant to Oris, as it is there where the brand originally began. Oris was founded in 1904, and since then the brand has been based in Hölstein. It’s no wonder then that they would go back there to find sources of inspiration for arguably the “most Oris watch” they have ever made. Oris Big Crown ProPi...
Time+Tide
7 Seiko mods that show why it’s becoming a big thing - from Black Bay bezels, to Yacht-master do-overs, to painted dials
Watch modification, or “modding”, is a remarkably popular subset of the watch collecting community, where enthusiasts will tinker with their watches to build totally customised pieces to wear. Without a doubt the most popular brand in the modding space is Seiko, where the combination of affordability and relatively widespread access to quality parts makes for … ContinuedThe post 7 Seiko mods that show why it’s becoming a big thing – from Black Bay bezels, to Yacht-master do-overs, to painted dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Dive Watch Fundamentals - DOXA, a sleeping giant in the dive watch world that is slowly waking up…
DOXA is a Swiss watchmaker deeply submerged in the annals of dive watch history, which spans more than half a century.The post Dive Watch Fundamentals – DOXA, a sleeping giant in the dive watch world that is slowly waking up… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: Peren Hintz
In-depth, hands on review of the new Peren Hintz. An interesting and intriguing amalgamation of Swiss precision and Transylvanian mystery.
SJX Watches
Jaquet Droz Introduces the Petite Heure Minute “Tiger”
Jaquet Droz produces some of the most refined artistically-inclined timepieces, typically using a variety of artisanal decorative techniques to express its peculiar aesthetic sensibility inspired by the splendours of nature. Encapsulating the brand’s approach is the new Petite Heure Minute “Tiger” featuring black and ivory grand feu enamel dials that adeptly captures the majestic essence of the tiger with a lifelike miniature painting. Initial thoughts Tiger motifs are not new for Jaquet Droz timepieces; the big cat was found on several other versions of the Petite Heure Minute. But the latest version is easily the most enchanting. While the earlier tiger-motif watches were decorated in the style of a Chinese painting, the new watch depicts the tiger’s gaze up close. The dial immediately arrests with the lifelike details of the tiger’s eyes that fill the lower half of the dial. Every strand of the tiger’s fur can be discerned, with the highlight undoubtedly the eyes, which reflects the brooding, mysterious and ferocious personality of the feline. For this reason, I find the white gold version significantly more interesting than its red gold counterpart as the painting is more outstanding; the white brush strokes are enhanced and sharper thanks to the contrast against the glossy black enamel. The painting is also more appealing as the blue-eyed white tiger is more exotic. Although the painting on the red gold version represents the prototypical, orange-and-b...
Revolution
Bulgari Partners Oxford University to Fund Covid-19 Vaccine Research
Bulgari announces a new partnership with the University of Oxford to fund its Jenner Institute in their Covid-19 vaccine research.
Quill & Pad
Champagne Louis Roederer Cristal 2012: Biodynamic Viticulture At Its Very Best
The release of the thrilling 2012 Cristal heralds the culmination of Louis Roederer’s efforts in biodynamics. The vineyard has released champagnes in the recent past that have been biodynamic, or part thereof, but this is the first time the flagship, the legendary Cristal, is 100 percent biodynamic. And what a vintage for it!
Revolution
Introducing the All Bronze Oris Hölstein Edition 2020
Oris celebrates its origins and the town where it was born, Hölsteinwith with the all bronze (case and bracelet) the Oris Hölstein Edition 2020
SJX Watches
Swatch Introduces the Big Bold Jelly Neon
Only just introduced earlier in the year, the Big Bold Jelly is a modern, majorly-upsized take on the Jelly Fish (ref. GZ010) of 1983 that had visible innards, just like the eponymous marine species. Now the jellyfish gets a dose of colour with the Big Bold Jelly Neon. Essentially the same watch as the clear Big Bold Jelly, it is dressed up in bright, neon colours – orange, yellow, green or blue – for a more edgy and lively look. Initial thoughts Swatch watches are popular for their eccentric, recognisable designs – and were wildly popular 30 years ago in their heyday – and the Big Bold Jelly Neon is no different. The watch is indeed big and bold. The translucent plastic case is 47 mm – matched with a translucent strap – and reveals the gears of the quartz movement on the clear dial. And it has the crown at two o’clock, which is pretty unconventional. The particular combination of whimsical quirks rarely exists in other watches, which makes the Big Bold case immediately distinct from afar. The Big Bold Jelly Neon is also the boldest and most vibrant variant of the model to date, thanks to the punctuating accents of colour on the face, which even extend to the lugs and the buckle. They are welcome additions to the “jellyfish” aesthetic, making the watch even more striking than the previous Big Bold Jelly and encapsulate the essence of Swatch – fun, cheerful and eye catching. And the colours also make the watch a good choice for the trendy who are into...
SJX Watches
Corum Introduces the Lab 02
While Corum’s high-end watchmaking is typically associated with the tiny Golden Bridge movement, the brand’s latest creation is a surprisingly intriguing calibre with a novel construction. The Lab 02 is a tourbillon with vertical power reserve and double-disc date – entirely constructed as a “flying”, or “floating”, movement. Almost all of the wheels are secured only on one side, leaving them seemingly suspended in midair. Initial thoughts The Lab 02 has a genuinely interesting movement inside. A “flying” construction is not new, but it is usually applied to a key parts, like the barrel or tourbillon, for aesthetic effect or to keep the movement as slim as possible. Here the whole movement is flying, which results in a strikingly airy mechanical landscape. In fact, the Lab 02 is essentially a more complex execution of the concept behind the Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel. Because of its construction, the movement is large, which means the watch is huge – 45 mm wide and 13.4 mm high. But it is a necessity due to the mechanics and probably enhances the visual effect of the movement construction. Harder to swallow is the price of 180,00 Swiss francs that puts the Lab 02 in a price segment where many well-established haute horlogerie brands compete. That’s especially so given the movement finishing appears adequate (neat and clean but mostly done with mechanical means) rather than excellent. Admittedly, most other watches in the price segme...
Time+Tide
5 interesting watches you can bid on right now from the Revolution x The Rake Covid-19 Solidarity Auction, inc. one worn on screen by Ryan Reynolds
Revolution and The Rake magazines have rallied together to put on a charity auction to support those impacted by Covid-19. Called the ‘Revolution x The Rake Covid-19 Solidarity Auction’, this online event is now live and there are plenty of interesting and noteworthy watches to bid on. The auction will feature several one-off piece-unique timepieces, … ContinuedThe post 5 interesting watches you can bid on right now from the Revolution x The Rake Covid-19 Solidarity Auction, inc. one worn on screen by Ryan Reynolds appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Longines HydroConquest 41mm in Khaki Green is flat out the best value dive watch on the market right now
The Longines HydroConquest 41mm in Khaki Green possesses two of the most popular characteristics found on any timepiece today – it’s a dive watch, and it’s green. But there’s so much more to this watch than those en vogue features. In fact, when you consider its very reasonable retail price, it might be one of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines HydroConquest 41mm in Khaki Green is flat out the best value dive watch on the market right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide
The new IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide features a new complication by the brand. Taking inspiration from its exploration and navigation past, the Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide captures the time of the tides and its severity in relation to the Moon.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the Soko US Special Editions
Made exclusively for the American market, the Grand Seiko Soko US Special Editions, like many Grand Seiko watches, are a nod to a Japanese theme or motif. Made up of a pair of Spring Drive watches – the SBGA427 and SBGA429 – with bamboo-green accents, the special edition is named after Soko (霜降), one of the 24 periods of the traditional seasonal calendar. In the Japanese seasonal calendar, the year is divided into 24 periods known as Sekki (節季), each lasting about two weeks. Like any calendars in use before the modern age, the seasonal calendar was based on the solar year, and used by farmers for agriculture. Soko translates as “frost descending”, and marks the end of autumn. Specifically, the two watches take inspiration from Kyoto’s tranquil Arashiyama Bamboo Forest at autumn’s end, translating the scenery into elements of the dial. The Soko SBGA429 Initial thoughts I always love how Grand Seiko encapsulates Japanese concepts or culture in their watches – reflecting a strong national pride – which gives its timepieces an intrinsically distinct style compared to watches from other parts of the world. This is being done more often now that Grand Seiko is being sold widely outside of Japan, especially in the United States. With Grand Seiko gaining traction in America, the brand has produced several special editions available only in the country, such as the Kirazuri and the Japan Seasons special editions – effectively distilling the essence of J...
Quill & Pad
Hot Air Magic: How Wristwatches And Hot Air Balloons Soar Upward - Reprise
Strong stories and captivating histories constantly seduce watchmakers to create various special editions, and ballooning is one of those adventurous feats that has captured some horological imaginations. Here Jan Lidmaňský highlights a few watch brands that have floated through the sky, both literally and figuratively.
Time+Tide
Grand Seiko has just dropped two limited edition watches to celebrate their new Paris boutique, and the dials are incredible
Grand Seiko really knows how to say bonjour with style – not only is their new Paris boutique the largest of its kind in the world, it’s also easily their most palatial. Set amongst the cobblestones and opulent retailers that line the Place Vendôme, the new Grand Seiko flagship is rubbing shoulders with the likes … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko has just dropped two limited edition watches to celebrate their new Paris boutique, and the dials are incredible appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Red Magic
A surprisingly successful ceramic take on one of Hublot's flagship timepieces.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Longines Spirit 42mm Automatic Chronometer Chronograph
A sporty chronograph for Longines' new line of chronometer pilot's watches.
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A 'Neo-Vintage' Calatrava, A Stepped-Bezel Vetta, And A Chronograph With Military Provenance
Some unusual picks in this week's round-up of vintage watches from around the web.
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia
One of the grandest and oldest watchmakers in the world, Breguet was founded in 1775 and usually sticks to watches very much rooted in tradition. Even its high jewellery timepieces are elaborate and lavish, but still old school. The new Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia, however, is a strikingly lively, ocean-inspired jewellery watch. Named after the Posidonia oceanica, a seagrass found the Mediterranean sometimes known as Neptune grass, the new Marine has an iridescent mother-of-pearl dial invisibly set with 85 gemstones to form an elegant floating-seagrass motif surrounded by baguette-cut gemstones. It’s very different from the usual Breguet fare – in a good way – especially in the coloured gemstone versions. The Poseidonia is available four variations, each distinguished by the combination of gemstones. While the diamond version is set only with diamonds, the emerald, ruby, and sapphire models are each set with a variety of gems – amethysts and tsavorites on the sapphire version for instance – to create a rainbow-hued decor. The ruby And emerald Initial thoughts Breguet has a penchant for making high-jewellery timepieces inspired by nature. Thematically, the Poseidonia is no different, but it is far, far more spectacular in visual effect. Going by the photos, the watch will no doubt be dazzling and unapologetically luxe – and a world away from the restrained elegance of the Marine for men. Watches that have been liberally set with gems tend to b...
Deployant
New: Grand Seiko Soko Editions for US markets with Editorial Commentary
Grand Seiko made a special announcement today, and introduced the next member of the Seasons family in the Soko duo exclusively for the US markets.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Grand Seiko 'Soko' U.S. Special Editions
A start-of-summer new release that celebrates the first frosts of autumn.
Deployant
Review: Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Bentley Mulliner Limited Edition
Hands-on review of the Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Bentley Mulliner Chronograph, to celebrate Bentley's Continental GT Convertible Mulliner Edition
Time+Tide
BATTLE ROYALE: The T+T Team list their favourite ever IWC Big Pilot references
The IWC Big Pilot collection is a pillar of the brand for a reason. The design is iconic and has remained unchanged for the best part of a century, the wrist presence is almost unparalleled, and the double-barrelled power reserve means you can take it off for a week without needing to reset the time. … ContinuedThe post BATTLE ROYALE: The T+T Team list their favourite ever IWC Big Pilot references appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Ettinger Donates Overnight Bag and Watch Roll to Revolution x The Rake Covid-19 Solidarity Auction
The Rake Editor Tom Chamberlin chats with none other than Robert Ettinger, about Ettinger’s donation of their iconic Pursuits Hurlingham overnight bag, as well as a navy double watch roll, to the Revolution x The Rake Covid-19 Solidarity Auction.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Freak X Silicium Marquetry
Revolutionary for its construction and use of silicon, the Ulysse Nardin Freak is still a unique watch almost two decades after its introduction. And the full-featured Freak is still a relatively costly watch, until the Freak X came along last year. The most affordable version of a watch that helped kickstart the age of high-tech mechanical watchmaking, the Freak X retains the essence of its bigger brother while simplifying the rest of the movement. Several iterations of the Freak X have been rolled out since then, including one that ironically takes silicon out of the movement – the Freak X Silicium Marquetry. The watch has a dial decorated with inlaid tiles of iridescent silicon, using the material for its aesthetic potential, rather than the usual functional purposes in the escapement. The Freak X Silicium Marquetry Initial thoughts The Freak X Silicium Marquetry is an aesthetic variant of the standard model, so it’s identical in all respects except the dial finish. A combination of metallic and glassy, the silicon dial is different from any other dial material and suits the look of the watch well. That means the case is compact, so it wears quite well. And more importantly, the watch has a cutting-edge balance wheel amounted on the minute hand, making one revolution an hour. It’s a surprisingly advanced regulator in a watch at this price point, and probably the most advanced of all watches in the price segment. But the Freak X Silicium Marquetry is substantiall...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition, pre-loaded with 40,000 golf courses
It was only three months ago that the latest TAG Heuer Connected watch was launched, the third generation of the luxury Swiss smartwatch that first hit the market in 2015, the same year as the first generation of the Apple Watch. One (eventful) quarter later and we see the launch of the brand new TAG … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition, pre-loaded with 40,000 golf courses appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Omega De Ville Central Tourbillon Numbered Edition, The First Master Chronometer Omega Tourbillon
One of modern watchmaking's most iconic tourbillons is now one of its toughest as well.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Seiko SPB171 Presage Arita Porcelain Dial Limited Edition
A lesson in capturing the beauty of the abstract.