Hodinkee
In-Depth: Consider The Mainspring
One of the most essential, and most underappreciated, components in watchmaking.
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Hodinkee
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #157: Celebrity Watches: Cash or Passion?
Happy New Year! Mike and Kaz are opening things up this time with a fun topic that emerged back on episode 156. We all know there are a ton of celebrities out there sporting some serious timepieces. But what came first? Cash or passion?
Time+Tide
Weekend watch spotting with JR
Weekends in Melbourne can mean several things: overpriced brunches with mates after a boozy night out on the town, hikes up the Dandenong Ranges’ unendingly popular “1000 steps”, day trips to the Peninsula Hot Springs and, if you’re a watch enthusiast, donning that special timepiece in your collection that wouldn’t dare see the light of … ContinuedThe post Weekend watch spotting with JR appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Why the Universal Genève Polerouter was the game-changing dial from the 1950s
Some watches take the world by storm the moment they are released. Some, however, take a little while longer to be appreciated. The true significance of the Universal Genève Polerouter, first released in 1954, and its subsequent offshoots are still in the process of being properly recognised. Not only was it the first really significant … ContinuedThe post Why the Universal Genève Polerouter was the game-changing dial from the 1950s appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
De Bethune DW5 Armilia: Science Fantasy Turned Horological Reality
The De Bethune DW5 is supposed to be, as its name suggests, a fantasy object, a dream of sci-fi splendor. Out of all the Dream Watch editions, though, the DW5 is by far the most fantasy inspired and has a good claim on being simply perfect.
Quill & Pad
Word For Word: Qlocktwo Presents A New Approach To Telling The Time – Reprise
The very cool thing about Qlocktwo’s timepieces is that they spell out the time every five minutes using a typographic indication with letters: so instead of “7:30,” the time on a Qlocktwo “dial” quite literally reads “it is half past seven.” Sabine Zwettler finds this eminently intriguing! You probably will too.
Quill & Pad
Harry Winston Opus Series: A Complete Overview From Opus 1 Through Opus 14
Since the Swatch Group took over Harry Winston, a continuation of the Opus series has been somewhat in doubt. But in 2015 the Opus 14 finally arrived. And now it has been quietly said that an Opus 15 is on the way. Which makes this a great time to look back on the groundbreaking series.
Deployant
Tudor Black Bay Bronze Slate-Grey
The Tudor Black Bay Bronze line was a clever offering by the brand to the then - 2016 most fashionable case metal. With the new colored dial and the ceased production of the original brown, the Black Bay Bronze is clearly here to stay. While they used to be offered with 2 straps, the leather and NATO, Tudor now only offers the watch in either leather or fabric.
Time+Tide
A guide to microbrand watches with big-box quality under $6000
How to define microbrand watches is a conversation topic that has worn out many watch journalists’ tongues. With proposed criteria ranging from price to retail model and everything in between, there isn’t much consistency in how this new phenomenon is received or perceived. Perhaps one thing that can unite the explosion of newcomers that the … ContinuedThe post A guide to microbrand watches with big-box quality under $6000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Cyril Kongo - From Street to Silk and Beyond
In November of 2019, we were privileged to sit down with Parisian painter and graffiti artist, Cyril Kongo while he was in Singapore for a month long residency at The Mill.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle
Chiming movements – as in a minute repeater or grande sonnerie – have been fairly consistent in construction, being both rare and difficult to master, let alone be improved upon. But over the past two decades, Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed an impressive number of engineering improvements for its repeating movements, from “trebuchet” hammers that are hinged like the medieval catapult for enhanced striking power, to “crystal” gongs that are welded to the sapphire crystal to boost volume. This year, the brand has added to its list of striking innovations with revamped, ultra-long gongs in the Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle, which was designed to raise both the quality and quantity of the chimes. The Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle with a grained, silver dial An elaborate case Available with the dial in either a blue flinqué enamel or a simpler, silvered and grained finish, the Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle (MGTRMP) combines a minute repeater with one of the most user-friendly perpetual calendar mechanisms on the market, plus automatic winding. The self-winding capability is important and practical, because the movement has a short 38-hour power reserve. The two dial variants. Image – Jaeger-LeCoultre All of that is naturally voluminous, and packed into a large white gold case measuring 43mm wide and 13.72mm high. Though by no means a small watch, it is surprisingly thin for such a grand...
Time+Tide
Bid on this watch and help Australians fight our worst ever bushfire season
Today is a first in our home state of Victoria. It is the first day ever that a state of disaster has been declared by our Premier, Daniel Andrews, ahead of an “unprecedented” fire threat over the coming days. I mentioned this in my Editor’s Letter. Since then, it’s gotten worse. In our state alone … ContinuedThe post Bid on this watch and help Australians fight our worst ever bushfire season appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
What is an Exit Watch, and do I need a plan for one?
The idea of a grail watch – the would-be jewel in the crown of our collection for which we all strive – is well established. Not only does it make for some really interesting discussions over coffee, but it also helps shape your collection’s direction and deepens your understanding of the watch industry and what … ContinuedThe post What is an Exit Watch, and do I need a plan for one? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Musings on watch novelties presentations for 2020
We muse over the state of affairs with Baselworld and SIHH, and how this year's novelties presentations will play out for 2020.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Grand Seiko Elegance Spring Drive 20th Anniversary
At Baselworld last year, Seiko unveiled its take on the ultimate time-only watch, the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Spring Drive 20th Anniversary SBGZ001. The Grand Seiko SBGZ001 is powered by essentially the same movement as found in the Credor Eichi II, but dressed up with an engraved platinum case and dial, while also priced at quite a bit more than the Eichi II, with a retail of US$76,000. Also launched at the same time was the Grand Seiko SBGZ003, which is almost the same watch – having the same movement but minus the engraving on the case and dial, resulting in a US$57,000 price tag. With their cushion-shaped cases and dauphine hands – the hallmarks of the newish Elegance Collection – both the SBGZ001 and SBGZ003 are slightly more retro in style than the stark and contemporary Eichi II. But more importantly, they are powered by the 9R02, which is an upgraded version of the movement in the Eichi II and the most gorgeous movement ever found in a modern Grand Seiko. In short, both the SBGZ001 and SBGZ003 are watches with incredibly well finished movements – amongst the best in modern watchmaking anywhere – but with a couple of caveats, discussed below. The Grand Seiko SBGZ001 – watch courtesy of Mark Cho, founder of menswear store The Armoury The 9R02 Spring Drive movement Masterpieces from the studio All of Seiko’s top of the line watches – both Grand Seiko and Credor – come from the Micro Artist Studio, a workshop set up in 2000 to produce the fi...
Time+Tide
The Enabler: How To Justify Buying Another Watch (#7. You Can Pretend You’re Into Mindfulness)
I once knew a glamorous magazine editor who presided over one of the big fashion monthlies. On the inside of her delicate wrist, beneath an impeccably curated collection of designer bangles, resided a small tattoo. Inked in block-capital letters was the single word: “NOW”. This tattoo was a strategically placed reminder for her to stay … ContinuedThe post The Enabler: How To Justify Buying Another Watch (#7. You Can Pretend You’re Into Mindfulness) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Sparkling Wine From Tasmania: Not Yet Champagne Level, But Very Close
Champagne is undoubtedly the pinnacle when it comes to great sparkling wine, but for Ken Gargett an impressive second place goes to Tasmania. He shares a few of his favorites here.
Time+Tide
Mystery Vs. Transparency in luxury watchmaking – how much do you really want to know?
It is becoming increasingly common to see small, emerging microbrands threaten to “pull back the curtain” on the luxury watch industry, in an attempt to upend the established order and claim a slice of the suddenly democratised pie for themselves. But how effective, or even responsible a strategy is it? Is it time to stop … ContinuedThe post Mystery Vs. Transparency in luxury watchmaking – how much do you really want to know? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115: Going Full Monty
The mechanical diva on the stage of the Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 movement is the big kahuna itself: the extremely large mainspring visible at 12 o’clock, which provides more than 10 days of power reserve. And quite a bit more according to Anders Modig.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #156: 2020 Watch Collecting Goals
This week, the guys wrap up another year of TBWS shenanigans and chat through their 2020 watch collecting goals. Plus, they share some ideas about community building and organizing TBWS events in 2020.
Time+Tide
LIST: James Robinson’s favourite watch photos from 2019
It pains me so to admit this, but oftentimes a story is only as good as the photos that accompany it - especially when you’re writing about something as intricate and nuanced as watches. A good snap of a timepiece is not only the glorious icing on a particularly wordy cake, it actually assists us … ContinuedThe post LIST: James Robinson’s favourite watch photos from 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: The Chopard L.U.C Chrono One Flyback
We take a look at Chopard's new and revised L.U.C Chrono One Flyback, the new resident chronograph watch of the brand's esteemed L.U.C Collection.
Revolution
2019 Revolution Awards: Lifetime Achievement Award
Revolution editors and writers pick the most outstanding timepieces of 2019; but let’s not forget the people and companies behind these stellar creations.
Time+Tide
The clairvoyant watch collector – which brand will establish itself as a big player in the next decade?
In 2009, Rolex performed a miracle. Necromancy. A resurrection. Back from the dead was the oft-maligned sister brand of the Crown: Tudor watches. What followed in the seven years since was the most startling and effective rebrand the world of watches has ever seen. And thanks to an immense financial investment and influential vocal advocacy, … ContinuedThe post The clairvoyant watch collector – which brand will establish itself as a big player in the next decade? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
LIST: Time+Tide photographer Jason’s favourite watch photos from 2019
I asked Jason, Time+Tide’s resident photographer, if he could tell me his favourite watch photos from 2019 that he had captured, without quite realising the sheer scope of the work that he had done this year. I soon found out. “Hey Jason, how many photos have you taken this year?” “How many have I edited, … ContinuedThe post LIST: Time+Tide photographer Jason’s favourite watch photos from 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
19 Watches And Events That Defined 2019
This past year has been a big one, and Joshua Munchow thought it might be good to go back over it and see some of the launches that defined 2019. Here are the watches, an indicative trend, and the biggest highlights that demonstrated what 2019 was all about.
Deployant
Review: Tutima M2 Coastline 6150
The Tutima M2 Coastline is a great looking timepiece with a relatively slim profile despite its 43mm size. Cased in full titanium, the watch weighs significantly less than a steel counterpart of the same size. This means additional comfort and stronger corrosion resistance as well.
Time+Tide
5 things you never knew about the Rolex Daytona
As one of the most important model series in the world today, the Rolex Daytona is used to living life in the spotlight. What that means is that there are very few things to say about the Daytona that haven’t already been said, but here’s a rundown of five milestone changes to how the Rolex … ContinuedThe post 5 things you never knew about the Rolex Daytona appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Ikepod: Just Another Mystical Phoenix-Burns-In-Fire-Then-Reborn-Better-Than-Ever Story. Except That This One Is True – Reprise
Ikepod was born 24 years ago and has since died not once, but twice (well, three times, sort of). It is now back for an overdue third coming. Joshua Munchow thinks that the third time's a charm for this iconic brand from the 1990s, too.
SJX Watches
Swatch Introduces the Big Bold Jelly
One of the iconic Swatch watches from its 1980s heyday was the Jelly Fish (ref. GZ010), which was unveiled in 1983, the same year Swatch itself was launched. A quartz movement entirely exposed in a clear plastic case – accented with brightly coloured hands – the Jelly Fish was a bestseller that encapsulated what Swatch was all about: no-frills but fun watchmaking. The Jelly Fish remained in production, in one form or another – there was even a COSC-certified chronometer limited edition (GK124) in 1990 – for over two decades. Now the spirit of the Jelly Fish returns as the Big Bold Jelly, essentially the same idea but in a larger watch case. The Big Bold Jelly features a quartz movement inside a Big Bold case, just like the recent limited editions created in collaboration with fashion label A Bathing Ape (BAPE). The case is a large 47mm in diameter, with the crown unusually positioned at two o’clock. But just as with the original Jelly Fish, the case is clear plastic, while the band is translucent silicone. And the hands are rendered in bright colours – red, yellow and blue – with a bit more colour provided by the gilded wheels within the movement. Key facts and price Big Bold Jelly Ref. SO27E100 Diameter: 47mm Height: 11.75mm Material: Clear plastic Water resistance: 30m Movement: Quartz Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds Strap: Silicone with aluminium pin buckle Availability: At Swatch stores Price: US$110 For more information, visit Swatch.co...