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Results for Philippe Dufour

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Philippe Dufour

The Vallée de Joux independent whose Simplicity, Duality, and Grande Sonnerie set the modern finishing benchmark.

Are These New Orient Mako Divers Better Than Your Favorite Seiko? Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko ? After getting into Apr 29, 2025

Are These New Orient Mako Divers Better Than Your Favorite Seiko?

After getting into watches seriously, the Orient Mako was the diver that served as the gateway drug into this hobby. I know it was either that or a Seiko SKX for most of us but because of this, the Orient Mako will always have a special place in the collection. I still have it, it was my wedding watch, and that beautiful blue dial still gets me from time to time. Recently, the brand announced a set of anniversary models for their 75th anniversary and the dials just shot out in a way that was too appealing to not mention here on TBWS. Let's take a look at these new Orient Mako references RA-AA0823L and RA-AC0Q12L.

Hands-On With The Cartier Tank À Guichets: A Tank In A Casemate Fratello
Cartier Tank À Guichets Apr 16, 2025

Hands-On With The Cartier Tank À Guichets: A Tank In A Casemate

So, a tank is pretty tough, right? How do you make it even tougher? Park it in a casemate! Stick the cannon through one of the tiny embrasures, and you have a fearsome defensive installation. Well, that’s what Cartier did. The mighty Cartier Tank was parked in a bunker, and the result is called the […] Visit Hands-On With The Cartier Tank À Guichets: A Tank In A Casemate to read the full article.

eBay Finds: Precious Metal Classics from Omega and IWC, a Funky Waltham, and a Seiko 5 in Great Condition Worn & Wound
Omega Apr 11, 2025

eBay Finds: Precious Metal Classics from Omega and IWC, a Funky Waltham, and a Seiko 5 in Great Condition

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Waltham B-383 Rally Diver  Here’s a wild one to start off this week, a vintage Waltham diver with a bold rally dial. The large squarish chunky steel case looks unpolished with sharp edges. The diver’s bezel has a cool half yellow, half black acrylic insert that is in really nice shape. The dial is what really sets this diver apart though, with its intricate black, yellow and blue alternating “rally” style design. Broad steel hands and the ubiquitous 1970s day/date window complete the look. No movement picture, but the seller states it runs well. This one has all the vintage swag you could want in a diver! View auction here Vintage Seiko 5 Sportsmatic  Next up is this simple yet stylish vintage Seiko 5 Sportsmatic. These are really versatile, large and robust enough to be sporty, but you can dress it up with a nice leather strap and it would be right at home with a suit! This 1967 model is in excellent, unpolished shape, with a large 38mm case. The classic Seiko silver dial with steel markers and hands is also excellent. Of note, the hour and minute hands are the exact same hands used on the iconic Seiko 6105 divers, although the lume color is different. Nice clean auto...

First Look – The 270th-Anniversary Editions of the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Openface Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Openface Not all Apr 2, 2025

First Look – The 270th-Anniversary Editions of the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Openface

Not all of Vacheron Constantin’s 270th-anniversary pieces are steeped in classicism. The three Traditionnelle Openface models are refreshingly contemporary, offering a view of the modern architecture of their calibres. While the complications differ from model to model, the new trilogy shares openworked dials, a special guilloché pattern designed to mark the anniversary and luxurious platinum […]

First Look – The New 34mm Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding Monochrome
Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding Alpina Apr 2, 2025

First Look – The New 34mm Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding

Alpina celebrated the brand´s 140th anniversary in 2023 by launching a new Heritage collection. Until now, the collection comprised the round-shaped Automatic, the Carrée Automatic, the Diver 300 Heritage model, and a funky Startimer Pilot with bumper movement. This year for Watches and Wonders, Alpina added a manually wound model to the line-up, a compact, […]

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 250T GMT - A Multi-Timezone Watch Returns By Popular Demand Fratello
Doxa Sub 250T GMT - Mar 26, 2025

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 250T GMT - A Multi-Timezone Watch Returns By Popular Demand

If you consider yourself a passionate diver, chances are that you strive to dive in different underwater habitats. After all, variety is the spice of life, isn’t it? So you may find yourself traveling all over the globe, looking for diving hotspots. Unfortunately, the Doxa on your wrist does not aid in keeping track of […] Visit Introducing: The Doxa Sub 250T GMT - A Multi-Timezone Watch Returns By Popular Demand to read the full article.

Hands-on – The All-New Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer Collection Monochrome
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer Mar 12, 2025

Hands-on – The All-New Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Worldtimer Collection

Slightly overlooked and possibly in the shadows of the classic Seamaster Diver 300M, the Planet Ocean is the most capable collection of dive watches in Omega’s range, comprising models from 600m up to 6000m water-resistance (without counting the all-mighty Ultra-Deep that survived the Mariana Trench). Born in 2005, it will be celebrating its 20th anniversary […]

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Bulova Snorkel Collection Mar 9, 2025

Video Reaction: the Bulova Snorkel Collection

The other day, I got to sit down and take a look at the new Bulova Snorkel collection. They caught my attention for a simple reason: they are literally eye-catching. The brand’s first foray into the new world of “hybrid” ceramics, they bring an unexpected dose of color to a well-liked, if a bit cult, vintage model: the amusingly named “Devil Diver.” In the video below, I go hands-on with this new collection and give you my thoughts on this trend of not-quite-plastic watches and, of course, the Snorkels themselves. The post Video Reaction: the Bulova Snorkel Collection appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Seiko Marks 60 Years of Diving with Prospex Editions (and a Micro-Adjust Clasp) SJX Watches
Zodiac cycle Mar 6, 2025

Seiko Marks 60 Years of Diving with Prospex Editions (and a Micro-Adjust Clasp)

To celebrate 60 years of dive watches, Seiko is diving into the deep end with three additions to the Prospex range: the 60th Anniversary Marinemaster Professional (SLA081), 1968 Heritage Diver GMT (SPB509), and 1965 Heritage Diver (SPB511). Whether you’re a die-hard Seiko collector or simply a looking for an affordable, high quality diver, all three are distinct enough from their stablemates to be worth a look. But as exciting as the watches are, they’re arguably overshadowed by something simple yet significant, a feature Seiko enthusiasts have been requesting for a long time. The SPB509 and SPB511 are both equipped with a steel bracelet incorporating a micro-adjustment clasp that can be resized on the go by up to 15 mm, as opposed to the less practical diving extension found in preceding models. The 1968 Heritage Diver GMT SPB509 (left), and 1965 Heritage Diver SPB511 Initial thoughts In Western culture, significant anniversaries like the 25th, 50th, and 100th tend to be celebrated with great fanfare. In contrast, Japanese culture (and also widely East Asian culture) emphasises the 60th birthday – kanreki in Japanese – which also coincides with the completion of the traditional 12-year zodiac cycle. In this context, it’s worth looking closely at how Seiko is choosing to celebrate this milestone. The 1965 and 1968 Heritage models are powered by the well-known cal. 6R-series movements, which offer a 72-hour power reserve. While the pair are essentially variants o...

Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar Review Teddy Baldassarre
Doxa Mar 5, 2025

Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar Review

Tastes great, less filling. That’s the tagline for a famous light beer, but the same could be said for Doxa’s latest version of its iconic Sub, the 200T. It’s a slimmed-down take on the iconic Doxa Sub diver, and although it features a new case size, this might be the Doxa for people who thought they could never wear the brand, including yours truly. It’s also available in a huge array of colorways, so now there really is something for everyone when it comes to the Doxa Sub. The Doxa brand is certainly among the stars of the classic dive watch universe, and the Doxa we think of first is almost invariably the orange-dialed Sub 300 Professional from 1967, along with the black-dialed Sharkhunter version made famous by legendary oceanographer Jacques Cousteau, not to mention Robert Redford in Three Days Of The Condor. But today, we’re taking a look at the newest member of the Doxa Sub family, and there’s a lot to like here, not least of which is a lower price point. And although I haven’t been diving in quite some time, I can’t help feeling a little like an undersea explorer whenever I wear the 200T, which is quite often these days. The classic Doxa Sub 300 and 300T have always worn rather well for larger watches, due to that distinctive tonneau case shape and those short lugs, but now, there’s a new version for someone who wants a tool watch that’s a bit less…tool-like. Enter the Doxa Sub 200T, rendered in a just-right size at 39mm. Honestly, it feels li...

eBay Finds: An Unusual Vintage Omax, a Pair of Bulovas, and a Classic King Seiko Worn & Wound
Bulova s Feb 28, 2025

eBay Finds: An Unusual Vintage Omax, a Pair of Bulovas, and a Classic King Seiko

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Croton Chronomaster   The Croton Chronomaster is a classic vintage chronograph with an iconic name. Usually these are called Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver (like I said, iconic), but this iteration has been reduced for brevity’s sake to just the Chronomaster…still a great name. But it’s not just a cool name, this chunky 1970’s chronograph has the classic squarish steel case that looks unpolished but does have some wear from age/use. The aluminum dive bezel is in good shape with minimal wear. The black dial is clean and has a great layout with the dual subdials and date window at 6 o’clock giving it a nice symmetry. The Valjoux manual wind movement is clean and runs well per the seller. View auction here Vintage Bulova Ambassador  Next up is this sweet vintage Bulova. The seller calls it an Ambassador, but to be honest I don’t recall seeing this model attached to that name. Either way, it’s a beauty. The slim white gold filled case is clean, with bold fancy lugs. The black dial looks original and is really clean. It has stylized Art Deco style numerals and a nice subseconds dial at 6 o’clock. The Bulova caliber 7AK manual wind movement is clean and works well pe...

Hands-On: the Rado True Square Automatic Skeleton Worn & Wound
Rado True Square Automatic Skeleton Feb 21, 2025

Hands-On: the Rado True Square Automatic Skeleton

I have a feeling that if you asked most watch enthusiasts to tell you their thoughts about Rado, they’d start with the Captain Cook. The brand’s diver has been revived in recent years and become an enthusiast favorite, appearing in both traditional vintage inspired designs as well as more forward thinking and tech oriented variants. I’ve handled my share of Captain Cooks and while I think it’s a perfectly fine dive watch, there’s something a little generic about it and it’s never quite grabbed my interest. It seems positioned as a calling card product for Rado, but I find myself wondering if it’s really the watch that we should most closely identify with the brand.  Because the truth is, when it comes to Rado, they are far more adventurous than the Captain Cook would lead you to believe. And, for that matter, they’re more adventurous than we should have any right to expect given their fairly competitive price points and their place within a big luxury watch group, not typically the home of risk taking when it comes to watchmaking. Beginning with the DiaStar in the 1960s (which featured a case made from an ultra hard alloy that was among the first watches marketed as “unscratchable”) and on into the 1980s when the brand really began hitting their stride with ceramic, Rado has carved out a niche for itself as a brand willing to experiment with both raw materials and the form and function of a watch.  There are many examples of this throughout the brand...

The Newest Daniel Craig Omega Seamaster 300m In Bronze Gold Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Feb 19, 2025

The Newest Daniel Craig Omega Seamaster 300m In Bronze Gold

Omega has been on a tear with what I would call a series of the “worst-kept secrets in watches.” This was kicked off by the white Omega Speedmaster, furthered by the black aluminum Seamaster Diver 300m, and then punctuated by a watch “surprise” launched this morning: a new, full-bronze-gold Omega Seamaster Diver 300m. All of these watches have one thing in common: They were each teased (read, spoiled) by former James Bond actor and Omega ambassador Daniel Craig as he wore them out in the world ahead of launch. I, for one, am not too perturbed by this sequence of events. I tend to think that there is no such thing as a spoiled surprise. As a friend of mine once told me, you don’t really spoil a surprise; you merely surprise someone earlier. So let’s examine a new watch that feels like it’s been in our lives for months now – because it has. This one takes its design from from the No Time To Die Seamaster Diver 300m both in look and material. We have the mesh bracelet working against the well known SMP300 case design. Additionally, we have an aluminum bezel insert in a burgundy color which pairs with what appears to be a matte textured black dial, which Omega calls sandblasted. This is an effect I want to see in person. The NTTD dial was a more brownish hue and almost smooth, and the recent black-dial version brought the updated small wave pattern. So this is effectively a new dial texture for the format. Finishing off the dial is text done in a brown colorat...

Applying The Art Of Speculation To The Current Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection Please be Feb 10, 2025

Applying The Art Of Speculation To The Current Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection

Please be aware that the headline does not refer to The Art of Speculation, a 1931 book by Philip Carret (1896–1998), a man considered a Wall Street legend and a leading thinker in basic value investing. Rather, I’m speculating what Vacheron Constantin has in store for us this year. As you’re probably well aware, this […] Visit Applying The Art Of Speculation To The Current Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection to read the full article.